Jump to content

David Sparkes

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Content count

    2,001
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

David Sparkes last won the day on January 18 2016

David Sparkes had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

20 Excellent

About David Sparkes

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • Skype
    David.Sparkes6

Profile Information

  • Location
    Derbyshire

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    The Diesel 38A,
    UK Narrow-boats,
    Carmichael FT6

Recent Profile Visitors

1,092 profile views
  1. David Sparkes

    Steve Parker P38a Steering kit

    I suspect that attaching the drag link to the tie rod is to do with reducing the wheel turns from 4 to 3. If the drag link extended all the way to the steering arm, as standard, the point of attachment is further from the swivel pin centre line. This means the end of the drag link has to travel further (side to side) in order to achieve the neccesary swivel of the hub to give full lock. To say the same thing in a different way; Attaching the drag link to the tie bar effectively puts the drag link attachment to the steering arm at the same place as the tie bar, closer to the swivel pin axis. For any given steering lock this shorter distance reduces the sideways movement of the drag link, the angular movement of the steering relay drop arm, and therefore the turns of the steering wheel. Regards.
  2. David Sparkes

    Help with Series 3 stop cable

    The fixing point is outside your photos. The large coil return spring partially visible in your first picture hooks at the upper end to a bracket fastened to two studs at the top of the distributor pump. This bracket has a bent downwards protruding tab, with a hole in the tab. Your clip bolts to that hole, and clamps the cable outer part way along it's length. The best overall picture is in the Workshop manual, Diesel Fuel System, FUEL DISTRIBUTOR/INJECTION PUMP, Remove and refit 19.30.07. Regards
  3. David Sparkes

    Here we go again... pre-MoT work

    When using any device with a forcing screw I HIGHLY recommend the complete thread is well lubricated with EP90 (a product I expect every LR maintenance person to have to hand). Regards
  4. David Sparkes

    New product from xcess4x4

    Slight angular variations aside, the biggest difference between Land Rover stiffeners for Series axles, and the fitted example of the new product, is that the new product has been fitted above the axle, and the underside left with nothing, whereas LR put Series axle stiffening on the underside of the axle casing. In the pictures of the fitted product in this thread I have taken the position of the axle breather to indicate the top of the axle casing. Judging by the alignment of the name on the new product, the positioning on top of axle casing is what is intended. Regards.
  5. David Sparkes

    Outside Temperature Sensor - P38 DSE?

    My recollection about the HEVAC was that it rechecked its status every time it was switched on, so if all the faults were cleared, a simple switch off and switch on banished the book and exclamation symbol. The trick bit is finding what exactly is still faulty!!.
  6. David Sparkes

    Outside Temperature Sensor - P38 DSE?

    I'm not sure where the RAVE confusion is arising, RAVE clearly defines the position of the ambient air temperature when manufactured. 20 years later it's always possible that a PO has moved the sensor from the earlier position to the later position, however, the dividing point at manufacture is set out in the air conditioning section of the Workshop Manual, where it states quite clearly: 'Ambient air temperature sensor. The ambient temperature sensor provides the ATC ECU with an input of external air temperature. Up to VIN 381430, the sensor is installed in the LH air inlet housing. From VIN 381431, the sensor is installed in a bracket attached to the LH chassis rail, behind the front bumper and immediately in front of the condenser.' What is your VIN? However, I recall that the twin fans are switched on via two alternative sources. One is the ATC ECU, the other is from the engine ECU. You are concerned about engine temperature, so I think you should be showing more interest in an engine temperature sensor. I recall there being two temperature sensors on the engine, one is for the gauge in the instrument panel, the other is involved in running the engine. To see the details for the latter you need to look in the ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual) (Circuit, section A6-Diesel). Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (X126) This sensor is a ‘thermistor’ (a temperature dependent resistor) where the voltage output varies in proportion to coolant temperature. The ECM (Z132) uses this information in many strategies, i.e. to correct the injected fuel quantity and timing (especially during cold starts), length of glow plug timing, etc. The sensor is located in the top of the engine block. In case of a failure, the warning lamp is not activated and the ECM (Z132) selects a substitute value of 50C for glow plug and ignition timing and uses the fuel temperature to correct the fuel quantity, glow plug timing will not be correct, possibly resulting in long crank times in cold weather. Correction. After re-reading the ETM sections involved, it seems that it is only the Petrol ECM that has the facility to switch on the condenser fans to aid engine cooling. My direct experience was 15+ years ago, so it's possible I have mis-remembered. Regards.
  7. David Sparkes

    Cleaning solution

    " Depending on the size of the item, buy your significant other a day at the Spa ... ". Thanks for that, I hadn't realised that Spas charged by the cubic foot ...! Regards.
  8. David Sparkes

    Rattler and son 1971 S11a swb Restoration

    I am concerned that the fan is misplaced in the housing. From my experience ALL of the fan blades should be inside the casing. When correctly mounted, the casing is held away from the bulkhead; the air should flow across the back of the heater, being drawn into the centre of the fan opening. The rotating fan then throws the air sideways, through the heating elements, and out of the holes in the casing. When the fan blades protrute even partially from the back of the casing, the exposed blades of the rotating fan blows some air (unheated) across the back of the casing. A two way flow is set up in the narrow space between the heater casing and the bulkhead, restricting the air flow THROUGH the heating elements. Heating output is thus reduced by two factors, restricted flow of incoming air, reduced flow of blown heated air I only discovered this after mounting a 'new to me heater' into a S2A previously without a heater. The outwards flow at each end of the heater is obvious once all the proper outlets are closed or taped off. The flow can be detected by hand, or by paper held partially over the heater to bulkhead gap. 'My' heater had been assembled without any spacers between the fan motor flange and the front casing, so I made some. Yours has some spacers so you might just need to increase the distance with some washers. I think the locking nuts are a bit overkill; using standard nuts will give you the additional stud length you will need. Just make sure the fan is positioned on the shaft to be as close to the motor as it can be, and don't pull the motor / fan assembly so far forward that the blades catch the fan speed resistor or its wiring that is within the front of casing. Regards.
  9. David Sparkes

    Seat belt dilemma

    An alternative is to 'mirror' the scheme that was pioneered (I understand, as far as mass production was concerned) in the original 2 door Range Rover, and that is use a seat that incorporates the belt in the seat frame. A previous owner installed such a seat, ex Mercedes Sprinter I was told, in the outside passenger seat of a Series 2 109". I understand high back seats incorporating seat belts are more readily available on the second hand market, due to legislation requiring all 'crew bus' style vehicles to have all passengers secured to the seat. This incurs other design work to make the fitment effective (design work the PO ignored), and that is beefing up the complete seat mounting, so that it isn't the occupant plus seat that head butts the windscreen. If you have underseat tanks, storage areas, or battery box, then the seat cushion has to be made easily removable. It might seem more work initially, but I suggest a neater result is achieved. Re availability, just to ensure I wasn't talking complete nonsense I eBay searched 'crew seats'. This produced some singles, but also some doubles and triples, with a wide variety of prices. Regards.
  10. David Sparkes

    Hub steering arm fouling

    Comparing the OP (Keeper 96) picture and the ones from Gazzar, the OP appears to have the arm upside down. You can see from Gazzars pictures that the Drag Link hole is further from the wheel than the Tie bar hole. Either that or it might possibly be a LH Drive arm fitted to a RH Drive vehicle. By the by, I appreciate it is a vehicle in build, but the threaded ends of the spring U bolts could do with shortening before it ventures on the road. Regards.
  11. David Sparkes

    2A gearbox / new clutch maybe needed/ confusion.

    It seems to me that the clutch isn't disengaging, thus while the engine is spinning you can only select the gears with synchromesh. You say 2A gearbox, I'm assuming a 2A clutch mechanism, situated on the RH side of the gearbox (viewed from the drivers seat). It could be a sticking release bearing, but I suggest eliminating the 'something else' first. Wear in the external linkage is not unusual, which will give you the lost motion that means the release bearing operating arm isn't being pushed far enough. In the linkage after the slave cylinder, look for oval holes where there are clevis pins, and look for worn holes, or broken pins, where the coupling sleeve is joined to both halves of the shaft. Don't forget the clevis pin / hole at the top of the pedal where it connects to the master cylinder push rod. If you have a pull-off spring attached to the pedal arm it tends to hide just how much play there is in this hole; remove the spring then pull the pedal towards, then push away from, the seat box to see how much free movement there is. For the rest it might help if you can get someone to push the pedal while you examine the linkage. Regards.
  12. David Sparkes

    Thread identification

    Yes but ... If someome has assessed a thread as BSF, I think it more likely that a BSF 'might' be forced into a metric thread, but unlikely that the BSF form be forced into a UNF thread. That's why I made Metric my first choice, but none of us can really judge just how brutal an unknown 'mechanic' might be, so I think we will be much more certain if Western et al can produce a part number. Regards.
  13. David Sparkes

    Stolen Discovery

    What engine & box? Do you have the numbers of either? And possibly the axles? Regards.
  14. David Sparkes

    Thread identification

    My starting point is that I don't think Land Rover would have used BSF form bolts or screws in a 1980 anything. Britain had been moving to the Metric system well before then, so 'metric' would be my first choice, with the previous standard, UNF, being my second choice. I no longer have access to a parts number database for Range Rovers, even for older ones from 1980. If I had, I'd look to identify the bolts used for the rear seat brackets where the nuts are captive in the side frame. As only one instead of four bolts per bracket have been used I think you are on a hiding to nothing try to use one of those two bolts as a size guide. It's highly likely that the installer used what came nearest to fitting, not the correct item. What you can probably take from it is a close approximation to the major diameter. Whatever you measure, my tendancy would be to round it up to the nearest mm, then look for a bolt / screw in that size and try it in the captive nuts that WERE NOT used by your two bolts. If you post a request in the Part Numbers section of the forum, someone who still has access to a parts list may well give you the number, which you can run through TSD's handy break back guide. Regards.
  15. David Sparkes

    Booster packs

    As Bowie69 says, there is a long history of use of petroleum jelly as described, but the 'why' is often ignored. Petroleum jelly has two attractive characteristics in this context. 1, It is very soft, so will easily squeeze out of gaps as the components are forced together, thus it doesn't remain trapped and insulate them. 2, It is inert, and doesn't react to or with any of the metals commonly used in electrical circuits. What happens in practice is that you spread PJ over the surfaces, including and nuts, screws, washer, and bolts used in the assembly. By making sure you give all surfaces a continuous coating (not just a big blob that you hope will get everywhere) you fill all the minor surface imperfections. As you tighten the connection the bulk of the PJ is forced out, allowing metal to metal contact, BUT the minor imperfections remain filled with PJ. This prevents water, or moisture laden air, from being trapped in these hollows, where the moisture would have reacted with the metals, forming the electrolyte of a battery, and thus causing electrolytic corrosion. The PJ, being electrically inert, doesn't form an electrolyte with the metals, so no corrosion takes place. Note that it's fairly easy to wash PJ off the outside of connections, so any connections subject to water spray should have a physical barrier to prevent spray impact. Regards.
×

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy