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Everything posted by Nonimouse

  1. The 300Tdi dash will fit in both RRC and D1 - it's not simple, especially if you want a proper job. One would wonder why? As the 200 Conran dash is simpler in all aspects except heater maintenance
  2. The Buick 3.4 litre 'Odd Fire' is the favourite, but fitting seems to be a huge undertaking. The gearbox will be a T84, T90 or T96, if it's original. The Buick lump doesn't produce huge power or torque so works well. The best information I've had on this conversion is form a guy called Brennan Metcalf; he's on Pirate and OF. Clever bloke The original lump is a 'Go Devil' , whereas the later CJ3B has a 'Hurricane'; the later was made under licence literally everywhere
  3. The genuine under bonnet stuff is fire retardant and held in place by rivets and hoofing gert washers Seeing as how you have a 200tdi - get a 300tdi engine sound proofer thing and cut it to fit - big difference, then use 'Dead Mat' tiles (10"x 10") for the bulkhead, then cover with a Wright Off Road doofer
  4. From experience, I would have a chat with your local DVSA station - and by chat, I mean go in. Take the details with you. These are the guys on the cutting edge https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/192721/VOSA_SVA_Test_Stations.pdf The Five0 are only interested in easy to prove stuff - like those issues highlighted by the ANPR camera or other such easy to use devices. They are too busy for messing about and simply not trained in the stuff the DVSA inspectors are paid to do
  5. I'd break it, properly The days of wrecking a D1 around a P&P site are numbered. D1 200 tdis are going up in value, certain 300 tdis are also going up in value (3 doors, Aviemore etc). If you run a 200 you'll know that certain parts are getting hard to find - even second hand; so 300 stuff is being put to use. A cheap replacement to engine or drive train on the 200 is to use stuff form the 300, although not as good an engine, it's got a larger variety pf readily available parts...
  6. Dodgy bloke that Nick 🤣
  7. Fold the rear seats down in the L322 and you can live in it - sorted
  8. I'm with NFU - on a multi car policy. The Disco is the only modified vehicle out of the three on the policy. It has Cat 3 business use, As does the Mighty Modus. I offer up a list of mods, signed off by a chartered mechanical engineer... They aren't the cheapest, but I like NFU. Nice folk to talk to. Got free RAC recovery this time round - which was very good, when I needed it
  9. I'll try and get some pictures - next time I see him
  10. A friend has a 2.25 with a stage 2 ACR head and a supercharger, it goes well and is relatively economic
  11. I have a kenlowe hotstart. It's the 88degree unit. It's plumbed into the heater return hose as per the instructions The mains lead goes into a pull release socket on the front of the Discovery and it's plugged into a timer and thermostatic switch. If the temperature drops below 5 degrees it switches it on, then the timer comes on at 0650... If I forget to unplug it - it releases itself. To be fair, my disco is warm in a couple of miles or ten minutes fast tick-over on the drive, but this makes ti much easier to de-mist quickly and also warms the engine block
  12. https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/ Based in Andorra, tyres come form Germany - I saved over a third on the next best price
  13. The last ones should have it fitted
  14. Interesting thread I'm working on replacing my D1 jest with headlight washers - for a bigger volume of liquid and a bigger bore (because I think the jest freeze up first), added to which I have a couple of pairs spare in the workshop... However I have noticed on my daily commute, in the Mighty Modus, that the fine spray washer jest don't seem to freeze up - they produce a much finer spray pattern than a 'normal' washer. I use the vastly overpriced and less than efficient pre-mix fluid. Mainly because it's supplied for free at work I tried all sorts of the heating type experiments on my 100" - nothing worked
  15. The preface lift D2 uses the same system as the 200 and 300 D1, so an switch feed live to headlights. So the same thing works as on 200/300 and Pre Td5 Defender. Wire in a relay feed to each headlight so you are running 12v +; then fit modern lamps (Ozram Nightbreaker are good). Do this and you can see where you are going and don't need to fit the later lantern
  16. I think the op meant the other way - replace the plastic with glass
  17. I have a 15P ECU, but 😃I'm avoiding projects at the moment; ;thank you anyway
  18. It's a fair point. I was offered a clean, solid 15p vehicle the other day for £450.00 needed a replacement ECU
  19. If you mooch about on Expedition Portal, it's interesting to see just how many colonials are using the D3 and D4. No , ok, they get the better engine options, but all say how parts have come down, dramatically, in price, thanks to the weak pound. One of the EP members runs a company that makes an excellent diagnostic app for D3/4/RRS; that is up to factory spec diagnostics. The D3/4 is an enormously capable motor - check out Andrew St Pierre White's trip up Baboon Pass in Lesotho, in a Standard vehicle. If I bought one, I'd probably still opt for the V8, but I can't shake the concerns about reliability and the problems with simple maintenance issues. I love them as a drivers vehicle and for sheer practicality. However that practicality is no where near that of my own D1 200tdi. I can tow all up weight, whilst also loading the vehicle to all up weight; rare that I need to, but it does happen. What to do when my 26 year old bus finally dies? I don't know. I've looked and looked. D2? No, not unless I change the engine and chassis. There's nothing Japanese that's better or as cheap to run. A long wheel base G would be nice - but £15k for a reasonable start of project, 30 year old bus - nope. Reminds me of an old friend, an ex pat in Spain, who owns a 30 year old RRC 200Tdi. He's inherited enough money to replace it. Upon looking around and doing some calcs, it's staying and he's doing enough work on to last another 20 years So I know what I need to do. But as to advice on what you should do..make a list. What do you need and do you want. What is it about your defender that makes you need to replace it?
  20. Or ask Nick - the amount of paraffin he uses in one year must be huge!
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