youngengineer

Those are the gas/foam filled ones? Do you have photos or a video of articulation?

Just thought I would add to this thread after around two years of heavy use. The Britpart shock's ended up being the problem. The ride quality continued to worsen to a point where I could no longer bare to drive the vehicle. I could feel every crack in the road, every pebble. Hitting a speedbump and more then 10mph would send you through the roof. When I removed the shocks completely the ride was transformed to coil like softness. The Britpart dampeners had almost seized and becoming very hard and notchy. (They were bad to begin with) I am now looking at Bilstein 5125 as recommended. Never touching Britpart again.

I've been told he put 4L in and that took it to half way up the dipstick..

I have a friend with a 2015 defender. It's a 110 and I believe it has either the 2.2 or 2.4tdci. I know very little about these engines other then that they are made by ford? Recently on a long trip the vehicle suddenly died on the motorway. From what I heard, it lost power and he coasted to a halt. He had it towed back, we tried to crank it over and it seems like it's cranking a little faster then usual but otherwise no start. No oil in coolant but worryingly there is nothing on the dipstick. Not a drop. No leaks around the engine or under the vehicle. He mentioned that his sister took the vehicle up to Scotland (1000miles) and checked the oil before leaving. Could it be possible that the vehicle burnt half a dipsticks worth of oil in 1000miles? Anything obvious I should check? Do these engines have some kind of low oil shutoff switch?.

That's a good idea. I rebuilt the engine around 2 years ago so it's very possible that the flywheel was not re-installed correctly. I did not know that the dowels could be removed. Either way, if it is misaligned at the flywheel, I should probably be timing the engine with the mark on the front pulley. It would also mean that I have had it incorrectly timed for the past 2 years as I used the flywheel timing pin. I've got it sounding pretty and running well at the moment so maybe I will just leave it.

Took the front pulley off and the keyway and Woodruff key look perfect so I'm at a loss on why the timing marks don't match.

Thanks for the replies. I adjusted the pump ever so slightly and it's now sounding normal again so must be been off by a hair. As for the for the front crank pulley I'm going to remove it and have a look at the keyway.

The Injector pump was fully stripped and rebuilt so yes the big nut was off. But it was retimed according to the service manual. I still don't see how that would have an effect on the crankshaft pulley TDC position relative to the flywheel TDC mark.

I've just rebuilt the injection pump on my 200tdi. I used a dial indicator to time up the pump to 1.54mm of lift at TDC (locked the pump, reinstalled the pulley flange so that it lined up with the timing pin hole in casing) then fitted it back onto the vehicle, locked the flywheel with locking pin, removed the pulley support tool and tightened up the pulley locking plate. Although it started first time (after bleeding lines and pump) The first start and run the engine is noticeably more knocky and noisy. The timing sounds far too advanced. I have installed the flywheel locking pin again to check the timing and have noticed that the TDC markings on the front pulley do not line up with the webbing/gusset on the timing cover and are off a few degrees even though the flywheel locking pin is in? I have indeed confirmed that the flywheel locking pin is engaged as it is sprung loaded and clicks into place when the engine is turned over. Removing the pin once engaged shows the timing slot in the flywheel. I know that there are two timing slots on the flywheel, however I believe they are quite far apart? The pulley markings show only a few degrees deviation. Does anyone know how this could be possible? Has the pulley spun the keyway or is something else going on? Any advice welcome.

I thought turning it clockwise would retard the timing?

What was the result then?

I know this is a well covered subject in terms of retrofitting type 50 and 80 servo/pedal boxes Into a series 3 land rover. However, I have not found much I formation about fitting of the newer style twin diaphragm servos and pedal box. I understand that there would be clearance issues most likely requiring the wing to be cutout and new brake lines made up however does anyone know of any reason why this would not work? Does anyone know of the pedal box bolt pattern is the same between the series and puma bulkhead?

Remember to adjust bump stops. Mine were bottoming out on speed bumps.

What are the results then?

Let us know, my back cannot take anymore.