Nonimouse

couple of coats of red oxide and a couple of coats of industrial enamel paint, watered down with 5% thinners

After I read this, I wondered over the road to The Mighty Modus, left standing for over 6 weeks. Started first time.... Yaesua magic. The Dub (T4) will last 3-4 weeks and still turn over the 2.5 il5...Yaesua

Newts have opposable fingers and Palmate and Smooth newst are only protected under Section 9(5) of the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 I was of course referring to the Alpine Newt - an immigrant species, that is used in it's home country as a small blacksmith. Double S stainless is the very rare semi transluscent stainless steel...

I've got the Draper 12 volt strater pack (cheap in the sale at Mole Valley) as well as three other cheap versions form our comrades in the far east. Ive also got a Halfords (Ring) jump pack. I generally use them as camping power packs for phones etc, but the Draper is excellent at starting stuff - even helping start a 6-71 Detroit

...and Bearmach and Britpart 'JENEWEWINE' are made by Double S, from tin foil, with the bends formed by trained newts

Generally, the centre section is a resonation dampner rather than a true silencer. The actual sound deadening is down by the turbo (lots) and the back box. Your best bet is to get a decent back box, but good luck with that

Both R380 and LT77 were used in two wheel drive cars - MG for one

Never used them, but it's still a shame

Belzona

But don't forget there is a Neil

Did you speak to Neil or Neal?

Reminds me of Andrew Graham's old 200tdi racer. 250bhp at the flywheel. Flames out of the exhaust. He was running a very interesting cam amongst other things. And it was reliable

finding a known earth will help to identify this... my favourite tool for this sort of thing is: https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/sealey-pp1-auto-probe-6-24v-SEAPP1?type=shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIprS524q09AIVnYBQBh3hnwsgEAQYASABEgKSXvD_BwE

Create a known earth and see if that allows the light to come on.

I remeber the build thread - it was imnpressive

What he sadi - do you still have your MOT tyres and rims?

OE non Gas, for the your vehicle would have been Woodhead or Armstrong. With Gas (dealer option) Delphi, Sachs, Boge or Gabriel. Somewhere along the line the non gas option seems to have been discontinued Your vehicle has a max dynamic load rating , for roof loading, of 75kgs. I have seen, but can't find now, a graph showning the exponential effect that roof loading has on the 90/110/Defender design. This all changed in late 2007 with revisions to springs, ARB, tyre pressures etc. The graph showed that even a small addition of weight to the roof has a noticeable effect on the roll centre of the vehicle....

I've ben meesing about with suspension on vehicles for years. I used to compete in endurance rallies, as well as doing some very long distance overland support work. I've never been rolling in cash, so needed a vehicle that could do everything I asked of it. Still do now, although I don't do endurance stuff anymore. I also did product tests for magasines, which gave me a chance to dig deeper into the cost and build quality side. When it comes down to it, very few of us can throw money at a vehicle, so finding well priced products that work is important. The Bilstien tech's response should cover all vehicles. Everything wears. The whole reason we use a bush rather than a Rose joint is to absorb differing wear and tear. The best alround set up I have every fitted to a Land Rover was on an old 300Tdi Disco Auto. Bought Cheap to strip for 'overland' parts and scrap. It had such a sweet drive train I decided to sort the welding. Part of the 'Overland ' mods were Terrafirma HD springs and shocks that lifted the vehicle 3". It handled like an overladen wheel barrow. I bought the correct colour Heavy Duty 'OE' springs form Britpart and some Delphi Gas shocks (£16 a corner!). It handled like a dream, lovely firm ride, but not overfirm. No body roll. Just lovely. I was going to keep it, but SWMBO wanted a D2

We used to sell various LPG heated showers, when I worked for OEC. The biggest issue with them was that there were generally too hot and lacked control. The system I use now, which includeds utily toilet/shower tent, shower, battery, solar panel for trickle charge, improved shower head, 12 litre water container, duck board, flooring tile, shwoer curtain, 20litre toilet, sundries; cost less than £100 quid. It gives a decent shower, with lots of flow and reasonable pressure and works well from March to November.

On most of the cheaper end , yes (cheaper being up to £75.00 a shock) and in some case on the more expensive; the Procomp MX-6 often comes with a selction of tubes of differing thickness

Generally the metal insert in a shock is becuase it's OE fitment had/has a bigger diameter mount. Shocks are interesting things. As LR is a low volume manufacturer, especially compared to Jeep or Toyota, most after market LR shocks are actually built for other vehicles then 'modified' to fit LR or UMM or so and so forth. The LR market is tiny... The metal sleeve is not essential - it doesn't come with Woodhead, Delphi or Gabriel who actually make shocks for Land Rover. Also shocks are generally very cheap. A standard Terrafirma gas shock comes in to the UK at less than a fiver wholsale. If you have no lift on the vehicle and are running Red/Red on the rear, white/white or yellow/yellow on the front I'd buy standard gas shocks - usually Delphi or Sachs. Both good makes and very high quality for a very cheap price

Give Pete Broome a bell at Beacon Motors in Honiton - ask his opinion.

John, A suggestion. Ring Richard at SuperPro. He's a busy man, but he knows suspension. SP work with Bilstien Europe to provide dealer replacement kist for a number of 4x4's. The also work with Eibach. Richard also has access to SuperPro Au's founder (and owner of Fulcrum Suspension), a chap called John Scudamore-Smith, who has 50+ years of suspension experience. I've just been out and checked the Bilstien shocks in the garage - no metal sleeves. I 've fitted a lot of Bilstien shocks over the years, as they are what I recomend to build clients. I don't recall metal sleeves

I bought a cheap ebay intercooler for the Disco, about three years ago. It was cheap as well. Issues so far have only been in fitting - it was slightly bigger on all dimesnsions from a standard intercooler, which was an absolute pita. The other issue was no swadges - easily sorted. It has a 30% plus capacity on the origional (which I didn't really need), what was a big improvement, was that the inlet and outlet pipes are much thinner material (2mm), thus allowing a much better flow over standard. Corrosion has been non existant - despite the big miles I do. If this one fails, I'll go down the same route - at £65 quid a pop and having modified the radiator surround...

After fitting the nozzles, did you have the injectors calibrated ?