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David Sparkes

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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David Sparkes last won the day on January 18 2016

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About David Sparkes

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    The Diesel 38A,
    UK Narrow-boats,
    Carmichael FT6

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  1. With the comment 'Warranty void if label removed' I'd think it was an aftermarket supplied replacement, not a LR supplied item. If I'm correct it means that it isn't a LR number. Sorry, but I have no advice on what 'better' alternative to fit. Regards.
  2. OK, but I'm happier to have passed it on, and be pushed back, rather than done nothing. I am aware that an Eberspacher is not a 'nearly new tractor'. Regards
  3. Just what might be a serendipitous post. On the UKLRO Mailing List over the last couple of days there has been an exchange about these heating systems, the quoted post came in today. The writer I am going to quote works away from home, both home and work are in the wilds of Scotland, where it is often 'sensible' to sleep overnight in his Ambulance, at his place of work. From his other posts he comes across as a very resourceful and practical individual, who not only works well with his hands, but also with his head. I wouldn't lightly set his advice aside. Regards.
  4. I cannot squeak about the Defender, but on the Series 2A 109 the famous 'barrel curve' only exists on the outside. Inside the tub there is the straight but angled stiffener dropping down from the capping. If you are being inspired by the earlier design, the latest mention I find by the maker dates from 2011, then perhaps a view of that product will be useful. In the light of my earlier comments you will see why his design was all straight lines. I have also thought of using this as inspiration, but as I shall be installing one in a Truck Cab loadbay, with no tilt or hardtop, I will look to access it from alongside the vehicle, and thus put the hinge on the other side. Appropriate security and weatherproofing measures will be added. Regards.
  5. I have thought SGS good value; I was going to go for their stuff for a rebuild project, but then I didn't take on the job so haven't spent the money. https://www.sgs-engineering.com/garage-equipment/wheel-dollies Regards.
  6. That is incorrect. The BMW i3, and I am sure many other pure BEVs, have only one motor, in thiscase driving the rear wheels via a differential and unequal length drive shafts. I'm not sure about the 'motor per wheel' solution you advocate; it creates a terrific unsprung mass to control, but putting the electric motor output through 'standard' gearboxes is a recipie for inefficiency, therefore a waste of battery power. Gear trains get hot as power passes through them, the power taken to produce that heat comes from the power source, whether an IC engine or battery. Regards.
  7. Yes they do, I speak from the perspective of a BMW i3, 24 months / 11k miles into ownership. Picking up on other comments in this thread, the i3 will apply mechanical brakes under some circumstaces, to mirror the retardation given by regeneration, so the driver gets a consistant level of retardation from simply lifting the throttle pedal. This ensures the friction surfaces of the mechanical brakes are clean and ready for use. In the i3 it is possible to 'read' the dashboard display to keep the regeneration retardation below the level causing brake light illumination. Of course this depends on the driver correctly reading the road and traffic conditions, to manage safe travel within the limited regen braking they are permitting themselves. Not all EVs are the same, there can be a lot of sophistication beneath the skin, but some have more than others. It should come as no surprise to realise that simply lifting part of an EV drive train into another chassis and partial drive train is likely to leave the owner with something less than a full deck of cards. Regards.
  8. I understand some people have a Love & Hate relationship with their Defender. I also read some people have a Hate relationship with Britpart, (while others enjoy the benefits created by their pricing). This model has attributes which make it a supremely appropriate present, even if too late for Christmas day. It's styled after a 'traditional' Defender, it's Blue in colour, and it's signwritten Britpart. What better description than 'A Defender Stress Toy' ?? Someone has a sense of humour!! Happy New Year 🙂
  9. Does this help?(IE I do not know if it shows your type of (later) distributor). Courtesy of the Series 2 Club Technical Gallery. Regards.
  10. The standard arrangement, as others have said, is to put risers between the seat box and the seat rails. This allows you to set the rails further back on the risers so the standard adjustment in the rails pushes the seat base over the flange at the back of the seat box. Depending how much slope you put in the seat back, this can give you up to 5" of extra leg room compared to a fixed centre seat. I realise you have thrown your centre seat away, but when judging the change, that is how you make the comparison. Note that the foam resting on top of the back rest was inside the cover, at the very point it touches the window frame. The foam isn't doing anything now. Note also the absence of the upper back rest support bracket behind the drivers seat, the one you can see is for the centre seat. Note the comparison between the back rest pivots on the frame for the centre seat and the one on the drivers seat (which a PO has unwisely used as the seat buckle mounting point). Possibly to give you an impression of greater space I feel you have the backrest sloping back too much; this is also why 'the seat (back) is not able to rest onto the backrest support '. With the seat base moving further back, and the back rest more upright, (and possibly removing the upper back rest support) the back rest will rest against the window frame, not underneath it as it does now. An alternative way to gain more legroom is to increase height of the brackets containing the pivot for the backrest. You make new pivot hole holes and lift the backrest 2 or 3 inches. This leaves an unsightly gap between the rear edge of the seat cushion and the lower edge of the back rest cushion. It is into this space your pelvis goes; put another way, this space needs to be big enough for the belt of your trousers to go into, although this measurement criteria doesn't work if you wear trousers so low slung the crack in your backside is visible to others when you bend over. This modification works because as the pelvis moves backwards, so does the hip joint, which is the start point when it comes to measuring leg length while sitting down. The other advantages are that the standard seat base cushion effectively extends further forward under your thighs, and the back rest cushion effectively extends higher, giving more support to your shoulders. From another vehicle, the raised back rest pivot. The first is an overview, showing the size of the gap between the two cushions; also compare the heights of the tops of the backrests, the drivers seat raised against the standard centre and passenger seats. The second picture shows in clearer detail both the old and new pivot points in the modified seat base. Note that in this case the pivot point is both lifted AND moved back, and that NO risers are fitted underneath the seat rails, thus addressing your point about not wanting to raise the seat height. This information is from an old thread on the forum of the Series 2 Club. Regards.
  11. Just one caveat I will add to the 'no grease' chorus. This is based on the fact that the other two pins of the spider look greased. When there is one route in (the grease nipple) but four routes out (each pin), if the greaseway to one pin, or two pins, gets blocked with dirt or dried grease, then any new grease will easily pour out of the 2 or 3 pins still open, while the blocked pins get no lubrication at all. I'm saying it isn't enough to grease every 3, 6, or 12 months as the fancy takes you. Grease has to be seen to be forced past all four seals if you are to be certain each pin is getting new gease. I have seen it asserted that if the spider ends up pushed hard against one of the caps, this is enough to stop the grease flow. The apparent possible cure is to lightly hammer the opposite leg of the yoke towards the cap that isn't showing grease, then applying more grease to see if it will now flow. I've never been concious of this myself, so merely present it for consideration and comment. I understand some people don't like, on principle, dislodging a seal by forcing grease through it, but how else do you ensure each pin is being greased? Regards.
  12. What LR supplied technical information do you have available? Both the engine speed governor (Petrol engines only) and the hand throttle (standard with diesel engines, but could be fitted to petrol engines also) were optional extras, so you need to look in literature covering the optional extras (not the standard parts list) for details. The hand throttle was 'just' the quadrant, it relied on the governing mechanism in the high pressure pump to vary the diesel fuel flow, so keeping the engine speed constant. The petrol engine speed governor also had a speed control quadrant, but this worked in conjunction with the governor itself. The quadrant lifted engine speed by about 150 rpm per notch, while the governor looked to maintain the selected engine speed as the load varied. So no, the speed control quadrant did not 'also serve as a basic hand throttle' on a petrol engine (although the end result was the same as with the diesel engine, both quadrant and governor are required with the petrol engine). There is a specialist in the web who deals with LR Optional Equipment, he has the linked web site, and presences on Facebook and eBay.. Regards.
  13. I had to study this point in response to a mailing list query, where the enquirer wanted the door mirror to lift when reversing into his driveway. Reading the drivers handbook closely, when you set this up, you engage reverse then set the required position of the mirror, so the choice of lift or drop is down to the user. Thus there is no 'wrong' way. Regards
  14. I'm sorry, but your requests on here are confusing, or at best, lack clarity. Initially it made me wonder how clear you were about what you are doing or want to do. I've followed your link before making these comments. I've seen the pictures but only read some of the words. You have clearly done a lot of 'chassis' work so you have been clear about that aspect of the work. Terminology : I'm not sure you are reducing the 'overhang', which I would take to mean the distance between the rear axle and the rearmost cross member, or tail gate. Rather you intend to stretch the cab to give more legroom, and reduce the length of the tub, while maintaining the standard overall length of a 110. (I think). What are standard fuel tank positions? In a Series 2 or 3 109 there are three possible standard positions for a fuel tank. Under the drivers seat; Under the passenger seat; Under the rearmost end of the tub floor, thus behind the rear axle. There are variations: The underseat tanks can be filled by removing the seat cushion, then a metal cover, then unscrewing the tank cap. This is underseat fill. For the drivers side underseat tank the alternative standard fill point is just behind the trailing edge of the door. This is known as side fill. For the rear tank the standard fill point is again side fill, but with the filler positioned as pictured earlier in this thread. Your 110 appears to have a rear mounted tank, but you apparently want to fit a non-standard side fill, for reasons your haven't explained here. Pictures and appropriate comments, even if just copied from your Instagram account, will get you a better response here. Incidentally, I have a 109 with twin underseat tanks, but they are underseat fill, so I cannot provide you with the measurement you ask for; although I struggle to understand why you want a 'standard' dimension, when every thing around will be non-standard. Regards.
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