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David Sparkes

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Everything posted by David Sparkes

  1. David Sparkes

    P38 earth lead

    According to RAVE the earth connection to the engine is E500, and appears to be low down on the RH front corner, that is, the corner of the engine nearest the battery. Again, there is a picture in RAVE. I suspect this general location (low down on the RH front corner of the engine) is the same for both Petrol or Diesel engines. Regards.
  2. David Sparkes

    P38 earth lead

    Interesting. As no-one else had accepted the challenge I started looking at RAVE. I translated your 'offside rear of the engine bay' to 'LH rear of engine compartment' and found that the description 'LH rear of engine compartment near Air Valve Block' is shared by E148 and E149L, using connectors C148 and C149L. There is a picture of this connection point in RAVE, so you can check that I have made the appropriate deduction. The snag, from your point of view, is that it doesn't show or specify where to other ends of the cables go to. Following your thoughts about 'engine related' I looked in the wiring diagram for the V8 to find E148 is associated with the ABS ECU, while E149L is also used for the ABS Boost unit if the vehicle is LHD. I've assumed yours is RHD. I then looked at the wiring diagram for the Diesel and got the same results. I moved on to the 'Anti–Lock Brake System ECU (Z108)'. Part of the Circuit Operation preamble says: The Anti–Lock Brake System ECU (Z108) also has diagnostic capabilities that allow it to detect faults that may impair the system’s efficiency. If a fault occurs, the ECU informs the operator of a problem by illuminating the ABS or the ETC warning light. The ECU also illuminates the warning light when the ignition is first placed in position II. The ABS warning light will remain illuminated until the ECU completes a self check of the system. When the ECU sees all wheels reach a speed of 7 km/h (5 mph), the self check is completed and the ABS warning light turns off. If a fault is detected during the self check, the ABS or the ETC warning light will remain on and a fault code will be stored in memory to aid in servicing the system. When an ABS fault has been detected, the message ABS FAULT may also display. The fault code can be retrieved using a diagnostic tester. Note it says nothing about inhibiting engine start, and as the vehicle has to achieve 5mph to complete the self check then just illuminating the light would allow the engine to start. However, the description doesn't cover there being no earth to complete the test circuit, so in that respect all bets are off. When you switch on the ignition is the ABS warning light illuminated? Time to start again, and revisit your comments. You say 'fixed to the lip of the bulkhead'. This initially implied to me that there are wires connected to the Earth Point. Again, do check the diagram in RAVE. However, your comment 'Can anyone tell me where it goes from and where it goes to?' suggests this may not be the case, and you just have an earth lead folded neatly away. Can you clarify this point please? It may be an earth lead from some other componant, going to a different earth point on the body shell, but I'm not going to guess any further. Regards.
  3. David Sparkes

    Militant history

    A vote here for FMW Freelance Military Writers. Regards.
  4. David Sparkes

    Advice needed re noise from propshaft/gearbox

    What fragile metal clips? I've looked through two different presentations of Selectro Installation instructions, which have included an exploded diagram of the parts, and cannot identify the parts you describe. Again, a clear picture would help. Regards.
  5. David Sparkes

    Advice needed re noise from propshaft/gearbox

    There are different makes of FWH, and as you might imagine the mechanisms inside the covers are different. If you tell us the name or initials on yours we may be able to sort you out with the appropriate instructions. A photograph of the covers may also help (a picture of the 'covered in grease' parts probably isn't as helpful). Regards.
  6. I last used this crane a few years ago, and the hydraulics would not lift the arm fully, nor would it stay up completely. I tried bleeding, and adding more fluid, but to no great effect. I'm likely to need it again soon. The local seal specialist has gone the way of all flesh, and I know no other. Has anyone rebuilt one of these rams with any success, and if so can you suggest a supplier of parts? I did ask MM, they are expecting supplies of the cylinder + pump at the end of Feb (2019) at £114 incl VAT. A new crane (slightly improved) is about £198. The SGS equivalent is £174, or £200 for the 2 ton version. I'm sure a full seal kit will be cheaper, at the risk of my hydraulic dismantle and remantle skills. If it came to it I'd hope that I'd be able to get it professionally rebuilt for less than £114, but that would have to be someone within 40 miles of my North Derbyshire location so I can do the transport. Any economic suggestions please? Regards.
  7. David Sparkes

    Refurb Hydraulics, Machine Mart 1 tonne engine crane.

    I haven't yet tackled the job, so nothing to report so far. Initially I rang the Sales tem, whose number is liberally plastered over the web site As soon as it became clear I wanted 'Parts' or 'Service' I was given, without fuss or difficulty, the telephone number for 'Parts' - 0115 956 1805, which is in Nottingham, UK. I have rung them several times, sometimes they answer quickly, sometimes it's a long wait. I have gained the impression there is only one or two people answering the phone. Considering how many items they sell I suspect they supply very few spare parts. The information they insisted upon was the model number from the label on the unit (not the model number from what you think is the similar item in the current catalogue). Additional information: Spare parts will ONLY be delivered to your address, never to a local store for 'Click and Collect'. Spare parts are NEVER included in ANY discount sales promotion scheme. I have added a picture of almost all the parts. The address label on the padded bag reserves its largest font for the endorsement EXAMINE IMMEDIATELY Check contents against delivery note enclosed The delivery note itself only lists the number of the packet. To view the contents of packet you need to unstaple the plastic bag to access the parts list (the pictograms). I did this carefully (opening the staples rather than just ripping the flimsy bag). The pictograms aren't that clear, so I resorted to counting the items. There are 11 pictured, but I only found 10. Double checked the bag, and the kitchen table, nothing to be seen. Phoned them, no fuss, just 'send a picture of what you have' to my email address. So I did, I also wrote: "While I think the missing part is the circlip I haven’t taken the ram and pump apart yet, so I’m not 100% certain of that, or how critical it is to the repair. If it is the circlip the existing one may be recoverable and reusable.". The response was: "It is indeed the circlip that is missing. If you need any further information, Please call me on (his direct line)". An hour and ten minutes later I was sending the email: "My apologies. I have just found the circlip on the tiled kitchen floor. It is made of translucent nylon like a couple of other items, so not easy to see. It was only when I got down on hands and knees, looking for something else, that I spotted it. ". So, beware of the translucent elements, they have the chameleon like quality of taking on the colour of the background!! Regards.
  8. David Sparkes

    Advice needed re noise from propshaft/gearbox

    Yes and No. Assuming FWH are not installed, or if they are (as in your case) they are Locked, then in 2WD the front propshaft will NOT turn just because the engine is driving the gearbox. In the same circumstances (2WD & FWH locked) the front propshaft WILL turn as the car moves along the road as the propshaft is driven from the wheels rolling along the ground. This answer assumes the FWH are not broken in any way, and that both front halfshafts are intact. Without FWH the replacement assumption would be that the drive members and their bolts have not broken. Regards.
  9. You can of course make checking and cleaning breathers part of your maintenance schedule, but you would also be following a well trodden path if you chose to fit extended breathers, and forgo that chore. Regarding 'terminating' the open ends; when LR fitted extended axle breathers to the 38A Range Rover the upper ends were moulded with a 180 degree turn, about a 2" diameter bend, followed by an inch or so of straight pipe facing downwards. They were at the top of the engine bay, held against the rear bulkhead. I see no need to blow down them occasionally, especially NOT from the open end towards the mechanical bits. Let the 'breathing' of the hot air do the work of discouraging spiders, flies etc. You haven't included your general location in your profile, so I'm assuming UK residency. Owners in areas of the world with a higher density of 'spiders and insects', and / or dust, may have different advice to offer regarding cleaning, but I regard extended breathers as maintenance free, after an initial early life check to ensure they aren't chafing anywhere; It's a little galling to have an extended breather terminating at a high level only to find it has a hole in it at a low level! Regards.
  10. David Sparkes

    Refurb Hydraulics, Machine Mart 1 tonne engine crane.

    Now, I feel a bit of a fraud raising this enquiry. I thought I had asked Machine Mart about seal kits, but it seems I hadn't, perhaps assuming they would have no such thing, so not even raising the topic. Following your prompting I did ask the question, to find they did stock them at £22.48 inclusive of carriage and delivery. No, they don't deliver to your local store, and parts do not qualify for any VAT free shopping deals. Although I had a couple of leads in mind to find "the local hydraulics place that the local farmers and industry use", I decided any cost saving on £22 would not be worth the additional effort involved. I ordered the parts, '3 to 4 working days delivery'. Thank you for your advice, and prompting me to do the job properly the first time!! Regards.
  11. David Sparkes

    Reciprocating saws

    Commenting just because other people may have a Screwfix locally, and can use their Click & Collect' service. I cannot really comment on the most suitable reciprocating saw blades, because although I spent some time reading the User reviews, and buying my best choices for metal and for wood (separate blades) they haven't had enough use to clearly demonstrate how wonderful my choices were!! So it's just 'Screwfix are there, have a varied selection, and may suit your living arrangements'. Regards.
  12. Thank you. I still think there is more to be told. They collect Land Rovers then immediately break them or sell them on, but the motorhome was stolen in April 2017 and 'the GPS tracker activated in June'. It's not a consistent MO. Barrington wasn't convicted of stealing the vehicle, rather of handling stolen goods. Given the 3 month delay, was it bought for personal use, and therefore not subjected to the usual checks? It's good they have been taken out of circulation, for a while, but it seems they weren't 'caught', rather tripped over their own feet by moving away from what they were experienced at. Regards.
  13. I'm more intrigued that someone (the owner?) located their stolen motorhome to the premises. How did that happen? Was it someone with personal contacts, who by inference could be taking part in similar anti-social activities, but who had fallen out with this operator? Was it a tracking device? (If so you'd expect that retailer to be publicising the fact). There are different sorts of trackers, working on different principles and at different costs. Some more detail here would be welcome. Regards.
  14. David Sparkes

    Overheating after top end rebuild

    Oh well, at least I passed the memory test. As you are grasping at straws, I assume the pipe has been proven clear anyway? Regards.
  15. David Sparkes

    Overheating after top end rebuild

    My experience is more diesel than petrol, so I didn't think I could usefully contribute, but having now seen the diagram ... I'm pretty sure there was a Tech Bulletin about this, it concerns the thin green radiator bleed hose (16). After draining, if coolant remains in the lowest section, with air in the higher sections at either end, the pipe is too small a bore to self bleed. An air lock then develops in the top of the radiator, inhibiting flow. The expansion tank will get hot, via the purple expansion pipe (20), but there will still be no flow. The in service work round was to remove the cap from the expansion tank, remove the bleed hose from the radiator, then blow (lung power only) along the pipe towards the expansion tank. When you heard air issuing from the tank you knew the pipe was clear. The factory cure was to reroute the pipe along the top of the inner wing instead of dropping down to the 'chassis rail', thus eliminating the giant U bend. Regards.
  16. David Sparkes

    Centre seat brackets

    No, because there is no need to support the drivers seat, that has it's sliding base so cannot be linked to the static centre seat. Regards.
  17. David Sparkes

    Centre seat brackets

    In a Series 2 or 2A the brackets for the centre seat are exactly the same as the ones for the outer passenger seat. There is no fore and aft or back angle adjustment. Ahh, he says, thinking a bit harder. The bracket fitting between the side seat and the centre seat isa single br acket, mirrored down its centre line and so serving the two seats. The 88, as originally equipped, had three fixed seats and had the brackets listed here. Support for front seat cushion, outer, RH .. ..1 331007 Support for front seat cushion, outer, LH .. ..1 331008 Support for front seat, centre .. ..2 331006 (1 off on 109). 331006 is the 'double bracket' that fitted in the gaps between both outer seats and the centre seat. You will see that only one is specified with the 109, that was because the 109 drivers seat had sliders , as the one in your picture. So, to sum up, you will move the RH bracket for the outer seat over to support the RH side of the centre seat. You need to accquire a single 331006 dual bracket which will support the LH side of the outer seat, and the RH side of the centre seat. Some people will look at the brackets and decide, with a bit of fabrication skils, you can adapt any old seat bracket, but hopefully that won't be necessary. Struth, I just seen the prices asked for new, from John Richards Surplus and rusty / tatty from ebay. I Google searched for '331006 seat'. Good luck with your search.
  18. David Sparkes

    Glue for holding on door seals

    http://uk.gorillaglue.com/products   It surely is!! Glad we got that cleared up 🙂
  19. David Sparkes

    Glue for holding on door seals

    Notwithstanding Mike's 'nothing will stick' admonishment, has anyone tried Gorilla Glue? I have only limited experience, but after using it I mentioned the success and several others around the table had been similarly impressed with their experiences. I had been expecting something like a professional quality superglue, but it's several degrees away from what I had experienced. The instructions required the parts being held together, but adhesive tape will do, it doesn't need a G clamp. There is a warning that the glue will expand as it hardens, so I guess there is some sort of chemical reaction with the moisture content. Anyway, worth a try, I think. Regards.
  20. I'm responding to both my own thoughts and Gazzar's comment "One of the real joys of living in the UK is the access to clever people who just love to build once-off stuff, usually for small money". I recalled that Rakeway have a good reputation for, as they say "bespoke and production automotive and race engineering projects.". I suggest you talk with them to see what options they feel are open to you. My thought is that they can do any machining work you require, and will understand the product you are starting with, in a way a Swiss machine shop may not. Yes, I did notice there are no entries in the 'steering' section of their web site, but I still think you should contact them. BTW, I suggest that a lot of the background you have included is unnecessary; briefly, you 'want a Series Land Rover inner steering column modified, to replace the worm with a splined end, this to be done by machining not cutting and welding, because Swiss regulations prohibit welded steering components, unless done by the vehicle manufacturer'. OK? Regards
  21. David Sparkes


    I can find no mention of figures for piston protrusion in the S2 or S3 Workshop Manuals, neither in the text or in the detailed Data tables. If you want a second opinion from a specialist I suggest you write to Turner Engineering. If it would me I would explain whatever the circumstances are that caused you to ask the question. It's highly likely that the pistons should not protrude at all, in which case you need to know the minimum height between the top of the piston and the top of the block. Regards.
  22. David Sparkes

    Spring way round help please anyone

    If it's a game of 'guess the question' can anyone join in? Please! My guess was that the picture shows a normal and a 2" lift spring, the 2" lift version having some almost coil bound coils, with the question being does the coil bound section go against the axle or the chassis? Cheers.
  23. David Sparkes

    What engine do I have?

    ABRO was the Army Base Repair Organisation. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Army_Base_Repair_Organisation "The plate says the engine was rebuilt for ABRO, which means it was done by an outside contractor. There were a number of diverse companies doing this work as well as some ABRO workshops. ". Army service would also explain the date discrepancy; the earlier date is likely to be when Land Rover assembled it, the later date is when the Army disposed of it, and it first gained its civilian registration. If you want to know the type, 11J, 12J, etc, then the guys here will need some pictures to show timing chain / belt cover, overview of the cylinder head, and a view showing any diagonal stiffening ribs on the side of the block, or that there aren't any!! Regards
  24. David Sparkes

    Throttle spindle leak on a 2.5 NAD CAV pump

    I think the correct answer is 'Yes and No'. The bearing bush in the top cover is not a saleable item, it needs some universal engineering skills to make one, after first assessing the state of the shaft (wear grooves etc). The actual seals may be available from diesel specialists. You will also need a cover gasket. You really do need the numbers off the pump before shopping with the diesel specialists, it's no good saying it's a '85 2.5 NAD ex MOD 110 '. You can remove and replace the top while the unit is in place, and end up with a working pump, but it is a fiddly job to do. Look at this thread from 2008, very much to my surprise the Photobucket picture links still work, as does the link to the DPA manual. Regards.
  25. I'm not sure this will EXACTLY suit, but the IDEA could perhaps be adapted. Steve Parker does a kit to go with fitting a 38A box to a Series. The essential element of this is that the drag link is connected to the track rod, which is naturally fitted closer to the passenger side swivel than the drag link normally is. This effectively quickens the steering, but adds a little weight to the feel at the steering wheel. SP counts this as a positive. The SP product page. The Forum topic that alerted me to the existance of the product. Regards

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