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PolarBlair

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About PolarBlair

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  1. Bit more progress LHS outrigger removed and ground down. I found shiny metal! Body around seatbelt bracket and strike plate support cut out. The thin plate that holds the two captive bolts for the strike plate support bracket is a guaranteed corrosion point. I would be very surprised if all but the newest defenders didn't have holes through the body around both these brackets (apart from the intentional ones) Used an oscillating blade to get the awkward cuts. Can't help but despair a little at some of the defenders designed choices. A rubber gasket would have prevented the worst of the corrosion around the brackets. To make things more interesting, the filler surround has to be removed to get at the driver's side bracket. Its corroded too so no real loss. Bit more cutting once heavy pitting found on reverse side. Underbody sealer is a right b*tch to get off. I'll be washing the area down with cheap white spirit before sanding / blasting. Then acetone before etch primer. Still waiting on the beam trolley to arrive for the gantry so I can get the body lifted. Some advice needed The flange on the bottom of the side panels where the skirts are bolted on has also heavily corroded. Can you buy repair angles? I think cutting them off and doing away with the skirts would reduce the rigidity of the panel. I have seen some people use high rock sliders in place if the skirts. Maybe an option. The skirts are also heavily corroded. Many of the mounts that bolt to the sills have corroded away. I think once I start poking away not much solid metal will be left.
  2. I got the gantry built yesterday and I'm not far off lifting the body off for a closer look at the chassis. For now I'm just keeping busy doing the repairs to the strike plates and the tub underside. I've got some 2part etch primer so I'll be sanding this area back and recoating to try and slow the existing rot. I did have to cut off more than I would have liked but I'm just barely back to good metal. Looks a bit extreme but the white crusty stuff that was there definitely wasn't serving a purpose anymore. Of course the backside is just as bad. I'm doing as much as I can with body still in place as I imagine everything will get more difficult with the tub up in the air. The flat section at the base of the bulkhead behind the seats was also heavily corroded around the seatbelt brackets. Holes right through. I very much doubt it would have held up in a collision. New metal above and below from YRM will sandwich the existing panels much in the same way I did for the wheel arch repair on rear tub. I'm tempted to grind off the welds on the old cross member replacement as I should get a good look down the frame rails. Will tell me if the chassis can be saved.
  3. That is a good logic - skinnies definitely make more sense for snow on road. Not a problem I think I need to to consider this year though. Im still contemplating if now is the right time to do a chassis swap. Between that and rebuilding front and rear axles plus all the body work I'll be lucky if I get it all done for winter 2021 at the rate I'm going
  4. I might be in a bit more trouble. It looks like the rear cross member has seen a bit more patch repair than I thought. The photo takes the 3D out of it and makes it a bit harder to see but the side of the chassis is caved in around the bolt. The side of the box section has holes above the welds too. Front of chassis is heavily patch repaired around the dumb irons too. Rear cross member is essentially rotten. My worry is spending several hundred quid chopping off the front and rear of the chassis, welding on new sections and just be left with a rotten middle. Keep cutting patching and repairing? Or replace?
  5. They're 265/75 R16 Sounds like a good idea when I come to replace. As long as I don't sacrifice off-road/ heavy snow handling. I would have thought the extra tyre width would be pretty vital but I need to do more reading on it. Maybe not much in it. During the year she only really gets used in anger during winter months. Other than that during summer I make sure to keep her ticking over with a weekly run in to town and back (1.5hrs ish) Big concern is being able to plow through deeper drifting snow after a long day in the hills. Can be 1ft+ of snow on the road when it starts drifting (and it's all backroads for me to get home)
  6. They're pretty much just what I inherited. I think they are required in my case as currently I already have issues with rub on full lock. It will need to be something I look at once the axles are stripped down and I'm getting ready to reassemble. I appreciate that the spacers aren't the best for a number of reasons. For the most part my truck is just used for the commute in winter to get me up my track. No major strain from any serious offroading and the future plans will be to take the family camping with an overland trailer to get me to some more remote location in the highlands. Track access - nothing mental. She spends most of her time on the road and getting up and down the road between cockbridge and tomintoul during ski season. I guess what I'm asking is this - It's not ideal but as long as I'm not putting her through any serious abuse can I get away with it? Otherwise I suppose I'm looking at new tyres.
  7. That's what convinced me to lift the body. I was happy to see the rubber spacers between the tub supports and the tub floor crossmembers is still there. The underside of the tub looks pretty reasonable but the seatbelt bracket for the front row is proper rotten. I could get it out with the tub on but its going to a hell of a lot easier with the tub off. I feel a galvanised replacement coming on.... Does everyone just have to do this at some point? I wonder if there are some rare unicorn defenders out there with no corrosion. One thing is for sure... when this is all done, I'll be rigging up some kind of DIY underbody jet wash for the winter months.
  8. Gift that keep on giving. I'm not sure what the rear cross member normally looks like but I'm pretty sure mine was cut and replaced. Hard to tell from the photo but you can just about see the welded seam. From the underside it almost looks like its already had a patch weld repair. These disks passed their last MOT - You can see how badly corroded and pitted the face is. Looks Like I'm going to have to drop the axle and replace the diff pan. Gwyn Lewis make some pretty beefy looking replacements. Diff pan metal is only 1.5mm so if I have a hole pissing fluid I can only assume the rest of the metal has the structural integrity of school toilet paper. So plans changed again. I'm going to lift the body to get better access to the chassis and everything else. Even more disassembly, but will let me get the job done right. Mmmmm crusty. Had a shot with the needle scaler. You can see the loose flakey stuff top left. Amazing how fast it rips through rust. It will make sandblasting quicker and will waste less media. Haven't found any large holes just yet! New ultra light racing shocks. Continue to get lighter every day. Less weight - more speed. SCIENCE.
  9. @doezel Thats a tidy 90. One day I hope to get mine resprayed properly like that. It looks a lot better than it is. Don't know who did the last respray but paint is bubbling everywhere - rust wasn't treated properly underneath so of course its come back through. Worst of all is a lot of the brackets/ hinges didn't get reinstalled with their gaskets - loads more corrosion. Started a new thread and I'm slowly trying to sort the rust:
  10. Later one? mines a 1993 - interior trim panels don't allow for forward facing seats. Mine just had the inward facing seats so no reel at all. You can get Td5/puma trim panels with the cutout buy they're £200 used. I swear I spent ages looking for it when I did this but no luck. 10seconds of googling just now and look what popped up! https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-EVD500010--SelectedCurrency-1?gclid=CjwKCAjwlZf3BRABEiwA8Q0qq4gttcSHs-Ave09ce7UOWBJ8K2uAX9vm9-GxxYOhEx1HAu-u1MVEBxoCMvwQAvD_BwE
  11. I would like to know what part number item 4 is. Would complete the factory look to have a cover for the seatbelt reel.
  12. I think the first link is the seatbelt bracket for a pickup cab judging by the curved corner window. But at the same time the tub panels below suggest its next to the rear door? Dont know enough about the various Defender models to know if there was a 90 hard top with curved rear corner panels? Too many bracket variations over the years! Found this page: Parts numbers are EWY500040 for RH and EWY500050 for LH.
  13. People probably already know but I found this website and for parts diagrams and associated part numbers its pretty good: https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/front-hubs-to-vin-ka930455-10915-c.asp Even just for reference to make sure you have the correct items.
  14. I think those brackets are for the standard inward facing seats? The brackets for seatbelt mount to chassis with forward facing seats look different. They fit under the tub and bolt through the rear cross member. Mine were from YRM: LHS & RHS REAR SEAT BELT TO CHASSIS BRACKET FOR FORWARD FACING SEAT HDG https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rhs-rear-seat-belt-to-chassis-bracket-for-forward-facing-seat-hdg-2/ They sell all the conversion parts separately including the tub insert and the support panel. You can but the complete conversion kit but I couldnt afford it. Also I had the rollcage to consider. The YRM tub insert is a complete reskin for the wheel arches. In my setup it would have actually prevented the rollcage from fitting. The clearance was already zero between the wheel arches. Something to bear in mind for anyone looking to use this cage with a rear seat conversion.
  15. I just had a look and can't find the part number. But if you Google Td5 rear seat belt bracket it will come up. Pretty sure I just got mine off eBay as a pair. They are handed and only for hard top
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