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David Sparkes

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Everything posted by David Sparkes

  1. David Sparkes

    Viscous coupling - is it "bleeding"?

    My experience of fan viscous couplings is that if they leak in service the blades get a film of dirt, which wipes off easily by finger pressure, so is easily checked. As the leak becomes more extreme a line of dirt appears on the underside of the bonnet, above the fan; unless the fan is inside a cowl, when it's the inside of the cowl that becomes covered in greasy dirt. I now regard all fan VCs as service items. The service interval may be 'long', but it's an item that falls into the catagory of 'check and replace if required'. I now feel that If it gets to the stage of being mechanically noisey the the check interval has been much, much, too large. My first did that, and started my learning process. Subsequent examples, on different vehicles, taught me about 'greasy dirt clues', as well as lack of cooling becoming noticable. Regards
  2. David Sparkes

    Urgent request P38 diesel.

    Yes I think you can. You have to unclip the cowl from the radiator, pushing the cowl back towards the engine. Then undo the radiator cover; if they are still in place you may have diificulties with the clips holding the bonnet catch release cable. What I cannot recall in detail is the oil cooler details. I seem to recall there is one for the engine oil in front of the coolant radiator, but I don't recall how it is fixed. There may also be one for the gearbox incorporated in the coolant radiator, the possible problem there is the pipe connections. If there are spannered jobs, rather than hose clipped jobs, make sure you have the appropriate spanners before you start. The oil coolers for the auto and manual gearboxes are different. Be aware that a split radiator is often the first sign you have of a head gasket leak, or similar problem, allowing combustion chamber gasses to pressurise the cooling system. Consider running the car with the radiator pressure cap partially released. This may not stop you loosing coolant, although with the cap even lightly in place the rate of loss will be reduced, but the main benefit is that the new radiator won't split before you get home. If you have been a 'wise virgin' and kept your membership of a motoring organisation up to date, the sensible course of action might be to have the car flat bedded home, especially if a caravan is involved. If you are not a member, but are on holiday for the week, consider joining Britannia or Green Flag online on Tuesday, then ring in with a breakdown on Saturday. Obviouly check the conditions for any clauses that stop this abuse being possible before you throw more money at the problem. Regards
  3. David Sparkes

    Where to find a 130 ambulance?

    I think there has been some confusion. Neither of the two links already posted were for any Yahoo Group. The 127 / 130 Ambulance group still exists, although I am not a member. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/127-130-ambulance-owners-enthusiasts/info That page gives more information, showing it has 162 members, and that there have been messages in most months, with 13 already in April. It has existed since 2003. Criteria shown is : For all owners and enthusiasts of the Marshall or Locomotors bodied Land Rover 127 / 130 ambulance. New members who fit the above description are always welcome. Membership is by application and new members are asked to submit a brief explanation of why they wish to join prior to approval. Good Luck 🙂
  4. David Sparkes

    X-Eng Pedal Lock - Cam Lock

    While I've forgotten the precise configuration of the X-Eng Pedal Lock I am going to guess that changing the lock will require the finesse of an angle grinder. Whatever it takes to remove the lock, you are going to have to do it anyway, so perhaps the most certain way of getting a matching replacement (in form factor, anyway) is to proceed with removal, then send the keyless lock to Lowe & Fletcher and ask for a replacement. Regards.
  5. David Sparkes

    p38 sagging material repair

    Do you mean the roof lining or the drivers seat cushion? I can't help in either case, but someone else might be able to help if they had a little more detail. Regards
  6. David Sparkes

    Series 2a door seals

    This one, in the International Forum.
  7. David Sparkes

    Series 2a door seals

    Just to confirm, from the Series 2 Club forum, this feature of these seals is often commented on. Doesn't help much, but just confirming that your experience is not unusual. Read these threads: Door seal on a roll, Door Seal technique, Regards.
  8. David Sparkes

    range rover classic parts catolouge

    Ummm ... The OP is looking for a PARTS manual, not a Workshop manual; but I agree the Range Rover forum would be a more natural home for the query 🙂 It was only his twenty-first post, so we should cut him some slack !! Regards.
  9. David Sparkes

    Fuel filler extension tube gauze repair

    Almost, and Yes. The Carmichael FT6, with its custom bodywork, didn't have an extension tube, because despite being side fill there wasn't space inside the vehicle for the straight run of pipe necessary to 'absorb' the extension. I decided to make one, even though I would have to carry it outside the tank, and therefore susceptible to attracting dirt. I used a 7cm tea strainer from Wilkos for the gauze. This turned out to be a suitable diameter and also preformed into the essential convex shape. As stated earlier, there are different designs of the filler neck and therefore extension tube. Mine happened to need three pips on the tube, to engage in three bayonet slots in the filler neck. There isn't need to go further with describing the construction as you already have the extension tube. Regarding attaching and sealing a new gauze to solid pipe ... Later on I made a long tubular metal gauze filter to go inside the standard Jerrycan. This was attached to the widely available alloy extension filler pipe so it was transferable from Jerrycan to Jerrycan. As you might imagine, this took a little more fabrication. The filter had to be long and tubular to get a suitable filter area, but also mishapen to get round the deflector plate that is an essential part of the true NATO spec Jerrican. The gauze in this case came from a 20cm kitchen strainer, also from the Wilko range. The essential sealing, to ensure all the fuel went through the mesh, was provided by Sugra. There are no pictures of this device. Both units have been tested as part of the build process, but have not been extensively used on the road; there hasn't been the need. I use diesel fuel, so cannot vouch for use with petrol. Regards
  10. David Sparkes

    Monobolt sizes

    Does this count as a cross post, or simply a plea to be 'loved', at least a little bit 🙂 I posted this on Tuesday at midday into the Defender Forum, and by Saturday morning there have been 75 views but no responses, so I thought I'd try here. Realising that Monobolts are superior blind or self-setting rivets I want to size the ones LR used. These appeared to come into favour during the Defender era, which directed the post to the Defender forum. I typed 'Monobolt' into the LRWorkshop site to develop the following list, where the part numbers are current, but clearly originated in different eras. Some might be partially sized if we assume the numbering scheme matches that of Leyland era bolts and screws, but even so, that's a 'best guess' and it would be nice to be certain. Do 'you' already have some of these in stock, but unused, that you would be willing to measure, please? (I sized AFU 1350 on that basis). Does someone already have a list that is crying out for the oxygen of publicity? The last resort is buying one of each, but I thought I'd ask first 🙂 AFU1298 BYG500140 AFU1841 ACU1762 ACU3777 AFU1843 3/16 dia AFU1350 1/4" x 9/16" VYG500060 1/4" Regards,
  11. David Sparkes

    Testing 12V batteries

    Given your test results, I'd be suspicious about them actually performing as required in their Server UPS function. I'd be asking how long they are expected to run the servers for. Are they actually expected to run the servers, to maintain sevice, or are they just to provide the ability the power an automatic controlled shutdown, without losing data, immediately the mains goes off? Dependant on the answers I'd be suggesting an in-service test is performed to test if they can actually provide the service required. Make sure a failed test doesn't leave you with a totally collapsed system. Also consider that the in-service charging system isn't working very well (low voltage leading to insufficient charging). Regards.
  12. David Sparkes

    Rattler and son 1971 S11a swb Restoration

    Here I'm mainly repeating observations by someone who did similar, but also using my experience of cleaing a trailer of sand and crushed stone. With anything other than a smooth surface it's almost impossible to sweep the area clean, which means there are always bits to shake loose and be distributed into the door / tailgate seal, making life difficult for the hinges (and the operator) when closing the door or tailgate. If the aim of the chequer was to inhibit free movement of 'load', without having to bother strapping it down, I'd wonder out load if the solution would work as expected. If the aim was to enable easier movement of load due to reduced surface area contact, again I'd question if that actually helps. I'd expect engagement and jamming when you don't want it, as in positioning the load, but for the jamming restraint to be ineffective when the vehicle is travelling. Also, have you compared the price of chequer plate, of whatever style of chequer, with the price of flat aluminium? (Other load floor covering materials are available). Regards.
  13. David Sparkes

    Series 2a clutch

    Pictures, apart from the first, taken from the Technical Library section of the Series 2 Club. Paddocks S2A clutch plate incl spacer. 2A clutch release, inside bellhousing. Clutch slave cylinder mounting showing space for 'possibly' missing spacer. Regards
  14. David Sparkes

    Monobolt sizing

    Realising that Monobolts are superior blind or self-setting rivets I want to size the ones LR used. These appeared to come into favour during the Defender era, which directs the post to this forum. I typed 'Monobolt' into the LRWorkshop site to develop the following list, where the part numbers are current, but clearly originated in different eras. Some might be partially sized if we assume the numbering scheme matches that of Leyland era bolts and screws, but even so, that's a 'best guess' and it would be nice to be certain. Do 'you' already have some of these in stock, but unused, that you would be willing to measure, please? (I sized AFU 1350 on that basis). Does someone already have a list that is crying out for the oxygen of publicity? The last resort is buying one of each, but I thought I'd ask first 🙂 AFU1298 BYG500140 AFU1841 ACU1762 ACU3777 AFU1843 3/16 dia AFU1350 1/4" x 9/16" VYG500060 1/4" Regards,
  15. David Sparkes

    Spare wheel query

    If you have a Series 3 it is most likely it has M16 studs, so you can try a wheel nut on your spare wheel retaining rod. If you have a Series 2 or 2A it was probably fitted with the smaller 9/16 studs, with a BSF thread, BUT the hubs may have been updated by a PO fitting M16 studs. Inspection is the only way to tell. Regards.
  16. David Sparkes

    P38 earth lead

    According to RAVE the earth connection to the engine is E500, and appears to be low down on the RH front corner, that is, the corner of the engine nearest the battery. Again, there is a picture in RAVE. I suspect this general location (low down on the RH front corner of the engine) is the same for both Petrol or Diesel engines. Regards.
  17. David Sparkes

    P38 earth lead

    Interesting. As no-one else had accepted the challenge I started looking at RAVE. I translated your 'offside rear of the engine bay' to 'LH rear of engine compartment' and found that the description 'LH rear of engine compartment near Air Valve Block' is shared by E148 and E149L, using connectors C148 and C149L. There is a picture of this connection point in RAVE, so you can check that I have made the appropriate deduction. The snag, from your point of view, is that it doesn't show or specify where to other ends of the cables go to. Following your thoughts about 'engine related' I looked in the wiring diagram for the V8 to find E148 is associated with the ABS ECU, while E149L is also used for the ABS Boost unit if the vehicle is LHD. I've assumed yours is RHD. I then looked at the wiring diagram for the Diesel and got the same results. I moved on to the 'Anti–Lock Brake System ECU (Z108)'. Part of the Circuit Operation preamble says: The Anti–Lock Brake System ECU (Z108) also has diagnostic capabilities that allow it to detect faults that may impair the system’s efficiency. If a fault occurs, the ECU informs the operator of a problem by illuminating the ABS or the ETC warning light. The ECU also illuminates the warning light when the ignition is first placed in position II. The ABS warning light will remain illuminated until the ECU completes a self check of the system. When the ECU sees all wheels reach a speed of 7 km/h (5 mph), the self check is completed and the ABS warning light turns off. If a fault is detected during the self check, the ABS or the ETC warning light will remain on and a fault code will be stored in memory to aid in servicing the system. When an ABS fault has been detected, the message ABS FAULT may also display. The fault code can be retrieved using a diagnostic tester. Note it says nothing about inhibiting engine start, and as the vehicle has to achieve 5mph to complete the self check then just illuminating the light would allow the engine to start. However, the description doesn't cover there being no earth to complete the test circuit, so in that respect all bets are off. When you switch on the ignition is the ABS warning light illuminated? Time to start again, and revisit your comments. You say 'fixed to the lip of the bulkhead'. This initially implied to me that there are wires connected to the Earth Point. Again, do check the diagram in RAVE. However, your comment 'Can anyone tell me where it goes from and where it goes to?' suggests this may not be the case, and you just have an earth lead folded neatly away. Can you clarify this point please? It may be an earth lead from some other componant, going to a different earth point on the body shell, but I'm not going to guess any further. Regards.
  18. David Sparkes

    Militant history

    A vote here for FMW Freelance Military Writers. Regards.
  19. David Sparkes

    Advice needed re noise from propshaft/gearbox

    What fragile metal clips? I've looked through two different presentations of Selectro Installation instructions, which have included an exploded diagram of the parts, and cannot identify the parts you describe. Again, a clear picture would help. Regards.
  20. David Sparkes

    Advice needed re noise from propshaft/gearbox

    There are different makes of FWH, and as you might imagine the mechanisms inside the covers are different. If you tell us the name or initials on yours we may be able to sort you out with the appropriate instructions. A photograph of the covers may also help (a picture of the 'covered in grease' parts probably isn't as helpful). Regards.
  21. I last used this crane a few years ago, and the hydraulics would not lift the arm fully, nor would it stay up completely. I tried bleeding, and adding more fluid, but to no great effect. I'm likely to need it again soon. The local seal specialist has gone the way of all flesh, and I know no other. Has anyone rebuilt one of these rams with any success, and if so can you suggest a supplier of parts? I did ask MM, they are expecting supplies of the cylinder + pump at the end of Feb (2019) at £114 incl VAT. A new crane (slightly improved) is about £198. The SGS equivalent is £174, or £200 for the 2 ton version. I'm sure a full seal kit will be cheaper, at the risk of my hydraulic dismantle and remantle skills. If it came to it I'd hope that I'd be able to get it professionally rebuilt for less than £114, but that would have to be someone within 40 miles of my North Derbyshire location so I can do the transport. Any economic suggestions please? Regards.
  22. David Sparkes

    Refurb Hydraulics, Machine Mart 1 tonne engine crane.

    I haven't yet tackled the job, so nothing to report so far. Initially I rang the Sales tem, whose number is liberally plastered over the web site As soon as it became clear I wanted 'Parts' or 'Service' I was given, without fuss or difficulty, the telephone number for 'Parts' - 0115 956 1805, which is in Nottingham, UK. I have rung them several times, sometimes they answer quickly, sometimes it's a long wait. I have gained the impression there is only one or two people answering the phone. Considering how many items they sell I suspect they supply very few spare parts. The information they insisted upon was the model number from the label on the unit (not the model number from what you think is the similar item in the current catalogue). Additional information: Spare parts will ONLY be delivered to your address, never to a local store for 'Click and Collect'. Spare parts are NEVER included in ANY discount sales promotion scheme. I have added a picture of almost all the parts. The address label on the padded bag reserves its largest font for the endorsement EXAMINE IMMEDIATELY Check contents against delivery note enclosed The delivery note itself only lists the number of the packet. To view the contents of packet you need to unstaple the plastic bag to access the parts list (the pictograms). I did this carefully (opening the staples rather than just ripping the flimsy bag). The pictograms aren't that clear, so I resorted to counting the items. There are 11 pictured, but I only found 10. Double checked the bag, and the kitchen table, nothing to be seen. Phoned them, no fuss, just 'send a picture of what you have' to my email address. So I did, I also wrote: "While I think the missing part is the circlip I haven’t taken the ram and pump apart yet, so I’m not 100% certain of that, or how critical it is to the repair. If it is the circlip the existing one may be recoverable and reusable.". The response was: "It is indeed the circlip that is missing. If you need any further information, Please call me on (his direct line)". An hour and ten minutes later I was sending the email: "My apologies. I have just found the circlip on the tiled kitchen floor. It is made of translucent nylon like a couple of other items, so not easy to see. It was only when I got down on hands and knees, looking for something else, that I spotted it. ". So, beware of the translucent elements, they have the chameleon like quality of taking on the colour of the background!! Regards.
  23. David Sparkes

    Advice needed re noise from propshaft/gearbox

    Yes and No. Assuming FWH are not installed, or if they are (as in your case) they are Locked, then in 2WD the front propshaft will NOT turn just because the engine is driving the gearbox. In the same circumstances (2WD & FWH locked) the front propshaft WILL turn as the car moves along the road as the propshaft is driven from the wheels rolling along the ground. This answer assumes the FWH are not broken in any way, and that both front halfshafts are intact. Without FWH the replacement assumption would be that the drive members and their bolts have not broken. Regards.
  24. You can of course make checking and cleaning breathers part of your maintenance schedule, but you would also be following a well trodden path if you chose to fit extended breathers, and forgo that chore. Regarding 'terminating' the open ends; when LR fitted extended axle breathers to the 38A Range Rover the upper ends were moulded with a 180 degree turn, about a 2" diameter bend, followed by an inch or so of straight pipe facing downwards. They were at the top of the engine bay, held against the rear bulkhead. I see no need to blow down them occasionally, especially NOT from the open end towards the mechanical bits. Let the 'breathing' of the hot air do the work of discouraging spiders, flies etc. You haven't included your general location in your profile, so I'm assuming UK residency. Owners in areas of the world with a higher density of 'spiders and insects', and / or dust, may have different advice to offer regarding cleaning, but I regard extended breathers as maintenance free, after an initial early life check to ensure they aren't chafing anywhere; It's a little galling to have an extended breather terminating at a high level only to find it has a hole in it at a low level! Regards.
  25. David Sparkes

    Refurb Hydraulics, Machine Mart 1 tonne engine crane.

    Now, I feel a bit of a fraud raising this enquiry. I thought I had asked Machine Mart about seal kits, but it seems I hadn't, perhaps assuming they would have no such thing, so not even raising the topic. Following your prompting I did ask the question, to find they did stock them at £22.48 inclusive of carriage and delivery. No, they don't deliver to your local store, and parts do not qualify for any VAT free shopping deals. Although I had a couple of leads in mind to find "the local hydraulics place that the local farmers and industry use", I decided any cost saving on £22 would not be worth the additional effort involved. I ordered the parts, '3 to 4 working days delivery'. Thank you for your advice, and prompting me to do the job properly the first time!! Regards.

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