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  1. Technically the original is made of two half profiles, what gives, as on a lot other places, overlappings. This is not a good base for galvanising. Corner welds and no overlappings are a lot better, because no acid will be trapped
  2. I have installed the Polish chassis. It seems to be technically the best. But to be honest ... any galvanised chassis will outlive us if we don't cold deform it
  3. Mine is a MY '83 first registered in '86. I was told, she has been a service car in the Camel Trophy in 1984. No idea if that is right
  4. Thats right and better the drive members than the diff. The play is ok and you shouldn't expect a lot less. It the drive members are to strong, the failure will likely be in the diff.
  5. looks to me like moving the lower hinge to the front and the upper hinge to the rear. Untighten the screws and you can move them a bit
  6. some pictures look familiar ... but it wasn't her last journey 😏
  7. I left it as it was. Fitted nicely to my galvanised bumper and capings on the One Ten. Capings are 38 years old and no zinc washed of.
  8. Another tip. It is really worth it, to buy the Clecos as shown in my picture. Makes drilling all the holes a lot easier and exacter
  9. Don't blame me for that idea ... I really thought about a 12V AC unit on the hood instead of the spare tire on my 200 Tdi. Electrically driven it can be dismounted in wintertime and blow through the standard vents in the bulkhead. Some kind of handicrafts, but worth a thought https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=https://www.promobil.de/klimaanlage-im-wohnmobil-reisemobil-sommer-heiss-kuehlen/
  10. A helicoil in that size is not the single problem. You need a tool for cutting the bigger thread and a special tool to set it in as well. Sounds pretty expensive, if you can't find a workshop which already owns the tools.
  11. If I'd really needed momentum to go up a steep hill on a journey, why not use the winch right away instead? I often wonder in Videos on YT why people try hard to go up a steep hill withoud releasing tyre pressure or without using their winch, but with lots of momentum. That's definitely gentler. Maybe that shows, why a front locker AND a winch is perfect for travelling.
  12. I like to go up steep hills in reverse. If you get stuck, it is easy to go down forwards without the risk of coming sideways and roll. So for me my front locker is the right choice even in this case 👍🙂 My CVs and shafts in the front are Tibus parts. This and the pegged Ashcroft 100% locker have improved the entire front axle for sure. I hope it is now as strong as the Salisbury in the rear.
  13. Just thought about it. Why should locker in the back be better than in the front? When both wheels on an axle have the same revs it tends to go straight anyway, no matter if it's in the front or in the rear. I see an advantage to have it in the front, because I even CAN adjust a direction of the driven wheels. In the rear not even that is possible. I have to trust on the grip of the front wheels. If there is no grip it will go straight. My conclusion is, the locker in the front will be more useful. Am I right or wrong?
  14. In my experience not. Remember you never go to the limit when you are on a journey. I experience a lot better traction than without locker and in addition I improved the quality of the font axle a lot. Steering stiffness has never been a problem. I have achieved two goals with one conversion for a lower price than putting the locker into the Salisbury.
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