94range

After rereading all of your posts several times, it looks like what you are all saying is that I use the tach out or tach driver instructions to actually supply a signal to the ecu and continue to actually drive the tachometer from the alternator. Yes?

Here's the message from trigger wheels, hence my confusion over the term tacho driver and sending signals to the ecu. It sounds like it's the same thing. Hi Shannon, Do you get any spark at all? A great way to test is by squirting some easy-start into the inlet - if it splutters and tries to start then you know that you have ignition. I guess that you're running a fuel injected vehicle so the injection ECU takes the feed from the coil to sense the engine speed and know that it needs to squirt in fuel. When you fit the Megajolt/EDIS setup then you need to use the tacho driver to connect up to the tacho feed so the injection ECU still gets that signal. Chris

This is what is confusing the **** out of me. I get that I need to send a signal to the ecu from the coil to replace the signal from the original coil but then trigger wheels is telling me wire in a tacho driver between the edis and coils and send that to the ecu. I was under the impression that the tach signal and ecu signal were two different things. I will try to add pictures of the original coil wires and the alternator wires. The alternator has a brown with yellow trace and a white wire in addition to the power wire.

I'm not home right now but from memory, there is one coil and 4 wires attached to it. 2 on one side and two on the other. They are definitely white and black or some mix thereof. There is also a white wire and a brown wire that come off the back of the alternator and I thought that when I changed the alternator, the tach didn't work until I hooked up one of those wires but that might've been on my Discovery and not this RRC. I also bring up the alternator because I haven't put any of the belts back on so the alternator isn't turning and I want to make sure that's not my issue.

Thank you all for the replies. Thank you for the link Quagmire. I had kind of ignored the whole tacho issue until now, thinking it wasn't a big deal if my tachometer worked or not but I guess it has to in order for fuel to flow? Bowie, I had considered pulling a plug and checking for spark while cranking but I didn't have anyone else here to crank while I grounded the plug. I can definitely tell whether there is spark though by spraying a little starting fluid in the intake before cranking, the difference is obvious but after looking up edis diagnostics, I think you're right that using the multimeter is basically useless in this scenario. Fridge. The kit I got from trigger wheels seemed complete. The mj, edis, coils, and a whole bunch of new plugs and pins and wire that I had to put together myself along with some decent instructions but it wasn't clear to me whether I use the tachometer out from mj or some output from edis and there definitely was no modifications already done as I had to wire everything myself. Those molex pins were a bit tricky without the right crimper. I destroyed several. After a discussion with trigger wheels, they confirmed that I need to install the tachometer driver in the lines between the edis and coil packs and send the output of that to the tacho feed of the rover. You're right about the wiring the coil/plugs wrong as I did that the first go round but I'm sure I have that part sorted now. Firing order 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 so the left coil pack is A toward front, B toward back with pin8 to A and 1,6 and pin9 to B and 8,5. The right coil pack is facing the other way so the back row is C from pin11 and going to 4,7 and the front one is D from pin12 and firing 3,2 I hope I wrote all that down right. Know I just need to figure out which wire on the rover I use to hook the tacho driver to. Any ideas of where the tachometer was driven from on the original system? Is it one of the wires on the original coil?

While checking wires, I discovered a bad ground so now it at least tries to start on starting fluid. During a conversation with trigger wheels, the person helping me mentioned that the tach driver needs to be hooked up in order for the ecu to send the fuel. Can any of you confirm that for me and whether I would use the output from the edis or from the mj for that, and where is the wire I need to hook into on the Rover? Is it connected to the old coil or the alternator maybe? I look forward to a reply.

After some more poking around, it turns out the voltage on the coil wires, at the edis plug, is coming from the coil itself. With voltage going to the center pin on coil plug there is voltage present from the other two coil plug wires but only when it's plugged into the coil. When I unplug the coil, I no longer have voltage at 8,9,11,12 on the edis plug so at least that is solved.

I have a 1994 Rover NAS. I purchased a MJ kit and have installed the EDIS components but can't get the vehicle to fire up. I started poking around with a multimeter and discovered that with the plug connected to the EDIS module and battery power going to the number 6 pin, I am reading battery voltage coming out of all of the other leads, even the ground. The only slight difference is the leads for the vr sensor read about a half volt less. With the plug disconnected and power still hooked to number 6, when I probe the back of the connector, I am getting battery voltage on 8,9,11,12 (the ones that go to the coils) Is all of this normal or do I have a bad EDIS or plug? Thanks