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David Sparkes

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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David Sparkes last won the day on June 18 2020

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About David Sparkes

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    David.Sparkes6

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  • Location
    Derbyshire

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  • Interests
    The Diesel 38A,
    UK Narrow-boats,
    Carmichael FT6

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  1. Blanchards, Yes, but don't hang about. RETIREMENT NOTICE Pete, Frances and Nick Blanchard have finally decided to retire after 50 years having the pleasure of supplying our loyal and valued customers with their military Land Rovers, Trailers and parts needs. Over the next 2 years, we will be selling our entire stock of both vehicles and parts before we close our doors permanently. (Approximately end of 2023) From immediate effect, we will finish our Land Rover refurbishment programme and supply only 'As is' Land Rovers with of course full MOT and registration until our stocks have been depleted. Regards.
  2. Crickey, people scrap it because of a failed simple componant (plus a possibly failed tyre). Whatever money they have they don't deserve it, because it certainly isn't valued. Regards.
  3. The example I've shown is from a 1968 S2A. The pin you have shown is one I associate with the handbrake linkage, and the PTO linkage. Part 216421, shown on LRW, scroll down the page for multiple suppliers and pictures. At the bottom of that page there is a parts diagram, click on it to expand and see the associated clevis 279155, which you might recognise. Scroll down again and there is a link to somone selling them as a combined set, ebay item 321866115967. Looking at my parts list I see it shows 'alternative fixings', EITHER the screw you show OR the nut and bolt I show. Only one lever is shown, 576210 (now FRC6998). Again, scroll all the way down for a more modern parts diagram (only showing the bolt fastening). Regards.
  4. The brake anchor plates have different part numbers, Left 246565 and Right 246566. Recognising which is which is a bit more difficult!! Regards.
  5. I'm a little uncertain what is going wrong, but just as an illustration for others I'll include some pictures which formed my 'learning experience'. The bottom pivot was completely encapsulated in a big ball of very sticky grease, but I don't know when that had been put on. When I removed the grease the bolt and fixed point were excessively worn, but fortunately the clevis (on the bottom of the lever) was not worn. Note the clevis has one thick plate and one thin plate. I understand this is a design feature to ensure the thin plate will easily distort as the pivot bolt is tightened, The thick plate needs to be thick to enable a rigid joint. Note the 'shoulder' under the head of the screw; this is where the thin side plate of the clevis sat, and shows the bolt was not loose in the clevis. The reduced diameter of the bolt, and the oval hole in the fixed pivot shows that the pivot bolt was not tightened enough to clamp the fixed pivot. Corrective action was to replace the fixed pivot (cheap enough not to merit any sort of repair), to replace the screw with a new bolt plus nyloc nut. I also included two plain flat washers, one under the bolt head and one under the nyloc nut. These were to ensure neither the bolt or nut turned as the lever was moved. I greased all surfaces EXCEPT for the outer faces of the flat washers, as I wanted high friction against the bolt head and the nut. I tightened the nut / bolt as much as I could with normal length spanners. This may seem too tight, considering it's a pivot, but I had in mind the lever is about 18" long, making it easy to overcome the friction, considering the moving surfaces are greased. The gearchange is 'deliberate', it doesn't prevent movement, but 'I'll admit it isn't a fingertip change. I also inserted a new spring on the ball joint (not shown in your diagram), putting loops of locking wire around the shaft and the curved ends of the spring to ensure it cannot fall out (a standard failing). I don't know how this compares to your installation, but it's all I can offer to help. I don't understand the twisting you are experiencing. Regards.
  6. OK, now I'm confused. I went to check my 90/110 Parts listing. This shows the steering stop bolt as 12mm, but part number AFU1234, this is validated on parts sites such as Land Rover Workshop and is available for considerably less than the FTC4111 . The AFU1234 appears to come with the neccessary half nut and plain washer. I do not know the size of the bolt head. Regards.
  7. Yes, having found them I felt I 'had' to mention them, but also felt that it would be cheaper, especially in your location, to buy two bolts with 22mm heads and have the shank 're profiled' to a spacer section plus the 12mm thread. Mind you, the diameter of the spacer section looks so large, in relation to the 22mm head, that a separate sleeve would probably also be required. Regards.
  8. There are a second-hand pair on ebay UK, item 223992552763, but as you suggest, the normal offering under that part number appears to be a standard bolt. Regards.
  9. The part number appears to be 390939 and can be described as 'METAL BUSH - MULTI USE - DEFENDER - DISCOVERY 1 - RANGE ROVER CLASSIC (PACK OF 5)'. To support the 'multi-use' element, Craddocks describe it as 'Roller for Seat Slide Range Rover and Discovery and 90/110'. I have just recalled that if you search LRW by part number it shows an alternative use, as a spacer underneath the nut of a 'nut and bolt' holding a wiring P clip in place; presumably so that a socket can be mounted on the nut without fouling the P clip. The point here is that there is a P clip included on the original drawing of the lifting eye. Regards.
  10. You might like to be aware of the UK based Series Two Club. There are several US members already, although I understand it's a big place, so that doesn't mean there will be any near you 🙂 Via their website and Forum they have many circuit diagrams available, differentiating between Petrol and Diesel, Positive and Negative earth system,s and whether a dynamo or alternator is fitted. It's unlikely to have both a Positive earth system and an alternator. It is possible, but I mention it to point out that the wiring diagrams cover almost all eventualities. Many users appear to find the Club diagrams easier to follow than the LR versions. The brake light issue might be because the tail light and brake light wiring has been swapped over accidentally. Regards.
  11. In the days of copper coated aluminium wire strands and copper coated steel jaws (automotive jump leads) I accept the caution is valid, but many of those in question are 'folded' crush washers. The basic flat sealing washers also have 'deformable' as a required trait. It will be an interesting test to see if crush and sealing washers have also become 'steel underneath'. Regards.
  12. What you describe is a natural characteristic as Parabolics do not have the built-in roll stiffness that the multi-leaf springs do. TeriAnn Wakeman noted this. "Properly set up these (parabolic) springs will provide almost coil spring like softness. However since nothing comes for free there are a couple penalties that come with the soft parabolic spring. One is an increase of side sway. Two to four leaves only attached at the ends and middle have considerably less resistance to side torsion than a block of leaves in constant contact along their lengths. So side sway on curves, from quick maneuvers and body tilts for terrain will be more, and the dynamic centre of gravity will effectively be a little higher." Regards.
  13. Actually, the nuts DO swell. The nuts have stainless steel covers, the nuts corrode and the corrosion takes up more space and thus expands the stainless steel cover. This expansion of the cover is the 'swelling'. It means the standard socket struggles to fit. In mild cases a 12 point (bi-hex) socket can be hammered on, distorting the cover into the extra space inside the socket, but as the corrosion (and swelling) gets worse, the only thing that will fit is a larger socket. If the larger socket is 12 point it may not catch on the corners of the nut, especially as these corners are rounded due to the style of the covers. At this point a 6 point socket is required, but if this is 'flank drive', where each of the 'flat' sides curve inwards, they may still need hammering on as the 'curve in' meets the maximum point of the swell. Each person will have a different break point, when the cost of new nuts is less aggravation than choosing the best solution for each of the 20 nuts. Regards.
  14. I'm afraid a 2020 Evoke is a little uncommon in this arena, both from a model and age perspective. I don't know what is available Stateside, but a Google search brought up https://www.evoqueownersclub.co.uk/forums/ in the UK. Surely, with 275.6K posts posted by 15.7K members it must have something going for it. If you book a re-visit to your Service Advisor perhaps you will have to 'have my family with me full capacity' to replicate the conditions for the test drive. That comment is only slightly tongue in cheek! Regards.
  15. It's probable I don't fully understand the requirements, but the phrase 'so I don't loose any space in back' suggests access to the boxes is going to be restricted on occasion because you have something else above them, so any benefit is lost. An alternative might be to make a box small in area, but extending all the way from the bottom of the wheel box to the capping. Dependent on what you want to store in the box, you may need one or two storage trays, sitting one on top of the other, to separate all the contents. Yes, you still have to lift out the upper trays to access the lowest, but as the whole storage box reaches up to capping level there is minimal chance of other 'stuff' totally preventing access. Regards.
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