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martinc

Getting Comfortable
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  1. Ally I was kind of thinking it could be a wiring problem because when I first had it recovered I got codes P1667 and P1672 from the diags an apparently this indicated not just the wrong security code, but a low voltage indicator on the security link (i.e. an earth possibly?). Excuse my ignorance with the fusebox, but how does a fusebox "die"?
  2. So after first discovering the intricacies of the Range Rover's alarm system last september, (which a number of you helped me out with) I now appear to have a problem with the Engine ECM that is apparently getting worse. When I originally had the issue with my car not accepting the EKA code, we discovered: 1) The actuator switch in the Driver's door was faulty hence the key codes were not being seen to unlock the vehicle (now fixed) 2) The alarm sounder is not working (although the lights do flash if the alarm is activated) - still not fixed. 3) After correctly entering the EKA code, the engine ECM had managed to lose the security code it shares with the BeCM, required reset with a testbook. So it ran for a couple of months fine until the first time I'd not used the vehicle for 5-6 days and I went to start it and it would not turn over. Having previously fitted a new battery (as advised on here) I still had the original one in the garage and fearful of disconnecting the thing again and causing a complete fiasco like I had last time with codes etc I charged the spare, hooked it up to the still in situ battery, turned over absolutely fine, but would not start. Ended up getting the AA to take it back into the local RR specialist and once again, although it had not completely died this time the ECM had managed to lose the security code. Garage recommended fitting a diesel battery to it (mines a petrol but given it appears to be suffering from the infamous mysterious battery drain issue I though this sounded wise), 15 mins later all sorted. Until last week - only two weeks after having this corrected, it happened again. This time the battery was no-where near being dead. The guy from the garage kindly came to my house this time as I'm only up the road and sure enough the ECM had lost the security code. Code was reset on last friday. I've used the car all weekend, went out to it this morning, and it's happened again. Turning over like a good-un but will not start and I'm willing to bet it's exactly the same thing. The chap from the garage is coming out to help me out tomorrow or Friday. But obviously my question is, why the hell would the ECM be losing the security code like this all the time when I'm not getting the Key Code lockout messages in any way. Ideally if someone could suggest potiential causes for this, or alternatively a permanent way to disable this feature or bypass this lockout altogether because I'm getting to the stage where I now don't want to use the car, just in case I get somewhere and then the bl**dy thing decides not to start on the way back! Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Martin
  3. Thanks for the update, I've had the AA out to it who after checking the plugs because it "sounded like it was flooded!", then hooked up the diags and found fault codes P1667 & P1672 on the ECU. From browsing the forums again it would appear this definitely means the loss of security sync between Becm and ECU is the issue. However, the garage it's being recovered to is a general mechanic who has done all the other work on the car for me, and does not have a test book or rovacom. He says he can get his hands on one, but has spoken to someone else who has said the keys , Becm and ECU all need to be programmed with new codes! Can anyone who has testbook confirm this? From the posts I've read I don't think this is correct as I got the impression you could set the ecu into "security learn" mode and it re-syncs with the Becm. Can anyone who has testbook / rovacom confirm what the proper procedure is for correcting this problem. Thanks Martin
  4. So after resolving my EKA input problem, my car is now unlocked and security is operating properly from the remote, but the car just won't start. Turning over no problem, but not a hint of trying to actually run. Browsing through the topics there seems to be an issue sometimes when after a dead battery scenario the engine ECU loses security sync with the Becm, and on the Bosch Motronic versions (as opposed to GEMS), a few posts have stated that if they have lost sync, when the ignition goes to position II, the engine warning lamp will not illuminate. Mine however is illuminating ok. Does anyone know if this definitely indicates the engine ECU is fine (in terms of security sync) before I set about fuel system troubleshooting? Martin
  5. Ok, managed to solve the first problem! Got the multimeter out and and unplugged the connector from the door lock actuator and just ran through a series of connectivity tests between the switch common and the 3 switch functions in the actuator, namely door ajar, CDL and Key. The door ajar and CDL switches are signalling ok but the key turn switch is not functioning, hence no EKA input signal being received. So to resolve this, I raked through my electronic bit and bobs and found an old push button switch (of a guitar fx pedal as I recall!) and piggy backed it across pins 11( black) and 6 (Blue/Red) on the connector C1579 in the door outstation. I literally just took the wire tails from the switch and pushed them into the back of the connector block where the normal wires are and put the connector back into the outstation. Wind the window down, close and lock the car and then use the button to simulate key turns, remembering to lock and unlock as required for each digit. Presto, one open car! Phew. Re-sync the handset and all locking now functioning as normal. So now it's turning over fine but not starting (I have also replaced the battery in the meantime). So I'm trying to work out if I have a fuel pressure problem as the car now hasn't been driven for about 3 weeks!
  6. Ok after spending the last 48 hours scouring all sorts of forums and topics I cannot find a solution to my immobilised Range Rover problem so I'll give you the full story and see if anyone can help. I have a Range Rover 2002 51 plate 4.0 HSE, last of the P38's. Returned from a 2 week holiday and it was dead. Not partially, but completely dead. No red flashing alarm led, no response to key fob, nothing. So I performed a manual unlock, remove battery, trickle charge overnight, re-connect battery - Engine Immobilised, please use remote or enter key code message on trying to start her up. What I've tried: EKA Procedure - have a 4 digit code on my security card, but it's written as "Key No" not in the "Emergency Key Access" code section. However I've called 2 separate dealers, one who I quoted the code to and they confirmed it was the EKA, another whom I requested the EKA from and they verified the code I have. So I have to assume this is the correct code at this moment. There seems to be a couple of variations of this procedure on-line, and the AA chappie who looked at the car on Sunday also verified this from their Vixen system, 4 turns anticlockwise to lock position then 1st number turns clockwise to open, 2nd number turns ACW to lock, 3rd number turns CW to open, 4th number turns ACW to lock, then One turn to open and alarm should be disarmed, start vehicle. For each of the above ensuring it's performed slowly, going to full extent in each direction returning to centre at each turn. I've also tried other variation of this, i.e. turn to lock and hold for 10 seconds first, then enter code and reversing the turn directions for each digit (seems to be a LHD/RHD confusion). All doors and tailgate + bonnet are shut when doing this. None of the above is working for me, but I have some observations: At the original point of battery re-connect, drivers door was shut (didn't read until afterwards I wasn't supposed to do that) and neither key fob operated the doors. Have read that a battery disconnect and re-connect with the drivers door open and the key in the ignition at position 2 might get around this, not for me. I am not getting any beeps or sounds at all from the alarm system whilst doing this (some posts refer to hearing the mis-lock if you abort the procedure half way through etc, no matter what I do I hear nothing.) The key turns are supposed to be acknowledged by corresponding illumination of the indicator lights on the dash, I see nothing. (tried with window down as well in case I just wasn't seeing it) When I disconnect and re-connect the battery, even with driver door open and ignition at position 2, the car immediately goes into keycode lockout. When opening the door manually the alarm led is flashing quickly for about 10 seconds and then slowing back down to it's normal "armed" pulse rate. When opening or closing the doors or bonnet, all indicators flash for about 15 seconds. Read that the door handle position could cause the the key turns not to be send, so I'm making sure the handle is fully returned. Got the door trim off to check that the wires are definately connected to the microswitches for the handle (which they appear to be, if someone could confirm that no wires go directly up to the handle itself but rather to the actual lock mechanism halfway down the door, they appear to be plugged in ok). After you turn the key the first 4 times to go into "EKA entry mode" should you get some kind of indication that it's ready for the code? So that's where I'm up to. Can find anything else that I've not tried online, and I'm bl00dy reluctant to have to get it into a dealer just because the battery went flat! I can see the pound signs in their eyes already. Any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I'm also trying to find out if there is a way to simulate the electrical pulses to the BECM unit (that must be getting sent when you turn the key) as the complete lack of indication of key turns is making me suspect that there is some kind of issue with the door microswitches themselves. Martin
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