David Sparkes

To my mind there are two possible ways of reading that comment: 1. It's uncanny how they have managed to match a Land Rover to the Chinook. 2. It's uncanny how these retailers find people with so much more money than sense to pay for figments of imagination, that look as though they have boon possibly fuelled by an excess of alcohol, and / or 'Columbian marching powder'. Regards.

You say 'you have the part number', as it is not readily found online the question has to be, where did you find the part number? If it is on a label attached to a bag, or part, a photo of the bag or part might be useful. Regards.

Similar mindset when it came to testing the roll stability of Reliant three wheelers, or standard caravans, 'lets destroy it'! What's the correct word - childish, juvenile, immature? They proved without a doubt that there is always a dark side to anything of quality, it's just that most people apply a filter on their public behaviour. Regards.

In that case I agree, you have every right to feel aggrieved. I wonder what external body you could complain to, after all, by setting up a system for you to record your readings they are leading you to a expectation they are going to use them, and take care of them. (If they weren't going to take care of the information there would be a disclaimer to that effect, wouldn't there!) As they haven't, it might seem they were misleading you, and surely, misleading Customers must have some quango bouncing up and down. Regards.

The question I'd like to ask is, in the absence of a Smart Meter, how often were the meters read manually? Shell will not be able to supply any more granularity than that periodicity. Were they read, by a human eyeball, monthly, or perhaps quarterly, with estimates for the months when no reading took place? I changed supplier about 7 years ago, and again about 4 years ago. I don't recall knowing monthly figures, but I do recall creating a spreadsheet based on quarterly figures. Actually creating the spreadsheet database was a boring activity, but once I had those figures I had numbers to put into the prediction boxes of other possible suppliers. Thus the final comparison became pretty straight forward. Regards.

I thought there might be pictures of Series 2 Marshall Ambulances on the forum of the Series 2 Club, unlikely to find a Pulse Ambulance there as well, but you can't have everything. This camper converted was for sale in August 2022. To my untutored eye the external bodywork seems standard, so might act as a reference. https://adobe.ly/3BMgSUC There is a Marshall Ambulance specific Facebook group who have people looking to restore theirs to original who may be interested. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1391889754423495 Regards.

On a 2A the forum of the Series 2 Club report them as being 2BA. I imagine the S3 is the same. Regards.

Initially, I have to say that after that experience I'm not going to waste any more of my life viewing a 'Landy' article again. The experience of accessing the online version was painful, and after all that the technical content was very poor. There is one picture which might make sense to someone with more experience than me, like Ed Poore. Judging by the profiles of the two rear axles, the mid axle has NOT been 'flipped', rather the differential casing, and a few inches of axle tube, has been cut from the axle, then, after a section of the LH axle tube has been removed, the differential casing has been welded in that space It looks, and I'm guessing a little bit, is that the mid axle is driven from the gearbox PTO, while the rear axle is driven from the transfer box as standard, but via an intermediate steady bearing, possibly mounted on the mid axle to ensure the rear axle propshaft never clashes with the mid axle. Regards.

If I recall correctly, the items made by a forum member had the blade made from a 'lighter but stronger' steel. Lightness being a relative term. Apart from that faded recollection, I haven't found any relevant information. Regards.

A Service Manual other than the Workshop Manual? Section E1-14A is titled Overhaul. The immediately preceding pages show an exploded view, with key. This isn't work I would undertake, on any differential, but for those with the skills / training it seems the information is there. Regards.

'Thousands' would only be a slight exaggeration. See https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=2cv+camper Regards.

Yes I do, and NO it doesn't. You need an external adaptor plate which comes with stand-off legs (tubes) so the nuts for the NATO hitch can be accessed. Try 245599. Nowadays, preferred use includes a securing point, or points, for safety chains. Regards.

Absolutely NOT. The bloody things are an abomination, just when you want to stretch into the further reaches of the load bay, the RR drop down tailgate gets in the way, pushing you further away from whatever it is you are trying to reach. If the 'whatever' is heavy the increased stretch multiplies the risk of back strain. I can see why the drop down tailgate was considered a useful increase in platform area in the half pint sized 88", but for later vehicles, used practically, it demonstrates that continuing a feature because some fart arse designer thinks it's iconic was, and is, a mistake. Applied to the vehicle as a whole the same thinking prolonged the old style Defender life span at least 20 years too long, letting the competing manufacturers into a wide open goal. Designers shouldn't take all the blame, they were employed by incompetent managers. Regards.

A contribution from a USA resident, via the UKLRO mailing list. You don't have to have a Twitter account to watch it, but you may have to find the loudspeaker symbol at the lower edge of the clip, click it to unmute. Regards.

I disagree with this. The batteries do not suddenly become knackered, you just loose range as the batteries age. The amount of that reduction is much smaller than most people imagine. Simon, thank you for your response as it mirrors my understanding, but I didn't have the detail to support my point of view. Personally, when I was looking at choosing an EV, I first looked at my normal monthly trips, knowing I would want to complete these trips without recharging (The once or twice a year longer (family) trips I accepted would need charge stops). I set the parameter that the monthly trips would not use more than 75% of the expected battery life. I left the 25% as margin to cover: the additional capacity required when I wasn't driving 'economically', my journeys often took me into the Peak District, where the uphill stretches (especially when accelerating) would increase consumption, that heating the cabin would drain capacity, and allowing some degradation in battery performance. That was in 2017. By the time I took delivery in April 2018 there was increasing evidence, through 'chatter' on EV forums, that battery degradation was not a 'thing'. My initial 12 months saw an increase in my yearly mileage, due to more long one-off trips requiring on-route charging. Travel restrictions due to personal safety (Covid) meant that the mileage over the 4 years (18 to 22) has been significantly lower. While I readily understand my situation doesn't match yours, I post this to explain a bit of the background around how an EV can work successfully, and to add my voice to the argument that EV battery degradation is not a significant issue. Regards.

As I intimated in the rest of my post, different people have different tolerances. Regards.

That encapsulates why I can never be enthusiastic about these amateur video makers. To keep watching a lot of them reminds me of the phrase about needing to kiss a lot of frogs before finding a prince (or princess). Perhaps we are being unfair, and should just refer back to the initial post by JeffR 🙂 Edited to say that, after more searching, there seem to be two sizes. This website from a Sheffield UK retailer appears to offer both, contains multiple images of both sizes, and a dimensioned drawing of one of them, showing the detail FF, and myself, apparently wanted. Regards

I would counsel against using the word 'pressure' in this regard. The 'pressure' seen by the servo is negative, more normally called a vacuum as it is below atmospheric pressure. What you should feel on your thumb is suction. I have no idea if it is normally painful or not. Regards.

I've fixed it for you (them) 🙂

So, you have two with 9/16 BSF studs and two with 16mm studs. They are stud diameters, not spanner 'across flats' dimensions. I will confess to being confused by the change from 'vehicle theft' to 'wheel theft', in my book they are two different activities. Was the recently locally stolen LR also a Series 2A? Since the advent of taper fit left hand threaded 'nut removers', and powerful battery wrenches, I had rather assumed locking wheel nuts had died a death. Whether that is right or wrong, I suppose it's not surprising that I don't know of suppliers who will invest in stock of locking wheel nuts at these very niche stud sizes. Regards.

As I understand it, the vacuum pump is trying to pull air from the servo chamber and discharge it where? I think into the crankcase. Thus if the pipe to the servo chamber is left open, the pump will do its best to pump all the air under the bonnet into the crankcase. While there is a limit as to what the pump can achieve, the crankcase could be 'pressurised', or at least have a larger than normal flow through it, possibly becoming visible by oil mist around any crankcase breathers. Regards.

I did have to look up where Annapolis is; I guessed USA but didn't recall that MD stood for Maryland. I'll start by saying that while people from across the world contribute to this forum, it is UK centric. As such I'm not sure there is enough knowledge readily available to point you to 'a better hole' (a more relevant forum). Going back to the specific (jump seat versus console) I seem to recall someone in the UK raising a problem in changing from one to the other. The summary was that 'it couldn't be done', the conclusion being that a lot of ancillary parts had to be changed (conclusion was that this made the change uneconomic). I also have a recollection that the selection list was vaguely worded, so it wasn't clear what was being 'given up' when the console option was ticked. I thought I had seen a forum topic on similar lines; turns out that I started it!! This doesn't mention a jump seat, so perhaps the only useful point is that 'Retroanaconda' is running a 90 in the UK, and has a thread detailing his experiences to date. Regards.

Quote 'He likes messing with other peoples minds'. It reads to me, considering his career and vehicle choices, that he is trialling the lifestyle. Assuming he's comfortable with people quoting the old advert about C*****ys Fruit & Nut chocolate, it only rubs me up the wrong way if he decides the taxpayers should dig him out of the hole he finds he has dug himself. Regards.

Also, if bought, you may only drive it on your private estate, if it works at all. "This vehicle is sold as a ‘non-runner’ collector’s item and is sold as seen. It is an original pre-production Land Rover Defender 110 or similar and has been modified to be capable of certain specific limited uses by trained professional stunt drivers in a controlled environment for filming only. It is not sold as a means of transport. It is not registered with the Driver Vehicle License Agency (DVLA) nor is it approved for use on any public roads or homologated. No promise is made that the vehicle is of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose, meets any road vehicle regulations, safety requirements or is otherwise roadworthy. Servicing and repairs may require bespoke and custom-built parts." Regards.

I'm not going to say it, or any similar infrared thermometer, is a poor purchase, but there are some characteristics you need to take account of. These may or may not be covered in any instructions; also I have no idea if you read them or not. The reading you get will depend on the colour and finish of the surface. Assuming all surfaces are at the same temperature, perhaps verified by a thermometer with direct surface contact: If the surface is flat and matt black you will get one reading. If the surface is flat and gloss black you will get a different reading. If the surface is flat and dull brass you will get a different reading. If the surface is flat and polished chrome you will get a different reading. The matt black will be the highest, the polished chrome will be the lowest. Next, be aware how the area being read changes with the distance from the sensor. The measured area is in the shape of a cone, the point being at the sensor, the measured area being a circle whose diameter increases as the distance from the sensor increases. I hope the instructions will give you detail, and even a diagram, to explain this. Unless you are measuring a large 'flat' area, like a domestic heating panel radiator, a 2" distance will give a higher temperature than a 6" distance. For this reason, if I'm using one on a car I try to have the head of the thermometer VERY close to the surface being measured. I will give a bit of leeway if looking at the face of a car radiator, but I'd like to be within 6", assuming there is no grill in the way. I hope this helps.