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Paul butfustet

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Everything posted by Paul butfustet

  1. I setup as you said and the results were as you said.Here is a video confirmation. I had to trim back to 20mb. It was a minute long because I did it the test twice to make sure. Many thanks, I've learned something I can re-use in the future. Cheers, Paul 20220520_103716 - Copy_Trim_1_.mp4
  2. Okay, I appreciate the advice. I'll do the test that steve b says tomorrow and let you know the result. Cheers, Paul
  3. Having almost completed my 110 chassis swap and upgrade to a 300tdi/R380 I got a second hand disco transferbox off a friend, but status unknown, says 28DxxxxxxxxE 1.222 ratio 4WD on it. Now I want to fit the linkage for the Hi lo (this seens to engage ok) and the diff lock. But I'm not sure if there is a problem with the diff lock. 110 off the ground on axle stands with prop shafts on. Looking at the diff lock selector nipple, using a 10mm spanner, I can turn it to the far right there is a click/clonk when slightly rotating the hand brake drum. (I call this the 2 'o clock position when looking forward towards the windscreen and it is angled away from the gearbox). This I assume is the Diff lock engaged position. I have it in 1st gear and the handbrake drum only rotates slightly because the engine is engaged through the gearbox. If I put the gearbox in neutral, then the handbrake drum is free to fully rotate. This works in Hi and lo, same test in gear and in neutral. So I am assuming the hi lo is ok. When I turn the diff lock nipple back left, one position to the centre (I call this the 12 'o clock position) gearbox in neutral or in 1st gear, the handbrake drum can fully rotate but not the front prop. When I turn the diff lock nipple a further turn to the left (I call this the 10 'o clock position, it's angled towards the gearbox) and I'm slightly rotating the handbrake drum, I then select 1st gear, so the engine is engaged the same as in the 2 'o clock position, I can still fully rotate the handbrake drum with no resistance from the engine being engaged. Both props turn. Do I have a problem with the transferbox? Apart from getting a flat tyre repaired, this is the last problem before being able to give it a test drive. Can any kind soul please help?
  4. Yes it's got everything I would want to play in with my land rovers, but it's not mine. Devon is full of thatched buildings hidden away in it's rolling hills. I'm doing a 110 LHD conversion, on a TD5 HD chassis with a 300TDI R380 box, refurbed axles, all new suspenion, new brake system, new tank/fuel system, making sort of camper/expedition type vehicle to travel around the mountains and warmer areas of europe. That's the plan but first a shake down around cornwall this summer.
  5. I put a 300Tdi in with an R380. It was a 2.5 n/a. Plenty on ebay part no. YWC104430
  6. Update I managed to swap out the bulkhead loom for a later model version from a friend (has the little blackbox rear fog light ecu, separate left right indicator warning lights and different fuse layout). Everything works except the instrument lights and RH side/tail lights. Fuse is ok, I did a continuity test on it. I have no current feed into the fusebox so I will trace the wiring. Must be a break somewhere. Even shows just under a quarter of diesel in the tank (which is about right. I fitted a new tank and put 20 litres in it. I'll solve this light problem and let you know know. I can then fit the dash etc. Seatbox, seats, handbrake, floor panels and then the front wings, slam panel and rad surround and the bonnet. I'll take a look at the other bulkhead loom, should be easier to test now it's out. I'll wait til it's a bit warmer and sit in the garden with a gallon of cider.
  7. Many thanks for this. Great detail on exactly where the wires run and what components are on the harness. This is exactly th ediagram for this other loom i saw a few days ago. Is there a document for an earlier def 300 loom? Mine definately doesn't have the rear fog light ECO multi connector. No door switches for interior light. No headlamp voltage regulator and the fuse box onlty has the 2 yellow relays. No wiring for alarm or A/C or rear wash/wipe or neated rear screen etc. The fuses are layed out differently than this one. My Headlight/sidelight fuses are on the lower row running left to right 4 x 7.5amps 2 x 5amps....... The instrument/gauges still use the early rubber block connects and same for the wipers. I will buy a new pink headlight dip relay, behind the gauges. But still need to solve why the left indicator blows the indicator fuse and also why not the right. What's strange is the wires to the connector for the indicator stalk don't have the green/red or the green/white for the indicators where the newer version of the loom does. Cheers, Paul
  8. Ok cheers, this looks interesting. Many thanks. I see that there is a rear fog light inhibit relay and a rear light relay. There certainlt aren't many relays on my looms. There definately isn't a rear fog light inhibit relay. Is the this rear light relay the yellow one next to the starter relay on the fuse box? Cheers, Paul
  9. I'v been trying to find an early Defender 300TDI wiring diagram 95-96 I've looked at another loom (a later model, has lots more connectrs for things, alarm, AC,etc) I saw a rear fog lamp ecu on it that goes behind the gauges. A white transparent square 4 pin connector. I don't see this on my loom, except a similar connector but a bit smaller. I see that there's a headlight feed that goes into it. Does anybody have or know if the first of the Defender 300Tdi's had this one touch pulse ecu for the rear fog lamp? Did LR move the fog lamp switch from the column to the 3 gang located on the dash end lower corner? Today I checked things again. No headlights (but all side lights) I jumped pins 2 and 8 - nothing Hazzards on, Ign off - all 4 ind flashing Indicators - hazzards off, Ign on - column stalk switch Up - nothing - column stalk switch Down - blows ind fuse (big short) I checked the Hazz socket - purple 12v, Ign On green 12v, jumped from both of these to the GR and GW left right indicators working in pairs front and back, no flash obviously. I checked continuity from the fuse (green) to the green in the multi connector for the column stalk switch, that was fine. Does this mean that the stalk is wired wrong (I bought this new) I can't see how the green/brown can be at fault because it's getting power as the out from the flasher relay for the hazzards. Just had a thought, can I jump the wires in the column stalk socket, if I can identify the wires (left and right hand indicators) that run to the flasher this should cause the short and blow the fuse or if it doesn't it mean the new column stalk is faulty. Am I thinking straight on this? Grateful for ant help. Cheers, Paul
  10. Manythanks for the replies. To answer some of the suggestions, when I first discovered the problems this was the situation: Lights: side lights - No Ign on - front/rear LH/RH all working and relay behind gauges click Headlights - None - just a click of the relay Hazzard - with Ign off and switch on - all indicator lights flash Hazzard - switch in off position and Ign ON - nothing I jumped the purple to the socket terninals G/R G/W LH RH indicators and got the front and rear pairs continuously I tested the Green terminal in the socket with Ign On for current and nothing there. Yesterday I wanted to test the indicator stalk so I jumped from purlpe to the supply to flasher socket terminal and it blow the indicator 15A fuse when I did down for left turn. I put another fuse in to test Up for right turn -No fuse blown but no indicators. I tested the left again and it blow the fuse again. After this I have no sidelights or hazzards or this (the purple to the socket terninals G/R G/W LH RH indicators and got the front and rear pairs continuously)
  11. Yes always a risk I know. I couldn't see any obvious damage it looked ok. I'll pull the loom off and trace the wiring and look for any damage. If none I'll try to test the flow of current through the hazzards/indicators and headlight circuits. There is already a short somewhere and no current on the ignition green.
  12. Update on hazzard/indicators this morning I wanted to check the ignition current on the green - still no current. I jumped from purple to the supply to flasher light green and the stalk blow the indicator fuse when I moved it down for left turn. Replaced the fuse and checked the hazzard fuse and now no hazzards (which worked before this test). The fuse has the thick brown and thick white. There must be a short somewhere???
  13. Hi Pete, no standard 12v with glass fuses. I've removed all electricals and replaced all looms with second hand 300Tdi
  14. Back story I took on an old '85 110 H/T 2.5 n/a with a broken chassis and replaced the chassis (family thought I was mad). Then decided to go for a 300tdi/R380 upgrade plus secondhand looms (engine, bulkhead and chassis). Now 3 years later (and plenty of cider) I've layed in the looms and started testing what works and doesn't before fitting the dashboard and body panels like wings and seatbox/floor panels etc. Tub on chassis. Good points She starts on a flick of the key, runs and sounds lovely, so very happy. I have oil pressure, ignition and glow warning on at position III of key. Not so good points No indicators (Hazzards work). Power on the purple, not on the green with ignition on position III. In the socket. No head lights at all. Power comimg in to the light switch, then power to the other 2 switch contacts for the side and head lights. No blue tell tale either (for hi beam) so swapped the bulb (which is working). No difference No horn. Rear Fog light works only if holding down the spring loaded rocker switch (headlight switch must be on and tell tale is illuminated). Haven't fitted the wiper switch or gauges/instrument light loom yet because I bought 300Tdi ones, with plastic multi connectors, but the loom must be an early version because I need the ones that fit a 200Tdi (the black rubber blocks). I should have checked, but assumed a 300 loom would be a 300. That's how much I know. Still need to get hold of them. I used second hand looms so don't know what worked or not. I also don't know what should be there or not as far as components. Not easy to find the correct wiring diagram. Please, I need help. If anybody can give me a step by step guide so I can navigate my way through checking the current flow and components (header joints/switches/relays) etc., that would be great. I have a multi meter, hammer and 5 gallons of cider. Just in case I need to pull the bulkhead loom off. Seriously, if anybody can help, I will be extremely grateful. Cheers, Paul
  15. Yes agreed. I think a mistake to keep to the original alt. I spoke to a friend of a friend who is a land rover mechanic and he said unlikely to be in the loom but more likely either something bad inside the alt, because this is not looked at when the rectifier or regulator is changed. Bench tests don't really show it under load. So because of old faulty inside bits it will burn out on long trips or it is a bad earth which again will eventually burn out the alternator. Like trying to swim up steam against the tide, instead of just swimming with the tide, it will just be working the balls off the alt when charging. So, I will have a guy look for any internal faults to see if we can find the actual cause then buy a new replacement and see how it goes. Plus add another earth strap (s) and clean up the others. I'll keep you posted. Cheers, Paul on a happier note, this weekend my old 110 was reborn with a replacement chassis which is now a rolling chassis, next weekend fitting a defender 300tdi engine and gearbox. Hopefully by next spring she'll be on the road.
  16. Ok lovely. Yes I have a multi meter and it does have the beep. I checked all the gauge cluster bulbs with it. Very handy tool. Ah, ok I'll download that pdf. I did find a RRC electrical fault finding manual with the circuit diagrams and the tests that can be carried out. But it only identifies if you have a faulty alt or bat not why they became faulty if you know what I mean. Ok, I'll check out the 200tdi alt. Many thanks, cheers, Paul
  17. Yes, unfortunately I have to fix the alternator again, 120 a shot, or would it be better just to get another new cheap one? But I need to find the cause. I'll find a local auto electrics guy to see if he can uncover anything. I can start to trace and open up the wiring loom. Like you say, the circuit can't be that complex. Wouldn't mind if it was just blowing a fuse!! Appreciate your thoughts. I'll keep you posted. It can't be that unique!!
  18. Hi, long lag in getting back. But I've got the RRC on the road. There were rusted screws that hold the gauges in place in the gauge cluster. They apparently earth them as well. Put in new ones and all is well there. BUT, the alternator is still a problem. I had the alternator repaired £120, after 2 days I checked for charging, it wasn't. I took it back and the guy said 'very unusual' but I'll do it on warranty. Before connecting the wires the repair guys wanted to check the wiring and did a resistance check and said all seems ok. It was charging for a week or so. I did a long family visit, after lock down, some 600 miles, thought I would give it a good run. I came home and I parked it up. After 5 days I went to check it out and it was totally dead. Called out the AA and with a jump she fired back into life. The guy said that I need a new alternator. I said it's just been repaired. Oh you have a problem it said. Nothing more I can do right now. Your battery is 8.98 v it's 50/50 if you can save it. So, now I'm depressed. It runs lovely, 20 miles to the gallon, doesn't burn or leak oil or water. Lovely to drive. Dispair!!! Where do I start to look for a possible cause or do I did it a grave? I opened a gallon of scrumpy!!
  19. Hi, The beast is still at the garage. I forgot to mention that it fail 2nd run on the emissions. My mechanic got into the engine management computer and said all looked ok even the lambda sensors working. I've just bought a new Y exhaust down pipe with cats, hope these will catch any bad gases. The only thing is this bloody SRS warning light. I may go into the garage and ask if I can spend the day fiddling with everything. It's the only thing now stopping a re-test. Got 2 q's: Is there a relay for the SRS system? Is there a fuse in the main fuse box for the ignition system? The tell-tale no charge lamp still isn't working and I wondered if it could be as simple as a blown fuse. And yes it hates water. I'm going to have to address the leaking area under the scuttle panel soon! Many thanks for any advise. Cheers, Paul
  20. Oh Many thanks for reply, yes I did do all that earlier. However, I have solved it. I picked up a thread here with a similar problem, that being a blown fuse (no.14 main fuse box) instruments and reversing lights. So checked the reversing lights and yes, they were NOT on, so pulled the 10A and it was blown. Thank God. Now I can sleep easy tonight. Next week MoT and after 9 years, back on the road again (I think that's a song somewhere)? Cheers, Paul
  21. Just to add to the mystery (for me) but the illuminations (night time) lights also aren't working, from the steering stalk switch. Is there a master fuse for them? When I put the hazzard switch on the tell tail red light works so there must be another power supply to them I guess.
  22. I almost had it all. After 9 years off the road, I nearly got an MOT yesterday. A frame ball joint, SRS lamp on, Petrol leak on steel return pipe, hi beam tell tale lamp not working. I thought I would do the simple one first, the hi beam tell tale lamp not working. I very gentle got the plastic body out, had to unplug some connectors to access the bulb holders. I swapped the hi beam holder and bulb with the indicator one and YES,YES,YES hi beam tell tale is working. I got my tester out and checked for continuity on the hi beam bulb but it's ok so put it back in the indicator spot and hey, both working. Job done so i thought. I gently eased the body back in and thought ok let's just check again. Now NOTHING working, only the hi bean and indicator tell tale and the SRS of course. PLEASE HELP !!!!!!! 1994 3.9V8 softdash Where do I start? It's booked in for the ball joint, fuel leak and SRS lamp fault early next week.
  23. I did wonder. I'll whip it off and take it to a man in a shed for testing and repair. Cheers
  24. As well as my 200tdi defender, which is still in the garage waiting for the timing kit to be done but now a new rear x member with worling lights😀 I also have a RRC 3.9 auto softdash. I've been doing a lot of welding during the lockdown and now ready for a pre MOT check. However, the ign light doesn't light when you turn the ign on and the rev counter now works when it feels like it. Any ideas where to start the step by step it find what is at fault? The battery has never been connected during any welding. Everything else works as it should. It's been off the road sice 2010.
  25. Many thanks for your step by step guide. I now understand a lot more how this works. It turned out to be a bad hazz switch, which was new 6 months ago. The turn signal pin in the switch was dead with Ign on and indicator on (one of the three pins). When I put the tester probe across to one of the other 2 pins they worked, even the tell tale light. I ordered an Allmakes £11. Last one was £5. Finally, today, everything electrical actually working. Loom taped up, plastic conduit and retaining clips. Many thanks again.
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