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Getting Comfortable
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About Filbee

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    South Shropshire
  1. Ah, well done. Sounds like you've sorted that one out 👍 And 12 amps is a lot closer to my 13 amps, which makes me feel a bit better. It doesn't solve my overheating relay issue but would that extra amp of current make it too hot?
  2. Steady on! You'll be telling me it's got aircon next as well! Thanks for the heads-up on the blipper. I guess I'll need to get another one off eBay and get it coded to the ECU. And a new key cut at my local locksmith type establishment.
  3. What is this "central locking" you speak of??? 😂 Ex-utility Defenders tend to be a bit light on creature comforts! So no central locking. It does have an alarm and immobiliser fitted but it must have been disabled as I don't need to press anything on the blipper to start up. That's why I just need to find out it the key has a built in transponder and have to go to a main dealer and pay for a genuine key, get it matched to the ECU and pay through the nose...
  4. My ex-utility 110 TD5 (2006) only came with one key and blipper so I want to get a spare. Plus the original key is getting a bit worn. My question is does the key have a transponder hidden in it? I want to know if I can just get a key cut at my local key place, or if I need to get a proper LR key blank and get the main dealer to cut it and match the transponder to the truck.
  5. Thank for the update! Still sounds very low compared to mine... On the plus side I don't appear to have any smoke (yet). I managed to check for voltage drop across the relay, and it was negligible. Not sure what other points a can check as there is no way that I can work out how I can check the voltage drop between the relay output and the fuel pump. Another thing I noticed was that the glow plug relay was also a bit warm. Nothing like as warm as the fuel pump one though. And I don't think it's due to heat transfer from the fuel pump relay because I moved them apart for that ve
  6. Thanks for taking the time to check. Only 3 amps though. Mine is more like 13 amps! No smoke though, just a hot relay! Are you sure it's only 3 amps? The manual says maximum 15 amps. That's quite a difference. Got me more worried than I was before now....
  7. First thing I did was swap the relay for a new one. When that made no difference I cut back the two main wires by about an inch and crimped and soldered two new female spade connectors to make sure there were no issues with the external connections.
  8. Thank you for the advice, much appreciated. I'll check the voltages across the relay but I don't think I'll be able to check the pump terminals! I measured the resistance across the power feed wire from the fuel pump plug to the relay socket when I changed the pump and it was zero. I guess I should mention that as far as I can tell the overheating seems to be local to the relay. The wires are only warm for an inch or so from the relay socket, if that.
  9. Again, forgive me if this is another silly question, but is there anything I can usefully and relatively easily measure to tell me if I do have a problem and if so, which part of the circuit/loom it might be?
  10. The connections at the pump appeared to be in good order. No sign of them turning that lovely shade of green, the female sockets in the plug looked nice and clean and the plug was a nice snug fit without being too tight, if you know what I mean.
  11. That's what I'm worried about. It's one thing having an overheating relay but another altogether worse situation if the insulation starts melting! How can you tell if there's a poor connection? Can that cause an increase in current draw? Apologies if that's a dumb question... I did notice that the connector plug on top of the fuel pump had lost one of the clippy bits that lock it in position but the other one was fine and the plug fitted very snuggly to the corresponding socket on the pump. I'm afraid the dark art of electrickery isn't my strong suit. Give me something I can put a
  12. I have a problem with an over heating fuel pump relay on my 2006 110. I'm assuming that the overheating is due to excessive current draw so can anyone tell me what is considered to be "normal" current draw at idle whilst stationary please? I know the LR workshop manual says up to a maximum of 15 amps, but I'd like to know if anyone has or could measure the actual current draw on their Defender. I used a little DC clamp meter on mine and it was quick and easy to do. I'm trying a different approach to my original thread as I've had no replies so far...
  13. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this... The fuel pump relay on my recently acquired 110 TD5 hardtop (ex utility) is getting very hot. The original yellow relay was playing up by occasionally not operating, so I pulled it out and noticed it had brown burn marks on the casing next to the terminals attached to the main pump feed wires (white/purple). I changed the relay for a new pattern one of the same spec. Made no difference, still getting really hot. Next I replaced the spade connectors with proper uninsulated crimped ones and even ran some solder into the conn
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