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flyingmossman

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About flyingmossman

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    Rochester NY, USA

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  1. I am using 15w-40 oil and was planning on dropping that for the winter months (suggestions?). I will definitely have a go with the swapping wires and/or sender today! thanks again!
  2. Snag, thank you. I will have a look today and provide an update. I am leaving for work for the week out of town and Grover will be in the garage at our shop for the time being. When I get back I will take a few bits apart while I have a nice dry indoor location. I think mainly, the oil temp is up is when my rpm is high ie. highway driving. I try not to go above 55mph ever and even that is a bit stressful on the box and rpms. Good suggestion with the oil cooler. Would it make sense to flush the oil cooler before just omitting and blanking? Coolant temp, again, never gets above 50% r
  3. I will keep posting to the thread with updates! thank you for all the input! most of the tests you mention above, I have implemented. I flushed the coolant system well and replaced fluids. the old coolant was gross! the new green stuff is working well and as I check routinely for levels, I haven't noticed any loss of coolant or discoloration. As I mentioned before, the coolant temp is actually spot on which leads me to believe the thermostat is operating correctly and opening at the right temp. the Oil cooler though is another story! and I haven't gotten to that yet haha.
  4. been a long time, A small amount has happened since: I can start with fuel pipes. I had noticed, shortly after tightening the unions at the injectors, a drip, drip,drip that progressed to quite a bit more than that. I overtightened them (a costly lesson learned) -All four pipes were replaced and seated nicely with no leaks. I have bought a timing tool kit but haven't the balls to crack that open yet. I will get there as I think the timing is out. Second, is the oil leaks. -The sump seal is still my main culprit for leaks but has now just got to the point
  5. good to hear! I also have a feeling more so now that the oil sump is a leaky culprit, but certainly I will check the unions. At least at the injectors they are dry I know that. I will have to have a real close look. I haven't ever loosened or tightened any of the unions at the pump. Another question I have is about the bleed valve on the pump. Pretty sure the order of operation is loosen lower lock nut then loosen upper. Please tell me if that is incorrect. I bled the system and it seems to be free of air. I will also get a few pictures of transfer box and gearbox. T box (LT77) is
  6. thanks for the response! I will upload some pictures later today to show where I can find oil and/or diesel. It is a beautiful day out finally so I will have some time to snoop around.
  7. Hello all, This is my first post on here and I am a true green horn in the LR world. I bought a 1987 tithonus defender 110 hard top past february. 160k km on the clock. I am not sure of any previous history, whether maintenance, or import, or military wise. I am looking to getting, at least, the military history. to date I have replaced the glow plugs, battery, I have serviced the engine oil, filter, and fuel pump filter. replaced the rocker cover gasket (which was horribly leaky and which the bolts were finger tight.) I have coolant to replace and drop the current rad fluid (which seem
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