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Getting Comfortable
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About JUKE179r

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  • Location
    Suffolk, UK

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  • Interests
    DJing, music production, Beer connoisseur, Land Rover & BMW enthusiast
  1. Gotcha. Cheers! I received my pair of front hubs made by Taiwan company Trusted Reliable Quality (TRQ) part number BHA54105 / 1ASHF00449 which cross references to Land Rover’s part number TAY100060. These front hubs have the indent channel for the rear hub's o-ring.
  2. Is this true? I've read on a few other forums that the D2 front hubs had the longer sensor cable. I looked in the RAVE manual and it doesn't specify the lengths. Maybe the length is up to the different manufacturers of the hub?
  3. Get an UltraGauge or a good diagnostic tester to monitor your temps in digits.
  4. Is the alarm going off also with flashing lights? try resetting the inertia switch under the bonnet or opening your drivers door with the EKA code.
  5. A couple of the Land Rover stealerships in my East Anglia area charge 80+ quid to retrieve the EKA Code. That is ridiculous for a 10 second scan. I do it for free (or for a beer!) for forum members in the local area with my Nanocom.
  6. IMHO... Find someone with a Foxwell, Hawkeye or Nanocom to help change that EKA code to something easier to input and remember.
  7. Those SRD500070 SLABS units are hard to find but do pop up on eBay every once in a while for crazy money.
  8. Like rockets on a turtle. lol
  9. On my Disco 2 I have a 75lbs (pounds) strut I bought off of an eBay seller in the states. They came as a set but I only used 1 gas prop. I tried a 60lbs strut at first but it wasn't strong enough and couldn't hold the bonnet open. 75lbs works great.
  10. The flashing M&S lights can be caused by any electrical faults. Low battery voltage, bad/loose connections to battery, xyz switch going bad, alternator going bad... Get the fault codes read so you can narrow down the problem.
  11. Cheap fix but very time consuming if the shift doesn't work. if it were the stock front driveshaft, I'd replace it.
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