David Sparkes

There isn't a limit switch you can see, it's the 'magic box of tricks'. Depending on who you speak to, it either checks when the motor stops turning, and cuts the power, or it monitors the current draw, and when this rises as a result of the stall, cuts the power. Obviously, it must know somehow that the limit has not been reached, so it can react to the trap finger business without resetting the window, but also close firmly when the position is reached. With firm hand pressure you can stop the window half way up. However, it is immaterial how it works. That 'beating itself to death' is the worn drive slipping (gears jumping), normally cured by replacing the drive quadrant and arm assembly. Some people say they have cut out a strip of unused teeth and welded them in to replace the worn ones, but I haven't seen this done. The original fit window arms are rivited to the door skin. Replacements are normally bolted in. I've only read about it, never done it.

The perfect stocking filler for Christmas. This calendar has been produced by the Peak & Dukeries Land Rover club, in aid of charity to support Cancer Research UK, and the County Air Ambulance Inc Notts & Lincs Air Ambulance . All the girls are club members, and have given their time, support, and goodwill, to these very commendable charities. Please help us to provide them with the funds they desperately need. Thanks. Have good Christmas and a healthy New Year. I appreciate we are past the last posting day for pre Christmas Delivery, nevertheless, it might fill wall space of yours', or someone else. http://preview.tinyurl.com/yoy3gx Thankyou. Moderators, I'd appreciate it if this could live in International for a couple of days at least, even if it 'should' have gone in the Classifieds!! But if it must move, to inhibit a rash of worhy cause appeals, so be it. Cheers.

"Just 'cos you've changed the stat don't assume it will work " A valid point, but bad news. Have you seen the price of a 38A 4.0/4.6 V8 thermostat octopus? Paddock Spares doesn't list one, Rimmer Bros charge over £52.00 inc VAT http://preview.tinyurl.com/22wafg Cheers. PS, Just spotted they do a cheap version at less than £25.00!! http://preview.tinyurl.com/22sm3k

Earlier you said "the interior heaters give out no heat untill I am moving. " and I surmised air in the matrix. Now you say "the hoses to and from the matrix get HOT.", but is this during filling and bleeding the system? If so, I'm not too surprised as the system is designed to circulate coolant via the heater matrix BEFORE the thermostat opens. However, if the hoses to and from the matrix get HOT during filling & bleeding, AND the interior heaters give out no heat until you are moving, then there is another problem. This could be that the interior fans aren't starting up straight away. The detail control comes from the HEVAC ECU programme, but there is an overall control by a thermostat attached to the solid matrix pipework within the cabin. If this has fallen off or become dislodged, or failed within itself, it will not tell the HEVAC ECU there is heat to be used, so the ECU keeps the fan speed low. There are pictures about this thermostat on the RangeRovers.net site. Another possible cause is that the interior temperature sensor is 'insulated' by fluff, and thus giving a misleading reading to the HEVAC ECU. This sensor is behind the grill, beneath the clock. Use a torch and 'bent pin' to look behind the grill and hook out any fluff. The sensor is a small bead. There is also a fan with a drum style (not propellor style) blade. Your hook should rattle against this when the ignition is on. If you cannot see or hear this fan (engine not running, ignition on) then that's another problem that will affect the HEVAC response. It's also possible, but I regard it as an outside possibility, that the blend flaps are sticking slightly in a 50/50 hot / cold position, that they were in when the last journey stopped, whereas at start up in cold conditions they should drive immediately to full hot. You should hear the gear noise of this movement when you first switch on the ignition. I'd be surprised the 'flap sticking' problem exists without giving you the chequebook symbol with 30 seconds of starting the engine. You may be able to pick up on other HEVAC behavoir problems or 'characteristics' that back up one of other of these problems. HTH

"And possably totaly unrelated but the interior heaters give out no heat untill I am moving. " To me, this suggests air in the system, that isn't being flushed out of the matrix until you get the increased flow that comes with higher heat input and faster pump operation, consistant with driving the car. "Water loss, some times I worse than others. " Air in the system, expanding as it warms, sometimes sufficiently to push coolant out of the oveflow. Set up a bottle / tank to collect whatever comes out of the overflow to prove this is where the coolant is going. "- High pressure in the cooling hoses. " Air in the system, acting as described above. Are you bleeding the system correctly? In particular are you blowing through the small diameter pipe that leads from the top RH corner of the radiator (near the battery) to the expansion tank? Do you then run the engine, with the cap off the expansion tank, and the small hose disconnected, until you get a good flow of coolant from the radiator stub pipe? At this point both pipes to / from the matrix should be warm if not hot. Do you then attach the small pipe back to the radiator stub and check for a good flow of coolant into the expansion tank? (Use a torch or put the bonnet vertical to give clear visibility). This should ensure all air is cleared. If the problem reoccurs you are looking for a source of air into the cooling system. HTH.

Raffo, I was all interested in that link to the DPS pump details, just in case it linked onto an English language Service Document, but even though I don't read Itallian I recognise the word 'errore'. Am I barred because I'm not a Forum member? (or is it a broken link)? Thanks.

I wonder if it is the panel, or whether it's the BECM that is instructing the panel to display all lights for test purposes. Having raised that spectre, it's essential to add that I haven't done any diagnostic work on the BECM for months, I just 'seem to recall' that it has this test facility. I will say with more certainty that this isn't a normal result of changing the battery. Any other work done, outside normal servicing requirements? Any welding? Your legal resort is to the garage that took the vehicle in 'working' and returned it 'broken'. Let's assume that he hasn't the skill, competance, money, or local network, to take it to someone who does know what they are doing. If you amend your profile to include where in the world you are there MAY be another Forum Member who can point you to a localish garage that does know 38As, and I don't mean the nearest Dealership. That's a MAY, not a WILL. OTOH, the Forum with the best reputation for 38A knowledge, or at least, a larger number of 38A interested people, some of whom know what they write about, is the www.Rangerovers.net 4.0/4.6/P38A forum. It's North Americam biased, but has an International readership, so again it's essential to say where in the world you are. Good Luck. PS, You can buy and fit a second hand instrument panel, but make sure the seller warrants that the recorded mileage is lower that yours. The mileage is stored in BOTH the panel and the BECM. The two readings are compared and the low one updated to the high one. Obviously the same applies to a replacement BECM, although it is possible to have these set to 'virgin' state BEFORE it is installed, when it will pick up the mileage reading stored in the panel. DS

The Winch boys will be along shortly, I'm sure, but in the meantime, to give them and you something to shy at: In round figures, 4hp equals 3000 watts, equals 250 Amps at 12 volts. So that's starter motor-ish current, not for the 10 seconds it takes to start the engine, but for ???? minutes. Where were you planning to continuously draw that amount of electrical power from? In it's original form, how long does it take for the tail lift to rise from ground level to load height? Probably less that 30 seconds? I think it's this area where the problem lies, before you even get to the hydraulic output. HTH.

The first point is that I've never fitted these, so all I can do is read the instructions, which while they show bolt diameter (M8 and M6) and quantity (various), do not show length. They also show plain Nut size (M6 and M8), quantity (various), and 'Rivnut' (or equivalent) quantity, but not size. Secondly, do you have a RAVE CD download, as this may well have the Accessory Fitting Instructions for these Side Runners? I say 'may' as there were 20 versions of the RAVE CDs, and I can't speak for the content of all of them. I am rather hoping that with the instructions, and most of the hardware, you will be able to work out the 'Rivnuts' you require (they must all be the same size). You should also be able to have a stab at bolt length. Microcat, another download covering the Parts Listing, may have bolt length etc, but I don't run that at the moment. An issue of RAVE (I don't know which one) and a version of Microcat, are available at the Green Oval download site, http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?opt...3&Itemid=29 but you either have to be PC literate enough to convert an Image file into a working CD, be prepared to learn, or know someone who can. If you have a MAC you also have to know how to run a Windows simulation programme. Now then, how much did you want those side steps ??? Cheers.

Yep, that's fine, thanks.

When you say "small guage plate" what sort of guages are you thinking of? The plate in pictures 1 & 3 looks about 10mm thick, but the two piece die seems complete in itself. The final plate with 2 large and 4 small holes looks about 16G. Have you used the 2 piece die to form the thick plate, then the formed thick plate and the male half of the die to form the thin plate? Or does the 2 piece die also punch out the hole? As you can judge, a beginners view of the world!!

"Turning the key four times to the left first and then entering the code has allowed me to start the engine at last, I bet that was in the manual - can't wait for the new one to arrive." I'd gathered from your 1st post that you had the Owners Handbook. You can download the complete Workshop, Electrical, and Owners manuals on a RAVE CD from the Green Oval site. You want CD 2, but note the file size, and the conversion you need to do. http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?opt...3&Itemid=29 "Just had the batteries out to check they were in correctly and they are. The positive side of the battery is facing the back of the battery cover with the + on it and all the contacts are clean and contacting." Yes, your batteries are orientated correctly, again it's something in the Owners Handbook. Cheers

'Alarm Fault' without any other message is normally the ultrasonic sensor, at the top of the passenger side B pillar. Just pull it out of the trim and inspect for dead spiders etc. Disconnect and reconnect, then replace. It takes about 5 fails before it flags a fault, so you have a bit of leeway before it faults again to confirm you need a new one. If you have some local, try a scrapyard for Rover 214s or similar for the same sensor, possibly in different colours. Cheers.

OK. I forgot to say, but I didn't expect the 5 button presses to do anything. The Freelander is a later design than the 38A and design moves on. The lack of fob red light flash is significant, as it indicates electrical failure of the fob. You need to visually examine the fob closely for any 'obvious' reason why the batteries aren't powering the fob. Then you need to get even closer, possibly with a magnifying glass, or £1 spectacles about twice the strength you normally wear (so +2 if you don't wear any, +4 if you wear +1.5 / +2 normally, etc). You are looking for dry / cracked joints on the printed circuit. If this isn't your area then look for someone who builds electronic kits as a hobby. The alternative is a new fob, only from the Dealer, NEVER from ebay. Expect to pay in excess of £100.00. You have never mentioned a second fob, so I assume you don't have one. If you have memory seats you need Key 1 or Key 2. Buying a second remote means you need to know which you have, but if the new remote will be your only one, just buy a Key 1. Note that the Dealer (or you) should be able to swap your existing blade onto a new remote. With the blade held halfway towards open, look for a little roll pin holding the blade to the metal hinged section. EKA works by a microswitch in the latch telling the BECM what you are doing with the key. The next point is important, as it confirms the microswitch is working AND that you are turning the key correctly. At each turn of the key to the lock or unlock position, the side lamps warning lamp in the instrument pack will flash to indicate that the key turn has been recognised. Note this can be difficult to see, especially in daylight. If you are having difficulty, open the door, ignition on, wind the window fully down, ignition off, close the door, and start the EKA. Now, because you are not looking obliquely through slightly tinted glass, you will see the warning light more clearly. Now do the EKA thing, which is detailed in your Owners manual. At this point I have the Manual in one hand and the key in the other. There is nothing wrong in reading instructions. Note the step 4 alternatives EKA procedure - Vehicles up to 96MY 1. Unlock driver’s door with the key. 2. Open the door and the alarm sounder will sound twice. If the key is inserted in the ignition at this point and an attempt is made to start the engine, the engine will not crank and the message centre will display ’ENGINE DISABLED PRESS REMOTE OR USE KEY CODE’. 3. Close the driver’s door and ensure that all doors, tail door and bonnet are closed. 4. Up to 96MY: Turn the key to the lock position. From 96MY: The key must be turned four times to the lock position. I won't bother copying the rest of the instructions here. Note that with a faulty fob you will ALWAYS have to use the EKA, as the fob will never synchronise to the car. Cheers

"A friend has suggested disconnecting the battery for a while for the ECU to reset, will this achieve anything?" Not much, although you will learn how to 'set' all 4 windows, the sunshine roof (if fitted), and the Radio Security Code!! It is a common suggestion, just that it doesn't achieve much. Now we know you are watching, where are you with this problem? I surmise the remote does not work, in that it doesn't unlock the car. Presumably the new batteries went in correctly, and the fob red light flashes when you press the unlock button. I also surmise that the EKA does not allow you to start the engine. Quoting the Model Year is good, as it confirms you have a friendly re-synchronisation coil on your car, which should do as it says, and recognise the key fob after you insert it in the steering lock. Is there anything else not working on the car, before or after this incident? Cheers.

I certainly missed this the first time around, on 6th Dec. As we have got to 11th Dec and there has been no follow-up by David Stanley there seems little point in progressing now, he's probably catagorised LR4x4 with Land Rover Net :-)) As geoff surmised, I'd also guess 38A, although I know nothing about the L322, and without more involvement by the owner I'm not going to bother reading it up. I note on day 1 he started the engine once he had got the EKA, but on Day xx after changing the fob batteries he could not start the engine. Not being able to remotely unlock the car after changing fob batteries is a straightforward loss of synchronisation, but re-synchronisation can only be done AFTER the car is unlocked with the EKA (security therefore switched off by the EKA process). I note on Day 1 he could also not unlock the other doors by manually lifting the sill button in the drivers door. This may be because the security system wasn't disabled (remote faulty, EKA not known). Shrug. Perhaps he found Rangerovers.net himself, although I don't recall seeing a David Stanley post.

Two things. You spoke to a "Community Support Officer". They are not Police. Much less well trained, much less able to take action on their own initiative, much cheaper to run. So the papers are correct, we are being short-changed, but your complaint is not against the Police. Secondly, accept some blame yourself. The documentation that allows you to contact the breakdown service should always be with you, or the car. Re-read what you have written, think how different it would have been if after "I had breakdown cover," you had been able to call them. It doesn't make any difference that you haven't used them before, what was the point of paying them if you don't have their details? Most breakdown companies give out windscreen stickers, or tax disc holders, that have their phone numbers on. They do this for a good reason, which you now know. When you find the paperwork you may find something like that. Use it. What you have experienced is learning by mistake, we have all done it, and it's often painful and expensive, so no surprises there. Hopefully the next episode won't be so bad. Good Luck.

Perusing some of the GPS threads I have seen positive references, across several threads, to Holux (sic) devices, sometimes with an eBay link attached. I just thought I'd check prices in an online shop and the Holux devices I found seemed more markedly more expensive, nor did the model numbers match up. Then I realised that the eBay items are clearly marked Holox, not Holux. People seem happy with their Holox devices, but I thought I'd just point out that they aren't Holux devices. I have no grounds to say which is better than the other. This is NOT a whinge about people mis-typing a name, just an alert about a confusion that is easy to make, by either the writer or the reader. Googling and following a reference to a post on a GPS style Forum reveals that this problem has been around since early 2006 at least. Cheers

http://www.transaction-2007.com/ Scroll down to Breaking News, below is a partial extract: The following statement is released on 9th December 2007 at 17:20Hrs "TransAction 2007" makes you aware, that a nationwide legal protest against high fuel taxation will take place at various locations. These will be made available as will the date and time during the coming days. Protest action will take place on the same date and at the same time. Person(s) participating in the demonstration do so on their own inititive. You will be advised of a "meeting area". If you have not already registered on the "TransAction 2007" forum section of the website, now is the time to support this LEGAL demonstration. Your attention should be focused on Wednesday 12th December 2007.

"I've just had a scan over the P&D website and I presume that's a seperate club in roughly the same area? The Badlrc looks good as it has trials events to push the land rover and green laning to get out and about, is the P&D the same?" Yes, and Yes. I've sometimes watched the competitive events, but never taken part. Cheers

"Finally would I be better just joining a club?" I'd say Yes. A few years ago I suggesting tagging along as a Guest, and got a lukewarm response, on the basis that I wanted the benefits but wasn't paying my dues. Comparing the Membership and joining fee to the cost of fuel I put in every week I thought they had a point, so I joined. The membership year starts in Jan, so join now to get your full monies worth!! "I've realised that the badlrc club seems to be the main one for the area I'm looking at and they organise quite a few events, had a quick look at the website and their forum but it's very quiet" Presumably the Peak and Dukeries, yes the website is quiet, but how 'noisey' are other local club sites? I don't know. " - Is there any members on here?" Yes, The P&D monthly meet (1st Monday of the Month is possibly some way for you. 8.00pm is early, 8.30 busier, 9.00 crowded. We seem to be all the customers on that Monday. No Food on Mondays BTW, chefs night off. Alternatively join GLASS, the North Derbyshire meet is same time, same place, the South Derbyshire meet is on the A6, so closer to you, I think. I've only been once, several years ago, so can't comment further on the meeting style. Assuming someone there organises Green lane runs you would get an alternative view. Reverting to the P&D, Green lane runs are about once a month, always on Saturdays, starting 12.00 until dark, or 6-ish in the summer. Bring a light lunch. Intended as suitable for families, they are led by a standard Rangie Classic on Colway BFG AT look alikes. Some people carry winches, but I don't recall one ever being needed. Very occasionally people have needed a tow. Add a shovel / spade to what you have already. Reversing away from a problem is NOT failure, so two vehicles is fine. The routes chosen show respect for the ground, so some lanes are 'only uphill when dry'. As indicated in other threads, I 'hold maps', open gates, enjoy the countryside view, etc. This is what I prefer, so can only assume the other drivers like what they get. The GL organiser is at the pub meet, so call in if you want a face to face. He doesn't seem to mark maps as such, you are left to read the GLASS Wayfinder, then ask questions. There is nothing to stop you joining runs and tracking as you go. On the last few months somebody has brought a PC with Memory Map installed, so queries can be reviewed without knocking drinks over while re-folding a paper map. Is that enough for now?

Chris, you quote me correctly, but I thought I was allowed an opinion, and the extract you quoted is my opinion. PDA good for walking, Yes, good for driving, No. I'm not backtracking. "a small screen computer does, in fact, have merit as a navigational aid while driving." Of course it has some merit. My Green lane driving partner thinks it does, I've found his PDA to have some merit, you and others think it does. I just don't agree that it's suitable for me, and I wouldn't spend money on one for use while driving. That evaluation is what gets the 'driving, No' response from me. I might spend money on one for walking, but as most of my walking is local, where I get to know the paths after a couple of trips, I might not bother, and stick to carrying the paper map, 'just in case'. Cheers

Thankyou Mark, I had missed some posts that came in while I was composing my responses, or otherwise distracted. Like you, I can't find a Serial port mentioned http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1=24&am...amp;modelmenu=2 Nor can I find Bluetooth connectivity mentioned. Both these points I looked for (but may have missed) before I asked the question originally. So, if someone can point us all towards how a GPS signal is captured by the PC, I'm sure we will all be interested! And SteveG, I use the in-car PC for more than greenlaning, that main road use is when the large screen comes in handy. For that purpose I've moved from a 7" to a 10" screen, so perhaps you can see why I'm still not convinced a 7" screen is suitable. I've used one. Cheers

Sorry Chris, you have misunderstood what I wrote. (And ironically I've been tagged the agressive one!! :-)) I was NOT saying paper maps are better than a GPS connected PDA. I was saying that when we needed to view a wider area, to plot a re-route, the area containing the alternative roads could not be viewed on the PDA screen, at a sensible, usable, scale. The only alternative we had were the paper maps belonging to the vehicle driver. From these we made the selection that would take us back on course. Re your Land Ranger/UXB comment, it seems we do agree that local knowledge is a very useful thing to have. More to the point of this thread, I'll ask again, how does this Asus PC pick up a GPS signal? Whatever our differences about screen size, presumably you all do think it is sensible that a GPS indicator is combined with the map? Cheers.

Ahh well, I've viewed my Drivers PDA, and it's convinced me it has merits for walking, but driving? No. He is 'lucky' or very experienced, whichever you like, and has a fantastic memory for lanes, and their connection points onto the tarmac network. The PDA is 75% a toy, interesting but not essential. Very useful in that allows him to pre-plot the route onto the screen, but when we hit a (tarmac) closed road we needed the paper maps, and someone (Me) had to find where we could re-route PDQ. Then we could pick up the PDA route again. However, I was asking for the opinions of others, so different views are fine :-)) Cheers