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Tom Grant

Getting Comfortable
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  1. I didn’t no, I will be keeping an eye on it for the meantime but I never found the cause 😬, the splines on the cv joints where very warn, it looks like they have been on their way out for a while along with the splines on the wheel flanges, they too where very warn!
  2. Hi chaps, my apologies for not replying been fairly busy and just completely forgot to be honest. Happy to report its all back up and running and seems to be okay! what i replaced: Half-shafts, CV joints, stub axles, wheel bearings, drive shaft wheel flanges, both callipers along with new pads, fresh oil and brake fluid. As i once said i had never done anything like this before, i'm only 19 😂 But i'm confident that with a little engineering knowledge and following the Haynes manual, the work i did is up to standard. For those of you who suggested the later system of the bearing nuts, i see your point but i'm happy with the two nut system and seems to work perfectly fine so i shall keep it that way. Thanks to all of you for the advice and knowledge, was a massive help!
  3. Does anybody know the reason for why the near side is an abs cv and the off side is non abs cv? Just want to make sure I’m ordering the correct parts.
  4. Fantastic. Thank you very much! I’ll post the outcome when it’s all fitted. Cheers!
  5. thats a great tip, i didn't know that so thank you. its been a first for me stripping out the half shafts so been a bit of an experience for me. i've got a big order as while i'm at it my pads need replacing as well as wheel bearings and drive flanges. Really appreciate all the help!! As far as putting it all back together, is there anything i should be aware of that needs doing, will i need to pre load the axles when the the adjuster nuts go back on?
  6. Okay gents after finally pulling out the cv joints and half shafts I’ve found my issue (see attached images) looks to me like the cv joints are a bit tired. 😂
  7. Okay so after a week of sh*t weather I’ve been reluctant to get under but now I’ve had a look I believe its the mechanism it’s self not engaging unlocked properly, which would explain the obscene amount of play in the stick which I never really noticed until now. Sorting it out this weekend! Massively appreciate all the advice and help. ill be sure to post an update once it’s sorted! Tom
  8. I’ve tried both forward and revers in both low and high when disengaging diff lock, the warning light does go out. Doesn’t matter what gear I’m in I still get the grinding sound, all propshafts turn!
  9. cheers guys, will take a look at the mechanism first, fingers crossed its something silly!
  10. Hello I drove my 1995 300dti 110 through a deep river but nothing to serious only came up the the top of the wheel, i didn't stop and kept a constant pace. the river was only two meters wide. for this i selected high range locked diff ( right choice, maybe, maybe not). When getting out on the other side with no issues i proceeded to put the car back into working diff, and this is when i had the issue! I could select the right ratio however when trying to pull away it made a horrible grinding sound and i had no drive what so ever (absolutely nothing) put it back into locked diff and i have drive. so my problem is i am now stuck in locked diff, both high and low ratio work fine. Both high and low in working differential both slot to where they should however when selecting any gear i have the grinding sound!! any ideas on what the problem might be???
  11. Hello all. Im a new member and have a question! Im currently turning my 110 CSW into a camper, I still want the use of the rear seats however I want to utilise the space underneath. So my question is, can I fabricate a box to fit the length of the second row seats out of metal, removing the existing legs and brackets then mount the seats on top of the new frame/ box. Is this legal, will they need to be crash tested at all? Any knowledge on the subject is greatly appreciated! cheers.
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