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Everything posted by Nonimouse
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200Tdi injector nozzles: Buyer beware!
Nonimouse replied to RRC200Tdi's topic in International Forum
Did you get any information on the supposed 'uprated' 2.8 TGV injectors? They are sold as an improvement on fuelling - by a company who sell cheap boost pins. But I have been told there is no difference between standard 300 and 2.8 -
de-tuning 200Tdi to reduce smoke
Nonimouse replied to monkie's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
There are two types of 'Boost Pin ' on the market. Cheap and quality. Steg's supplies do the quality bit. Essentially the idea behind the boost pin is a hug increase in fuel on demand - so lots of coal being rolled and a bit of a power increase on a tired, poorly maintained lump. The big difference between Steg's pin (aside from quality) is that he explains how to properly tune the pin... But we can't knock the need, by some, to make more than a modest living. -
If you look at it and go through , in your head, everything minor that can go wrong, be a pita and should be part of the regualr maintenance programme. Replace nuts and bolts that look iffy, jubilee clips etc - and make a list of what you didn't change that you need to change as and when you have some readies
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ibex 300 build
Nonimouse replied to miketomcat's topic in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
I Have a coupleof spare LT77#s if you are caught short. I also have an autobox for a 200tdi and all the associated fittings. Box needs a service and a new sump seal - just in case Meant to say, I've found a couple of X9 plastic end plates - if you want one -
Some climate scientists - not most. In fact a small faction. Most are saying that sustainable energy is the easy way forward and it's cheap. Nuclear in all it's forms is expensive - it's big, big bucks, in a world with not a lot of bucks and a majority population who struggle to pay bills. Yes , lots of options - hugely expensive options; hence why so loved by government Gas consumption is going down, fast - sustainables are up - over 40% of UK electricity It's an 'electric car' situation - enough waffle can blind even the brightest minds
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Back ups could just as easily and for far less spend by tidal, current, AD, micro hydro, refuse etc - so many options. The ONLY good thing about Nuclear and the main reason it is promoted so much, is the build is good for the economy. It simply isn't sustainable and it is far too expensive
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Hose pipe in all the coolant orifices - if you do this when changing the P gasket - you avoid getting lots of crud in the water pump housing Don't use Diesel, use gunk or similar
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OX Motor burned after winching out under load?
Nonimouse replied to Rasmus's topic in Competing in Land Rovers
Was that the retailer or Red directly? -
In Europe, countries swap electricity. Spain grows the most solar electric and has a huge 'pipeline' over the Pyrenees to France, who then sell some of it to the Germans (who have lots of Dirty Electricity), which helps to reduce their carbon footprint. France has a very low production carbon foot print - mopst of their saleable electric is Nuclear. On a rural level France is the biggest user of localised AD units in the world - in some areas each village of more than 300 population has one. Nuclear has a low production footprint, but a massive initial carbon hole - Hinkley C will need fifty years to offset it's carbon hole - simply because of the build materials and machinery used on site. Nuclear is also people heavy - lots of people to run a nuclear powerstation and then at decomissioning time it's also very carbon heavy. Lots of information streams. Very, very few people read them all. Many take a view and only follow that, often to the point of detriment
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But nuclear is th emost expensive way to generate electricity. I'd pay more to generate enegry sustainably - more wind, wave, tide, hydro, AD.
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And I bet you were younger then. Mike is the wrong side of 50, has a dodgy back (body?) and is limited in time. A pre mix arrives. Mike and every mate who owns a wheel barrow are ready to shift 4- 5m3 of perfectly mixed and warranteed concrete. Everything is prepared, steels are down, shuttering place, vibro wand to hand. an hour later it's all done. No one has had to barrow more than a m3 (2.2tonnes) and all is good
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Clean the engine Back flush the cooling system P gasket Ancilleries belt Core plugs See if you can find out where all that oil leaked from
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Price up a short load of pre mix - although anything with cement in it is expensive these days
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Split charge, solar and 240v hookup
Nonimouse replied to Chris Davies's topic in International Forum
I run an aux battery for lights, charging etc, but not fridge, that's gas For shower, tent lighting and other power I have two seperate batterie. Both with charge controllers. One 27amp hour, for the toilet lighting and shower. One 7amp hour for the tent lighting and children's entertainment systems. Both batteries run small solar panels, that match the trickle charge rate for the individual battery. When I fianlly move over to a compressor fridge, I have a similar set up ready -
Metal is most likely to be cheaper at the moment. 12mm shuttering play is £40 a sheet! If you need steel trusses I might be able to help - but it will involve a journey to north of me. I'd also drop James a text, as he often knows of barn roofing.. Also DM Angus Norrish - he's a useful source of stuff
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Thoughts and Musings on the Ineos Grenadier
Nonimouse replied to Bowie69's topic in The New Ineos Grenadier
He doesn't do winches anymore. So no -
Water creeps - so can be coming in almost enywhere. I use gutter sealant (the stuff that doesn't go off) on every seam, join and body gasket - it almost works
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Thoughts and Musings on the Ineos Grenadier
Nonimouse replied to Bowie69's topic in The New Ineos Grenadier
On a more positive note. The winches and winch mounts will be made in Somerset. The latter being made very close to my house -
Don't assume. It's a Warn, cheap parts, made cheaply and assembled cheaply. The motor is actually very simple - although depending an age it could be one of about 4 types. The only unpleasant bit is holding the brushes back to allow the contact face to slip back in - I use very thin, small zip ties. Have a look at these videos
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UK Government proposals for "Anti-tampering".
Nonimouse replied to Tanuki's topic in International Forum
That's a bus lane camera and they are carp. AMPR is somewhat better -
One of the very few decent winches Warn made/make Firstly check all the electrical connections - especially HV - clean themrefir using electrolytic grease If the solenoids go back and forth, they work - but does one or more get hot under load? Then whip the motor off and strip it down - clean all the conductive faces - use electrolytic grease on the brushes - re-assemble (you'll need some freezer bag ties or thin zip ties) Whip the gearbox off and empty out the gear cluster - you'll probably find that your mechanic has over greased it or used the wrong grease. It only needs a thin smear of lithium grease or one shot - use an old 1/2" pain t brush and a very thin smear over the mating faces. I alwasy reassemble with the help of an oil can filled with 15w40 engine oil... There is an in drum brake that rarely causes issues, but may be siezed - it only comes out one way. the brake pades may need freeing up... Have fun
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I'm badly allergic to latex and even to Nitrile after prolonged use. I do a lot of knapsack herbicide application and have done for the last 40 years, an over the years I've developed a sensitivity to Nitrile and have always been allregic to latex. So much so that the outer dermis on the back of my hands is almost as fragile as a long term steroid user. I use a barrier cream to help with the nitrile issues and have found Mamba nitrile gloves to be better than most, along with the purple medical nitrile gloves. For work on the vehicle and protect the skin on the back of my hands I use lightweight leather gloves or , for heavier jobs I use mechanix gloves (preferably the ones with the knuckle protectors I'm keen on the military spec gloves for when I'm doing chainsaw work - chainsaw gloves are not mandatory, unlike boots and leggings...