sgo70

Everything haha. I'm no expert, this is probably one of my weak points that I'm trying to work through on my build and I'm dealing with a complete Frankenstein. I added an Eaton Bussman fuse box, it's waterproof, 10 relays and 42 fused slots, sits at the rear on the bulkhead. I also put another mini one in the cab for power windows and heated seats. It holds 5 relays and I think 10 fuses but they have all different sizes and connect with Metripack 280 terminals. For higher loads I used the mini ANL fuse holders from Knuconcepts, good for up to 300 amps. I'll be chopping just about every plug and converting them to Metripack plugs. I think my only unfused connections are the starter and the winch, but the winch has a cut-off. Sean

Not sure what year these diagrams are for but I've been referencing them while I'm doing my harness. Mines a 2001 110 with a GM engine, Mini Cooper seats, aftermarket power windows and door locks and a keyless ignition so I gave up trying to color match the wires and have just drawn up my own schematic lol. https://duud.ee/LR-manualid/300Tdi_Wiring_Diagrams.pdf Sean

Thanks so much guys, I've sent a message to Paul and will see what he says. That second ebay link looks like exactly what I need for the motor, thank you Pete. My washer pump is an oval shape so I'll have to keep looking but I guess if I get desperate I could just use a couple spade terminals and seal them in with epoxy. I really appreciate the help. Sean

Hi, I'm wiring up my 2001 110 completely from scratch but I'm having a huge problem finding a few harness plugs, specifically the windshield washer motor and the two washer pump plugs all one the harness side, male plugs. Anyone know where I can get these plugs and terminals, I did find a pigtail but I'm trying not to use any butt connectors anywhere and shipping was $60 for the $20 part. I found it on LRWorkshop but can't find any more about it. C0030: https://www.lrworkshop.com/wiring-looms/defender-2002/bulkhead-loom-300tdi-rhd/300tdi-rhd-dashboard-left Thanks in advance, Sean

I got my headliner all stripped down and I saw how most just scrape the foam and recover over the bottom layer of fabric but mine was pretty rough and falling apart. Wondering if anyone has tried coating theirs in fiberglass resin/mat or any other ideas. I don't want to spend $1000 getting one here to Canada. I only tried the drill for a second......bad idea lol. Thanks, Sean

I wrapped part of mine in leather and part will be painted to match the body. Just a heads up, make sure to go over it with body filler or something to make it really smooth as everything will show through. If you can design it keeping in mind how you will wrap it it isn't all that hard. My main speedo panel was a tough one. Still got to do the tops and a few other pieces but needed a break from that for a while. Also use high temp contact cement so you don't have to do it again, I use Helmiprene 4510 neoprene cement but I don't know what is available there. Sean

I've been watching this so I could try to copy your wiper system but I bought the wrong set up (dummy), newer disco linkage so I gave up for now. Ended up just buying a switch with intermittent settings. Looks like a head scratcher but coming along great. I did a full custom dash and it was probably the hardest project I've done on my 110. Probably had it in and out and changing stuff about a hundred times, built it around a Restomod A/C unit, never want to do that again. All the pictures are great, might have to re-visit this on mine one day. Sean

I came across this post on a Toyota forum somehow. I ended up ordering one of those waterproof fuse boxes and a pile of the same connectors. I think this should be more than enough circuits and relays and I can mount it under the hood without any worries. Haven't started wiring yet, still trying to paint and reassemble but I have been planning things out. https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/threads/spod-ha.157834/ I've wired a couple of cars and motorbikes and find that doing one circuit at a time and temporarily holding things in place with zip ties works well. Easy to add wires as you go along but uses thousands of ties lol. Once it's complete I want to avoid split loom and use proper tape to wrap it all together, this is a pretty good article.....class D tape is my plan. Maybe use some tech flex braided sleeve in some places but I kind of doubt it. https://www.assemblymag.com/articles/94713-tape-for-wire-harnesses Sean

I'm no expert but I'm getting ready to paint mine as well. The biggest thing I understood is etch is meant to go on bare metal while epoxy will stick to just about anything. I bought a direct to metal primer sealer/surfacer tinted black for a dark topcoat designed for both aluminum and steel. I was a little worried how the etch might react to all the different surfaces (steel, aluminum, body filler, etc). The other thing I read was important was to try to use the same brand from start to finish. The only things I know for sure is make sure it's clean and this debate can go on for years lol. Good luck, Sean

I couldn't get mine to budge with a puller so I had to cut it and hit it with a chisel in the cut, fell right off. Not sure if you're trying to save yours or not. Sean

This is the first time I've seen a hard top pop up, super cool. Great job. Sean

The one I linked is the same as Reds but a 12V option and here is a simple wiring diagram it links to: https://www.amequipment.com/shop/delay-switch-for-two-speed-wiper-motors https://static1.squarespace.com/static/59f38835f9a61e71d5d02ce2/t/5a9072ca652dea92f96fe033/1519416011013/311-1006-wiring-diagram.pdf Sean

I've swapped to an Ididit steering column and I wanted to add a multifunction switch to it but I realized it wasn't going to work for me without being some big abomination sticking out. I just ordered this switch today to move it to the dash mount. Not cheap but I'm kinda stuck, just an idea for you. Gives you intermittent wipers as well: https://www.amequipment.com/shop/delay-switch-for-two-speed-wiper-motors Sean

I'm the same, I try to Tig everything now. I've never actually used a weave pattern like that but I was messing around a while back waiting for things to cool. I like trying to run along the edge without blowing out. I ran this pretty much non-stop, I couldn't rest my gloves down it was so hot. Sean

Probably the biggest improvement to my welding came when I added a +1.5 cheater lens to my mask. Amazing what you can do when you can actually see it!!! Sean

Have you watched any of these videos on line: http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcxlBLmujrjTVSSUkzZ2Jlg I've had a cheap Tig welder for years and never really got the hang of it. I ended up buying an Everlast 255EXT and really focusing on it, watching all these videos over and over and hours of practice. Couldn't take a course because of my random work schedule but these two guys are great teachers. For the price I don't think you can beat Everlast for performance and functions, I can't afford a comparable Miller. I pretty much use 2% Lanthanated 3/32" tungsten on everything, rarely thoriated on aluminum but that's it, keeps it simple. I like the chart you've come up with, good baseline. Sean

If you remove one of the little bumpers you can weld or bolt a hinge to the rear cross member clear of the tailgate so it swings away like a Jeep swing away tire carrier. You can get the heavy duty hinge and latch capable of a 37" tire or a smaller tire plus something else. A to Z Fabrications makes a nice hinge as well. Just google the Jeep swing away tire carriers for ideas. https://atozfabrication.com/tire-carrier-swingout-builder-s-kit.html?category_id=18 https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2126.html I think this is only my second post but I've built a few of these. Sean

Yep, my thoughts exactly. Sean

I'll watch my words lol. The more I dig the more I find, the top six nuts holding the transmission to the engine were MIA along with the four big bolts holding the firewall to the frame. I think the last guy thought seam sealer was a thick paint and a 5/16" nut will fit a 14mm bolt to hold the prop shafts on. I won't even start on his electrical but I didn't know that painters tape was good to use over a stripped and twisted connection. Wiring is gone, I've welded the assortment of random holes shut and patch panels in. Since I'm removing the clutch and accelerator pedal I've welded in some solid panels there as well. A little more cleaning underneath and I'll be ready to paint the engine bay and frame, just need to weld in mounts for the engine as soon as they get here. I've almost reached square one!!! Can't wait to start bolting things back together. I think I need a garage sale, I've seemed to make a lot of extra parts out of this thing lol. Before and after shots: Sean

Yeah it's a whole lot different than I had planned. It's in pretty good shape as far as corrosion goes, I was just going to clean it up and drive it until I took a closer look and deemed it completely unsafe. Sean

Hi there, New to the forum but been lurking for a while. I bought a 2001 110 300tdi from Georgia Russia and I've been tearing into it quite a bit. I've got a build thread on another forum that I'm sure some have seen but I'm looking for more information on what I'm doing. So far I've gone through the wiring which was a mess and a fire hazard so that pretty much gone, no wires left, gonna start from scratch. When it came down to doing a new wiring harness that was the tipping point for me and I decided to do an engine harness for a V8 instead, so along comes my 2017 L83 ls motor with a 6L80. Got a good deal on it with only 6600 kms. I got my 300 tdi out (155000kms on it) and I'm going to be selling it and a bunch of other stuff once I get it cleaned up and go over it but for now I have a clean slate, no engine/transmission and no electrical. I'm going to move my wiring harness to the drivers side and weld up all the holes in the bulkhead as well I ordered a Restomod heat/AC unit to go in cab with a custom dash. This frees up a bunch of space where I might be able to move a dual battery tray to the engine compartment where the heater box was. That will have to wait until the engine is in. My interior will be completely redone and eventually the body work on the exterior. All in all it's in rough shape but I've seen worse I guess. I have a complete 2" lift kit from Gwyn Lewis that's going in along with the steering upgrades. I'll be back at it this weekend I hope, lot's to do. My first problem I've found is the new Gen V L83 exhaust manifold are going to be a problem, even Nick isn't sure what to use there. I really don't want to have to fab them up but we'll see what I can find. Thanks, Sean