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AStarMustDie

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Everything posted by AStarMustDie

  1. That's correct, turn the key to start and it doesn't crank at all. I've now checked the connector - it's fine, totally clean inside - I've measured the voltage at the starter solenoid: it goes down to about 8.8V while cranking, and voltage at the battery itself is about 9.5 while cranking, so there is a bit of drop between the battery and the solenoid. I haven't been able to take the measurements while it's having the issue though as it's cranking fine at the moment, when it's having trouble again I will try to measure to see if there's a difference somewhere. I've swapped the starter relay with the one on the end (the heater rear window one) and we'll see if it trouble again in the future.
  2. Yeah the 12V to the starter was from the battery, the starter relay (the yellow one under the fuse box) is clicking consistently when I try to start it, so I think that rules out that and the ignition switch. The next thing I think I'll check is this connector below, it's located just behind the engine and I reckon it's gummed up with oil and diesel which could be stopping me getting a full 12V at the starter.
  3. I have a 1997 300tdi defender 110, and recently I've been having issues with it starting. This was tracked down to the immobiliser/spider as it starts just fine with a 12V wire straight to the starter solenoid, however, after having bypassed a second hand immobiliser (as is recommended in "the definitive alarm spider post" - pins 4 to 8, and 6 to 10 are connected) it's still hesitant to start. Sometimes it starts right away, sometimes I have to hold the key in the start position for 10-20 seconds before it finally kicks in. Is there likely to be some more dodgy solder joints in the alarm ECU or does the problem lie elsewhere?
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