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Getting Comfortable
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About Filbee

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    South Shropshire
  1. https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/mud-shields-flaps/ I fitted a full set of Gywn Lewis mudflaps and mudshields to my 110 hardtop last year. The rear mudflaps dismount in seconds when you want to remove them, and as far as unintended dismounting goes, I'm sure I hit 70mph once and they didn't fall off 😁 The front mudflaps aren't quick release, and it would be a bit of a faff to remove them but then I'm not sure why you'd need to take them off regularly anyway. The rear flaps attach to a redesigned rear tub brace (you just swap the original one for the Gywn Lewis
  2. If there's no noise from the fuel pump, it's also worth checking the fuel pump relay under the driver's seat if you've not done so already. Mine cooked itself.
  3. Hmmm, maybe I need to research this a bit more! I thought it would cost me about double if it was M1 rather than N1.
  4. My TD5 110 hardtop is registered as tax class N1 and gets a class 7 MOT. I have been debating whether it could be reclassified as M1 and class 4 now I've fitted a pair of removable seats in the back and at some point will fit some side windows. On balance I think the saving I make on the tax each year (it's a 2006 so if it was M1 I'd have to pay a lot more than N1) outweighs the lower speed limit and the class 7 MOT.
  5. Ah, well done. Sounds like you've sorted that one out 👍 And 12 amps is a lot closer to my 13 amps, which makes me feel a bit better. It doesn't solve my overheating relay issue but would that extra amp of current make it too hot?
  6. Steady on! You'll be telling me it's got aircon next as well! Thanks for the heads-up on the blipper. I guess I'll need to get another one off eBay and get it coded to the ECU. And a new key cut at my local locksmith type establishment.
  7. What is this "central locking" you speak of??? 😂 Ex-utility Defenders tend to be a bit light on creature comforts! So no central locking. It does have an alarm and immobiliser fitted but it must have been disabled as I don't need to press anything on the blipper to start up. That's why I just need to find out it the key has a built in transponder and have to go to a main dealer and pay for a genuine key, get it matched to the ECU and pay through the nose...
  8. My ex-utility 110 TD5 (2006) only came with one key and blipper so I want to get a spare. Plus the original key is getting a bit worn. My question is does the key have a transponder hidden in it? I want to know if I can just get a key cut at my local key place, or if I need to get a proper LR key blank and get the main dealer to cut it and match the transponder to the truck.
  9. Thank for the update! Still sounds very low compared to mine... On the plus side I don't appear to have any smoke (yet). I managed to check for voltage drop across the relay, and it was negligible. Not sure what other points a can check as there is no way that I can work out how I can check the voltage drop between the relay output and the fuel pump. Another thing I noticed was that the glow plug relay was also a bit warm. Nothing like as warm as the fuel pump one though. And I don't think it's due to heat transfer from the fuel pump relay because I moved them apart for that ve
  10. Thanks for taking the time to check. Only 3 amps though. Mine is more like 13 amps! No smoke though, just a hot relay! Are you sure it's only 3 amps? The manual says maximum 15 amps. That's quite a difference. Got me more worried than I was before now....
  11. First thing I did was swap the relay for a new one. When that made no difference I cut back the two main wires by about an inch and crimped and soldered two new female spade connectors to make sure there were no issues with the external connections.
  12. Thank you for the advice, much appreciated. I'll check the voltages across the relay but I don't think I'll be able to check the pump terminals! I measured the resistance across the power feed wire from the fuel pump plug to the relay socket when I changed the pump and it was zero. I guess I should mention that as far as I can tell the overheating seems to be local to the relay. The wires are only warm for an inch or so from the relay socket, if that.
  13. Again, forgive me if this is another silly question, but is there anything I can usefully and relatively easily measure to tell me if I do have a problem and if so, which part of the circuit/loom it might be?
  14. The connections at the pump appeared to be in good order. No sign of them turning that lovely shade of green, the female sockets in the plug looked nice and clean and the plug was a nice snug fit without being too tight, if you know what I mean.
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