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    South Shropshire

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  1. Looking good 😎👌 What offset are those wheels? That looks to be a serious amount of dish!
  2. Excellent! Look forward to seeing the pics tomorrow 👍
  3. Apologies if you've already bought your new tyres Chambo. The Cooper Discoverer AT3 tyres I've got on my 110 are pretty quiet, seem grip ok in the situations I've found myself in so far (which is nothing particularly challenging, a fairly typical mixture of tarmac and fields as you would on a farm). They are 265/75/16 and for what it's worth, in my opinion, they look great in Tesco's car park, a muddy field, a snowy forest track, on the M6, towing a mini digger...😁
  4. It's definitely got a touch of John Player Special about it 😎😁
  5. Yes indeed! I'm relieved I didn't resort to taking it all to bits before giving it one more go...
  6. Update for this evening: All sorted 😊 (hopefully) After tea I jacked up the front end, took the drive member off and turned the steering from side to side a few times (it wouldn't go lock to lock, presumably due to the CV joint sitting too far inboard), and resorted to a bit more gentle jiggling and wiggling, turning of the driveshaft and pulling outwards. And out it popped! I've no idea what did the trick specifically, and it took no force at all (in much the same way as it took no force to cause it to pop in in the first place), but we're back in business. Thanks for all who chipped in with suggestions. I hope there's nothing amiss inside the hub, but at least I can plan for a proper swivel housing/seal/bearing/disc replacement job when time and funds allow 👍
  7. Yes, it does. The passenger side fitted perfectly 👍
  8. I can rotate the shaft and I can rotate the hub. I've tried rotating the shaft and pulling it out at the same time, and also wiggling the shaft and pulling it out at the same time. The shaft will go in slightly and come back out so far, but not far enough. It's as if something isn't lined up or it's catching on something that's preventing it coming out far enough. It's the same whether the drive member is in place or not.
  9. Everything slides nicely and it's all free moving. It's something further in the hub itself that's causing the problem.
  10. I don't really want to have to strip the whole thing down until I'm ready to do a full swivel, bearing and CV joint change. The issue is that the driveshaft was sticking out far enough initially, and following the drive member removal. It was only when I was cleaning up the splines that it sort of slipped in towards the diff and wouldn't come back out. There's still in/out movement in the driveshaft and everything feels nice and free, it's just as though it's gone past some sort of detent and won't come back out now.
  11. I've got a bit of a dilemma after changing my front drive members... The passenger side was fine. Got that one done in 15 minutes. The driver's side wasn't so straightforward though. I realised some time ago that I might have some problems with it when I removed the dust cover to find the circlip and shims were a rusty mess. I managed to get the circlip off in bits eventually, but the drive member was stuck fast on the end of the driveshaft. I cleaned it up, squirted Plus Gas at it on a regular basis and even tried using a bearing puller to move it, but nothing worked. In the end I had to resort to belting the end of the driveshaft with a sledgehammer. Not ideal, but it did the job eventually. Each time it moved, I packed out the space between the rear of the drive member and the hub face with some scraps of ally, so that I wasn't just smacking the outer end of the CV joint against the inner end (see first pic). Eventually it gave way to the mighty hammer. After cleaning up the splines, I fitted the new heavy duty drive member, but somehow the driveshaft has moved too far in and it won't pull back out so I can fit the shims and circlip. I've tried screwing a bolt in the end and pulling it, but it makes no difference. The annoying thing is, when I was cleaning everything up, I felt the driveshaft move inwards further than it had before and sort of 'lock'. I assumed I just needed to jiggle it and pull outwards and it would become an back in position. A bit like a dislocated shoulder I guess! The second pic shows how it looks at the moment. It's almost completely flush with the end of drive member. Any ideas on how to get it to pull out fully again please??
  12. Oh dear! They don't look very happy do they? 😯 As Mike says, you've got nothing to loose by trying get them back into shape, but if it was me I'd be putting a post in the "wanted" section for some replacements or having a look on eBay.
  13. You'll get there. Let us know when it's back in place 👍
  14. I refitted my tank on my own. It was a bit of a faff but definitely doable. Obviously the tank needs to be empty to start with. I found that by positioning the tank with the front lifted up in between the chassis legs and the back tilted down just enough to get your hand in there made it fairly easy to reconnect the fuel pipes and electrical connector to the fuel pump. As Simon mentioned in his post, it can help to release the clips that hold the fuel lines to the chassis so you can pull them back a bit more to help with reconnection. I used some lengths of wood and axle stands to help position the tank and a trolley jack under the bash plate to lift it into place. I think the hardest part was getting the bolts that hold the front of the bash plate to the forward cross member to line up with their holes.
  15. Now we're talking! I'll have a look at that group if I can find it 👍
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