David Sparkes

I guess if it was easy, we wouldn't have been asked :-) The answer from SteveG contains nearly all the details. The earlier models used 2 track sensors, wired as described. Later models, from VIN 607225, use 3 track sensors, wired as described, PLUS the Red Green wire which goes back to the Engine ECU. Later Engine ECUs will accept either 2 or 3 track sensors, but needs a diagnostic system like Testbook to set the parameters. This is shown in the '99 and 2002 models onwards WORKSHOP manual. I cannot find a stated purpose for the Red Green wire, but with that colouring it must be a switched but unregulated power supply. Green would be (thinks hard) ignition controlled, and fused? HOWEVER, by a process of elimination, this must surely be the output from track 3 Usefully (grin) there is a diagram in the WM showing the output voltages that would have to be mimicked if someone was to try installing an electrical Hand Throttle. Personally I think your options are either to use a second TPS, switching the output wires between the two, or looking closely at the hand throttle arrangement on a diesel engined Series II and mimicking that. (Basically a sophisticated mechanical connection to the original pedal). There is no section for the Engine Management System in the 2002 Electrical Library. Looking at the 2002 on wiring diagram, the connector ports used are B,C,D, F,G, J,K. Table, based on SteveG's contribution. B & J are paired, White Purple, 5 volt reference feed. D & G are paired, Black Yellow Earth. F is White Green, output, track one. K is White Slate, output, track two. C is Red Green, ?? output, track three?? The colour code indicates power in. Time for a multimeter or scope methinks. HTH!

I'm with Yellow here, Series IIs do have chassis numbers, where he said. The outside face of the front spring hanger of RH front spring, where the hanger plate overlaps the chassis rail. HTH PS, I also think Stobbie was correct, in everything he did. If anyone makes it easy for these people they are condoning the theft and disposal of their own car. With the personal investment we make in these things, that simply isn't a sensible decision. Cheers.

I'm assuming you have a petrol engine in your car. Speak to JE Engineering in Coventry UK. http://www.jeengineering.co.uk/ They will tell you what is available for your engine. They have a good reputation. Cheers.

Geoffbeaumont, Are you talking Classic or 38A? Comments like "don't think the Hayneous manual is particularly helpful on this topic, from memory", and 'ECU's available on Ebay' suggest Classic, whereas the question is about a '99, therefore 38A. I'm just clarifying, not complaining. Cheers

This is an oblique answer to the original question, but what you need are noise cancelling ear protectors. These won't be the only ones, but look at http://www.noisebuster.net/nb-safety.htm You will see they also do a unit with a radio in, although to be honest, this seems like self-induced Tinnitus to me. Other people, like Bose, sell more upmarket versions, sized, styled and priced for different circumstances, such as travelling by airline. I have a set, made by someone I forget, and bought from UK Maplin, for use in the office, to cut down the backgroung noise inherent in an open plan office. Very useful when I'm on long Audio Conferance calls. The technology does seem like 'magic' or even snake oil, but it does work. Note that these units are powered, the anti-noise generator needs a battery. Good Luck.

Well, all clear so far :-) Unless someone comes up with a Series II based solution, we need to discover what the difference is between the "series 3 bellhousing and clutch set up" and the SII arrangement. I guess we are mostly interested in the seal around the input shaft, but the thought occurs that surely this seal is in the box, not the bell housing? This begs two questions, in what way is "series 3 bellhousing and clutch set up" the answer to oil leaking round the input shaft? Is "series 3 bellhousing and clutch set up" a valid solution? Just ideas, I don't have a SIII parts manual available. Cheers.

Just a couple of thoughts. Now the vehicle is almost fully loaded, have you put it on a weighbridge to establish axle weights? I guess not, as otherwise you'd have mentioned it in your otherwise comprehensive first post. I suspect the results would guide you, and more certainly your spring supplier, in what style of spring is right for your purposes. Secondly, and others may care to voice their disagreement, there seeems to be a lot of exposed thread on those spring to axle U bolts. Squashing the thread against a rock is a minor inconveinience, bending the section against a rock could seriously spoil your day when it comes to changing a spring. I am assuming that anyone travelling in places like Morroco should consider changing a spring as a 'not unexpected' event. After choosing the springs, I'd be tempted to run a second (but plain) nut up against the locking nut, then cutting off all the exposed thread. This way you protect the exposed thread, and have the locknut available for when the locking nut looses it's 'lock' after several re-uses. As I say, just thoughts. I have never wanted to do what you are doing anyway, so have no directly relevant previous experience to draw on. Good Luck.

I suspect the 'market' comprises those people wishing to pull loads onto the bed of a trailer or flatback lorry. Car recovery springs to mind, where even if we derate from 6000lb Absolute maximum to 3000lb Working maximum it would seem OK to pull a broken car onto the loadbed. The lorry world would have the 24V available. Prices I can't give, but now try searches in various places looking for winches for this pupose, to find if what you have fits, and what others ask for. Good Luck.

How many people / vehicles would you be looking to accomodate?

They have kept the Ebay shop open. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Difflock4x4 Whoops, I spoke too soon. I saw the 5000 items, then looked more closely and saw it's a 'selected' list of 9, yes nine items. Could go either way, selling off the remaining stock bit by bit, or haven't yet built up the full list. The latter sounds unplanned, which isn't a way to run a business, and unlike the impression they give from their own site. I guess it's Wait and See.

Do you 'need' a small format solution, like a PDA? Probably essential if you are using the map while walking, but for in-car use (or leaning on the bonnet discussing a route) then I'd have thought a tablet PC with a 10" screen, a bluetooth dongle, and a modern bluetoothed GPS receiver, would have you fixed, for a lot less money and a much more viewable screen. Almost anyone can navigate as the GPS pointer shows them where they are, so they can call up junctions, whatever. I haven't got there yet, but a work colleague says even his wife is was enthusing about being able to map read (Memory Map) with this setup. It's what I'm going for as the gateopener in our Green Lane expeditions (roll on Saturday!). Just an alternative, suggested without knowing the full planned circumstances of use.

If it helps, a Senior Member on SayNoTo0870 posted: "In my experience if it is about sales companies are not fussed about giving out their geog numbers. A direct email enquiry resulted in the following information: Their 0870 number gets diverted to a geographic number in Ireland: 00353 74 937 0089 (which can be called for ½p/min via one of the 0844 access numbers on Martin Lewis' site http://callchecker.moneysavingexpert.com/i...ker/index.php.) and Paul Dutton's mobile number is: REMOVED Note the rider from that site: "... posts are NOT endorsed by SAYNOTO0870.COM, please exercise due caution when acting on any info from here." Cheers. Mobile phone number removed by Mog at the request of Paul Dutton

If I've understood correctly, this is an anti-tramp bar, or at least that's what they were called when I bought some to go on a leaf sprung car. Without them the leaves distorted and the axle 'tramped' as the power was put down. But whatever, if you are happy with anti-wrap, that's OK.

I see Les, that you will go to 'any' lengths to get me to post pictures on this blessed site!! Seriously, thanks for your efforts with the camera and spanners. I think I'm fully booked this weekend, and the 38A needs some TLC, so it may be sometime before I can rerun the engine. I've just had a quick look, and it's only surface dirt, which might actually help me spot the origin, if I happen to be looking in almost the right place soon after starting the engine. If it doesn't, I'll clean then dry the pump, and try again. Thanks again.

A blatant second post, the original is in Classifieds, placed there just in case someone had such a pump for sale. It seems not, so I've reworded the topic, and will just look for what advice is available. The High Pressure Diesel Fuel Injection pump on a 12J (2.5) engine is leaking fuel at the rate of about 1 drop per second while the engine is running. I cannot see exactly where it's leaking from, the closest I can get to is halfway along the body, on the side closest to the engine block. I've no prior experience with these devices, so it might be a simple failure, with a simple repair, or not. I'm not sure whether to try and pick up a 'known' good one from somewhere (any suggestions?), or go to someone like 'addocks to see what they can offer, or have 'my' pump overhauled. Officially it hasn't done an inter-galactic mileage so shouldn't be worn out, but the evidence is that the PO ran it like this for some time. He didn't do many miles, so any repair cost wasn't justified by the fuel saving. Mind you, he probably didn't realise that washing the front propshaft UJ in diesel is a good way of knackering it. Anyway, suggestions on the best way forward will be gratefully received. Cheers. In case it doesn't say in my profile, I'm in Derbyshire, about 5 miles from Paddocks, as it happens. I also intend going to the Peterborough show, in another vehicle, on Sat 9th Sept.

Dated 1st August this is shown in the Gallery, but not in the Products. http://www.exactfabrication.co.uk/show_photo.php?id_nws=74 It's not clear to me whether the door attachment is just to stabilise the carrier when closed, and thus will fit a drop down tailgate, or whether the door attachment is to enable the door and carrier to open as one, in which case the hinge actions will conflict :-)

I've just recalled another recent reference, although you might have to work a bit harder to get hold of them, as they are in South Africa. http://www.madman.co.za/ Expected retail price in SA is R900 or about £63.

I was going to suggest S P A gauges, but as dual gauges (EGT + Boost Pressure, or Intercooler In / Out gauges) I think they are a tad expensive. Perhaps it's buying the two in one go that makes it seem like that, but even so, the final figure is a bit off-putting!! http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/design/dualgauges.asp http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/design/temperaturegauges.asp

unclebill, In general, if you end up paying other people to look after your 38A it will be expensive. If you have that disposable income, great. If not, you have to find out how to look after it yourself, so go to to the Rover Renovations site and read up his instructions. As well, have a look at the rangerovers.net site. Cheers.

Might as well read the article by John Robison: Choosing a Land Rover Test System: T4 vs. Autologic http://www.robisonservice.com/articles/RonR_articles.asp This predates the Blackbox solutions MV solution, but as a commercial workshop, where system downtime or difficulty puts the workshop in a bad light with the car owning customer, he sets great store by immediate and friendly support. He finds it's worthwhile to pay extra to have that personal contact. Blackbox are never going to look good in that environment. Wherever you are in the world, you will know your own customers best, and perhaps they are more tolerant than those in North America, and perhaps they are less affluent, so you can't charge them the prices to cover the costs of really top level support. The Blackbox software does now cover the RR Sport. HTH

Yes, the resistor gives the positional feedback to the ECU. The two wire devices are for the recirculation flaps, these are either fully open (admitting only external air), or fully closed (admitting only internal air). The blend motors and the distribution motor have 5 wires, not 3.

Go to Rover Renovations site http://www.rover-renovations.com/ and look for the overhaul instructions, they probably contain what you want. Even with the import taxes, it's probably the best place to buy bits as well. This may also be of interest. For reasons which escape me completely it was posted in the International Forum. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=15994 The most significant proviso, is that 20 mins is too long for the system to pump up. I can't recall the exact figure on Rave, but it's no-where near 20 minutes. That indicates a new compressor seal / piston ring is required. Cheers.

I hadn't looked at the repair thread you referenced when I replied earlier, as I thought I recognised the part from your description. Now I've looked at the picture its clear I was writing about something else altogether. Sorry.

If, or when, the joint cover rips, through being twisted as the pin twists within the outer, you will have learnt the possible benefit of having the the collar on the shaft instead of in the bin. I'm not saying it's a serious issue, just saying there is a reason for it. Cheers.

Given your comments about your computer expertise, and your reference to 'favourites' I assume you are using Internet Explorer as your browser. Yes? Because it's your Browser that affects how you keep and transfer the details of your favourite web sites. The others will give details. About transferring files, which is my main reason for posting. The others are talking about 'an external hard drive', which has confused me. I'd have gone for a Case for an external hard drive. Buy the new PC, take the hard drive from the existing PC, put it in the external HD case, transfer the files as required, and once certain the new PC can read each file off it's own hard drive, reformat one or both partitions on the external hard drive. As others have said, you now have backup potential for all the Data you have just put on the new PC, and more besides, as you have just got rid off the Windows 2000 operating system from that external drive. Guys, why buy a new hard disk? Cheers.