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Getting Comfortable
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About Will@LRW

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  1. Ideally you would leave it 24 hours to settle onto the crank before starting the engine, which can account for even good quality seals leaking This and a few other of Mike's videos around the same time are a good exploration of the issues with the crank seal.
  2. Here's a pump on a 2004 300Tdi with no EGR. Here's my 97 pump with the lever. The red circles show about where the lever engages. As suggested above, the only thing I can think it would do is affect the rate of change of fuelling based on the force applied by the accelerator pedal.
  3. It is only on EGR 300Tdis. It may be the "Load Dependent Compensation" as detailed in the PDF manual at the bottom of this thread: I may be wrong, as there are lots of modules for the VE pump in that manual, but it states "These adjustments lead to โ€œsofterโ€ engine operation, and cleaner exhaust gas at part- and full-load". Agree it's a damn annoying lever to be there when you want to take the top cover off!
  4. One of two part numbers as per this thread: Diagram is here: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/200tdi/power-steering-pump_53159#1 I would first check that the belt is tight enough and isn't slipping. My 300Tdi's belt slips on damp mornings and produces notchy steering until the belt has dried a bit
  5. I had to jack the vehicle up to get the boxes under the chassis rails, when only resting on cardboard. This is on a flat, solid driveway. I lowered using a strap on an engine crane through the door. I don't think using a trolley jack to lower in a driveway scenario is particularly useful. In one of the photos here you'll see how far I had to raise it up: https://www.landroverexpedition.com/technical/replacing-the-gearbox-clutch-and-transfer-box/ Another option might be taking off the lower link to axle and shock absorber and that'll give some more clearance as the chassis leg rises
  6. Engine bay and fuel tank between the chassis rails. Stick a motor where the gearbox is onto the transfer box. At least that's what makes sense to me
  7. Depends how strong your connection to a Defender is. I'll be hopefully rebuilding mine in the next 5 years. And then in 20 years when electric conversions are more affordable and well-trodden, i'll do that. If I had to commute in a urban area a lot, I'd get a modern car and leave the Defender for other stuff. Or, the 70th V8 editions are ULEZ compliant ๐Ÿ˜‰
  8. It used to be a military vehicle on the reg RL67AA. Date into service 9th Oct 1998 with the description "CAR UTY MED CL 4X4 L/ROVER DFR 110 S/W W/50MM/BALL CL 7PIN ELE INT/CHANGE W/NATO T/H12PE". What this spec actually means or where it served I don't know. The contract code on the seatbox plate as mentioned above might be "LV2A/265" There was at least one other vehicle the same as yours entered service on the same date. Other vehicles with that description entered service beginning 1996 and were cast around 2001/02, which fits with your 2004 cast date for a 1998. They were either red, w
  9. Thanks chaps. Now fixed in the diagram: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/200tdi/coolant-pump_53138#14 I'm always interested to hear where we can improve on the diagrams!
  10. ยฃ33k is an unprecedented price for a ROW 300tdi in the UK. The seller is trying it on. They've only really sold for low 20ks (used, in similar condition). I know the vehicle you're referring to and have seen it a couple of times over the years. It's had mods which have been removed by this seller. The fact it was first registered 2010, had its first MOT the same time and has an age related plate means it was likely imported. Other ROW defenders registered in 2010 have 10 plates. That first MOT lists it as 53k km; it may be a mistype of 5.3k km, but the second MOT is 8k miles so it may have mor
  11. It's happened to me twice and I've seen it a couple more times. Typically the hub seal fails and grease gets out or water gets in. Or maybe cheap, soft parts Price of parts would be < ยฃ150 but the labour is probably the thing, as invariably the hub can be hard to get off if the inner race welded to the stub axle.
  12. I sit at 65mph on the speedo. 70 is fine but a bit loud, and that is with a 1.2 transfer box. Also I prefer not to rag the nuts off it as it's an older engine (190k+) and I get better economy circa 33mpg; when i try to go around 70 it'll drop to 29mpg
  13. F is the same digit for 1989 and 2015 (G also 1990 and 2016). Most online vin decoders were written before 2015, or don't take account of the full 84-16 gamut of possibilities. I've updated mine to take account of the latest Defenders: https://www.lrworkshop.com/vin-decoder. Decoding correctly with identical lettering for different years turned out to be a bit tricky, but I got there in the end ๐Ÿ˜ As with the others, it looks good for it's age. I would get the chassis steam cleaned and then dinitroled if you plan on keeping it ๐Ÿ‘
  14. Your post brought my attention to some parts that would be listed as false positive applications if the part is based on an axle range. This should be fixed now and would have removed a few options from the list you gave above. Cheers Will
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