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David Sparkes

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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David Sparkes last won the day on January 18 2016

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About David Sparkes

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    David.Sparkes6

Profile Information

  • Location
    Derbyshire

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    The Diesel 38A,
    UK Narrow-boats,
    Carmichael FT6

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. David Sparkes

    Series 2a door seals

    This one, in the International Forum.
  2. David Sparkes

    Series 2a door seals

    Just to confirm, from the Series 2 Club forum, this feature of these seals is often commented on. Doesn't help much, but just confirming that your experience is not unusual. Read these threads: Door seal on a roll, Door Seal technique, Regards.
  3. David Sparkes

    range rover classic parts catolouge

    Ummm ... The OP is looking for a PARTS manual, not a Workshop manual; but I agree the Range Rover forum would be a more natural home for the query 🙂 It was only his twenty-first post, so we should cut him some slack !! Regards.
  4. David Sparkes

    Fuel filler extension tube gauze repair

    Almost, and Yes. The Carmichael FT6, with its custom bodywork, didn't have an extension tube, because despite being side fill there wasn't space inside the vehicle for the straight run of pipe necessary to 'absorb' the extension. I decided to make one, even though I would have to carry it outside the tank, and therefore susceptible to attracting dirt. I used a 7cm tea strainer from Wilkos for the gauze. This turned out to be a suitable diameter and also preformed into the essential convex shape. As stated earlier, there are different designs of the filler neck and therefore extension tube. Mine happened to need three pips on the tube, to engage in three bayonet slots in the filler neck. There isn't need to go further with describing the construction as you already have the extension tube. Regarding attaching and sealing a new gauze to solid pipe ... Later on I made a long tubular metal gauze filter to go inside the standard Jerrycan. This was attached to the widely available alloy extension filler pipe so it was transferable from Jerrycan to Jerrycan. As you might imagine, this took a little more fabrication. The filter had to be long and tubular to get a suitable filter area, but also mishapen to get round the deflector plate that is an essential part of the true NATO spec Jerrican. The gauze in this case came from a 20cm kitchen strainer, also from the Wilko range. The essential sealing, to ensure all the fuel went through the mesh, was provided by Sugra. There are no pictures of this device. Both units have been tested as part of the build process, but have not been extensively used on the road; there hasn't been the need. I use diesel fuel, so cannot vouch for use with petrol. Regards
  5. David Sparkes

    Testing 12V batteries

    Given your test results, I'd be suspicious about them actually performing as required in their Server UPS function. I'd be asking how long they are expected to run the servers for. Are they actually expected to run the servers, to maintain sevice, or are they just to provide the ability the power an automatic controlled shutdown, without losing data, immediately the mains goes off? Dependant on the answers I'd be suggesting an in-service test is performed to test if they can actually provide the service required. Make sure a failed test doesn't leave you with a totally collapsed system. Also consider that the in-service charging system isn't working very well (low voltage leading to insufficient charging). Regards.
  6. David Sparkes

    Monobolt sizes

    Does this count as a cross post, or simply a plea to be 'loved', at least a little bit 🙂 I posted this on Tuesday at midday into the Defender Forum, and by Saturday morning there have been 75 views but no responses, so I thought I'd try here. Realising that Monobolts are superior blind or self-setting rivets I want to size the ones LR used. These appeared to come into favour during the Defender era, which directed the post to the Defender forum. I typed 'Monobolt' into the LRWorkshop site to develop the following list, where the part numbers are current, but clearly originated in different eras. Some might be partially sized if we assume the numbering scheme matches that of Leyland era bolts and screws, but even so, that's a 'best guess' and it would be nice to be certain. Do 'you' already have some of these in stock, but unused, that you would be willing to measure, please? (I sized AFU 1350 on that basis). Does someone already have a list that is crying out for the oxygen of publicity? The last resort is buying one of each, but I thought I'd ask first 🙂 AFU1298 BYG500140 AFU1841 ACU1762 ACU3777 AFU1843 3/16 dia AFU1350 1/4" x 9/16" VYG500060 1/4" Regards,
  7. David Sparkes

    Rattler and son 1971 S11a swb Restoration

    Here I'm mainly repeating observations by someone who did similar, but also using my experience of cleaing a trailer of sand and crushed stone. With anything other than a smooth surface it's almost impossible to sweep the area clean, which means there are always bits to shake loose and be distributed into the door / tailgate seal, making life difficult for the hinges (and the operator) when closing the door or tailgate. If the aim of the chequer was to inhibit free movement of 'load', without having to bother strapping it down, I'd wonder out load if the solution would work as expected. If the aim was to enable easier movement of load due to reduced surface area contact, again I'd question if that actually helps. I'd expect engagement and jamming when you don't want it, as in positioning the load, but for the jamming restraint to be ineffective when the vehicle is travelling. Also, have you compared the price of chequer plate, of whatever style of chequer, with the price of flat aluminium? (Other load floor covering materials are available). Regards.
  8. David Sparkes

    Series 2a clutch

    Pictures, apart from the first, taken from the Technical Library section of the Series 2 Club. Paddocks S2A clutch plate incl spacer. 2A clutch release, inside bellhousing. Clutch slave cylinder mounting showing space for 'possibly' missing spacer. Regards
  9. David Sparkes

    Monobolt sizing

    Realising that Monobolts are superior blind or self-setting rivets I want to size the ones LR used. These appeared to come into favour during the Defender era, which directs the post to this forum. I typed 'Monobolt' into the LRWorkshop site to develop the following list, where the part numbers are current, but clearly originated in different eras. Some might be partially sized if we assume the numbering scheme matches that of Leyland era bolts and screws, but even so, that's a 'best guess' and it would be nice to be certain. Do 'you' already have some of these in stock, but unused, that you would be willing to measure, please? (I sized AFU 1350 on that basis). Does someone already have a list that is crying out for the oxygen of publicity? The last resort is buying one of each, but I thought I'd ask first 🙂 AFU1298 BYG500140 AFU1841 ACU1762 ACU3777 AFU1843 3/16 dia AFU1350 1/4" x 9/16" VYG500060 1/4" Regards,
  10. David Sparkes

    Spare wheel query

    If you have a Series 3 it is most likely it has M16 studs, so you can try a wheel nut on your spare wheel retaining rod. If you have a Series 2 or 2A it was probably fitted with the smaller 9/16 studs, with a BSF thread, BUT the hubs may have been updated by a PO fitting M16 studs. Inspection is the only way to tell. Regards.
  11. David Sparkes

    P38 earth lead

    According to RAVE the earth connection to the engine is E500, and appears to be low down on the RH front corner, that is, the corner of the engine nearest the battery. Again, there is a picture in RAVE. I suspect this general location (low down on the RH front corner of the engine) is the same for both Petrol or Diesel engines. Regards.
  12. David Sparkes

    P38 earth lead

    Interesting. As no-one else had accepted the challenge I started looking at RAVE. I translated your 'offside rear of the engine bay' to 'LH rear of engine compartment' and found that the description 'LH rear of engine compartment near Air Valve Block' is shared by E148 and E149L, using connectors C148 and C149L. There is a picture of this connection point in RAVE, so you can check that I have made the appropriate deduction. The snag, from your point of view, is that it doesn't show or specify where to other ends of the cables go to. Following your thoughts about 'engine related' I looked in the wiring diagram for the V8 to find E148 is associated with the ABS ECU, while E149L is also used for the ABS Boost unit if the vehicle is LHD. I've assumed yours is RHD. I then looked at the wiring diagram for the Diesel and got the same results. I moved on to the 'Anti–Lock Brake System ECU (Z108)'. Part of the Circuit Operation preamble says: The Anti–Lock Brake System ECU (Z108) also has diagnostic capabilities that allow it to detect faults that may impair the system’s efficiency. If a fault occurs, the ECU informs the operator of a problem by illuminating the ABS or the ETC warning light. The ECU also illuminates the warning light when the ignition is first placed in position II. The ABS warning light will remain illuminated until the ECU completes a self check of the system. When the ECU sees all wheels reach a speed of 7 km/h (5 mph), the self check is completed and the ABS warning light turns off. If a fault is detected during the self check, the ABS or the ETC warning light will remain on and a fault code will be stored in memory to aid in servicing the system. When an ABS fault has been detected, the message ABS FAULT may also display. The fault code can be retrieved using a diagnostic tester. Note it says nothing about inhibiting engine start, and as the vehicle has to achieve 5mph to complete the self check then just illuminating the light would allow the engine to start. However, the description doesn't cover there being no earth to complete the test circuit, so in that respect all bets are off. When you switch on the ignition is the ABS warning light illuminated? Time to start again, and revisit your comments. You say 'fixed to the lip of the bulkhead'. This initially implied to me that there are wires connected to the Earth Point. Again, do check the diagram in RAVE. However, your comment 'Can anyone tell me where it goes from and where it goes to?' suggests this may not be the case, and you just have an earth lead folded neatly away. Can you clarify this point please? It may be an earth lead from some other componant, going to a different earth point on the body shell, but I'm not going to guess any further. Regards.
  13. David Sparkes

    Militant history

    A vote here for FMW Freelance Military Writers. Regards.
  14. David Sparkes

    Advice needed re noise from propshaft/gearbox

    What fragile metal clips? I've looked through two different presentations of Selectro Installation instructions, which have included an exploded diagram of the parts, and cannot identify the parts you describe. Again, a clear picture would help. Regards.
  15. David Sparkes

    Advice needed re noise from propshaft/gearbox

    There are different makes of FWH, and as you might imagine the mechanisms inside the covers are different. If you tell us the name or initials on yours we may be able to sort you out with the appropriate instructions. A photograph of the covers may also help (a picture of the 'covered in grease' parts probably isn't as helpful). Regards.
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