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David Sparkes

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David Sparkes last won the day on January 18 2016

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About David Sparkes

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    Derbyshire

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    The Diesel 38A,
    UK Narrow-boats,
    Carmichael FT6

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  1. Have you assembled those 'dry', without any lubricant between the leaves? Regards.
  2. Looking at a Series 2A Parts list 605957 dated Dec '68, together with a 'locker 210204', your 250693 is a 1/4" BSF x 5/8" Set Bolt used for 'Fixing stop to selector shaft', that is, it's part of the gearbox. For the S2A there are two sizes of screws used with the swivel seal retainer, 10 of them are 1/4" BSF x 1/2", part number 237139, the other 2 are 250696, again 1/4" BSF; the length is not specified, but they are longer because they are the lock stop, so have to accomodate the lock nut. Given the need to hold the lock nut, and have some thread to spare, I'd estimate a length of 1". 250696 has changed part number to SH404081, both LR Series & Craddocks confirm the sizing at 1/4 BSF x 1" long. Double checking, the S3 parts list the swivel seal retaining screws as a combination of 250693 and SH404081, so I'm guessing it's a S3 list you are looking at. This is not my area of interest, it's just that I have to have the information as many S3 parts have been used as S2A part alternatives. Regards
  3. Based on what I read in the Forum of the Series 2 Club*, those that have the experience tend to cite local stockists they have found but this is mainly UK. As I rarely buy from nut and bolt stockists I haven't paid much attention. There again, I'm clearly not as prolific as you are, when it comes to work output. Writing this, I recall I have seen Namrick mentioned several times, in a positive vein. I have used them myself in the dim and distant past. They would meet your 'known brand / quality' criteria. As a side note, if you find on here the facility that enables you to interpret the BL era parts numbering system you can build up quite a table of LR Nuts, Screws, Washers, and Bolts, which of course you can use for 'custom' purposes. * Series 2 Club Forum. You don't have to be a member of the club to use the Forum, although there are 'Member only' sections. There are several Forum users who declare residence in Australia; if you posted your question (including the Custom requirement) you may get a response that reflects related experince from others on the same continent. Regards.
  4. You have posted in the Series Forum, so I presume that identifies the era of your vehicle. The safest source (most likely to be the correct size and fitment) is LR Fasteners (http://www.landrover-parts.net/). You can buy multiple individual items, but do note that they will do sets of fasteners for the whole vehicle, and those who have used them say they are well worth the additional cost involved as they come bagged and labelled. It seems to be a case of the quality being remembered well after the cost has been forgotten. I believe they may do sets for 'sub-assemblies' (say swivel assemblies, or a rear axle) but you would have to confirm details with the proprietor. I also understand he is more amenable to phone calls than emails, but given your location that may not be suitable for you. If you want a wider view of possible suppliers, put part numbers into LR Workshop (https://www.lrworkshop.com/). You may need to be aware of any updated part number to get full use of this site. While direct searches on LR Series and Craddocks web sites can be the useful in converting from 'obsolete old' to current, do be aware that the translations may take into account easy availability, rather than the direct equivalent. Regards.
  5. In what might be a perverse way, I'm rather glad I don't know what a 'jacksie outrigger' is, so feel I'm spared from making a considered comment about the rest of the vehicle. Regards
  6. You probably won't detect a code pattern, LR seemed to allocate numbers in an almost random pattern, probably based on a particular assembly rather than the physical characteristics of the Nut, Screw, Washer, or Bolt. This started with the Series 1, and was then expanded into the Series II, then IIA, etc. Numbers only started to be rationalised once LR stopped being LR and became part of BMC, British Leyland, etc. And yes, anything that isn't a BA size is intended to be high tensile. A little depends on where you are coming from, and what the desired outcome is. Are you looking through original parts manuals, using the often 6 digit number to then identify the physical characteristics so you can buy from a nut & bolt stockist? Or are you happy to convert the 6 digit number to a modern equivalent number so you can order from a LR specialist? In the latter case knowing the physical characteristics is more a 'nice to know' rather than essential, as you have to trust the LR stockist has got the conversion correct. Perhaps your location of Gold Coast, Australia, influences your approach, but I can only comment on UK experience. Overall it is often cheaper to buy any specialist bolts from an LR stockist; they will be geared to handle orders of small quantities, even one or two (although LR Dealers will often only sell in multiples of 5). A mainstream nut and bolt stockist will want to sell by the box, especially for oddball sizes such as BSF. The recommendation to use LRSeries to get a physical description is good, although not infallible they are probably better than the rest. Britcar can also be useful in this regard. Craddocks is the most likely site to recognise an obsolete number and give you a modern equivalent. Regard none of them as infallible. The other site that will always recognise an old number, but just tell you it's use and price, is LR Fasteners. Again, not infallible; sometimes the use you want it for is not what they list (but you may well be correct, a fastener may serve more than one purpose). LR Fasteners will sell you a kit for a complete vehicle, bagged and labelled, and I understand they will sell kits for complete assemblies, although I haven't availed myself of the opportunity. I also understand he prefers to talk on the phone rather than use email, but you can only ask if exceptions can be made, given your location and Time Zone. Expect to pay for the service, those who have paid sing about the convenience, regarding the price as a temporary hiccup. Regards.
  7. I have not done what you are about to do, but two things have stuck in my memory, from reading the exploits of others. I mention them because they might apply to your wife's vehicle. The metal wedges the rear engine mounts are bolted too are handed, be careful not to inadvertantly swap them. (The 'gear box mounts' are named rear engine mounts in the LR Parts book). There is an optional extra, an engine steady rod, which runs fore and aft, joining the gearbox to a cross member. This was normally specified with the heavy duty cooling fan. It also stops the assembly moving forward when the handbrake is applied, so giving an apparent increase in handbrake efficiency (the lever doesn't have to move as much). Regards.
  8. Hmmm, this can't sound anything but negative, to me anyway. Simple statement first, I don't know of a source where you can instantly download Parts Manuals in a single indexed PDF, or multiple PDFs. You might be better off taking a printed manual and scanning each page individually, combining related pages into a single PDF using a programme such as PDFTK builder. That might sound time consuming, not to say boring, but wait until you read the rest!! With the Series 2 being up to 60 years old 'anything' could have been fitted by Previous Owners or mechanics. In my opinion you therefore need the S3 parts list as well (at least), just so you can stand a chance of identifying later parts. There used to be Technical Literature CDs titled : LHP19 S1 LHP20 S2 LHP21 S2A LHP22 S3 LHP23 88 Half Ton ,68-,84 LHP24 101 '75 -'78 LHP25 DefXmod pub'89 LHP26 90, 110, 127, 83-89. It's the LHPxx number you are looking for on eBay etc, and the gotcha is that the S2 and S2A are more or less identical, although I always go straight to the S2A listing. All these CDs (I use the term loosely, some may be DVDs) had a security system installed, such that you needed the disc in the drive, even if you had copied all the files, in its native structure, onto your hard drive. Nowadays the full range is combined on one DVD, although I've never bought one, as I have the full range bought as individual discs. This single DVD is expensive (as were the CDs bought separately brand new). This may motivate you to an alternative route. This link will give you the part numbers of the current Technical Publication CDs, and will lead you to a description of what each one contains. They appear to list USB versions as well as 'Disk' versions. I don't know what security they have built in, and crucially what impact it has on performance. The original version was dire, as was the built in index, but that was done by a different organisation. It was possible to break the original security system so that each PDF file could be read by a standard Reader. However, you then need to create your own Index (I used MS Excel with hyperlinks from the cell that described a particular PDF). For an example, the LHP21 S2A CD has properties of Size on disk: 708 MB (743,231,488 bytes); Contains: 389 Files, 33 Folders. Each file has to be indexed and hyperlinked in your spreadsheet. The LHP22 S3 CD has properties of: Size on disk: 299 MB (313,937,920 bytes); Contains: 125 Files, 16 Folders Alternatively you go through each file and give it a Descriptive File Name that reflects its contents; then you don't need an index as such, you merely read the list of files in File Explorer, or whatever file management you use. A snag here is that individuals use different terms to describe the same thing, so what makes sense to me doesn't make sense to you. If you have done any Google searching (other search engines are available) you will know that half the battle is choosing the most appropriate search terms. This also afflicts eBay searches. Experience in either of these two programmes will illustrate my point. Using 'someone elses' indexing can be frustrating. Like I said, perhaps more negative than positive, but at least you hopefully have a better overview of the situation. Having read my solutions, ideas, and suggestions perhaps you or someone else can create a 'better' system. Regards.
  9. As I understand it, and this was gained a long time ago from either CCC or Performance Car, a flexible hose will always try and straighten out when pressurised. This gave a longer pedal. This isn't so noticeable at the pedal with the standard short pipes, but it can become noticeable when long runs are involved, especially if they route round 'many' corners, as on a road car. The advice I recall was given as 'not advised' on a tarmac competition car due to the longer brake pedal that resulted, as the flexible pipe 'adjusted' its position. I can see the argument that a competion car can have a customised pipe routing, with less bends than a road car, but the standards of performance are set much higher. The advice I recall would have been written before ABS became the norm. I really wouldn't like to guess the effect of full length flexible pipes on a larger car with high frequency ABS. SS hoses never make it easier to fault find on a brake system, as you cannot isolate one axle or wheel from the system. I think you are at risk of comparing apples with pears by comparing a Mini (BMC?) with a D2; a difference amplified by comparing a road car with a competition car, and the differences in service intervals over mileage covered. Regards.
  10. That workshop manual diagram you show doesn't go with the 52mm box spanner you are messing about with. Your 52mm spanner is used on the nut shown in the background of your drawing; the 52 mm nut is not numbered in that diagram. The locking washer that gets folded over is to hold that nut in the background. The washer is not in the diagram. The 52mm nut is not torqued up tightly in service. It should be tightened during the installation process, as reasurance the bearing is properly seated, but then released to give running clearance to the hub bearings. The only requirement to apply a lot of torque to the 52mm nut is because a previous owner (or mechanic) hasn't understood how the complete assembly works and severely overtightened the nut. Once you have corrected that error you only need the torque supplied by a firm hand grip on the box spanner. Use of protective glooves is optional, although I would always recommend wiping grease off both the spanner and your hand. Regards.
  11. That's interesting, and I'm glad I held back, because I'd anticipated that those holes would whistle. Perhaps it's because they are holes into a box section, and taking most of the width of the box so there is no maintained air flow after it separates on the sharp edge. Regards.
  12. You are correct, I saw the word 'axle' but ignored the word 'stub'!! Looking at the Stub Axle page of the same catalogue I can see various stub axles mentioned, including two for the V8 engined vehicles, but no specific bolts. However, only one gasket is mentioned (277289) which suggests the same bolt diameter and spacing was used for all options. Looking at an earlier catalogue the bolts were 3/8" BSF x 1", 237339. Again, widely available. Regards
  13. The initial look, in parts catalogue RTC 9841 CE of June 1988, suggests nothing special for the V8 engined vehicle 576521 (10 off) and 576522 (2 off). These part numbers were as specified for the reinforced axle on the S2A. The original spec was 3/8" BSF diameter, 1+3/8" for the 10, and 1+1/2" for the 2. The 2 had extra length to cater for the steering stops. If you need the nuts as well (Locking BSF) these are 50526. As an aside, the same RTC 9841 CE catalogue does reference different hubs for the V8, which suggests the catalogue would have shown V8 parts for the swivel, had any been specified. These bolts are listed in the Axle section, rather than the Steering section. I have no doubt that some people successfully use 10mm High Tensile bolts if BSF isn't economically available. In the UK, all numbers are viable with 'many' suppliers, but I did note that the longer bolts were slightly cheaper than the shorter ones, although you should check this with your favourite reliable UK supplier. I also noticed some eBay adverts for full sets of 12, which may be less money. Regards.
  14. Thanks for your interest; mine is definately the begineers version, but probably ideally suited to this begineer !! Even at this early stage I can see a large amount of related equipment, including static items like fabricated support pieces, will arrive. How much equipment will probably be related to how much work I find to do. Regards.
  15. Although I had forgotten about them, when revisited, as ever, the Really Useful Boxes site contains a bewildering multitude of ideas - well, I can never decide what will be most useful to me!! That stand is made of 3mm steel plate; bolted together it is seriously heavy, designed for the job, and I am not sure I want to reinvent that wheel. Having said that, I have realised that when the traversing table is taken into account, the width required in the workshop is more than it first appears. When I come to finally install it I may fit a wide worktop between the base and the stand. This will be wide enough the 'reserve' the space required for the traversing table. Add some sides to suit, then shelves under the worktop, (between the new sides and the stand), and I will have regained some of my storage space. Despite the angled sides of the metal stand, it will be better organised and utilised than the 'stuff piled on stuff on the floor' that exists at the moment. What I have found is some older examples of the 5 drawer Leitz Post Set. I had saved these when another office was re-equiping some years ago. They were initially re-purposed to store phone, electricity, and gas bills, but being more than 5 years old I've now placed those into recycling. The cages of these post sets are just too tall to go straight in the upper section, but as the opening is smaller than the internal dimensions, because of the flange on the top plate, simply removing 4 of the 6 bolts enables me to flex the shelf down slightly, insert the post set, then re-insert the bolts. I know they don't use the full depth of the stand, but there is enough tray storage to be going on with. Due to the internal design of the cage, the 2" high drawers can be stacked directly above one another, (but not resting on each other). Removing one drawer and re-arranging the others gets my two 2" high drawers and two 3" high drawers. I reckon it's pretty difficult to find something better, especially from my redundant stock. Sometimes harbouring 'stuff' pays off (fortunately)!! Thanks for the ideas and suggestions, although not used directly they have promoted thought, producing beneficial ideas. What's that slogan 'Shared ideas, independent minds'? Whatever happened to those promotional stickers? Regards
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