Paul butfustet

I setup as you said and the results were as you said.Here is a video confirmation. I had to trim back to 20mb. It was a minute long because I did it the test twice to make sure. Many thanks, I've learned something I can re-use in the future. Cheers, Paul 20220520_103716 - Copy_Trim_1_.mp4

Okay, I appreciate the advice. I'll do the test that steve b says tomorrow and let you know the result. Cheers, Paul

Having almost completed my 110 chassis swap and upgrade to a 300tdi/R380 I got a second hand disco transferbox off a friend, but status unknown, says 28DxxxxxxxxE 1.222 ratio 4WD on it. Now I want to fit the linkage for the Hi lo (this seens to engage ok) and the diff lock. But I'm not sure if there is a problem with the diff lock. 110 off the ground on axle stands with prop shafts on. Looking at the diff lock selector nipple, using a 10mm spanner, I can turn it to the far right there is a click/clonk when slightly rotating the hand brake drum. (I call this the 2 'o clock position when looking forward towards the windscreen and it is angled away from the gearbox). This I assume is the Diff lock engaged position. I have it in 1st gear and the handbrake drum only rotates slightly because the engine is engaged through the gearbox. If I put the gearbox in neutral, then the handbrake drum is free to fully rotate. This works in Hi and lo, same test in gear and in neutral. So I am assuming the hi lo is ok. When I turn the diff lock nipple back left, one position to the centre (I call this the 12 'o clock position) gearbox in neutral or in 1st gear, the handbrake drum can fully rotate but not the front prop. When I turn the diff lock nipple a further turn to the left (I call this the 10 'o clock position, it's angled towards the gearbox) and I'm slightly rotating the handbrake drum, I then select 1st gear, so the engine is engaged the same as in the 2 'o clock position, I can still fully rotate the handbrake drum with no resistance from the engine being engaged. Both props turn. Do I have a problem with the transferbox? Apart from getting a flat tyre repaired, this is the last problem before being able to give it a test drive. Can any kind soul please help?

Yes it's got everything I would want to play in with my land rovers, but it's not mine. Devon is full of thatched buildings hidden away in it's rolling hills. I'm doing a 110 LHD conversion, on a TD5 HD chassis with a 300TDI R380 box, refurbed axles, all new suspenion, new brake system, new tank/fuel system, making sort of camper/expedition type vehicle to travel around the mountains and warmer areas of europe. That's the plan but first a shake down around cornwall this summer.

I put a 300Tdi in with an R380. It was a 2.5 n/a. Plenty on ebay part no. YWC104430

Update I managed to swap out the bulkhead loom for a later model version from a friend (has the little blackbox rear fog light ecu, separate left right indicator warning lights and different fuse layout). Everything works except the instrument lights and RH side/tail lights. Fuse is ok, I did a continuity test on it. I have no current feed into the fusebox so I will trace the wiring. Must be a break somewhere. Even shows just under a quarter of diesel in the tank (which is about right. I fitted a new tank and put 20 litres in it. I'll solve this light problem and let you know know. I can then fit the dash etc. Seatbox, seats, handbrake, floor panels and then the front wings, slam panel and rad surround and the bonnet. I'll take a look at the other bulkhead loom, should be easier to test now it's out. I'll wait til it's a bit warmer and sit in the garden with a gallon of cider.

Many thanks for this. Great detail on exactly where the wires run and what components are on the harness. This is exactly th ediagram for this other loom i saw a few days ago. Is there a document for an earlier def 300 loom? Mine definately doesn't have the rear fog light ECO multi connector. No door switches for interior light. No headlamp voltage regulator and the fuse box onlty has the 2 yellow relays. No wiring for alarm or A/C or rear wash/wipe or neated rear screen etc. The fuses are layed out differently than this one. My Headlight/sidelight fuses are on the lower row running left to right 4 x 7.5amps 2 x 5amps....... The instrument/gauges still use the early rubber block connects and same for the wipers. I will buy a new pink headlight dip relay, behind the gauges. But still need to solve why the left indicator blows the indicator fuse and also why not the right. What's strange is the wires to the connector for the indicator stalk don't have the green/red or the green/white for the indicators where the newer version of the loom does. Cheers, Paul

Ok cheers, this looks interesting. Many thanks. I see that there is a rear fog light inhibit relay and a rear light relay. There certainlt aren't many relays on my looms. There definately isn't a rear fog light inhibit relay. Is the this rear light relay the yellow one next to the starter relay on the fuse box? Cheers, Paul

I'v been trying to find an early Defender 300TDI wiring diagram 95-96 I've looked at another loom (a later model, has lots more connectrs for things, alarm, AC,etc) I saw a rear fog lamp ecu on it that goes behind the gauges. A white transparent square 4 pin connector. I don't see this on my loom, except a similar connector but a bit smaller. I see that there's a headlight feed that goes into it. Does anybody have or know if the first of the Defender 300Tdi's had this one touch pulse ecu for the rear fog lamp? Did LR move the fog lamp switch from the column to the 3 gang located on the dash end lower corner? Today I checked things again. No headlights (but all side lights) I jumped pins 2 and 8 - nothing Hazzards on, Ign off - all 4 ind flashing Indicators - hazzards off, Ign on - column stalk switch Up - nothing - column stalk switch Down - blows ind fuse (big short) I checked the Hazz socket - purple 12v, Ign On green 12v, jumped from both of these to the GR and GW left right indicators working in pairs front and back, no flash obviously. I checked continuity from the fuse (green) to the green in the multi connector for the column stalk switch, that was fine. Does this mean that the stalk is wired wrong (I bought this new) I can't see how the green/brown can be at fault because it's getting power as the out from the flasher relay for the hazzards. Just had a thought, can I jump the wires in the column stalk socket, if I can identify the wires (left and right hand indicators) that run to the flasher this should cause the short and blow the fuse or if it doesn't it mean the new column stalk is faulty. Am I thinking straight on this? Grateful for ant help. Cheers, Paul

Manythanks for the replies. To answer some of the suggestions, when I first discovered the problems this was the situation: Lights: side lights - No Ign on - front/rear LH/RH all working and relay behind gauges click Headlights - None - just a click of the relay Hazzard - with Ign off and switch on - all indicator lights flash Hazzard - switch in off position and Ign ON - nothing I jumped the purple to the socket terninals G/R G/W LH RH indicators and got the front and rear pairs continuously I tested the Green terminal in the socket with Ign On for current and nothing there. Yesterday I wanted to test the indicator stalk so I jumped from purlpe to the supply to flasher socket terminal and it blow the indicator 15A fuse when I did down for left turn. I put another fuse in to test Up for right turn -No fuse blown but no indicators. I tested the left again and it blow the fuse again. After this I have no sidelights or hazzards or this (the purple to the socket terninals G/R G/W LH RH indicators and got the front and rear pairs continuously)

Yes always a risk I know. I couldn't see any obvious damage it looked ok. I'll pull the loom off and trace the wiring and look for any damage. If none I'll try to test the flow of current through the hazzards/indicators and headlight circuits. There is already a short somewhere and no current on the ignition green.

Update on hazzard/indicators this morning I wanted to check the ignition current on the green - still no current. I jumped from purple to the supply to flasher light green and the stalk blow the indicator fuse when I moved it down for left turn. Replaced the fuse and checked the hazzard fuse and now no hazzards (which worked before this test). The fuse has the thick brown and thick white. There must be a short somewhere???

Hi Pete, no standard 12v with glass fuses. I've removed all electricals and replaced all looms with second hand 300Tdi

Back story I took on an old '85 110 H/T 2.5 n/a with a broken chassis and replaced the chassis (family thought I was mad). Then decided to go for a 300tdi/R380 upgrade plus secondhand looms (engine, bulkhead and chassis). Now 3 years later (and plenty of cider) I've layed in the looms and started testing what works and doesn't before fitting the dashboard and body panels like wings and seatbox/floor panels etc. Tub on chassis. Good points She starts on a flick of the key, runs and sounds lovely, so very happy. I have oil pressure, ignition and glow warning on at position III of key. Not so good points No indicators (Hazzards work). Power on the purple, not on the green with ignition on position III. In the socket. No head lights at all. Power comimg in to the light switch, then power to the other 2 switch contacts for the side and head lights. No blue tell tale either (for hi beam) so swapped the bulb (which is working). No difference No horn. Rear Fog light works only if holding down the spring loaded rocker switch (headlight switch must be on and tell tale is illuminated). Haven't fitted the wiper switch or gauges/instrument light loom yet because I bought 300Tdi ones, with plastic multi connectors, but the loom must be an early version because I need the ones that fit a 200Tdi (the black rubber blocks). I should have checked, but assumed a 300 loom would be a 300. That's how much I know. Still need to get hold of them. I used second hand looms so don't know what worked or not. I also don't know what should be there or not as far as components. Not easy to find the correct wiring diagram. Please, I need help. If anybody can give me a step by step guide so I can navigate my way through checking the current flow and components (header joints/switches/relays) etc., that would be great. I have a multi meter, hammer and 5 gallons of cider. Just in case I need to pull the bulkhead loom off. Seriously, if anybody can help, I will be extremely grateful. Cheers, Paul

Yes agreed. I think a mistake to keep to the original alt. I spoke to a friend of a friend who is a land rover mechanic and he said unlikely to be in the loom but more likely either something bad inside the alt, because this is not looked at when the rectifier or regulator is changed. Bench tests don't really show it under load. So because of old faulty inside bits it will burn out on long trips or it is a bad earth which again will eventually burn out the alternator. Like trying to swim up steam against the tide, instead of just swimming with the tide, it will just be working the balls off the alt when charging. So, I will have a guy look for any internal faults to see if we can find the actual cause then buy a new replacement and see how it goes. Plus add another earth strap (s) and clean up the others. I'll keep you posted. Cheers, Paul on a happier note, this weekend my old 110 was reborn with a replacement chassis which is now a rolling chassis, next weekend fitting a defender 300tdi engine and gearbox. Hopefully by next spring she'll be on the road.