David Sparkes

For this very reason, brass nuts intended for use on manifold studs tend to be longer than standard 'steel' nuts of the same thread. On Ebay UK there are also double length brass nuts, simply to ensure all the stud is covered. That said, I've only seen them in 5/16" UNF, but I've never looked for M10 versions. Regards.

I endorse the comment by Simonb, but I note you have (had) several S2 related queries running. I'd suggest overall you join the Series 2 Club. There is an active Forum, but, if you join, there are a load of technical publications you can access and down load, both Workshop and Parts manuals. Circuit diagrams are included; the Webmaster also creates 'easy to read' variations for people 'troubled' by standard wiring diagrams. Regards.

Just out of curiosity, is the requirement for 'high' speed rotation a one off (per wheel), or is it needed immediately after the air space is penetrated (which I appreciate cannot be seen, until it's too late and the tyre goes flat)? Regards.

I feel that leaving everything in a **** state doesn't help you or anybody else to decide, or more importantly, to research, the different components. We can see that the blue thing with a white label is a 'UP9 Gear Pump' running on 12 volts. We can see that the yellow thing is marketed by Parker Hannifin, a quick Google on that name shows they are a big company that markets thousands of components. All it takes is a quick clean to possibly reveal a model or part number. I'm not saying this will suddenly reveal all the mysteries you have; I'm just using it as an obvious example of how basic housekeeping makes it easier to see the evidence. It might also help (someone else to help you) if you can say which 'utility' the vehicle was used by (water, electric, gas, railway, forestry, etc), as they might have 'in house' design characteristics around how such winches are controlled. Regards.

When I used Plus-gas I used both forms of applicator, the cheap tin for easy to reach points, the expensive spray for when the tin wasn't physically suitable. Regards.

I'll always be defeated by a Daily Mail argument! 🙂

Which style of Defender axle? I see from Gwyn Lewis that TD5 some axles had a fitting that pushed into the axles. To fit their extended breather kit the plain hole has to be tapped 12 x1.5 mm to take their fitting. https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/land-rover-defender-90-110-td5-puma-axle-breather-fittings/ Regards.

I'm with Britannia Rescue; their policy is to take you to a convenient charge point, although I suspect this might not be a 'supercharger' of some sort, even if that is your preference. I take something of a strong view on this, there should be some 'penalty' if your management is so bad that you fail to keep your vehicle charged. Personally I would be highly embarrassed if I was the driver who got into that situation, without some sort of vehicle or charge point failure. Again personally, I would try to avoid using motorway charge points as they developed a reputation for being unreliable or being 'ICEd' (blocked by an Internal Combustion Engined vehicle). Yes, I have been driving a full EV since April 2018, but only done just over 18 thousand miles. This low figure is a combination of being retired and deliberately embracing self isolation. On the other hand, before going for a full EV I looked at my typical 12 month mileage, it was around 6,000 miles, for several years. In the initial 12 months of EV ownership I recorded 7,000 miles, purely because longer distance journeys in the UK were now cheaper, so I could buy and collect parts when previously the cost of purchase plus the cost of collection made them too expensive, for me. 'Longer Distance' meaning I would need one or more recharges away from home. Regards.

You will find that in the UK, 'rider control of a Horse' is not the same as driver control of a vehicle. Yes, do look at the BHS site, but you will find that in UK law a horse is accepted as NEVER being under full and precise control like a car is. The law recognises that horses do have minds of their own and will sometimes act independently of their rider wishes. When these instances occur there is no insurance cover, in that the insurance company will refuse your claim for any occurrence where the rider is still seated, or holding the reins if the horse is being led. As I say, visit the BHS site. If you get into any future verbal exchange with a horse rider I suggest that your first action is to put your phone on video, as I expect this will also record speech. I wouldn't hold the phone 'up' in an obvious manner, it is any threatening, aggressive, and abusive language you need to record, so hold the phone down by your side, perhaps facing the hose and rider. A visual image of the rider is the second priority. It is on the basis of this evidence that you can make a complaint to the Police, if you wish to do so. It is no good deciding to make a complaint 'after the incident' if you do not have any evidence, so collecting any evidence leaves both options open, not collecting any evidence cuts out any future choice. Regarding riding on the pavement, and any pedestrian cut though, this should be passed to the local highway authority, although a note to the local Parish Council is not a totally wasted effort. The HA should be aware of any 'conditions of use' regarding these public highways. Regards.

The point I would make is not to overlook ground level support at, or close to, the non-hinged end or the door. I feel this considerably reduces the strain on the door itself, but also on the hinges and door frame when the door is fully open. I'm not so concerned about such support while the door is in transit, although that is the ideal. In the past I effected such support by use of a heavy duty 'industrial' castor wheel. Hard plastic wheel, steel support with ball bearings, and single threaded stem, about 19 / 20mm in diameter. Also think about how much snow you get, as with side hinged doors the complete ground area swept by the doors has to be cleared before the doors can be opened. Regards.

When I wanted to buy an EV, (2017) one of my selection criteria was 'would it do my longest monthly run, as a round trip, without using more than 75% of a full charge?'. If the vehicle couldn't manage that then it wasn't fit for my purposes. Two additional relevant points; I'm retired, so Social, Domestic, and Pleasure trips. I bought a home charge point, so that even if I ran the vehicle so hard it only had 9 miles range left when I returned home at night, by the time I'd had breakfast the vehicle would be fully charged and ready to go again. This has worked in practise. Obviously I paid close attention to to the domestic home tariff. What this has meant is that I have little experience of 'service station' charging. I do make longer trips, generally planning around a charging network I've learnt to rely on, and that uses a standard Debit card. I have noticed prices have increased, but they are so few and far between that the purpose of the SDP trip far outweighs the slight additional cost of not being able to charge at home. Regards.

If by isolator bush you mean the 'thing' at the very bottom of the gear lever, that engages in the selectors, I'm pretty sure that was never available from LR as a separate item, they clearly intended that you buy a complete new gear lever. It's possible that an after-market supplier like Charlesworth Mouldings, or HNJ Engineering, have designed and marketed the item, but I'd be surprised. Regards.

What model of Discovery is this? Regards.

I didn't know, I suppose the word 'Billing' has a negative association for me, so I haven't paid a lot of attention to events there. For many reasons I can't say that will change any time soon, but I hope you have a safe experience. Regards.

When you get to Billing, is this going in the public car park, the private outside camp ground, or on a Stand somewhere? My main memory of Billing is its reputation as a thieves paradise, of relevance here was the tale of a roof tent equipped Disco being in the public car park, the owners returning to find the vehicle still there, but minus the roof tent (and base frame). In the light of this you might decide not to answer my question until after you return home. Regards.

This goes against your grain, but I've always been impressed by the Machine Mart 'garage covers' but I've never bought one. I have seen a positive comment, on this forum or another, from someone who did use one. This 2022 three page thread from the forum of the Series 2 Club is relevant https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,9072.msg99698 You don't have to be a member of the club, but you might have to register for the Forum. My suspicions about any sort of 'tilt' is that they are stressed because they are on a relatively sharp edged frame; this focuses the strain at the corners. Regards.

These are links to videos, but having read the rules of that sub-forum I don't believe the CEE videos qualify. I am posting because I do know some of you are into storage racking, but perhaps not on this scale. Background. If you are not familiar with CEE and their videos, CEE is a two person outfit, the engineer and his wife. She shoots and compiles the videos, both for content and speed. It's sometimes worth letting the video roll after the end credits because that's where the outakes are displayed. Whilst the main video is family friendly, the outakes contain swearing. Most of the videos are about industrial repair of earthmoving equipment, involving lathe work and welding (a lot of welding, wire feed speeds of 5, 6, or even 7 metres per minute are not uncommon). Regards.

In that context, there is one of these in use by the Ecclesbourne Valley Railway, based around Wirksworth in Derbyshire. I am 'local' but have no practical involvement with the railway, I've just seen occasional pictures in the weekly reports which sometimes cover the Permanent Way team. The website doesn't seem to display a photograph.

For the A+ engine the thermostat housing changed; an insert housing was placed between the head and the actual thermostat housing, the top of which had a small diameter bleed hose spigot pointing horizontally. Clearly longer studs were required. The primary purpose of the insert housing was to contain a heater outlet spigot, to take a 5/8"ID heater hose. Remember the A+ came in with the Metro, which had a full flow heater matrix, and a separate expansion tank, to which the small diameter bleed hose went. The full flow heater matrix became the bypass circuit for when the thermostat was closed. I converted a BMC Mini A Series to the A+ spec, doing away with the heater tap but retaining the BMC Mini heater box. In the summer the heater box, with the outlet flaps closed, became a hot box, but as this was in the UK, and windows could be opened, this 'excess' heat was never a problem. Blanking plugs were used to block off any bypass hose openings.The other advantage of using the matrix in full flow is that the matrix did not become a dead end reservoir into which any casting sand, rust, etc was dropped due to poor flow of the coolant. It was the build up of this rubbish that restricted the standard Mine heater matrix, and gave the reputation of BMC Minis having poor heaters. Regards.

Might be missing condensation due to temperature change. If condensation affects tanks for liquid fuel it can affect chassis, plus I think it will be a brave person who will claim they can weld a chassis to be a total vacuum (air tight). Regards.

That is the basic standard test that the servo is working. As the engine starts the vacuum increases, the brake line pressure increases, so the movable parts move more. That seems like partial failure of the main seal in the master cylinder, allowing the fluid back past the seal. Regards.

Regarding steering shafts, the most significant difference is that 'early' ones, where the wheel has multiple thin spokes, has a cross bolt to pinch the boss of the wheel. As the bolt crosses the shaft the shaft has a groove across the splined section, the bolt fitting in the groove. It follows that the bolt has to be completely withdrawn from the boss before the wheel can be slid along the splines. The later wheels have three thicker spokes, and are retained by a single nut in the centre of the wheel boss. The double coil spring washer fits behind the wheel boss. You should register yourself with the LRW (Land Rover Workshop) website because once you look up a part you can scroll down to see an exploded diagram which includes the part you want information about. Thus you may see the other object you have pictured. Regards.

I like the oil temperature and pressure on one gauge, I think that is usable across a wide range of cars. EGT & Boost has a more restricted market place. Regards.

Remember when looking in parts manuals, a heater come under optional equipment; you need the appropriate manual. Regards.

I strongly disagree. I have already explained why the arm MAY touch the bulkhead before the rest of the steering linkage is installed and correctly adjusted. 'May touch' depends on the fitting discrepancies of the bulkhead and steering box to the chassis. The figure of 81 degrees is impossible to achieve, 81 is a clerical error. When the offset is applied on later Series 2A, and the Series 3 models, the offset is 'one spline' on the shaft of the steering relay. Examination will show there are 44 splines on both ends of the relay shaft and, unless the shaft is in failure mode, and has twisted prior to snapping, the splines are in the same register at each end of the shaft. Divide 44 into 360 and you will never get the angularity of a single spline to be 9 degrees. Regards.