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David Sparkes

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by David Sparkes

  1. OK, looking at the RAVE ETM for a 1995 Disco1 I didn't get it quite correct. The cable size IS shown, just not the strand size and quantity. The size is given as '6.0'. The fusible link through which power is supplied is rated at 60A. I didn't find the 6.0 quantified anywhere, but I'd say 6 square mm, for the conductors, not the cable OD, including insulation. The OP says no timer relay is fitted, but just for clarity the same size cable is used both to feed power into the timer unit, and to feed power out to the plugs (the wire colour code is different, of course). Regards.
  2. Surely the answer is in any LR wiring diagram for a vehicle which LR fitted with a 300TDi? This isn't my era, so I believe I don't have such diagrams to hand, but post Series 3 LR diagrams do tend to carry cable sizes, in terms of the number and diameter of individual strands. I suppose that comment does betray my inclination to think that appropriate wiring diagrams are an essential element of a vehicle maintenance tool kit. Regards.
  3. Yes, don't look a gift horse in the mouth, it might bite. I don't think you are the cautious type, but as you have gone to the trouble of composing your argument, print it out, laminate it, file it in the car. If you do upset a police officer and questions are asked, just produce your pre-prepared statement. They are only human and are highly likely to look for easier targets. They might preserve face by issuing a stern 'don't let me see you again', at which point you play the game, keep the smirk from your face, and drive off quietly into the sunset. Regards.
  4. Did the 'sparky*' just take out the allen key stub, or the grub screw as well? *If no-one else smiles, I did 🙂
  5. 🙂 You are asking for recommendations, to conform to that request, I recommend you ensure the diameter of the wheels 'matches' the roughness of the ground cover, concrete, tarmac, etc. If they don't 'match' you quickly find out how heavy a fully stocked mobile tool store is, as you lift it over the bumps! Regards.
  6. That's a pleasant change. Just one thing to confirm please, do you mean the actual LR franchised Dealer, or a private specialist, as say DLS is, in this part of the world? To me, Dealers means the LR Franchised establishments, with posh showrooms and free drinks with biscuits to support. In my early 38A days (1999+2) I was active in the 38A private owners world (it was quite small) and I found that the Nottingham dealer, amongst others, didn't charge. Later on it seemed, through Forum and Mailing List reports, that Dealers were charging. Perhaps now, with the 38A world diminishing, and most of them being in private hands rather than being funded by Business expenses, Dealers find it a small loss leader worth incurring to encourage owners to keep in contact. Anyway, thanks for the update.
  7. I thought that indicators flashing 3 times was one of the visual signals that the car was locked. The implication here is that the car doesn't know you are trying the enter the EKA; rather the car is seeing you simply locking the car. I have forgotten how the car knows you are entering the EKA, do you have a hard copy of the Owners handbook? Or the RAVE documentation? I would expect any Dealer to charge you to supply the factory EKA, but it is only valid for the original BECM, the factory EKA will not be valid if the BECM has been replaced. I do not know the capabilities of modern diagnostic equipment; if you don't get a clear positive steer on here then you will have to ask your local specialists about the capabilities of the equipment they use. Regards.
  8. Locks carry no electronics, just the mechanical latch and the microswitches, so yes, it can just be fitted. 'Just' might be a little misleading, I recall having some difficulty in manouvering the new one into place, but otherwise it's just fit and connect up. As always, take notes about where the wires went before you pull them off. If your wing indicator repeaters flashed then your car is slightly different to mine, perhaps because its a 4.6 not a 2.5. Again, IIRC, you can stop the EKA process part way through and it doesn't count as a failed attempt, which is useful wrt the totting up procedure of too many failed attempts causing a lock-out. Regards.
  9. Arjan beat me by a few minutes, the only difference is the owners manual I was reading gave the colour as 'mauve'. (Owners Manual S3 1981 - 1985). Regards.
  10. IIRC, it's been a few years, the indicator repeaters in the dash display flash on every successful lock movement. I say 'flash', they illuminate once, then go dark until the next lock movement is registered. Viewing at an angle, and through the tinted glass, I found it difficult to see reliably if they illuminated. If I understand correctly, the key will open the drivers door, and you can switch the ignition on. Do this, and wind the drivers door window fully down. Now vacate the car, close the door and lock it with the key. Now start the EKA, with your head in the window opening. Make deliberate actions and ensure the key is fully turned. Between each turn, restore the key to the vertical position and pause there before turning the key again. Count out loud when the light illuminates; it's even better if there is a second person with you to confirm the correct code is being entered. Failing microswitches are common, the lock, with the switches, might seem expensive, but there are only two means of entry (until you start breaking glass, or forcing the window frame), the remote and the drivers door lock. If a microswitch fails the remote cannot be reset, so access is wholly dependant on the single mechanical lock. If (when) the security system coughs, a failed microswitch completely buggers you up. If a microswitch fails, buy and fit a new lock. This week, not when you get paid, or when there is time in your schedule, but now. Any other course of action means your are playing russian roulette. You can only get away with it for so long.
  11. No I hadn't 🙂 I wonder if it is a conversion especially requested by the driver, or the production company., or just happenstance? Perhaps either the clutch was felt to be too heavy for the repeated stop / start use, or might lead to too much jerky movement for the filming, or probable interuptions to speech delivery. Regards.
  12. With the comment 'Warranty void if label removed' I'd think it was an aftermarket supplied replacement, not a LR supplied item. If I'm correct it means that it isn't a LR number. Sorry, but I have no advice on what 'better' alternative to fit. Regards.
  13. OK, but I'm happier to have passed it on, and be pushed back, rather than done nothing. I am aware that an Eberspacher is not a 'nearly new tractor'. Regards
  14. Just what might be a serendipitous post. On the UKLRO Mailing List over the last couple of days there has been an exchange about these heating systems, the quoted post came in today. The writer I am going to quote works away from home, both home and work are in the wilds of Scotland, where it is often 'sensible' to sleep overnight in his Ambulance, at his place of work. From his other posts he comes across as a very resourceful and practical individual, who not only works well with his hands, but also with his head. I wouldn't lightly set his advice aside. Regards.
  15. I cannot squeak about the Defender, but on the Series 2A 109 the famous 'barrel curve' only exists on the outside. Inside the tub there is the straight but angled stiffener dropping down from the capping. If you are being inspired by the earlier design, the latest mention I find by the maker dates from 2011, then perhaps a view of that product will be useful. In the light of my earlier comments you will see why his design was all straight lines. I have also thought of using this as inspiration, but as I shall be installing one in a Truck Cab loadbay, with no tilt or hardtop, I will look to access it from alongside the vehicle, and thus put the hinge on the other side. Appropriate security and weatherproofing measures will be added. Regards.
  16. I have thought SGS good value; I was going to go for their stuff for a rebuild project, but then I didn't take on the job so haven't spent the money. https://www.sgs-engineering.com/garage-equipment/wheel-dollies Regards.
  17. That is incorrect. The BMW i3, and I am sure many other pure BEVs, have only one motor, in thiscase driving the rear wheels via a differential and unequal length drive shafts. I'm not sure about the 'motor per wheel' solution you advocate; it creates a terrific unsprung mass to control, but putting the electric motor output through 'standard' gearboxes is a recipie for inefficiency, therefore a waste of battery power. Gear trains get hot as power passes through them, the power taken to produce that heat comes from the power source, whether an IC engine or battery. Regards.
  18. Yes they do, I speak from the perspective of a BMW i3, 24 months / 11k miles into ownership. Picking up on other comments in this thread, the i3 will apply mechanical brakes under some circumstaces, to mirror the retardation given by regeneration, so the driver gets a consistant level of retardation from simply lifting the throttle pedal. This ensures the friction surfaces of the mechanical brakes are clean and ready for use. In the i3 it is possible to 'read' the dashboard display to keep the regeneration retardation below the level causing brake light illumination. Of course this depends on the driver correctly reading the road and traffic conditions, to manage safe travel within the limited regen braking they are permitting themselves. Not all EVs are the same, there can be a lot of sophistication beneath the skin, but some have more than others. It should come as no surprise to realise that simply lifting part of an EV drive train into another chassis and partial drive train is likely to leave the owner with something less than a full deck of cards. Regards.
  19. I understand some people have a Love & Hate relationship with their Defender. I also read some people have a Hate relationship with Britpart, (while others enjoy the benefits created by their pricing). This model has attributes which make it a supremely appropriate present, even if too late for Christmas day. It's styled after a 'traditional' Defender, it's Blue in colour, and it's signwritten Britpart. What better description than 'A Defender Stress Toy' ?? Someone has a sense of humour!! Happy New Year 🙂
  20. Does this help?(IE I do not know if it shows your type of (later) distributor). Courtesy of the Series 2 Club Technical Gallery. Regards.
  21. The standard arrangement, as others have said, is to put risers between the seat box and the seat rails. This allows you to set the rails further back on the risers so the standard adjustment in the rails pushes the seat base over the flange at the back of the seat box. Depending how much slope you put in the seat back, this can give you up to 5" of extra leg room compared to a fixed centre seat. I realise you have thrown your centre seat away, but when judging the change, that is how you make the comparison. Note that the foam resting on top of the back rest was inside the cover, at the very point it touches the window frame. The foam isn't doing anything now. Note also the absence of the upper back rest support bracket behind the drivers seat, the one you can see is for the centre seat. Note the comparison between the back rest pivots on the frame for the centre seat and the one on the drivers seat (which a PO has unwisely used as the seat buckle mounting point). Possibly to give you an impression of greater space I feel you have the backrest sloping back too much; this is also why 'the seat (back) is not able to rest onto the backrest support '. With the seat base moving further back, and the back rest more upright, (and possibly removing the upper back rest support) the back rest will rest against the window frame, not underneath it as it does now. An alternative way to gain more legroom is to increase height of the brackets containing the pivot for the backrest. You make new pivot hole holes and lift the backrest 2 or 3 inches. This leaves an unsightly gap between the rear edge of the seat cushion and the lower edge of the back rest cushion. It is into this space your pelvis goes; put another way, this space needs to be big enough for the belt of your trousers to go into, although this measurement criteria doesn't work if you wear trousers so low slung the crack in your backside is visible to others when you bend over. This modification works because as the pelvis moves backwards, so does the hip joint, which is the start point when it comes to measuring leg length while sitting down. The other advantages are that the standard seat base cushion effectively extends further forward under your thighs, and the back rest cushion effectively extends higher, giving more support to your shoulders. From another vehicle, the raised back rest pivot. The first is an overview, showing the size of the gap between the two cushions; also compare the heights of the tops of the backrests, the drivers seat raised against the standard centre and passenger seats. The second picture shows in clearer detail both the old and new pivot points in the modified seat base. Note that in this case the pivot point is both lifted AND moved back, and that NO risers are fitted underneath the seat rails, thus addressing your point about not wanting to raise the seat height. This information is from an old thread on the forum of the Series 2 Club. Regards.
  22. Just one caveat I will add to the 'no grease' chorus. This is based on the fact that the other two pins of the spider look greased. When there is one route in (the grease nipple) but four routes out (each pin), if the greaseway to one pin, or two pins, gets blocked with dirt or dried grease, then any new grease will easily pour out of the 2 or 3 pins still open, while the blocked pins get no lubrication at all. I'm saying it isn't enough to grease every 3, 6, or 12 months as the fancy takes you. Grease has to be seen to be forced past all four seals if you are to be certain each pin is getting new gease. I have seen it asserted that if the spider ends up pushed hard against one of the caps, this is enough to stop the grease flow. The apparent possible cure is to lightly hammer the opposite leg of the yoke towards the cap that isn't showing grease, then applying more grease to see if it will now flow. I've never been concious of this myself, so merely present it for consideration and comment. I understand some people don't like, on principle, dislodging a seal by forcing grease through it, but how else do you ensure each pin is being greased? Regards.
  23. What LR supplied technical information do you have available? Both the engine speed governor (Petrol engines only) and the hand throttle (standard with diesel engines, but could be fitted to petrol engines also) were optional extras, so you need to look in literature covering the optional extras (not the standard parts list) for details. The hand throttle was 'just' the quadrant, it relied on the governing mechanism in the high pressure pump to vary the diesel fuel flow, so keeping the engine speed constant. The petrol engine speed governor also had a speed control quadrant, but this worked in conjunction with the governor itself. The quadrant lifted engine speed by about 150 rpm per notch, while the governor looked to maintain the selected engine speed as the load varied. So no, the speed control quadrant did not 'also serve as a basic hand throttle' on a petrol engine (although the end result was the same as with the diesel engine, both quadrant and governor are required with the petrol engine). There is a specialist in the web who deals with LR Optional Equipment, he has the linked web site, and presences on Facebook and eBay.. Regards.
  24. I had to study this point in response to a mailing list query, where the enquirer wanted the door mirror to lift when reversing into his driveway. Reading the drivers handbook closely, when you set this up, you engage reverse then set the required position of the mirror, so the choice of lift or drop is down to the user. Thus there is no 'wrong' way. Regards
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