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David Sparkes

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by David Sparkes

  1. It's not unknown for suppliers to mismatch nuts to Ubolts - That's assuming the nuts were included with the new Ubolts. I suggest removing a U bolt then try a nut to see if it is a thread clash, or something else. 2nd thoughts - are you sure the head of the single central bolt is correctly in the hole in the spring seat. Regards.
  2. No I'm not going, but your repeated mentions of the show keep reminding me of one aspect. The last I'd seen you have mounted your rooftop tent, and your visit to the show is associated with your future use of this tent. I am reminded of a forum topic some years ago when people went to a public show with their new roof tent in place. When they returned to their vehicle the vehicle was still there, but with a damaged roof where the tent had been roughly removed. That was possibly at Billing, which had a 'rougher' reputation than Peterborough, however I just wanted to caution you of the risks involved in leaving a mounted roof tent in a open car park. Overall I'd rather be alarmist before the event than leave any comment until afterwards. Regards.
  3. Personal choice of course, I've just seen a USA person enthuse over a S3 based fire engine with a rigid roof, on the basis it would make a good camper. My reminder is that any LR with a chassis underneath will have a very high floor. If any adult user is near to standard height, and never wishes to stand up, then there will be no problem; otherwise life will seem a little cramped. Regards.
  4. I don't know how much you have paid, but judging from the small information you have the vendor didn't 'sell' it very well, so it's probable you have done well. Especially as the advert says Bits4Landys are out of stock. I'll attach some pictures of one installed, in the UK, but don't ignore the details in the advert; the passenger side wing will have to come off to install the box. Another relevant comment I have on file is "Don't know about fitting one but the lid is fairly easy to get on and off when the box is in position. My 109 2A and S2B FC , both ex military, had them fitted. I do not know whether it is normal but both of mine were not waterproof. The water channel at the rear of the bonnet dumps its contents onto the boxes and some used to get inside.". Regards.
  5. Those do not date from the Series era, although they could be fitted to one. The true Series rear Lift and Tow eyes are D rings, but larger than the ones fitted to the front bumper. The rear rings are on a 'squarer' base plate, whereas the fronts have tapered base plates. The rears also need shaped spacer plates, which can be home fabricated, to facilitate over lapping the bodywork mounting tabs on the rear cross-member. They are included in both the Lightweight and Defender Parts listings. Note that the ones shown by the OP are for the rear, whereas the ones shown by Stellaghost are for the front. The rears have the attachent face relieved so the unit will overlap the body mounting tab on the rear crossmember. I will attach two files from parts listings. The 'Military vehicle' is the lightweight. The other diagram, from the Defender, shows in better detail howe the eye overlaps the body mounting tab. In addition, if you want bumperettes, for the civilian Series 2A, you need ones made for the Defender, NOT ones made for the Lightweight, as the crossmembers are different shapes. Regards.
  6. Sorry, I couln't resist .... Looks like Trailwise ID NU0249-01, roughly between Bear's House and Sea House, south of Berwick-Upon-Tweed. I note in passing that TW2 now allows photos to be added to their Comments reporting use. The Northumberland Definitive Map doesn't use plain English terms such as BOAT, calling it '203/006' instead. Well Done for taking the trouble to find, and drive it. Regards.
  7. The Barter Books car park can be a little tight if driving a larger vehicle, or one with restricted manoeuvrability. Having driven in, you may have to reverse all the way out again!! Just saying 🙂
  8. 2 questions, mainly to eliminate the obvious ... Do you have the key for the lock? If so, why do you want to remove the barrel? What does the other side of the lock assembly look like - any clues there? Regards.
  9. Presumably the lenses are rose tinted? 🙂
  10. I find several discrepancies relating to your post. Searching for RTC844 bring different results from searching for RTC 844. Generally these refer to a 110 (not a 100). I cannot be 100%, never having played with a 110, but I suspect that for this part 'a Salisbury is a Salisbury' so the wheelbase of the vehicle is immaterial. More were fitted to 110s than 109s, so it's the 110 that gets the mention. Using RTC 844 on ebay I see the cheapest is item number 253671137274 at £55. However, item number 254095288646 at £58 appears to get you a gasket and fill plug, although I'd check before ordering. There is a used version, 224565971333, currently at £30 + £10 postage. For RTC845, that presentation seems more generally recognised (instead of RTC 845) but yes, the price seems high. I guess there is less demand, which begs the question; Do you really need one? I don't have an insight to its function. Regards.
  11. I find myself wondering how many 'likes of Machine Mart' are there in Belgrade, Serbia? Regards.
  12. Blanchards, Yes, but don't hang about. RETIREMENT NOTICE Pete, Frances and Nick Blanchard have finally decided to retire after 50 years having the pleasure of supplying our loyal and valued customers with their military Land Rovers, Trailers and parts needs. Over the next 2 years, we will be selling our entire stock of both vehicles and parts before we close our doors permanently. (Approximately end of 2023) From immediate effect, we will finish our Land Rover refurbishment programme and supply only 'As is' Land Rovers with of course full MOT and registration until our stocks have been depleted. Regards.
  13. Crickey, people scrap it because of a failed simple componant (plus a possibly failed tyre). Whatever money they have they don't deserve it, because it certainly isn't valued. Regards.
  14. The example I've shown is from a 1968 S2A. The pin you have shown is one I associate with the handbrake linkage, and the PTO linkage. Part 216421, shown on LRW, scroll down the page for multiple suppliers and pictures. At the bottom of that page there is a parts diagram, click on it to expand and see the associated clevis 279155, which you might recognise. Scroll down again and there is a link to somone selling them as a combined set, ebay item 321866115967. Looking at my parts list I see it shows 'alternative fixings', EITHER the screw you show OR the nut and bolt I show. Only one lever is shown, 576210 (now FRC6998). Again, scroll all the way down for a more modern parts diagram (only showing the bolt fastening). Regards.
  15. The brake anchor plates have different part numbers, Left 246565 and Right 246566. Recognising which is which is a bit more difficult!! Regards.
  16. I'm a little uncertain what is going wrong, but just as an illustration for others I'll include some pictures which formed my 'learning experience'. The bottom pivot was completely encapsulated in a big ball of very sticky grease, but I don't know when that had been put on. When I removed the grease the bolt and fixed point were excessively worn, but fortunately the clevis (on the bottom of the lever) was not worn. Note the clevis has one thick plate and one thin plate. I understand this is a design feature to ensure the thin plate will easily distort as the pivot bolt is tightened, The thick plate needs to be thick to enable a rigid joint. Note the 'shoulder' under the head of the screw; this is where the thin side plate of the clevis sat, and shows the bolt was not loose in the clevis. The reduced diameter of the bolt, and the oval hole in the fixed pivot shows that the pivot bolt was not tightened enough to clamp the fixed pivot. Corrective action was to replace the fixed pivot (cheap enough not to merit any sort of repair), to replace the screw with a new bolt plus nyloc nut. I also included two plain flat washers, one under the bolt head and one under the nyloc nut. These were to ensure neither the bolt or nut turned as the lever was moved. I greased all surfaces EXCEPT for the outer faces of the flat washers, as I wanted high friction against the bolt head and the nut. I tightened the nut / bolt as much as I could with normal length spanners. This may seem too tight, considering it's a pivot, but I had in mind the lever is about 18" long, making it easy to overcome the friction, considering the moving surfaces are greased. The gearchange is 'deliberate', it doesn't prevent movement, but 'I'll admit it isn't a fingertip change. I also inserted a new spring on the ball joint (not shown in your diagram), putting loops of locking wire around the shaft and the curved ends of the spring to ensure it cannot fall out (a standard failing). I don't know how this compares to your installation, but it's all I can offer to help. I don't understand the twisting you are experiencing. Regards.
  17. OK, now I'm confused. I went to check my 90/110 Parts listing. This shows the steering stop bolt as 12mm, but part number AFU1234, this is validated on parts sites such as Land Rover Workshop and is available for considerably less than the FTC4111 . The AFU1234 appears to come with the neccessary half nut and plain washer. I do not know the size of the bolt head. Regards.
  18. Yes, having found them I felt I 'had' to mention them, but also felt that it would be cheaper, especially in your location, to buy two bolts with 22mm heads and have the shank 're profiled' to a spacer section plus the 12mm thread. Mind you, the diameter of the spacer section looks so large, in relation to the 22mm head, that a separate sleeve would probably also be required. Regards.
  19. There are a second-hand pair on ebay UK, item 223992552763, but as you suggest, the normal offering under that part number appears to be a standard bolt. Regards.
  20. The part number appears to be 390939 and can be described as 'METAL BUSH - MULTI USE - DEFENDER - DISCOVERY 1 - RANGE ROVER CLASSIC (PACK OF 5)'. To support the 'multi-use' element, Craddocks describe it as 'Roller for Seat Slide Range Rover and Discovery and 90/110'. I have just recalled that if you search LRW by part number it shows an alternative use, as a spacer underneath the nut of a 'nut and bolt' holding a wiring P clip in place; presumably so that a socket can be mounted on the nut without fouling the P clip. The point here is that there is a P clip included on the original drawing of the lifting eye. Regards.
  21. You might like to be aware of the UK based Series Two Club. There are several US members already, although I understand it's a big place, so that doesn't mean there will be any near you 🙂 Via their website and Forum they have many circuit diagrams available, differentiating between Petrol and Diesel, Positive and Negative earth system,s and whether a dynamo or alternator is fitted. It's unlikely to have both a Positive earth system and an alternator. It is possible, but I mention it to point out that the wiring diagrams cover almost all eventualities. Many users appear to find the Club diagrams easier to follow than the LR versions. The brake light issue might be because the tail light and brake light wiring has been swapped over accidentally. Regards.
  22. In the days of copper coated aluminium wire strands and copper coated steel jaws (automotive jump leads) I accept the caution is valid, but many of those in question are 'folded' crush washers. The basic flat sealing washers also have 'deformable' as a required trait. It will be an interesting test to see if crush and sealing washers have also become 'steel underneath'. Regards.
  23. What you describe is a natural characteristic as Parabolics do not have the built-in roll stiffness that the multi-leaf springs do. TeriAnn Wakeman noted this. "Properly set up these (parabolic) springs will provide almost coil spring like softness. However since nothing comes for free there are a couple penalties that come with the soft parabolic spring. One is an increase of side sway. Two to four leaves only attached at the ends and middle have considerably less resistance to side torsion than a block of leaves in constant contact along their lengths. So side sway on curves, from quick maneuvers and body tilts for terrain will be more, and the dynamic centre of gravity will effectively be a little higher." Regards.
  24. Actually, the nuts DO swell. The nuts have stainless steel covers, the nuts corrode and the corrosion takes up more space and thus expands the stainless steel cover. This expansion of the cover is the 'swelling'. It means the standard socket struggles to fit. In mild cases a 12 point (bi-hex) socket can be hammered on, distorting the cover into the extra space inside the socket, but as the corrosion (and swelling) gets worse, the only thing that will fit is a larger socket. If the larger socket is 12 point it may not catch on the corners of the nut, especially as these corners are rounded due to the style of the covers. At this point a 6 point socket is required, but if this is 'flank drive', where each of the 'flat' sides curve inwards, they may still need hammering on as the 'curve in' meets the maximum point of the swell. Each person will have a different break point, when the cost of new nuts is less aggravation than choosing the best solution for each of the 20 nuts. Regards.
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