Nonimouse

I can't get the numbers together to do a specific 'day', so instead, we are going to run 'side by side' with 4x4 days at their monthly events. Payment will be to 4x4 Days for the site and insurance fees. That way if only three people turn up, it can still work. The March even will be the first. I will put up a list of dates for forward planning

Disagreement is fine. I've lost count of the number of pumps I've changed on TD5's (mainly due to poor filter maintenance) and they are a recognised fail point on the engine. If you pull the fuse and let the pump drain out it won't start

Or you could fit a Ford V6....

Pumps fail for a pastime if the filters are not changed regularly. But they fail slowly, getting louder and louder. As they fail, they fail to raise enough pressure for the compression cam - hence the pressure regulator. They must have 4bar minimum to start. I would check this before the washers

The only time I've experienced fuel saving with forced induction is on Diesel engines. There are so many other issues that will effect the consumption - tyre type, size and pressure, atmospheric pressure and temperature, driving style, road type etc etc Get the engine and gearing right first

As and when it all happens, I'll start a thread, I promise

I've still got to finalise the purchase of the new motor. It's a 1989 LWB 461 G wagen, which is the 4x4 I've always wanted. It's solid and the only change is the engine. The 605 is a brilliant engine, almost as good as the 617. This one runs a standard mechanical pump and no intercooler, both things that will need to be addressed, although the latter is going to be fun, as there is air con fitted. Worst case scenario, I have a 617 that needs a home.

I bought mine form Nick at Steg's supplies. Not being rude to Vulcan Bomber, but I know Nick's work and there are a lot of sub par pins and rings out there and I wanted to be sure. The change in the pump cam timing is dark magic. It makes a big difference to some things and a small difference to a lot of things. I don't run an aftermarket boost pin as I don't see the need. Neither do I see the need (or science) to run a twin inlet. I run 300 tdi nozzles on 200 injectors, but the flow is the same. Standard 200 nozzles would fuel 170+bhp easily, but are difficult to get.... I've polished the exhaust outlets and manifolds. Turbo is set to 1bar, and there is a cheap replacement intercooler fitted, that's a little bigger and flows better. Pre ring I was getting 35-38 to the gallon (measured). Post ring, I'm getting a regular 36 mpg on the dot. Towing is easier. There is more 'off boost fuelling'. I've noticed more exhaust 'smoke' but it's burnt diesel, not unburnt (which I never had a problem with). The engine is quieter - noticeably so. Gearchanges are smoother ( I tend to double declutch down the box, and even that is easier) I'm in the process of replacing the Disco, for a non Land Rover. I'll be sad to see her go, but she will be given, rather than sold, to someone who knows here well and will love her as much as I do. My replacement vehicle (if all goes well) will be powered by an OM605, thus opening up a whole new world of diesel fun

Yes, no problem

Give us a clue as to which vehicle

I was wondering if that was the anchor point, but it's too big. I think its around the bash plate

I mentioned this on a thread elsewhere. I'm going to be running a 'winching day' at a site called Binegar Quarry, near Shepton Mallet, Somerset. I'm not charging for my time or expenses, but will be running the day under 4x4Days banner and their TPL insurance. 4x4Days will ill also cover the site cost , so will expect to be reimbursed. All in all I reckon on 50 quid a head if I can get 14 people. Technical stuff will be done by me and Angus Norrish. I'm hoping to have some shiny stuff for folk to try out. It won't be a course as such, but I can supply and attendance certificate if required Looking at the back end of March Anyone interested?

The blue string isn't poly-prop rope, it's Viking synthetic rope or a very good copy I'm loving this new concept in recovery though

1275cc and very short stroke. Revved like a B&st&rd

200 series

I 'recovered' a car stuck on a speed bump last night. No pictures as it was dark, cold and I couldn't be bothered. I was in my Suzuki Vitara (2wd) on the way back from a most excellent event at Wookey Hole Theatre. Just coming in to Wells on the back road, we came across a slammed BMW E36 that had grounded on one of those odd speed bumps that are in the middle of a lane. I will admit to laughing. I always carry a kinetic rope in the back of the Suzuki, along with a couple of soft shackles (just in case)

Is it an EDC engine?

I just use a little GPS speedo, from TEMU. It's ridiculously accurate and was less than a £5

They are a surprisingly good tyre. Just remember to back off the throttle if you start to spin

On a D1, the head light washer has a return pipe - I believe it fits the D2 reservoir

Val d'Isere, now that's a blast from the past! Those weren't slopes, they were precipices... Matthew of those pictures you've posted, the one with the nice G reg 90 is the one that would ring bells with me. the angle almost doubles the actual slope because of the COG weight transfer of driving up and across. The final picture shows a cat with loads of room to manoeuvre to place the vehicle safely. With your experience in trialling/greenlaning your brain will be telling you the same thing We're not knocking your idea, what we are saying is that this is probably not ideal for the job. If your insurer insists on this then ask them how they would do it. As an expert witness, I've been called to court over a couple of vehicle rolls, where people have been killed. I was asked by the Coroner at what point a vehicle becomes unstable. My answer was that the driver can tell as he/she/they can feel the vehicle destabilise, at which point a trained driver will turn downhill to stabilises what is usually the uphill rear wheel. I've driven a fair few Japanese vehicles with inclinometers fitted, all of which I've put black tape over. Your vehicle is, as I mentioned before, unique and the bolt on inclinometer is not approved for accurate measurements or even guidelines, it's a toy. However me wandering around a P&P site with a ranging rod and a hand held clinometer https://ninefit.uk/products/suunto-pm5spc-opti-clinometer?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk5iAuM_igwMVMJFQBh1Ngw9mEAQYAiABEgLBgPD_BwE that is TUV/CE/BSS approved to measure amongst many other things, slopes is allowable as a defence in court.

three

I do, but I'm not alone 🤤

Stick with the Continental Cross-contact. AT wise the best on the market at the moment is the Falken WIldpeak AT, but that's over the top for what you require. Also, go on am off road driving course

When teaching off tarmac driving the thoughts on inclinometers in vehicles is thus: "If the manufacturers (or common sense) say a maximum incline of, for example, 1 in 2 (45 degrees) then that is calculated for a standard vehicle on a smooth surface, not moving, with OEM tyres, no lift, no additional weight in the vehicle etc." In competition, unless it is a single make event, where the drivers are weighed and ballasted and the vehicles are identical and the course is smoothed back to EXACTLY the same before each vehicle drives it, asking for inclinometer reading from one specific vehicle that is unique in specification, would be pointless and wouldn't stand up in court The MSA allows the use of a hand held clinometer, such as Suunto or Nikon, to gauge the approximate steepness, from out of the vehicle, allowing for the on foot inspection to investigate hollow, bumps, large stones etc.