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David Sparkes

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Everything posted by David Sparkes

  1. I have acquired a Drilling and Milling machine, complete with a substantial stand, the one in the picture. (Anything 'interesting' you might see in the background belongs to the vendor, not me!) I want to enhance the storage facility afforded by the stand by inserting 'shallow' drawers, say 2" or 3" in height (50 or 75mm). The idea is that these would hold the drill chuck, collets for milling cutters, the cutters themselves, and standard twist drills. The front to back depth of both spaces is 24" (600mm) as both the front and rear of the stand are vertical, it's only the sides that taper. Looking at the upper of the two spaces, the vertical height is 11" (280mm) and 12" (300mm) wide at the narrow upper edge. The lower space has a vertical height of 15" (380mm) and is 16" (400mm) wide at the narrow upper edge. All dimensions have been rounded, whether imperial or metric are used, any container to the appropriate numbers will fit in the access holes. I am prepared to compromise the 'ideal' and have a drawer cabinet with vertical sides, thus losing some storage space 🙂 I'm looking for suggestions please on where might stock suitable drawers, or a relatively simple design for making my own. Thankyou.
  2. David Sparkes

    ibex 300 build

    That's interesting, and I'm glad I held back, because I'd anticipated that those holes would whistle. Perhaps it's because they are holes into a box section, and taking most of the width of the box so there is no maintained air flow after it separates on the sharp edge. Regards.
  3. David Sparkes

    Bolts for stub axle to swivel housing

    You are correct, I saw the word 'axle' but ignored the word 'stub'!! Looking at the Stub Axle page of the same catalogue I can see various stub axles mentioned, including two for the V8 engined vehicles, but no specific bolts. However, only one gasket is mentioned (277289) which suggests the same bolt diameter and spacing was used for all options. Looking at an earlier catalogue the bolts were 3/8" BSF x 1", 237339. Again, widely available. Regards
  4. David Sparkes

    Bolts for stub axle to swivel housing

    The initial look, in parts catalogue RTC 9841 CE of June 1988, suggests nothing special for the V8 engined vehicle 576521 (10 off) and 576522 (2 off). These part numbers were as specified for the reinforced axle on the S2A. The original spec was 3/8" BSF diameter, 1+3/8" for the 10, and 1+1/2" for the 2. The 2 had extra length to cater for the steering stops. If you need the nuts as well (Locking BSF) these are 50526. As an aside, the same RTC 9841 CE catalogue does reference different hubs for the V8, which suggests the catalogue would have shown V8 parts for the swivel, had any been specified. These bolts are listed in the Axle section, rather than the Steering section. I have no doubt that some people successfully use 10mm High Tensile bolts if BSF isn't economically available. In the UK, all numbers are viable with 'many' suppliers, but I did note that the longer bolts were slightly cheaper than the shorter ones, although you should check this with your favourite reliable UK supplier. I also noticed some eBay adverts for full sets of 12, which may be less money. Regards.
  5. David Sparkes

    Nu-Tools Drilling & Milling - Storage drawers.

    Thanks for your interest; mine is definately the begineers version, but probably ideally suited to this begineer !! Even at this early stage I can see a large amount of related equipment, including static items like fabricated support pieces, will arrive. How much equipment will probably be related to how much work I find to do. Regards.
  6. David Sparkes

    Nu-Tools Drilling & Milling - Storage drawers.

    Although I had forgotten about them, when revisited, as ever, the Really Useful Boxes site contains a bewildering multitude of ideas - well, I can never decide what will be most useful to me!! That stand is made of 3mm steel plate; bolted together it is seriously heavy, designed for the job, and I am not sure I want to reinvent that wheel. Having said that, I have realised that when the traversing table is taken into account, the width required in the workshop is more than it first appears. When I come to finally install it I may fit a wide worktop between the base and the stand. This will be wide enough the 'reserve' the space required for the traversing table. Add some sides to suit, then shelves under the worktop, (between the new sides and the stand), and I will have regained some of my storage space. Despite the angled sides of the metal stand, it will be better organised and utilised than the 'stuff piled on stuff on the floor' that exists at the moment. What I have found is some older examples of the 5 drawer Leitz Post Set. I had saved these when another office was re-equiping some years ago. They were initially re-purposed to store phone, electricity, and gas bills, but being more than 5 years old I've now placed those into recycling. The cages of these post sets are just too tall to go straight in the upper section, but as the opening is smaller than the internal dimensions, because of the flange on the top plate, simply removing 4 of the 6 bolts enables me to flex the shelf down slightly, insert the post set, then re-insert the bolts. I know they don't use the full depth of the stand, but there is enough tray storage to be going on with. Due to the internal design of the cage, the 2" high drawers can be stacked directly above one another, (but not resting on each other). Removing one drawer and re-arranging the others gets my two 2" high drawers and two 3" high drawers. I reckon it's pretty difficult to find something better, especially from my redundant stock. Sometimes harbouring 'stuff' pays off (fortunately)!! Thanks for the ideas and suggestions, although not used directly they have promoted thought, producing beneficial ideas. What's that slogan 'Shared ideas, independent minds'? Whatever happened to those promotional stickers? Regards
  7. David Sparkes

    Series 2a diesel fuel tank to lift pump fuel pipe

    The part number for the feed pipe, underseat tank to lift pump, up to engine suffix J, is 552435, but no-one appears to hold stock. For engine suffix K onwards, without a sedimentor fitted, the number is 564898, but no-one appears to hold stock. With a sedimentor fitted the part number is 564936. The pipe is underseat tank to sedimentor. The return pipe is less clear; I cannot see one listed for the 2.25 engine. I suspect your best bet is to go to a motor factors with ALL the elements you want, pipe, olives, nuts, etc, and buy the individual components. You may have to buy the nylon pipe by the metre, and finish to the exact length as you install it. Also make sure you have the appropriate pipe clips to stop the pipe waving in the breeze, and of chafing against any metalwork. Regards.
  8. David Sparkes

    Sunroof rebuild

    You know how when timing a distributor, all the visible marks line up, but the timing is 180 degrees out? (The 180 degrees being a function of the 2:1 drive gearing). What if something similar is happening here? I'm suggesting the V is on the periphery of a disc. In normal circumstances a slight misplacement requires slight adjustment. What if, due to running the motor while the gear train was inadvertantly disconnected, the disc with the V is 360 or 720 degrees out of its correct position? The V would appear to be in the correct place, but the complete drive train is still misaligned. I've never worked on one of these sunroofs, so cannot begin to judge how to turn the 'disc with a V' through one or more complete turns WITHOUT moving the rest of the drive train, so I can only suggest this as a fresh angle of attack. I don't think it's a lube problem. Regards.
  9. David Sparkes

    Pick up conversion.

    If I read the OP correctly, a truck cab has been bought with carpet glued to the inside, which he is trying to remove. I wonder if he realises the amount of condensation that will occur inside an unlined aluminium cab roof? Put that another way, if carpet isn't used, what is the choice to make a 'warm' internal surface to the cab roof, and thus prevent the condensation? Just to amplify that point, the condensation will drip off the roof onto the occupants, and is always cold!! Instead of discussing carpet, I suggest discussing which glue will be strong enough to hold the carpet up, but weak enough enable the carpet to be removed, when and if required. Regards
  10. David Sparkes

    Starting handle storage clips

    That clip looks as though it might be useful; even better that it's available much cheaper for UK residents from Paddocks. However, given the base vehicle is not a 101 or Lightweight, the clip being sought might be 90508035.
  11. David Sparkes

    Urgent request P38 diesel.

    On the face of it, good. What I see as totally bad news is the fluctuating temperature. If it's stopped doing that then the situation looks more positive. Keeping the cap tight allows the coolant to reach a higher temperature without boiling. Any air trapped in the system cannot get out, potentially allowing an air lock to develop, with the attendant localised overheating. For the sake of longevity (before the next breakdown) I suggest leaving the cap loose and using the least amount of engine performance. The biggest contributor here is vehicle speed, use 50 rather than 60. Obviously take a plentiful supply of water with you. After you have been travelling for 30 mins, without fluctuating temperature, you can start to feel more confident and can decide to tighten the cap. At this stop don't be surprised by water gushing out of the expansion tank, it's a byproduct of heat being pushed into the water as the flow slows down. Don't stop the engine when doing this check stop to tighten the cap; you want to keep the water circulating, absorbing some of the heat from the block. After closing the cap carry on driving, but at low speed. You are fortunate that the weather has cooled in the UK. Set the in-car temperature as high as you can bear; if you can stand the noise, crack open a window or two, or the sunroof, to allow heat to escape the cabin. I am being cautious to try and help you get home without further breakdown. Once there you can get more adventurous, but I will say DO NOT leave the engine for long without antifreeze. The anti corrosion additives are essential to the life of the engine. Saving £10 by not using AF is false economy, changing the headgasket is much more expensive than that. Regards.
  12. David Sparkes

    Urgent request P38 diesel.

    The erratic temperature gauge is due to air going past the sensor, (the air is cooler than the coolant or more correctly air doesn't transfer heat (into the sender) as well as liquid does). Either you have a bubble of air working its way out, or it's a cylinder forcing air into the cooling system. If it's the latter you won't get 160 miles. Think again about leaving the pressure cap loose, as I advised in an earlier post. Regards.
  13. David Sparkes

    Viscous coupling - is it "bleeding"?

    My experience of fan viscous couplings is that if they leak in service the blades get a film of dirt, which wipes off easily by finger pressure, so is easily checked. As the leak becomes more extreme a line of dirt appears on the underside of the bonnet, above the fan; unless the fan is inside a cowl, when it's the inside of the cowl that becomes covered in greasy dirt. I now regard all fan VCs as service items. The service interval may be 'long', but it's an item that falls into the catagory of 'check and replace if required'. I now feel that If it gets to the stage of being mechanically noisey the the check interval has been much, much, too large. My first did that, and started my learning process. Subsequent examples, on different vehicles, taught me about 'greasy dirt clues', as well as lack of cooling becoming noticable. Regards
  14. David Sparkes

    Urgent request P38 diesel.

    Yes I think you can. You have to unclip the cowl from the radiator, pushing the cowl back towards the engine. Then undo the radiator cover; if they are still in place you may have diificulties with the clips holding the bonnet catch release cable. What I cannot recall in detail is the oil cooler details. I seem to recall there is one for the engine oil in front of the coolant radiator, but I don't recall how it is fixed. There may also be one for the gearbox incorporated in the coolant radiator, the possible problem there is the pipe connections. If there are spannered jobs, rather than hose clipped jobs, make sure you have the appropriate spanners before you start. The oil coolers for the auto and manual gearboxes are different. Be aware that a split radiator is often the first sign you have of a head gasket leak, or similar problem, allowing combustion chamber gasses to pressurise the cooling system. Consider running the car with the radiator pressure cap partially released. This may not stop you loosing coolant, although with the cap even lightly in place the rate of loss will be reduced, but the main benefit is that the new radiator won't split before you get home. If you have been a 'wise virgin' and kept your membership of a motoring organisation up to date, the sensible course of action might be to have the car flat bedded home, especially if a caravan is involved. If you are not a member, but are on holiday for the week, consider joining Britannia or Green Flag online on Tuesday, then ring in with a breakdown on Saturday. Obviouly check the conditions for any clauses that stop this abuse being possible before you throw more money at the problem. Regards
  15. David Sparkes

    Where to find a 130 ambulance?

    I think there has been some confusion. Neither of the two links already posted were for any Yahoo Group. The 127 / 130 Ambulance group still exists, although I am not a member. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/127-130-ambulance-owners-enthusiasts/info That page gives more information, showing it has 162 members, and that there have been messages in most months, with 13 already in April. It has existed since 2003. Criteria shown is : For all owners and enthusiasts of the Marshall or Locomotors bodied Land Rover 127 / 130 ambulance. New members who fit the above description are always welcome. Membership is by application and new members are asked to submit a brief explanation of why they wish to join prior to approval. Good Luck 🙂
  16. David Sparkes

    X-Eng Pedal Lock - Cam Lock

    While I've forgotten the precise configuration of the X-Eng Pedal Lock I am going to guess that changing the lock will require the finesse of an angle grinder. Whatever it takes to remove the lock, you are going to have to do it anyway, so perhaps the most certain way of getting a matching replacement (in form factor, anyway) is to proceed with removal, then send the keyless lock to Lowe & Fletcher and ask for a replacement. Regards.
  17. David Sparkes

    p38 sagging material repair

    Do you mean the roof lining or the drivers seat cushion? I can't help in either case, but someone else might be able to help if they had a little more detail. Regards
  18. David Sparkes

    Series 2a door seals

    This one, in the International Forum.
  19. David Sparkes

    Series 2a door seals

    Just to confirm, from the Series 2 Club forum, this feature of these seals is often commented on. Doesn't help much, but just confirming that your experience is not unusual. Read these threads: Door seal on a roll, Door Seal technique, Regards.
  20. David Sparkes

    range rover classic parts catolouge

    Ummm ... The OP is looking for a PARTS manual, not a Workshop manual; but I agree the Range Rover forum would be a more natural home for the query 🙂 It was only his twenty-first post, so we should cut him some slack !! Regards.
  21. David Sparkes

    Fuel filler extension tube gauze repair

    Almost, and Yes. The Carmichael FT6, with its custom bodywork, didn't have an extension tube, because despite being side fill there wasn't space inside the vehicle for the straight run of pipe necessary to 'absorb' the extension. I decided to make one, even though I would have to carry it outside the tank, and therefore susceptible to attracting dirt. I used a 7cm tea strainer from Wilkos for the gauze. This turned out to be a suitable diameter and also preformed into the essential convex shape. As stated earlier, there are different designs of the filler neck and therefore extension tube. Mine happened to need three pips on the tube, to engage in three bayonet slots in the filler neck. There isn't need to go further with describing the construction as you already have the extension tube. Regarding attaching and sealing a new gauze to solid pipe ... Later on I made a long tubular metal gauze filter to go inside the standard Jerrycan. This was attached to the widely available alloy extension filler pipe so it was transferable from Jerrycan to Jerrycan. As you might imagine, this took a little more fabrication. The filter had to be long and tubular to get a suitable filter area, but also mishapen to get round the deflector plate that is an essential part of the true NATO spec Jerrican. The gauze in this case came from a 20cm kitchen strainer, also from the Wilko range. The essential sealing, to ensure all the fuel went through the mesh, was provided by Sugra. There are no pictures of this device. Both units have been tested as part of the build process, but have not been extensively used on the road; there hasn't been the need. I use diesel fuel, so cannot vouch for use with petrol. Regards
  22. David Sparkes

    Monobolt sizes

    Does this count as a cross post, or simply a plea to be 'loved', at least a little bit 🙂 I posted this on Tuesday at midday into the Defender Forum, and by Saturday morning there have been 75 views but no responses, so I thought I'd try here. Realising that Monobolts are superior blind or self-setting rivets I want to size the ones LR used. These appeared to come into favour during the Defender era, which directed the post to the Defender forum. I typed 'Monobolt' into the LRWorkshop site to develop the following list, where the part numbers are current, but clearly originated in different eras. Some might be partially sized if we assume the numbering scheme matches that of Leyland era bolts and screws, but even so, that's a 'best guess' and it would be nice to be certain. Do 'you' already have some of these in stock, but unused, that you would be willing to measure, please? (I sized AFU 1350 on that basis). Does someone already have a list that is crying out for the oxygen of publicity? The last resort is buying one of each, but I thought I'd ask first 🙂 AFU1298 BYG500140 AFU1841 ACU1762 ACU3777 AFU1843 3/16 dia AFU1350 1/4" x 9/16" VYG500060 1/4" Regards,
  23. David Sparkes

    Testing 12V batteries

    Given your test results, I'd be suspicious about them actually performing as required in their Server UPS function. I'd be asking how long they are expected to run the servers for. Are they actually expected to run the servers, to maintain sevice, or are they just to provide the ability the power an automatic controlled shutdown, without losing data, immediately the mains goes off? Dependant on the answers I'd be suggesting an in-service test is performed to test if they can actually provide the service required. Make sure a failed test doesn't leave you with a totally collapsed system. Also consider that the in-service charging system isn't working very well (low voltage leading to insufficient charging). Regards.
  24. David Sparkes

    Rattler and son 1971 S11a swb Restoration

    Here I'm mainly repeating observations by someone who did similar, but also using my experience of cleaing a trailer of sand and crushed stone. With anything other than a smooth surface it's almost impossible to sweep the area clean, which means there are always bits to shake loose and be distributed into the door / tailgate seal, making life difficult for the hinges (and the operator) when closing the door or tailgate. If the aim of the chequer was to inhibit free movement of 'load', without having to bother strapping it down, I'd wonder out load if the solution would work as expected. If the aim was to enable easier movement of load due to reduced surface area contact, again I'd question if that actually helps. I'd expect engagement and jamming when you don't want it, as in positioning the load, but for the jamming restraint to be ineffective when the vehicle is travelling. Also, have you compared the price of chequer plate, of whatever style of chequer, with the price of flat aluminium? (Other load floor covering materials are available). Regards.
  25. David Sparkes

    Series 2a clutch

    Pictures, apart from the first, taken from the Technical Library section of the Series 2 Club. Paddocks S2A clutch plate incl spacer. 2A clutch release, inside bellhousing. Clutch slave cylinder mounting showing space for 'possibly' missing spacer. Regards
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