Jump to content
If you value this forum's future please support us

David Sparkes

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


David Sparkes last won the day on January 18 2016

David Sparkes had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

20 Excellent

About David Sparkes

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • Skype

Profile Information

  • Location

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    The Diesel 38A,
    UK Narrow-boats,
    Carmichael FT6

Recent Profile Visitors

1,049 profile views
  1. Rattler and son 1971 S11a swb Restoration

    I am concerned that the fan is misplaced in the housing. From my experience ALL of the fan blades should be inside the casing. When correctly mounted, the casing is held away from the bulkhead; the air should flow across the back of the heater, being drawn into the centre of the fan opening. The rotating fan then throws the air sideways, through the heating elements, and out of the holes in the casing. When the fan blades protrute even partially from the back of the casing, the exposed blades of the rotating fan blows some air (unheated) across the back of the casing. A two way flow is set up in the narrow space between the heater casing and the bulkhead, restricting the air flow THROUGH the heating elements. Heating output is thus reduced by two factors, restricted flow of incoming air, reduced flow of blown heated air I only discovered this after mounting a 'new to me heater' into a S2A previously without a heater. The outwards flow at each end of the heater is obvious once all the proper outlets are closed or taped off. The flow can be detected by hand, or by paper held partially over the heater to bulkhead gap. 'My' heater had been assembled without any spacers between the fan motor flange and the front casing, so I made some. Yours has some spacers so you might just need to increase the distance with some washers. I think the locking nuts are a bit overkill; using standard nuts will give you the additional stud length you will need. Just make sure the fan is positioned on the shaft to be as close to the motor as it can be, and don't pull the motor / fan assembly so far forward that the blades catch the fan speed resistor or its wiring that is within the front of casing. Regards.
  2. Seat belt dilemma

    An alternative is to 'mirror' the scheme that was pioneered (I understand, as far as mass production was concerned) in the original 2 door Range Rover, and that is use a seat that incorporates the belt in the seat frame. A previous owner installed such a seat, ex Mercedes Sprinter I was told, in the outside passenger seat of a Series 2 109". I understand high back seats incorporating seat belts are more readily available on the second hand market, due to legislation requiring all 'crew bus' style vehicles to have all passengers secured to the seat. This incurs other design work to make the fitment effective (design work the PO ignored), and that is beefing up the complete seat mounting, so that it isn't the occupant plus seat that head butts the windscreen. If you have underseat tanks, storage areas, or battery box, then the seat cushion has to be made easily removable. It might seem more work initially, but I suggest a neater result is achieved. Re availability, just to ensure I wasn't talking complete nonsense I eBay searched 'crew seats'. This produced some singles, but also some doubles and triples, with a wide variety of prices. Regards.
  3. Hub steering arm fouling

    Comparing the OP (Keeper 96) picture and the ones from Gazzar, the OP appears to have the arm upside down. You can see from Gazzars pictures that the Drag Link hole is further from the wheel than the Tie bar hole. Either that or it might possibly be a LH Drive arm fitted to a RH Drive vehicle. By the by, I appreciate it is a vehicle in build, but the threaded ends of the spring U bolts could do with shortening before it ventures on the road. Regards.
  4. 2A gearbox / new clutch maybe needed/ confusion.

    It seems to me that the clutch isn't disengaging, thus while the engine is spinning you can only select the gears with synchromesh. You say 2A gearbox, I'm assuming a 2A clutch mechanism, situated on the RH side of the gearbox (viewed from the drivers seat). It could be a sticking release bearing, but I suggest eliminating the 'something else' first. Wear in the external linkage is not unusual, which will give you the lost motion that means the release bearing operating arm isn't being pushed far enough. In the linkage after the slave cylinder, look for oval holes where there are clevis pins, and look for worn holes, or broken pins, where the coupling sleeve is joined to both halves of the shaft. Don't forget the clevis pin / hole at the top of the pedal where it connects to the master cylinder push rod. If you have a pull-off spring attached to the pedal arm it tends to hide just how much play there is in this hole; remove the spring then pull the pedal towards, then push away from, the seat box to see how much free movement there is. For the rest it might help if you can get someone to push the pedal while you examine the linkage. Regards.
  5. Thread identification

    Yes but ... If someome has assessed a thread as BSF, I think it more likely that a BSF 'might' be forced into a metric thread, but unlikely that the BSF form be forced into a UNF thread. That's why I made Metric my first choice, but none of us can really judge just how brutal an unknown 'mechanic' might be, so I think we will be much more certain if Western et al can produce a part number. Regards.
  6. Stolen Discovery

    What engine & box? Do you have the numbers of either? And possibly the axles? Regards.
  7. Thread identification

    My starting point is that I don't think Land Rover would have used BSF form bolts or screws in a 1980 anything. Britain had been moving to the Metric system well before then, so 'metric' would be my first choice, with the previous standard, UNF, being my second choice. I no longer have access to a parts number database for Range Rovers, even for older ones from 1980. If I had, I'd look to identify the bolts used for the rear seat brackets where the nuts are captive in the side frame. As only one instead of four bolts per bracket have been used I think you are on a hiding to nothing try to use one of those two bolts as a size guide. It's highly likely that the installer used what came nearest to fitting, not the correct item. What you can probably take from it is a close approximation to the major diameter. Whatever you measure, my tendancy would be to round it up to the nearest mm, then look for a bolt / screw in that size and try it in the captive nuts that WERE NOT used by your two bolts. If you post a request in the Part Numbers section of the forum, someone who still has access to a parts list may well give you the number, which you can run through TSD's handy break back guide. Regards.
  8. Booster packs

    As Bowie69 says, there is a long history of use of petroleum jelly as described, but the 'why' is often ignored. Petroleum jelly has two attractive characteristics in this context. 1, It is very soft, so will easily squeeze out of gaps as the components are forced together, thus it doesn't remain trapped and insulate them. 2, It is inert, and doesn't react to or with any of the metals commonly used in electrical circuits. What happens in practice is that you spread PJ over the surfaces, including and nuts, screws, washer, and bolts used in the assembly. By making sure you give all surfaces a continuous coating (not just a big blob that you hope will get everywhere) you fill all the minor surface imperfections. As you tighten the connection the bulk of the PJ is forced out, allowing metal to metal contact, BUT the minor imperfections remain filled with PJ. This prevents water, or moisture laden air, from being trapped in these hollows, where the moisture would have reacted with the metals, forming the electrolyte of a battery, and thus causing electrolytic corrosion. The PJ, being electrically inert, doesn't form an electrolyte with the metals, so no corrosion takes place. Note that it's fairly easy to wash PJ off the outside of connections, so any connections subject to water spray should have a physical barrier to prevent spray impact. Regards.
  9. P38 bmw diesel torque converter

    I can tell you how to get more boost at lower rpm (my interpretation of your comment 'something that spooled up a bit faster'), by taking better control of the turbocharger bypass valve actuator. The initial point is to realise that, as standard, the actuator starts opening the bypass valve as soon as tickover rpm is exceeded. The slightly open bypass valve allows exhaust gas to 'avoid' the turbo, so the turbo doesn't 'spool up' as quickly as it would if it experienced full gas flow. Basically you add air control valves that prevent any boost pressure reaching the actuator until boost reaches about threequarters of its maximum. The first additional valve then opens, the actuator opens the bypass valve, and hopefully the inertia of the accelerating turbo doesn't surge the boost pressure past its maximum level. Left on it's own, with the bypass fully open, the turbo will slow down, and the pressure will fall to the point the 'first additional valve' closes, shutting the actuator completely, and the cycle starts again, producing a cyclic surging which is both unpleasant and potentially damaging. The second additional valve prevents this, by allowing just enough pressure to reach the actuator so that it holds position, limiting the opening of the bypass valve, thus allowing the turbocharger to have enough power to maintain the desired maximum boost pressure. Note this system is entirely under your control, and its 'mis-management' is an excellent way of sowing the seeds of your own destruction, along with the destruction of the engine. You can keep the standard maximum boost pressure, and simply reap the benefits of the improved spool-up response. You can have both the improved spool-up response, and an increase in maximum pressure, enjoying the benefits of additional power throughout the rev range. IIRC, the maximum boost that can be achieved before the Engine Management calls foul is 22psi. At this point the engine goes into limp home mode, but will reset itself when the engine is switched off and back on again. The 'competion' answer is to fit a different pressure sensor so the ECU doesn't see the excessive boost. I didn't go that far, I recall setting a maximum boost of 18 to 20 psi. This recollection might be incorrect. Where I sewed the seeds of my engines destruction was holding higher gears in the manual gearbox, while using full throttle and high boost at 'low' rpm, relishing seeing the maintained high boost on the gauge when climbing hills, boost which exceeded the factory maximum at much higher rpm. I think you would be protected from this folly, of holding high gears, by the automatic gearbox, although I've never experienced driving the diesel modified as described, and backed with an auto gearbox. It should go without saying that if you went for higher maximum boost you should fit a larger intercooler, accepting the negatives of reduced airflow through the coolant radiator, and the difficulty of cleaning the radiator fins should the car ever go through muddy water. One modification I did do, which helped dampen the temperature spike when slowing down after arduous use, or even normal motorway cruising, was to introduce a manual electric fan control, switching the fans on low speed, to run continuously after the engine had reached operating temperature. You won't see the difference using the standard, heavily damped, temperature gauge, but I was monitoring the engine with my Rovacom, so saw more detail. This not only gave better control of the engine temperature, but also that of the intercooler (inlet air temperature). I naturally kept the standard viscous fan. Regards.
  10. P38 Key Code Lockout

    My advice with these is always to fix the known fault, which in your case appears to be the microswitches in the door lock. The problem could be the wiring to the lock, either in the door or in the car. I suggest the no cost approch is to remove the door panel, separate the wiring and manually link the wires that have the microswitches on the end of them, to see if the dash indicators light up. It could be a little tedious to enter the EKA in this manner, and very prone to error, so all I'm suggesting is proving the microswitches are broken, then change the lock. Do those MG ones have the same switches embedded in them? Regards.
  11. Disco 2 alloy-wheel nut replacements?

    Possibly MisteR Tee or possibly Wrington Engineering. I haven't used either. Regards
  12. Nearly lost the Defender!!!

    You might like to read the posts by Arte_et_Marte in this thread, but bear in mind the posts date from 2014, so the links tend to be out of date. Regards.
  13. New (to me) P38 - 2.5 DSE 1998 - Issues Advice

    Re the existing plugs, to really check their condition you should fire them up; individually or all together, it doesn't matter, providing your power source can deliver the current required. Individually, clamp the hexagon in a bench vice, or similar. Apply 12 volts across the vice and the terminal, polarity doesn't matter, although it would be conventional to apply negative to the vice and positive to the plug terminal. Applying power for 10 seconds should be enough to show how quickly they start to glow and how the red heat is distributed. Repeat the test with the new ones to get a comparison, and to make sure none are faulty out of the box. Regards.
  14. New (to me) P38 - 2.5 DSE 1998 - Issues Advice

    I don't know where else you are getting information from, but I'm certain that if the starter motor turns it proves the security handshake between the BECM and the engine ECU is good; there is thus no need to re-synch them. In this weather I'd say the prime reason for not starting is several heater plugs not working. Checking the control unit is working is easy; is 12v present at a plug while the orange light is lit on the dash? Note that the plugs will continue to be powered for some time after the light goes out. Checking that the plugs are actually heating properly is more difficult, if you have the facility to measure the current they are rated at 17A each. I'd consider it not unreasonable to buy a full set and change them all. Bear in mind you may need new inlet manifold gaskets as well. This link gives a simple 'How To'. Regards.
  15. New (to me) P38 - 2.5 DSE 1998 - Issues Advice

    By changing the fob battery it's possible that Key Resynchronisation also needs to take place. What I think will happen is that EKA may get you into the vehicle (and is shown to be effective by being able to remotely lock and unlock the car by use of the fob only), but the engine will not start because the engine ECU is not in synchronisation with the BECM / Fob. Just in case I have updated the document to include the different resynchronisation procedures, pre and post 97MY. Regards. EKA & Resynch. Sequences off RAVE v11-2.docx

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy