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David Sparkes

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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David Sparkes last won the day on June 18 2020

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About David Sparkes

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    The Diesel 38A,
    UK Narrow-boats,
    Carmichael FT6

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  1. I'd like to query this statement please, because I didn't understand it. 1 / Ratio of what to what? I cannot see there is a ratio involved. 2 / 'Absolute' and 'Boost Pressure' simply do not fit comfortably together. You can have Absolute inlet manifold pressure (atmospheric pressure + boost pressure above atmospheric); You can have boost pressure above atmospheric, but I don't see how 'Absolute' and 'Boost' can be combined, it's one or the other. From the worked example "dropped intake temp by 25C, and you run 1 bar of boost, then the EGT will be 50C higher lower" it is suggested th
  2. I know the original Covid-19 has changed the world for a lot of people, but is it April 1st already? Or is there another Chinese developed Covid variation that targets vehicles (or their designers)? Regards.
  3. Seeing the term 'gas' I presumed American. I see the Location is given as Yucaipa, but had to look on Google. Yucaipa (/juːˈkaɪpə/ yoo-KY-pə) is a city located 10 miles (16 km) east of San Bernardino, in San Bernardino County, California, United States. Does California do LPG? I see it has standards by the Air Resources board, so I guess the 'Gasoline or LPG (Liquid Petroleum Gas)' question is still open! Sorry, I cannot help further 🙂 Regards.
  4. When you use the 100 lbf-ft figure, are you sure you are not confusing the nut in question with the similarly styled castellated nut at the rear of the gearbox? Item 47 v item 5 in the attached diagram? I can find no clear torque figure for item 5 in the S2 workshop manual. I note the S3 gearbox uses a different retaining method. Overall, I don't think the principal of HNJ is an engineering idiot. Several people doubt the choice of acetal as a material, perhaps they should extend him the courtesy of asking him directly. Unlike many 'LR design engineers' he is still with us to be as
  5. Note that the heating unit shown is only half the story. The purchaser will need to buy a power supply and a cooling system (pump, coolant resevior). The voltage of the power supply has a significant effect on the heating power available. Coolant pumps are often 12v so two power supplies might be required, 36v or more to run the inductive heater, the other to run the coolant pump. Regards.
  6. Ironically, if you strip out the header and just copy the address BETWEEN the image tags, the address actually works if you place it directly into your browser bar (Firefox for my test). This is the last image in your list. http://i.imgur.com/ZZyr9Tlm.jpg Note that this image cannot be ebedded in the forum because the forum only accepts https, not the http; however, you can click on the link and get a new tab open that shows the image. Regards.
  7. My thoughts are that if you can thread the remains of the seized bolts you can then screw in new (smaller) screws. This gives you greater access to heating the new screw and thus the old bolt directly, rather than heating up the whole area. Yes, I would use an inductive heater because there isn't any of the surrounding heat you get with a flame device. Inductive bolt removers are cheaper from 'China' than from the UK, but take longer to arrive. Your profile doesn't say where you are, but have you asked about hiring or 'borrowing' from a local garage, or enthusiast? Regards.
  8. 30 to 40 minutes. It depends on my estimate of how much charge I need to get to the next 'charge point' (which might be journeys end). The car contains a GoM (Guess o Meter) which judges, based on past use, the range available. Having preplanned the routes I know that I have 75 miles to the next point (say). If the GoM says 100 miles then I'm good to go. Like I said, it's been a learning curve, and my experience means I'm more confident now than I was originally. The break can also depend on the size of lunch that I have packed!! Regards.
  9. There is a learning curve around charging, but also the offerings have changed over the past 3 / 4 years. I have had my EV since 2018 and quickly settled on using the Instavolt network. The big advantage is payment via the standard Debit or Credit card. The value is always small compared to paying for drinks, food, etc, so you don't need to use a PIN. There may be other networks that use your standard card, but I don't know of them, Instavolt works for me. If I'm planning a trip that exceeds the range of the vehicle I go on Zapmap, apply the filter that just shows the Instavolt networ
  10. Interesting, since my earlier post I have recalled that I used Kalestead to supply the sheathed thermocouples and clamps. While I see they are still in business they don't list the products I used in the past, so it's good to see there is an alternative. Regards
  11. The same item on UK ebay It appears to have the same snag in either language, no EGT probe that would be suitable, or any advice on how to fit. In general, the 'standard' probe is a K type thermocouple, but the indicator has to be designed to accept it. I have used such a probe, but not in a Defender 300 Tdi, so cannot add more specific guidance. Regards
  12. The Carmichael FT6 used the same basic idea, based on the 109" Series 2A chassis. This created a 4 door Fire engine or a 2 door support vehicle. The majority were 4 door (4 seat) versions, for these the existing front bulkhead remained where it was, the windscreen being removed. A second front bulkhead was mounted roughly where the front bumper was, the bumper being removed and new chassis legs welded on, both forwards and sideways. Complete new 'inner' wheelarches were formed, with flat plates fashioned on top, these became the seat bases. Steering changes were minimal, the longitudinal t
  13. Thanks for the recommendation. I bought from this ebay shop for £79.00, it was delivered a week before the prediction, via Royal Mail. Some amusement - it wouldn't fit in the supplied pouch; I found a twin AAA battery pack in the pouch! The 'indicator of high voltage' can be momentarily triggered by static from my fingers if they wipe across the jaw; this possibility is covered in the instructions. The HV indicator lights up strongly when placed near a wide assortment of plug-in kitchen gadgets. I notice the 'essential zeroing' is a straight-forward press of the Zero button
  14. For people 'on the other side of the pond', Kroil seems to be the best of the penetrating oils. See this stateside comparison, while it includes WD40 it doesn't include Plus-gas, probably because it has limited availability in that market. For those of us in the UK, I have been guided by Bad Obsession Motorsport, specifically their YouTube videos on 'Escargot'. In one episode (I think 1 or 2) they were dismantling parts from the Ford lorry chassis, parts which had been in place for many years and exposed to road dirt and spray (clear similarities to our LR experiences). They made posi
  15. 🙂 Everyone has to start somewhere, it's just possible we mainly see the 'progressed' on LR4x4. 1 bar is roughly 15 psi, so your gauge is showing 22 to 24 psi. I don't know Defenders in detail, but I suspect others have written before about what they have found. The standard information will possibly be in the workshop manual, otherwise search for 'Defender Boost pressure'. You might also need to say what engine you are using. Regards.
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