Nonimouse

With most service stations and services having to fit secon, or even third transformers, simply to run charging points, adding batteries to the mix will make it even more difficult to undertake logistically and financially. It's not just rural supplies that can't cope. The H line - the 175Kva run that runs parallel with the M5 from Exeter to Bridgwater is at peak input and supply. The new funky supply from Hinkley to Bristol (and it's spur to Gravity) is already way behind in design terms. The reason we are seeing so many localised biomass powered generation plants, being built on a local scale, is to supply an already overstreched grid - and that's before we take into account the EV needs. The best option is the Hybrid. It works. Global pollustion is not about cars - it's about poorly designed, poorly serviced cars and a lot more, much bigger issues. Dependance on fossile fules is here for a damn site longer than 2030 in all practical terms

Is there any engine that is perfect? But the M51 is still probably the easiest no genuine conversion. It's actually only a bit more powerful than standard. So much smoother.

Locheed Mahl Cooper Britpart - but you have to use that two year warranty Gwyn Lewis Delphi

three point mounting on cab and bed

There isn't, but always buy direct form Elring

The M51 would probably be the easiest - more so than the M57 - and arguably a better engine. I would probably opt for the OM605, with a mechanical pump off the OM662, again for simplicity. However the OM612 is rather sexy... I like simple though. It keeps working. As you say, why change the TD5? It's pros and cons are well known and documented. Parts aren't stupid money. It's been proven to do big mileages when cared for. It's really not that complicated. Parts are less well made than they were - some big problems with OE lifters, for example. But that's par for the course. Out of the box, the Disco TD5 is one of the best vehicles land rover ever produced. Very little needs to be done to make it tow well, drive off tarmac well, carry a family and all their kit for two weeks holiday, general run about. Ive driven two 300 converted D2's. One was a Black Paw vehicle, fitted with a tuned 2.5 300Tdi. It was nice. At the time I had a 51 plate D2 auto, tuned by IRB Developments. I liked the converted vehicle. It was good. But it didn't set the world alight. My D2 was a blast. The difference in power train is just huge. The other conversion was by the company in Dorset. It isn't worth talking about.

The OP may mean one of the 300Tdi converted D2's - there are a reasonable few about, along with M51 and OM605 conversions Ben Stowe up at Black Paw 4x4 did a few https://www.blackpaw4x4.co.uk/author/ben-stowe/ There was also a company in Dorset, but I can't remeber their name - wasn't that impressed with the quality either

The rear diff mounts are prone to wearing out. Cheap rubber bushes. SuperPro make a replacement unit (or did). That's generally what causes your problem. If you have a genuinely worn drive shaft, remove the rear prop as well

Leatherman multitools have a 25 year warranty. at 24 years they replaced my old Supertool, with blunt wire cutters and a bit of slack, for a Supertool 300. No argument. Superb service. Unlike Gerber who had to be cajoled and threatened into honouring their 21 year warranty, then replaced the Diesel with a piece of cheap chinesium rubbish. I've had a Bosch Dealer replace a battery after 7 years, on a 5 year warranty, but that warranty is now 4 years

I see where you are coming form

But they never break - ever. They have a certain cuteness, and having driven a couple over some pretty serious terrain, they make a Mog look what it really is - lardy, over complicated and unreliable

It's a damn site less time to whip the head off, strip it, get it skimmed and put it back on But enough about Mike

Always fancied these. Slow, but so capable. https://mortarinvestments.eu/catalog/item/praga-v3s or a https://mortarinvestments.eu/catalog/item/gaz-66?

Scotland is like that. I'm wondering if your head is warped. Quite possible after many hard miles on a blown head gasket..

Did you check the true of the head ?

The Ukrainian 'post war' auctions will be selling on a lot of Russian kit

Going by the quality of pums these days, if it feels like that, check it, new or not

My mate just picked one of these up, for scrap value. Runs like a sewing machine. https://hmvf.co.uk/topic/36687-restoration-of-fmw-matey-dockyard-truck-otherwise-knows-as-navy-hog-truck/

Look up Mocal and also ask Merlin Motorsport

I thought it was owned by Frogs... But it does explain the appalling quality

I wouldn't worry about 15psi. Oil tyope and manufacturer, gauge reading and oil condition all make the figure vary A knowledgeable engine chap once told me that if you allow 10psi per 1k RPM, that will do nicely. More is just a bonus. I can lower my oil PSI by simply running Smith and Allen semi synth 10w40, rather than Shell Rimula 15W40

The choice of Allmakes or Britpart is an unpleasant one

Those are the ones I have - yet to fit, on my spare engine, due to lack of time

The problem with line boring isn't the cost, it's the need for a bare block. Fine if you have all the time in the world to strip the lump, and the parts you will need - for example all the shells (becuase why would you strip it and not replace?), then even more time to re-build it.

I've got a set of 200tdi cam bearings here. The great land rover curu, Pete Broom advised me that it is possible, in many cases, to simply reafix either the origionals, if not too mullered. or replacements, without resorting to the utter pita that line boring is Mike, I would offer you a spare engine, but it has the same problem