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About Sigi_H

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  1. Just use it. A 5W30 in these days is way better than the mentioned 5W30 by the manual 30 years ago.
  2. you are right, but even with multigrade oils the lubricating times when cold start are a bit longer. This is the reason, why the first number on multigrade oils becomes lower. They want to keep this times low, as they count in seconds.
  3. I am not a specialist in plain bearings. But as far as I understand it, the pressure of oil is responsible for the needed oil flow through the bearing, but this is minimal. The lubricating pressure IN the bearing is produced by the bearing itself (with a lubricating wedge produced by the turning shaft) and is very very high. A lot higher than the pump can provide. That means in my eyes, you can live with a low oil pressure, as long as you make save, that the pressure (inside) the bearing is high enough to start it. To start it means, give the engine a small pulse of revs when idling before you put load on it . Don't let it pull away with heavy load from idle with low oil pressure. Give it a small push without gear just to raise the pressure and then pull. Viscosity of the oil does not need to be raised because it depends a lot more on operating conditions of the vehicle. It is really bad, if you raised the viscosity and have a good pressure when hot, but when you fire up the engine in the morning it is not lubricated at all, because the oil is to thick. Specialists say it is best to have a very short time until the engine is "oiled through". Thicker oil lifts the pressure but will make this time a lot longer. This is how I understand it.
  4. Since 20.000 km I got a new 200 Tdi engine by Turner. After running in and 20.000 km it consumes 1.5l of oil at 8.500km which is 0.18 l/1000km My old engine (350.000 km) used ca. 0.2l /1000km This is the value, that seems to be normal to me. Oil pressure cold is 4 bar and hot is 2.5 bar. At idle ca 1 bar but it rises quickly
  5. Really interesting to see, that water temp became ok, but oil pressure is still high. It also replaces an oil temperature indicator, because the oil pressure only decreases when the temperature is reached. Normally the water is hot, but oil is still too cold
  6. Oil pressure is a reason I didn't think of, but I assumed that it increases quickly even at low rpm. Higher revs are good in most situations
  7. Why? It is more important to protect the gearbox than the crankshaft. The needle bearings in the gearbox are much more sensitive. Plain bearings on the crank can carry a lot more load.
  8. No idea whether the stock bolts are strength class 10.9 But if so its a reason for a leak if you use 8.8 Are these classes in GB the same? It is metric.
  9. A gasket like that is easily cut from a Tetra Pak with a scissors. Punch the holes with a sharpened peace of tube
  10. I think you can give more. My Oneten is MY83 and the galv cappings are perfect. This is why I put no paint on my galvanised chassis. Looks perfect with the galvanized front bumper 👍
  11. May be. Are you sure they report failures? I believe you sure can make it fit, even if there was some failure. Galvanizing those old parts is not the best way, but it is a way for sure. And most important: These parts will possibly survive longer, than we do 😂 I just want to mention, where the traps are.
  12. Imagine, how the procedure is done. The chassis will be submerged in the acid bath to eliminate rust. They let it in (nobody knows how long) until the OUTSIDE seems to be without rust. In the inside, capillary forces suck acid in overlaps and rust nests. Those nests can be quite big between stiffeners as you see in my pic. Now they neutralize it. Again nobody knows how long and what is going to happen inside. Fact is the acid was there before and can stay there Then it will be rinsed in water and then it will be galvanized. Another question: What is going to happen with overlaps, when they are soaked full of water and get in the hot zinc bath? Are they spread because of the steam? Nobody knows. This is why construction for galvanizing is so important. You can not galvanize things which are not constructed for that except electrolytically. I am absolutely sure the companies doing bulkheads have there tricks
  13. I wouldn't even galvanize an original chassis, because there are so many overlaps and traps for the acid in it. The same in the bulkhead. A lot of sheet metal is double layered in it. No zinc will go there and acid in which the bulkhead is put before galvanizing will stay there. If you do so, you will have to know exactly how it is built. Oneten double layered Chassis part with acid trap
  14. Without scientific confirmation i would say use cheaper oil but change it more often. Normally that sludge is a emulsion of water and oil. Longer journeys heat the water out.
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