David Sparkes

The Trailwise ID of Moscar Cross Road is SK2288-02 , which gives the 1km square the route is in. The most recent comments reflect what the pictures show. Older comments show conditions have been variable for some time (years). "Driven 01/Jun/2019 uphill in Panda 4x4, dry conditions, ruts easily straddled. Good views." 6 months earlier: "27.01.2019. Group of 2 Nissan X-trails. Approached from bottom of hill, far too wet and muddy for our road tyres to get any purchase at all. Had to give up.". I don't have much TRO history, in April / May 2013 Sheffield Highway Authority closed the route for repair, but this was only 2 weeks. Regards.

That probably reflects the level of readership of both forums. The GLASS forum has just been restarted; this was around the end of November 2021. Members had to re-login as new Forum members, but using their existing GLASS ID. As I'm not 'GLASS Management' I don't have a clear handle on the background to this, although I do know I had not been a regular user. Regards.

It seems somewhat cliched to say 'times change', but they always do, from goods carried by back pack (pedlars), by mule, horse and cart then car / van / lorry. From footpath, bridleway, cart track, turnpike, then 'road', with surfaces changing from 'natural' to stoned, tarmac, etc. We have to change also, from regarding other green lane users as colleagues / fellow travellers, to recognising we do not share the same views about social and anti-social behaviour. We should not be so reluctant to call out anti-social behaviour, or just leave it to the anti-motorists. Basically I will repeat the advice given by anti-motorist groups to their members on how to deal with motorised users abusing bridleways etc. The Police will be doing any prosecuting, and they need evidence. While avoiding obvious confrontation this means images from still cameras or video (dash-cam) footage. Obviously registration numbers seem the clearest option, but, certainly in the case of motorcyclists, 'dress' is worthwhile to build a case, as vehicle colour scheme (stickers), outer clothing, and helmets are often re-used. I'm most familiar with Derbyshire, and their Rural Crime Team (RCT) will certainly use this information. Be aware of two things, one shot is rarely fatal, but each shot builds a picture until a tipping point is reached, so do not despair if no action is taken immediately, but DO keep contributing evidence; you don't know what other information the Police already have, or will collect 'next week'. If contributing Dash-cam footage, be aware that someone may view everything on the memory store, including excessive speed etc, so do not shoot yourself in the foot. You cannot be hypocritical and complain about people breaking laws you do like, while expecting your own illegal actions to be 'excused'. Nationally, I understand more and more Police forces will accept reports via dash-cams, some even have specific email addresses for such contributions. The other contribution to the battle is Section 59 orders. These apply to BOTH the driver and the vehicle independently, so if the driver is caught a second time, but driving a different vehicle, the order will be effective and the second vehicle taken away and crushed. Similarly, if the original vehicle is seen a second time, but with a different driver, the vehicle will be taken away and crushed. Currently there is no appeal against a Section 59 notice (I seem to recall a recent article, perhaps in the GLASS magazine, covering this point). Be squeaky clean when driving your 4x4, or powered 2 wheeler, or lose the moral high ground. The antis are after everyone, not just the 'group of 15'. The cache of marked up maps is not just a social history, but also a sound basis to create a new record, whether on modern paper maps or a GPX record, to be used on whichever electronic mapping system you care to use. Databases such as TW2 (the only one I'm familiar with) provide an expedient way to do this update / conversion. If you do decide to give up green-laning, so be it, but I'd encourage anyone to think positively about the enjoyment you have had, and shared with others. Regarding Salisbury Plain, an area I have no experience of, be aware that GLASS has, for come years, an ongoing project to work with the Wardens of that area to ensure clear signage. Regards.

Pick a nearby town or village, recognised by OS, and enter that in TW2 as a Search term. Hitchin returns two alternatives, Hitchin and Hitchin Hill. The map will centre on which one you choose. Using the 'on map' controls zoom out to see those routes in the vicinity, but do recognise that there is a choice of 2 route designations, BOAT and UCR. You need to make that choice. The highway authority can also be displayed, as a clue to which online definitive map you might want to look at, but these maps do not form part of the TW2 database. You can select both route designations at the same time At the appropriate zoom level some routes have a Yellow warning triangle. Clicking on any route brings up the Details page which contains user comments. In the basic Hitchin area, picking one at random (TL1628-02), the Restriction Detail is 'Likely of no interest - See comments against lane', the comment says 'Paved road with regular passing points, fairly high traffic, locals use as a rat run it seems', which is reasonable guidance. Users can choose one of various background maps as a Base Layer. Last point, if puzzled by anything, read the FAQs. These are developing all the time, and are biassed towards giving information that helps users. Making FAQ answers effective saves the TW support team being bombarded by repeated questions. The support team are volunteers, not employees. Note that any route designations that you may have on previous maps may well have altered. TL1628 is obviously an OS two letter four figure Grid reference, so a one kilometre square. The -02 refers to the actual route within that square. In previous examples a route might be split to reflect any split in HA numbering. In TW2, if two routes are normally driven together only one TW designation will be applied, thus reflecting practical use. Edited to add in a snippet I had forgotten about, the downside of continuous improvement 🙂 Under Mapping Tools we are informed that : You can view your GPX routes by simply dragging your GPX file onto the map. Included because GPX routes might just have been part of your most recent route planning. Regards.

Yes, I am a current member, and have been for some years. Although I have supported them by assisting to organise submissions to local Public Inquiries I have always declined to join the officials in any sort of recognised capacity, so this is written mainly from knowledge gained as an individual member. Although the TRF were invited to join into the development of Trailwise, they declined. GLASS therefore went ahead on their own, paying professionals to create the working database and interface, while relying on member reports to provide the essential data. Trailwise became popular, GLASS has put more investment into it to create TW2, and it is probably the biggest single driver in terms of increased membership, and therefore income. This in turn has allowed GLASS to take on more projects in terms of battling the naysayers and offering practical support to those Highway Authorities who recognise they can benefit from specialist assistance. The AGM was held in December 2021, so I feel I can quote an element of the Report to Members made at that AGM, feeling it is, or will be soon, in the Public domain. Since 2019, due to the unprecedented increase in membership and remit of the Green Lane Association, internal focus has shifted to the structure of the organisation. Setting the business on the right track to be stable and fit for purpose going forward has become more important than ever. In 2021 we have taken on more legal cases than ever before. Currently we are working on ten live section 56 actions, with many more ready to go when funds and officers time allow. The most important aspects of our work are time dependant and require significant knowledge and experience of rights of way law to keep the authorities on their toes and the momentum going. Without dedicated staff and the ability to act quickly cases were at risk of falling by the wayside, so this year we took the bold decision to up scale the organisation and employ two staff on PAYE. Already this has increased productivity exponentially as those staff are confident to carry out their duties on a daily basis for the organisation. Yes I do think membership is worth it, and while TW2 can never be perfect (as reports of lane use are by ordinary members, even if vetting is by Officers of GLASS) TW2 is vastly better than anything that went before. I hope this helps, David.

I assumed in this case that the 'hybrid' moniker is a personal thing, and not official as it seems to be with EVs with IC engines as well as the electric. I'm guessing this example earned its 'hybrid' status because it's Series 2 bodywork on a chassis / running gear belonging to something else. I'm afraid I have alerted the forum of the Series 2 Club that there's a stack of S2 body panels available. I just cannot judge if taken together with the 200TDI engine the whole is worth anything like £5.5k. I suppose it depends on the individual situation of the purchaser. I take the view that as a road going vehicle it's a ridiculous waste of time. Regards.

I note that one says Left hand while the other says Right hand. I also note that the 'suitable for years ...' differ between the two products. I'm not that familiar with the base vehicle, so cannot judge how significant that is, but there is some chance you are not comparing like with like. I also observe that one will just swing fore and aft, while the cable style has the opportunity to swing side ways slightly. It strikes me that this will be easier to use if the occupant is large enough to 'overlap' the seat base, or is wearing bulky clothing. Are both styles designed for floor mounting? In my experience the more rigid style of pivot (fore and aft) is found on female belt buckles incorporated into the seat frame, while the cable variety are usually found on on floor mounts. Regards.

The first question that springs to mind is ... Are you doing the dismantling outside or inside? Same question applies to the storage of 'parts to sell' and 'parts to keep'. Regards.

Having owned a 1995 LR model that had electric windows, from LR .... What you are fitting now is certainly illegal now, and was probably illegal then, if installed by the manufacturer. They have to allow that children might be involved, either in pressing the button, or in lacking the self preservation instincts they will hopefully go on to develop. Nowadays the control system has to recognise if the window stops 'early', and reverse the movement for a second or so, so that the 'screamer' can remove their fingers from the trap. As a private individual you can of course carry on as you are. Regards.

It appears that to read the D2 thread you need to be a member of 'the boys'. Regards.

Anti-burst locks appear to be held in the 'Optional Equipment' catalogues. In the main these seem to cover S2 and S3 in the same book. Where Anti-burst locks are shown the illustrations are marked S3 only. As you want S3 fitments that should be OK for you. I can see that while the S3 Parts List has an Optional Equipment section, this is mainly concerned with Towing Equipment. The Australian Supplement is text only, but only covers DeTox equipment. The USA supplement DOES cover the Anti-Burst locks. So, it seems from the S3 lists you either want the US Spec Supplement, S2A & S3, or you want an Optional Equipment catalogue, typically 'S2A & S3 Optional Eqmt. Sept 1988, Part No. RTC9842CE', although the suffix letters can change, CD being an option I've seen. Regards.

In this context, what is meant by IPL? Regards.

Which is precisely the situation I foresaw in my earlier post. However, I still think the battery isolator is the solution to use. They will learn to avoid shooting themselves in their respective feet - hopefully! Regards.

Now we have a clearer view of the circumstances, I suggest a battery isolation switch to leave the charged battery totally disconnected, but still take the NOCO Boost Sport GB20 500 Amp along when she does want to use the car, until she is confident the new regime works for her. This does presume she remembers to open the bonnet and throw the switch everytime she leaves the car. Regards.

I would say the answer depends on how much oil you find in the swivel (how much the level is below the lower edge of the fill port). Rebuilding the swivels (which tends to go with changing the swivel seal) is an essential element when it comes to running a Series machine so I would only down rate the job if (say) the brakes have stopped working. Regards.

That looks like a 'normal' situation for Series LRs. The swivel seal is leaking (has leaked), but it is so common that all the parts required are easily available. Regards.

Fortunately I have a 2000ce version to look at. When I bought my ex-mil 109 the mirrors had the style of mount as per the M200, although they aren't Ashtree heads. On the ~50 mile journey home they were a right pain, as even a 50mph draft on the A1 highway swung the mirror head on the stem. I bought the 7x5 Ashtree M2000 mirrors via PartsGB, they also do 10x6 versions. I haven't installed them yet because of various other issues with the vehicle. However, they were sitting in the spares box waiting to be fitted, so ... The two screws holding the cap on screw into metal inserts in the large diameter 'tube' that goes between the cap and the back of the mirror head. The cap and the internal stucture of the 'tube' do clamp the head to the stem, and the rotation is only 'side to side'. When these screws are fully removed the cap falls off, (as does the mirror head from the stem). Revealed is a single screw inside the 'tube' that clamps the tube to the mirror head. The tube is long enough and wide enough that even my weak arthritic fingers can grasp the tube and pivot it on the curved shape on the back of the head. This allows up and down tilt movment of the head. I do rather assume that the tightness of the single screw is a matter of judgement; tight enough to stop movement in use, but loose enough to allow adjustment. I see the relatively large diameter of the tube as giving enough surface area friction to resist 'movement in use' without the screw being so tight it prevents adjustment As I say, I could just move the tube with the tightness set by the factory, and I will certainly install it initially without altering the screw tightness. I don't have any pictures of this internal arrangement. Looking again at the pictures on the Ashtree link I included in my previous post I can easily believe that the mirror head is the same in each case, it's the head to stem mounting which changes, M200 to M2000. Regards

It was the M2000CE design I was thinking of being better quality. Regards.

There are various 'mods' available, from installing Defender style door hinges (upper and lower, otherwise the pivot lines are not inline), to modifying the standard Series 2 hinges by welding on the mirror mounting plates that reproduce the original hinges of this design, which are no longer available. Sometimes these hinges are referred to as Military, but while the Military may have made use of them, they were available to the Civilian market. IIRC the best parts diagram is in the 110 / 2B forward control listing. In this context do not read 110 as a Defender model. There is a UK chap on the forum of the Series2Club who will undertake this modification for a modest sum, on an 'as required' basis. This does mean that the hole for the mirror stem can be drilled to the size to match the mirror arm you intend to use. The cost of modification is modest, the cost of 'new' hinges is not. The UK supplier of choice in terms of quality is probably Ashtree, who have a variety of mirror heads available. Using these will deal with the concern of visible rusty bits. I cannot comment on size preferences / suitability. Regards.

Possibly the Suez event referred to was the container ship stuck in the bank for some time. Regards.

I took NJ to mean New Jersey (USA). I thought this was supported by the vegetation in the picture, and the phrase 'overgrown lot'. I was uncertain whether it should be a compliment to the 'stretch' of LR4X4 or an indication the John really was at the edge of the deepend (swimming pool). If John wants a more US centric forum I'm not sure what to suggest. Regards.

If you take the belt off the water pump will not rotate, so I wouldn't recommend that. To wire it up you will need a vehicle battery, the alternator uses the battery voltage as a reference voltage. Without this reference the alternator could run up to 16 or more volts, damaging itself. Battery positive to the alternator output terminal(s). Battery negative to the alternator case (given all the blue paint I'd suggest this connection be clamped between the alternator case and one of the mounting brackets). IND terminal via a 2.2W lamp to battery positive. You can insert a switch in this lead, (switch on before running the engine) or just disconnect the lead when you aren't running the engine. Without a switch the IND light will glow all the time the engine isn't running. The current flowing through the illuminated lamp is the 'exciting' current for the magnetic field generated by the rotor. Without this current the magnetic field will be low, meaning little alternator output, BUT there will be some residual magnetic field in the rotor, spin it fast enough and the alternator will self excite, creating the abnormally high voltage. Regards

It seems you are unaware of the reported danger, to the alternator, of running it while not connected to an electrical load? (I cannot see any wiring on the back of the alternator). The hesitation on throttle opening may be influenced by running without the correct air cleaner in place. Regards.

What are you measuring on the Ohms range? To put it another way, where are the test leads connected when you are using the Ohms range? Regards.

OK, for the LT230 transfer box that nut is listed as NY120041L • Nut-hexagonal-nyloc-M20. Checking just in case, the same nut is shown for the LT77S and the LT85. Land Rover Workshop says the part number has been updated to NY120046. Online searching suggests a M20 nut should be 30mm AF. These NY120041L nuts are used in various places, follow the link and scroll down. Test fit your 30mm socket on these other nuts, if it's also loose I can only suggest looking for a new 6 point socket (rather than a 12 point) as these will still drive even if a less than perfect fit. Regards.