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David Sparkes

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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David Sparkes last won the day on January 18 2016

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About David Sparkes

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    The Diesel 38A,
    UK Narrow-boats,
    Carmichael FT6

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  1. Off the top of my head, without checking, and in no order of priority, I will suggest: VWP Vehicle Wiring Products, AES Automotive Electrical Supplies, Holden, Paul Beck, I think there is also a Vintage Wiring something, but that may be an alternative name for one of those already mentioned. I would also include MG and Triumph, separately, as search terms. Regards
  2. I was reporting my experiences, which you quoted in full. I did not venture into the technicalities of different auto boxes, partly because I did not have that knowledge, instead I focussed on my experiences from the passenger seat. I never experienced any concern because an auto box was in use, nor did I detect any unease by either driver because an auto box was in use. I did not comment on the 38A with auto box because I don't have that experience. As your comments reflect your views rather than comment on my quoted experiences I would have preferred that you didn't quote me at all. I will appreciate it if you edit your post accordingly. Regards.
  3. I was a regular passenger in a RRC with a V8 and automatic gearbox. I am now a regular passenger in a D2 with a V8 and automatic gearbox (Only the driver has changed!!). Both vehicles were / are on All Terrain tyres on standard wheels, no lifts or other 'enhancements'. Driving in the Peak District I experienced no qualms as the drivers tackled slopes, up or down. A big benefit was being able to take a very slow approach to a hazard knowing there was no possibility of a traction breaking gear change required when the route out was shown to be clear. During one downhill stretch I asked the driver about 'lack of braking' and locking it in a low gear. He demonstrated the effects of manually selecting a low gear. The result was very very slow! I didn't bother to ask again. Neither driver indulged in Pay and Play sites, nor even TYRO trials, just BOATs and UCRs. If such an option was available I wouldn't hesitate to use an automatic. Regards
  4. Crickey, talk about topic drift. All the OP is asking is, is it safe to have a soft LED that illuminates when the light switch is on. The answer is yes it is safe, and if he chooses to mount an LED separately to the switch the LED does NOT need a fuse. Regards.
  5. I now discover I shall be assisting on the GLASS stand on Sunday, but I don't expect to need the use of a Transit tipper at the end of the day 🙂 Regards.
  6. From my experience of them (in other cars), the Kenlowes are good in theory, but a bit of a maintenance liability once they have been unused for the summer. I was never certain the integral pump would start up again the following winter. Strip it down, spin the impellor by hand to unstick it, and all is well, but it takes a good 30 minutes to do that 3 second 'spin'. There is a specific hole and very distinctive blanking plug in the 2.25 block for a heater, towards the rear, left hand side when viewed from the driving seat. I'll say the heaters to fit are still available new from the heater makers, not LR; do you want 110 or 240 volts? The gentleman who supplied most of this information in 2011 /2012 has since died (Boris Hepp), but hopefully the work he did will contine to be of benefit. I'm not sure who I should credit the installed heater to. I will attach various files, although you will still have to search for stockists. Note that to do the job completely, according to the Heater Makers, you need additional kits, Connecting Mounting, and Power, but that you may be able to source alternatives yourself, at less cost. Regards. 2.25 heater 411111.pdf Connecting Kit 1920254.pdf Power Cable 1920255.pdf Mtg Kit 460303.pdf
  7. Am I the only one to be thinking the knob has been twisted 90 degrees and that the settings, and usage, would be a lot clearer if the control knob was turned 90 degrees counter-clockwise? The OP has said that he is sitting in the Left-hand seat, looking down over his Right knee, which seems to say the green control knob is to the left side of the main gear-lever. If I'm correct with turning the green knob counter-clockwise, point C should be nearest the front of the vehicle. Regards.
  8. In this respect, rather than 'what people did with it'. I believe it was the first car in the UK (and possibly world) to have the seat belts as a fully integrated part of the seat. I understand UK legislation had to be revised to allow this design feature. Initially a 2 door car, without this feature the seat belts were a trip hazard for people entering the rear seat. The seats are mounted on seat boxes, it was the need to take the strains associated with the seat belt restraining the occupant that led to a large number of fixings, seat box to floor pan. Regards.
  9. Have you assembled those 'dry', without any lubricant between the leaves? Regards.
  10. Looking at a Series 2A Parts list 605957 dated Dec '68, together with a 'locker 210204', your 250693 is a 1/4" BSF x 5/8" Set Bolt used for 'Fixing stop to selector shaft', that is, it's part of the gearbox. For the S2A there are two sizes of screws used with the swivel seal retainer, 10 of them are 1/4" BSF x 1/2", part number 237139, the other 2 are 250696, again 1/4" BSF; the length is not specified, but they are longer because they are the lock stop, so have to accomodate the lock nut. Given the need to hold the lock nut, and have some thread to spare, I'd estimate a length of 1". 250696 has changed part number to SH404081, both LR Series & Craddocks confirm the sizing at 1/4 BSF x 1" long. Double checking, the S3 parts list the swivel seal retaining screws as a combination of 250693 and SH404081, so I'm guessing it's a S3 list you are looking at. This is not my area of interest, it's just that I have to have the information as many S3 parts have been used as S2A part alternatives. Regards
  11. Based on what I read in the Forum of the Series 2 Club*, those that have the experience tend to cite local stockists they have found but this is mainly UK. As I rarely buy from nut and bolt stockists I haven't paid much attention. There again, I'm clearly not as prolific as you are, when it comes to work output. Writing this, I recall I have seen Namrick mentioned several times, in a positive vein. I have used them myself in the dim and distant past. They would meet your 'known brand / quality' criteria. As a side note, if you find on here the facility that enables you to interpret the BL era parts numbering system you can build up quite a table of LR Nuts, Screws, Washers, and Bolts, which of course you can use for 'custom' purposes. * Series 2 Club Forum. You don't have to be a member of the club to use the Forum, although there are 'Member only' sections. There are several Forum users who declare residence in Australia; if you posted your question (including the Custom requirement) you may get a response that reflects related experince from others on the same continent. Regards.
  12. You have posted in the Series Forum, so I presume that identifies the era of your vehicle. The safest source (most likely to be the correct size and fitment) is LR Fasteners (http://www.landrover-parts.net/). You can buy multiple individual items, but do note that they will do sets of fasteners for the whole vehicle, and those who have used them say they are well worth the additional cost involved as they come bagged and labelled. It seems to be a case of the quality being remembered well after the cost has been forgotten. I believe they may do sets for 'sub-assemblies' (say swivel assemblies, or a rear axle) but you would have to confirm details with the proprietor. I also understand he is more amenable to phone calls than emails, but given your location that may not be suitable for you. If you want a wider view of possible suppliers, put part numbers into LR Workshop (https://www.lrworkshop.com/). You may need to be aware of any updated part number to get full use of this site. While direct searches on LR Series and Craddocks web sites can be the useful in converting from 'obsolete old' to current, do be aware that the translations may take into account easy availability, rather than the direct equivalent. Regards.
  13. In what might be a perverse way, I'm rather glad I don't know what a 'jacksie outrigger' is, so feel I'm spared from making a considered comment about the rest of the vehicle. Regards
  14. You probably won't detect a code pattern, LR seemed to allocate numbers in an almost random pattern, probably based on a particular assembly rather than the physical characteristics of the Nut, Screw, Washer, or Bolt. This started with the Series 1, and was then expanded into the Series II, then IIA, etc. Numbers only started to be rationalised once LR stopped being LR and became part of BMC, British Leyland, etc. And yes, anything that isn't a BA size is intended to be high tensile. A little depends on where you are coming from, and what the desired outcome is. Are you looking through original parts manuals, using the often 6 digit number to then identify the physical characteristics so you can buy from a nut & bolt stockist? Or are you happy to convert the 6 digit number to a modern equivalent number so you can order from a LR specialist? In the latter case knowing the physical characteristics is more a 'nice to know' rather than essential, as you have to trust the LR stockist has got the conversion correct. Perhaps your location of Gold Coast, Australia, influences your approach, but I can only comment on UK experience. Overall it is often cheaper to buy any specialist bolts from an LR stockist; they will be geared to handle orders of small quantities, even one or two (although LR Dealers will often only sell in multiples of 5). A mainstream nut and bolt stockist will want to sell by the box, especially for oddball sizes such as BSF. The recommendation to use LRSeries to get a physical description is good, although not infallible they are probably better than the rest. Britcar can also be useful in this regard. Craddocks is the most likely site to recognise an obsolete number and give you a modern equivalent. Regard none of them as infallible. The other site that will always recognise an old number, but just tell you it's use and price, is LR Fasteners. Again, not infallible; sometimes the use you want it for is not what they list (but you may well be correct, a fastener may serve more than one purpose). LR Fasteners will sell you a kit for a complete vehicle, bagged and labelled, and I understand they will sell kits for complete assemblies, although I haven't availed myself of the opportunity. I also understand he prefers to talk on the phone rather than use email, but you can only ask if exceptions can be made, given your location and Time Zone. Expect to pay for the service, those who have paid sing about the convenience, regarding the price as a temporary hiccup. Regards.
  15. I have not done what you are about to do, but two things have stuck in my memory, from reading the exploits of others. I mention them because they might apply to your wife's vehicle. The metal wedges the rear engine mounts are bolted too are handed, be careful not to inadvertantly swap them. (The 'gear box mounts' are named rear engine mounts in the LR Parts book). There is an optional extra, an engine steady rod, which runs fore and aft, joining the gearbox to a cross member. This was normally specified with the heavy duty cooling fan. It also stops the assembly moving forward when the handbrake is applied, so giving an apparent increase in handbrake efficiency (the lever doesn't have to move as much). Regards.
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