Cory

I have used this kit. I would suggest to be careful tightening the wire nut on the end. It will break off if over tightened. It's not the greatest quality but they work. Later glow plugs do not fit the early series diesels. so we're kind of stuck with the BritPart version of parallel glow plugs.

Congrats!! Welcome! Nice to see another one in the USA!

Holy moly! They went crazy with the spot weld machine at the factory.

Welcome to Series ownership! I'm in the USA, too. I'm also assuming he's from New Jersey. I usually order from the UK from the places listed above. I would add LRparts.net is a good place to order from. USA prices are just ridiculous for new parts. I would like to order some SP4x4 door tops some day. ha ha! Check out Guns n Rovers forum. Lots of people on there with used parts in the USA. Very helpful USA based group.

Looking good and useful!!

Awesome job!! Enjoy those nice drives! Congratulations!!

I'm currently having the same issue with my diesel. I had the injection pump rebuilt by a local diesel shop. They did a great job! Ran like a top! Fast forward 2 years... I try to restart it after a frame resto and bulkhead repairs. I get it started but way under power!!! I can't even get enough to pull out. So I put on an temporary electric lift pump to bleed out all the air. Made a minor improvement. Plus changed the timing all around after checking it. End result is i took my pump back the other day to the diesel pump rebuilder for checking and cleaning. We'll see what happens I would suggest the same as above. First check the condition of the engine. Like.. compression, check the valve clearance, etc.... Nice to see another Pennsylvania, USA person posting.

Fresh and clean! Enjoy the show!

Not bad at all. It can be fixed. I agree, it must be in a jig or on the truck for repairs.

Great truck!! Congrats and welcome! I'm located by Pittsburgh, PA. Nice to see a truck on the East coast.

The 2 wire alternators. They are internally regulated. The big wire goes to the battery. The small wire is powered by the dash light. That’s it. No need to jump wires or anything fancy. For my headlights. I used an H4 headlight kit from EBay. It comes with all the wires, relays and fuse to put dedicated power to the headlights. The foot button only becomes a trigger for the relays to turn on high or low beams. Less power thru the cabin switches and the relays take care of the heavy load.

I made my own wiring harness for diesel Series 2A. Bought some 30/40amp SPDT relays with harness, 12 blade fuse panel with wires, H4 headlight relay kit, a bunch of different color wires and sizes, 1/4 inch spade connectors with 3M heat shrink (male & Female), Earth (ground) terminal block, wire inline fuse holders and wiring butt connectors. now put them all together and now everything is fused and working brightly!

Excellent project! Good luck!

YES!!! Go for it! She looks lovely and deserves your TLC!

Cornish, They look awesome!!

Excellent info and pictures. They look great and lots of shock movement. Now I see the fronts... I should have ordered the fronts to match the rear instead of the Monroe. Next time! ha ha!!

Cornish, I'm interested in seeing the front fitment. I might try them next time if the rear BP Cell work out.

I ordered replacement parts from YRM and some specialty pieces from The Welding Wood. I was very happy with the quality and fit. My doors now do not fall off!!

Cornish, I was in the same boat. I read all the reviews and ProComp do not seem that great. Plus every time I see the plastic/rubber boot on shocks drives me crazy!! The BP Cells have a nice metal cover over the end of the shock. Looks real classy. I uploaded a video on you tube about BP Cells, Monroe Shocks and tie rods. Search for "Land Rover Series Rust Repair Part 36" by conrad1468. I don't know if i am allowed to post links.

I have BP cellular Dynamics fitted in the rear of my 109 Station Wagon with GB Springs 4 leaves. I hope to drive it out of the garage this spring. Haven't driven on them yet but they fit nicely.

I agree. I asked about fitting sizes listed on their website. They said they do not know. If I can't order from the LR Part number. I do not order it. Since Fedhill was located in the USA it saved on shipping for me. Plus they list all the information about their fitting and other useful info. Bearmach is a minimum of $25 shipping to the USA. So I only order larger orders from them.

My Series 2A has 3/8-24 brake fittings. I replaced and made all new 3/16" nickel-copper metal brake lines, too. Check out the website Fedhill Trading for Girling brake fittings info.

I made a handy tool with a 3 ft length of 1.5 x 1.5 inch angle iron. One end I drilled two 3/8" holes 2 inches apart. I attached that to the flange to hold it in place while I broke the nut loose and also for retorquing the nut back on. I replaced my seal, flange and mud shield. Did not do anything with the shims.

I plan to rotate my 11 inch brakes one hole, too. I needed to buy new brake fittings and some 3/16 inch brake line. I made new metal brake lines and bubble flared the new lines. Hope to have it back together this week. Good luck!

I installed the Britpart Cellular Dynamic on my Series 2 109 SW with rear GB Springs 4 leaf. They seem to have lots of travel. The polybushings look to be the same size as stock rubber bushings. You could order stock rubber bushings to replace the polybushes. I hope to have a drive on the new GB springs in 2021 when it's done getting repairs. The stock shocks were too short. They were Bearmach Stock 109 shocks.