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David Sparkes

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David Sparkes last won the day on June 18

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About David Sparkes

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    The Diesel 38A,
    UK Narrow-boats,
    Carmichael FT6

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  1. My previous experience using the Aeon units was on older vehicles where the standard bump stops were solid rubber. I did not have extended bump stops on my 38A. I am aware the standard 38A bump stops are 'lightweight' versions of the style Timbren / Aeon use. My judgement is that what you need tends towards auxiliary springs, rather than simply longer bump stops (judging auxiliary springs to be stiffer than 'bump stops'). If I was browsing the Timbren catalogue I'd look under both headings, having first established a ballpark figure of how long the new spring ought to be to give the desired 'protection' to the bodywork when wheels are fitted with larger tyres. I think the standard 38A bump stops give minimal ride-ability if the EAS fails. I appreciate this doesn't affect your coil sprung car, but for EAS cars I'd see extended Timbren bump stops / auxiliary springs giving a better ride quality than standard in the event of EAS failure, although this might be at the expense of the low 'easy access' ride height afforded by the standard EAS set-up. 'Might be', I'm not certain, others would have to make that judgement after looking at a working car. Regards.
  2. You will find that the standard brass nuts for this purpose are longer than the equivalent steel nuts, to help avoid this 'easy' fail point. The other trick is to only use a standard open ended spanner as this limits the maximum torque you can apply. There are available on eBay UK 'double length' brass nuts, designed to cover all the exposed thread on the 'pipe to manifold' studs and so inhibiting corrosion of any exposed thread, which would otherwise damage the nut as it was forced over the corrosion. These may not be suitable for your 200TDi application, but Paddocks sell Brass Nuts for the S2 and S3 range. I know the Paddocks search function can be a little trying but it's easy to find these, simply search for 'Brass'!! Edited to add that the links already included will be for BS or UNF threads when I'm guessing the 200TDi is Metric. This eBay supplier included the option of M8 and M10 nuts, which might be more suitable. Regards.
  3. Models specific for a 38A, No. I have used extra length bump stops on two non Land Rover vehicles and was sufficiently impressed to keep the details of the supplying company. If I wanted to change the suspension of any vehicle in this way I would research them for a suitable product. http://www.rubber-suspension.com/ is the UK address. The specifications are held on an American website https://timbren.com/p-35857-aeon-springs.html You may recognise the name Aeon. Unfortunately their search engine doesn't recognise Land Rover or Range Rover. The units I used were of the double bellow design; although longer than the standard bump stops they did not operate in normal circumstances, but increased the spring rate as the suspension became more compressed. Even in extremis they retained some give, unlike the standard 'british' bump stop which is effectively solid, sending the spring rate sky high and instantly overloading the tyre. It was some years ago, but I found the UK rep to be helpful, and it may be better to route your research via him. I would expect to have to feed him the physical characteristics of the standard bump stops on a 38A. (Method of fixing, uncompressed length, uncompressed diameter, space available for the increased diameter of a compressed bump stop). Regards.
  4. A correction to my earlier post. Overnight I recalled that I had some private information on my PC, from earler conversations on the Forum of the Series 2 Club. This morning I checked my files, to find I have recorded ERC9453 as M16x1, not as stated earlier, which I drew from memory. The same folder recorded the information given in that conversation (but never validated by me) that LPG converters sell, for a couple of pounds, these spigots in both straight and 45 degreee configurations. I do not have a supply source. ERC 9453 as pictured by Blanchards, Craddocks, and John Richards. This image is dated Dec 2017 on my PC.
  5. Are you sure it's an Imperial thread? The blanking plug ERC9448 (from engine numbers 361236728, 36407286) is shown for the S3 and the Defender, which suggests to me it's Metric. The earlier blanking plug is 536577 and thus may be Imperial, this seems to be widely recognised as still valid for other purposes, such as a sump plug, so you should be able to 'prove' the thread if you don't have thread gauges.. Considering the similar heater spigot in the S2A 2.25 diesel was M17x1 I'd suggest it might be the same. 550827 is the number of the spigot shown in the supplement for the US spec machines (Heating & Ventilation section). The snag is I cannot find that part number accepted anywhere in the UK. However, following the 'US' lead, Rovers North show the 'Item Code' as 624091, and that number is recognised, and appropriately described, by UK based parts suppliers. The thread is not specified, I suggest it could well be metric, and therefore you need to be very certain that your engine has an Imperial thread, because if so this spigot may not fit. Regards. Update. Found the part shown twice in the S2A & S3 Options catalogue RTC9842CE. 624091 is shown as a BSP thread. ERC9453 is shown as a Metric thread. Sit down before you price this item, PA Blanchards seems like a good price. Both use washer 213960. Regards.
  6. I appreciate this yd83de58[1]
  7. OK, clearly more than one way to skin a cat, but I'll pick up on a couple of points if I may. This reads as though the spent media is being collected in the base of the cabinet. As a blast pot is being used this in-cabinet collection is not required. Remove any bung in the bottom of the cabinet and let the blast media fall straight though into an open collection bucket. Your extraction facility (motor, pipework, etc) should be good enough to ensure that only blast media heavy enough to be reused will fall out. The dust will be sucked out of the extraction vent. Side point here. The cabinet should be in negative pressure all the time it is in use; there should be no signs of dust being blown out past the viewing window, access door, or glove ports. A useful test of ventilation throughput is to leave the gloves crumpled up on the mesh floor. Switch on the extraction motor. The gloves should slowly uncrumple then stand horizontally, supporting their own weight. If the gloves snap to attention in a couple of seconds there is too much negative pressure, consideration should be given to increasing the size of the ventilation input hole. (The gloves stand horizontal because the atmospheric pressure inside the gloves is higher than the pressure on the outside of the gloves (inside the cabinet), caused by the extraction fan). I am familiar with this style of vacuum cleaner (made by Electrolux in my case), although not in this role. Ensure you remove all filters, both those as part of the normal dust collection elements on the input side AND any 'cleaned air output' section, after the motor. Filters will block, very rapidly. If the air passes over the motor as part of the motor cooling system then the motor will have to be left to take its chances. You will probably find the motor itself is sealed from household dust anyway, so absence of filters shouldn't be a problem. As it happens, I chanced on an upright 'beats as it sweeps as it cleans' vacuum cleaner. An instrinsic design feature is that the motor is out of the dust-laden air stream; only the impellor is washed by the dust passing through it, and boy, is the aluminium impeller shiny! I removed the beating roller, covered the hole with a sheet of 12mm MDF, making holes in the MDF to accommodate two smooth bore hoses, feeding these into the cabinet, ensuring the open ends pointed downwards, and were below the mesh floor. Thus the dust, flowing / falling downwards in the cabinet had to turn through180 degrees, anything too heavy failed the turn, thus continuing down and out of the cabinet. At the outlet of the vacuum cleaner I removed the handle, and the dust bag, using a circa 4" pipe to lead out of the workshop, through a vent normally specified for clothes driers. The vent is only ~18" above ground level, and far enough away from the garden boundaries, for neighbours not to experience dust laden air. Although I've thought of a water filter, I've never had to construct one. My thoughts were to duct the dust laden air over a water trough, letting gravity, perhaps assisted by a baffle or two, let the dust drop out of the airstream onto the water. An added refinement would be to duct the rainwater downpipe through the trough, thus ensuring any settled deposit is washed out of the trough. Regards.
  8. If it's steel & rust you are cleaning (not aluminium sheet, or glass) treat 60 psi as your minimum pressure, If it drops below that, stop work until the receiver fills to maximum pressure. Do not have any sort of filter on your 'hoover', the target is to maximise fresh air throughput; any filter will block with dust and restrict the flow. Ventilation to remove dust is an entrirely different subject to pressurised air carrying the blast media. Ensure you have a large hole to admit fresh air; ideally place this hole so the fresh air entering the cabinet washes over the inner face of the viewing window. Have the inlet to the extractor fan below the height of the mesh worktable; this will ensure the dust moves downwards away from the viewing window. Florist film is good the protect the viewing glass, but you still need to draw the dust away from the film. Grimy surfaces, and thick paint, absorb the energy in the grains of the blast media. Clean off as much as you can before putting the unit in the cabinet. Leaving thin paint is OK, it's the five coats of brushed on paint that need prior application of paint stripper. Regards.
  9. Under FTC3375, LRWorkshop show it as M12 x 1,25; 35 mm ; 20 mm thread; steel 10.9; double hex. (I would call the head 'bi-hex), but no matter). LRW also state the current number is SYP500090 and while that gets results from more suppliers, I haven't found one that mentions the thread form. You have managed to unscrew at least one, surely you can measure the pitch yourself (1.25mm)? If not, it's a good prompt to buy a thread pitch gauge. I see that under SYP500090 they are available as sets on eBay, but appear to be much more expensive per bolt than buying from a LR Supplier. Regards
  10. What is the LR part number of the bolt? Regards
  11. The link did work for me, using Windows 10 and Mozilla Firefox. Regards.
  12. I can see that the terminology is difficult. It seems that Draper (at least) call the 'non-electrical' versions 'impact screwdrivers'. I can't recall whose make I bought all those years ago, but I do agree with the advantages of the hammer blow giving positive engagement as well as the turning force. If you have had good service from a Draper version in the past then their range seems a good place to start. Once you have a part number you can use it to chase down the best price. This search seems to produce their range. Regards.
  13. My thoughts exactly. After my previous post I looked back at earlier posts from Polly123. The 38A was consistently referred to, as was the BECM, so it looks as though his vehicle is a 38A. As part of my earlier post I did some Google Search research, and this happened to turn up that Workshop manuals on CD for the 38A are now readily and cheaply available. Here and here are examples, I have not used either supplier. I used the search terms 'workshop manuals P38 cd', there were many other returns. Note that a list of parts will be another purchase; they don't come on the RAVE CDs. Regards.
  14. A 1994 model is now termed a Classic Range Rover, so all my comments regarding the later 38A model do not apply.. I can't advise the best place to find wiring diagrams. There may be paper versions around, although I can confirm there was a RAVE disc produced later that covered 'Archive' models, as they were called. This included the later versions of the Classic RR, as well as the Discovery 1 and the Freelander to model Year 01. Whether searching generally on eBay, Amazon, or independant LR suppliers, the key word to include in your search term is 'Brooklands' as they do the reprints that include 1994 and '95. I got no results that suggested Haynes books went to '94. The snag is the price; expect to be asked around £60 for for a new Brooklands reprint. I am assuming these 'Workshop Manuals' include the wiring diagrams. The term I used, ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual), came in with the RAVE CDs, and the 38A Range Rover. Perhaps there are people on here who have bought copies in the past. Regards.
  15. I guess you are asking about a 38A, post 1995 RR. I suspect the button has failed electrically, or perhaps the wiring in the tailgate. I don't know how you opened the tailgate manually from the inside (what year is your vehicle?) but I think you are going to have to remove the trim on the tailgate to fault the electrical circuit or button. The alternative is a wiring fault before the tailgate is reached, and a fault here may also affect the fuel filler flap. I'd say that normally this wouldn't affect the immobiliser,but I seem to recall the power to the tailgate comes via the drivers door lock switches. Have you checked the RAVE ETM wiring diagrams for which fuses are used, and whether any connection plugs are common to both circuits? Regards.
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