David Sparkes

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Auto-Factory-Manuals Item Summary - Cars, Parts & Vehicles Literature Type: Workshop Manuals Media Type: CD Vehicle Type: Cars Manufacturer: Land Rover Model: Defender Year: 2002, 2001, 2000, 1999 Pity it misses the 2007 year that Mack was asking about. Cheers.

Previously I looked at an 'Export' version of the ETM (1997 Export, 6th Edition). Now I've looked at an 'English' version (1997 4th Edition). In Warnings and Indicators', Section E2 in this version, it shows the SRS Indicator Control Circuit of the Instrument Cluster, that deals with the SRS lights (Yes, two of them). The connector to this is a flat 5 way connector (C223), with only three wires (Green, Purple, and Slate). Did you spot such a loose connector behind the Instrument Panel? The location picture shows it unplugged. In the Workshop Manual the SRS section contains: "Two different SRS systems are fitted to Discovery. The Distributed SRS which has two crash sensors located in the engine compartment on the chassis longitudinals and the Single Point Sensing (SPS) SRS which has a single crash sensor located in the Airbag diagnostic control unit. The change from distributed SRS to SPS SRS occurred at VINs 198222 and 528977." Comparing your VIN with the information, would you expect to find twin sensors within the engine compartment? Cheers

An interesting question!! I don't have direct experience of a Discovery 1, as Steve obligingly identied this as, so I'm just 'reading the books' that happen to be included in a RAVE CD. The Owners manual effectively says there can be one or two airbags, Driver only, or Driver and Passenger. Do both exist in your car? The Owners Manual also confirms the SRS warning light as below the digit 3 of the tachometer (to the left of the speedo). On the basis of what you have found so far (no hole for a warning light), I think it would be useful to check for an 'Air Bag Diagnostic Control Module' situated in the centre console, to the rear of the handbrake lever. The ETM tells us that it is this ECU which sends the illumination signal to the Instrument Console. I'm working round to 'proving' the SRS was never fitted, and a previous owner fitted the SRS steering wheel because they liked it, or something!! Now here's interesting. The ETM mentions the SRS system, and in section E3, Warning Lights and Indicators (NAS), it mentions the SRS light, BUT, there is no separate section for the SRS, and in neither E3 or E1, Instruments, does it show an SRS warning light. As a matter of interest, do you have the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual for this car? There must be more to this, but I'll post this first as 'the story so far', it may prompt comment from others.

Recognising we are just tossing ideas about, not completing a full design in 5 minutes. Most vehicles (I've seen) for disabled people don't have the rider astride the vehicle, presumably this is a mount / dismount issue. Thus I'd say look at mobility scooters as a design basis. I'd also go for very big rear drive wheels (motorbike wire spoked, to prove the design?) with a deep sidewall, these would be better to ride / drive over rough terrain, and with suitable tyres (I'm not sure where from, sand tyres perhaps) might do away with the need for suspension, and it's weight disdvantage. Because of the diameter and the need to give elbow room without snagging them in the wheel, the rear axle would be pushed further back, increasing the wheelbase. This would give more stability on gradients, which is a positive move, IMHO. You will appreciate there are already commercial 'off road' wheelchairs / mobility scooters. Somewhere I've seen reference to an organisation that puts two or three in a covered trailer, delivering them to car parks for people to use. HTH

Gemsbok, some interesting and useful points from outside the usual UK centric view. As a matter of interest, in the circumstances you describe and experience, what is the viability of manuals on a CD, and therefore needing some sort of player to access? Or manuals on a small storage device, such as a PDA? My view of the UK is that while UK enthusiasts, such as the bulk of the people on this forum, will accept packing a laptop or PDA as almost common, the average UK LR user would object to such an expensive and technical answer. Of course, they are much closer to viable external support, so self reliance is not such an issue. Cheers.

Re the correct direction to turn the fixing. You say 'bolt', do you mean a male bolt, screwing into a female thread? The fan VCs I've come across have an internally threaded female nut on the back of the VC (back = furthest from the radiator, closest to the water pump). In these cases the shaft of the pump has an external thread, and takes the place of the 'bolt'. Thus, with a LH thread, and if your 'turning to the right' is as viewed from the front of the car, then I'd say you are turning the nut in the correct direction. However, Left and Right are always open to mis-interpretaion, depending if you are viewing from the front of the engine, or viewed from the UK convention of 'from the drivers seat'. I prefer therefore to say you always undo the nut in the same direction the fan normally rotates. ALWAYS. In order to create the neccessary self tightening functionality, the designer will decide on the basis of the belt run which direction the pump and fan will turn, and therefore the 'hand' of the thread, so these are givens. The rule 'loosen in the same direction the fan rotates' applies whatever decision the designer made. If your VC is retained by a bolt, then I'm not sure what 'rule' will apply, because I can't immediately see how a self tightening design can be incorporated with a bolt style retainer. HTH

My Heritage CD is labelled IIA and IIB, 1961 to 1971, so strictly doesn't cover your question. However, it does prompt a couple. Basic or Station Wagon? Petrol or Diesel? Wheelbase? In case no one else chips in, from the Owners Manual shown on the CD I've described .... Weights range from a low of 2,800 lbs for a Basic Petrol 88", to a high of 3,947 for a Diesel 109" Station Wagon. I see there is a Heritage CD for the SII, 1958 to 1961, so there is a chance of more appropriate information. Cheers

Note the notched belt in the pictures, The advantage of this design is that the belt is more flexible, thus wrapping better around small pullies, and being able to transmit more power, than a conventional V belt. Thus, if sticking with a V belt, as opposed a multivee serpentine belt, try to find a notched belt. HTH

Probably without you realising it, what you are asking can be re-phrased as: Has anyone paid to subscribe to the Land Rover Global Technical Resource, taken the time and trouble to download all the Workshop and Electrical Manuals, plus any Technical Bulletins and Service Recalls, then paid to host a site where I can take them for free, while the site holder hopes Land Rover don't prosecute them for copyright infringement on documentation for current models? Phrased like that, you see why the answer might be 'No'. The good news is that you, as a private individual, can take out a subscription, for a fairly short term, and do the intensive download of 'everything' before the subscription expires. http://www.landrovertechinfo.com/extlrprod/index.jsp The hosting it all for free, etc, is optional :-) I run obsolete models, so am not faced with these decisions.

Yes, you could use one outlet with the oiler, and one not. Exactly how you control the pressure on both lines, I'm not certain. Most of the Machine Mart tools specify a pressure of 90 psi, or thereabouts. If you regulate to that, or my suggested 80, the tanks starts at 120 and falls over a minute or so to the lower pressure. You don't notice this change as the tool always sees the same pressure. Only after the tank drops below your regulated pressure do you see the effect. With an unregulated output the tool starts fast and slows down all the time; this lack of control becomes irritating with some tools, and might render the paint sprayer useless (MIGHT). The effect of loss of Pressure / Flow with the regulator? The effect is there, but slight. Given that the regulator flows reasonably well, the advantage of control outweighs the 'cost' of regulation. Might slow the Impact wrench if you are trying to crack wheel nuts from tight. The saw might stall if doing long cuts in 2mm steel (Chassis). Die Grinder will run out of steam sooner, mind you, the abrasive bits won't last 5 minutes of use anyway. Well say 10, to cover myself. I don't know about the air drill. Also be aware that while the quick release connections look similar to the common PCL units found at Machine Mart, they are not compatable. The screw-in threads are, but not the quick release end. Use the compressor with the Aldi tools, and you will be OK. Buy tools elsewhere and you will find yourself looking for a MM VAT free day so you can buy up to a dozen ends, and a roll or three of PTFE tape. Cheers

If the flow is 270 litres per min, instead of the quoted 27 lpm, that is 9.5 cfm, which on a 2.5 kw motor probable equates to what other people claim, although I haven't checked for certain. "on the shot blaster, what is the recyclebly bag about because the sand shoots out the end so it wouldnt catch anything would it?" With a spot blaster the black plastic nozzle you can see is held against the panel that is being spot cleaned. The 'toughened' steel nozzle is at the gun end of the plastic nozzle. Most of the grit therefore drops to the bottom of the plastic nozzle after it bounces off the panel. They have different plastic nozzles so you can select one that does not overlap the edge of the panel, thus you 'never' blow the blasating media into free space. I've not used one, but that's the theory, which I'll probably be able to prove anytime after Thursday :-)) I use a free standing air filter and regulator. I find it gives more consistant performance if I regulate the pressure down to say 80 psi near the point of use (the other end of the whip hose). Used like that you could use the oiler as well, it's a cost effective way of doing it. I don't use an oiler at the compressor end of the hose, as I don't want the long hose to be contaminated with oil. So yes, starting from scratch, I'd go for that. Do be aware that any regulator / Filter etc will reduce the maximum airflow, but you have to accept this, or spend a lot more money. I'd use the 3m hose in that kit as a whip hose between the oiler and the tools, that can be contaminated with oil. You will need an uncontaminated hose for paint spraying, spot blasting, and perhaps undersealing. I'm not sure about stapling. The 10 M hose in the kit will do for that. It does say you can split the regulator away from the oiler if required. This assumes you buy the hose on a reel as the main hose from the compressor to the filter regulator. If you buy the speed saw it is better to cut down 12" blades that buy the special short ones. I can't comment on the air gun / ratchet run time as I don't use mine for that. HTH

This point was covered before: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...st&p=233388 "It doesn't matter whether the original diff is 2 pinion or 4 pinion. Ashcroft transmissions supply 4 pinion ones that are a universal fit." Cheers.

I think you mean what Frost's call a Bead Former. http://preview.tinyurl.com/25v9j5 Frosts are not the cheapest place, in my experience, but it should give you a starting point, and perhaps some fruitful alternative Search Terms. An alternative idea, depending on your skill, is to run a line of weld around the tube. My understanding is that the bead doesn't form the sea to the hose. The clamp forms the seal, squeezing the hose onto the smooth pipe. The bead is to stop the clamp sliding off the pipe, so providing the weld doesn't damage the hose as it slides over, the bead doesn't have to be perfectly regular. HTH

I know it's 'following someone about', but in the first of the 'new' Difflock magazine there is an article where the Difflock people joined a tour. http://www.difflock.com/magazine/

Now you have the regulator part number, you can Google that. http://www.connectstores.com/lr/sp_35020.html http://www.gce4x4.com/cvf100740-p38-front-...-side-p-33.html http://www.connectstores.com/lr/sp_35020.html show alternative pictures. Any of these people may also have the Door Outstation AMR3358 Door Outstation AMR3358, try any suitable scrapyard. Ebay has several - http://preview.tinyurl.com/34dq8h Also try any of these for regulators, though you might have to ask, if they are secondhand they may not ebay them, and you aren't looking for a 5 year life span. You also know what the teeth on a worn regulator look like. Watch the P&P charges, it may be cheaper to source both items from one place.

The Heated Seat problems are very very unlikely to be connected to any problem with the windows. Certainly from your description so far, there is no connection between the two. A new regulator might be over £100.00, go to the Rimmer Bros site and search in the catalogue. Rimmers list most things. http://preview.tinyurl.com/2ofvvw Part Number CVF100740 Description REGULATOR-ELECTRIC Retail Price £122.96 inc. VAT Part Number CVF100740P Description REGULATOR-ELECTRIC Retail Price £76.38 inc. VAT I don't know exactly what the difference is, one will be 'Land Rover', the other will be 'Pattern'. Phone and ask Rimmers Use nuts and bolts instead of rivits. Re the passenger window, if it won't set folowing the standard procedure I can only guess it's a problem with the door outstation. Starting with the window fully closed you hold the down button continuously, until the windows stalls at the bottom for a second. Then hold the up button continuously, until the window stalls at the top for a second.

"I've looked at this door outstation thingy ... " Did you look at the regulator teeth while you had the door card off? To see them you need to wind the window partially down, as you are looking at the teeth very near the end of the track.

Re heated mirrors and seats, my earlier comments apply. You, or the purchaser needs a RAVE CD to take DIY any further. Re the door windows, I've answered in your other thread, again the manual helps with DIY. Re someone coming to see it, I suggest you spend today getting prices for having the problems sorted, so you can make an informed decision when it comes to negotiating the price.

"the front drivers door window goes up and down but when going up if you hold the button in it keeps driving" Presumably you get a loud banging when 'it keeps driving'? If so this is the motor drive gear slipping on the worn regulator. The answer is a new regulator. You cannot 'set' the window if the motor does not stall, which it never will if the gears slip. "message saying window not set ..... getting same message on front passenger window too except it doesn't try to keep driving" Probably, you are not holding the switch operated for long enough when the window is in the stalled position. You have to invoke a definate stall at both extremes, when fully open and when fully closed. 5 seconds is too long (unneccessary), 1 to 2 seconds is correct. HTH

"my car get's a good deal of use on the M25/A3m ......" Thanks for that warning, I'll keep well away :-) Obviously, from my response you have realised that M1 Derbyshire doesn't 'enjoy' the same circumstances. From Junction 27 Southwards they have even imposed 50mph limits, with average speed cameras, while they widen the road to 4 lanes (each way, even !!). Thus we have to learn patience, I think for the next two years. The speed limit does tend to be observed by a large proportion of traffic, so opportunities for expressing individuality are limited. "a distance you can only see the roof out the rear door at 90 plus." I've been told a NATO hook, painted bright Yellow, plus the natural braking of a diesel on a closed throttle, helps in these circumstances :-)) Looks like you are stuck with mid to high twenties. Cheers

As an 'outsider' (I don't run a TD5) I'll comment that your Motorway cruising speed of 75 is too fast for best economy in a brick shaped car. Get out of the lane 3 rat race, run at 65ish, be prepared to drop the speed temporarily while the car / van in front completes a manouvre, instead of impatiently swinging into lane 3 and blasting past, muttering about 'old women', and you will get better economy. The choice is yours :-) Cheers

"It is the devils own job to get the big brass plug out the bottom to drain the oil." The implication here is that it's been tightened with a 3 Weetabix grunt in an effort to stop it leaking. Get some new copper washers, or brake cleaner and blue Hylomar, and use less grunt. It depends on how badly the slot has been chewed, but either find an existing tool that fits well, to the base of the slot, or shape a piece of 12 to 15" length of steel to fit both the width and depth of the slot. About an inch away from the shaped end, bend the steel at right-angles, and you have a custom tool that will limit your ability to over tighten the plug. HTH

I'm surprised that Hardy Spicer UJs aren't available from Dingocroft, as they normally carry 'quality' stuff. It isn't my local store though. Paddock Spares have both sorts of UJ's, one of them being Hardy Spicer. Just make sure you specify them when you order. Buying from a motor factors local to you will save on postage, of course. I have blown a rear diff. It you remove the rear propshaft you can drive around in front wheel drive. I think I did about 150 miles. Beware the handbrake won't hold on a hill as the VC continually slips, unless it's broken into a seized state. If it is a diff failure you won't have damaged the half shafts, although they will have to come out to change the diff. When they do you will need to make up a rag on a stick the clean the tubes of any metal shards that may be there. Fitting new axle seals will be good advice. It doesn't matter whether the original diff is 2 pinion or 4 pinion. Ashcroft transmissions supply 4 pinion ones that are a universal fit. Tailgate straps - get a part number and Google that, and ask at whoever is local to you. Don't ignore the Dealer. If you know anywhere that deals with wire rope, ask if they will swage new ends on for you. HTH

JimC, thanks for the pointer. For UK readers, '837' appears to be a generic term, the full 837 range is specified on this page, together with the appropriate complete part numbers. http://www.flexible-lamps.co.uk/Catalogue/Products/837.htm If I read this correctly, the purchaser specifies each lamp as a 'pod', then specifies the 'bezel' appropriate to how he wants to install them on his vehicle. My best guess is that, starting from scratch (ie, without NAS lights installed already) we would specify one 'bezel for single function' for EACH pod. In one of those ironic twists of fate, the Dun-Bri links Simonb put up in post 20 are for the Perei lights that ECR positively prefer not to supply (read the East Coast Rover link put up by JimC in post 25). Dun-Bri do stock Rubbolite Products, but not the 837 range. http://preview.tinyurl.com/2ethxt As a matter of interest to JimC, and other NAS readers, try this snippet, note the date. "November 30, 2006 Falconer New York : It was announced today that Truck-Lite Co. Inc. of Falconer New York has purchased Flexible Lamps Ltd of Harlow, England. Marketing under the Rubbolite and FL brand names, Flexible Lamps is a major manufacturer of incandescent and LED lighting for the commercial vehicle market. Terms of the acquisition were not disclosed." The full press release is at http://www.flexible-lamps.co.uk/News/main.htm So with a bit of luck you might be able to source the lights you want without paying 'import' prices. Sorry to ECR, but the gravy train has to stop sometime :-)) HTH

I agree, the same thought has crossed my mind. You have shown yourselves to be open to new ideas (CAD library) but whatever is suggested, in the end some 'bodies' have to run it, day in, day out, and it depends very much on what those 'bodies' feel comfortable with. Hopefully we have learnt for the next time, so that even if the next new idea is proposed in the open forum before the Mods have had a chance to consider the implications, we can delay public consultation until you have had that chance. Cheers.