JonGM13

I am trying to find out if the pressure switches on the RRC and P38 ABS pumps are interchangeable. Also, has anyone swapped ABS to non-ABS on an RRC who could give me in detail what needs to be done? This is a final resort if I cannot get my ABS to come to life!!!

Are the Pressure switches on the RRC ABS pump interchangeable with a P38 one? I have been informed that the combined P38 pump and accumulator can be used!

Are the Pressure switches on the RRC ABS pump interchangeable with a P38 one? I have been informed that the combined P38 pump and accumulator can be used!

Hi Bowie69 Sent you a PM but I repeated it thinking the first hadn't gone, the 2nd has more info.

Sorry about sounding a bit abrupt in my reply.

Hi, I apologise if it came across like that. I am getting so frustrated with something that must be so simple, started on this beginning of September! This year!! bearings are fine, we have new discs on rear, new pads all around, double checked wear tab connections. the annoying thing is that it was all ok, drove it home. Lights all went out. left her for a couple of days then I noticed the resavoir was brimmer and it had forced out some fluid. when I switched ignition on the pump ran for ages till it had built up pressure and the level had dropped to upper mark. So really that’s a lot fluid gone back in. I have a spare block on stand by! if the pump has been run and pressurised then when ever I turn on it doesn’t run again unless I press the pedal or leave it for a couple of hours. I took her down the road for a short drive and the pedal feel is good, brakes work well, you hear pump cutting in for only seconds. blink test keeps giving 2:3. And lights stay on when I remove plug off back of pressure switch which workshop say is wiring fault. I’ve been trying to find the problem now for a couple weeks as i said. From working to not working the vehicle was stationary, I understand your thoughts re bearings. can the brake fluid reservoir sender break down / could I override it any way to test? the both red lights are on as soon as turn on ign. When pressurised up they both slightly blink then both become bright.

If you read I have done this several times now. It is giving me 2:3 which from what I can find to be the Pressure switch.

Bowie69 this is what I have inherited and desperate for someone to help eradicate!!!

Could the cap sensor fail? We had reservoir at correct level but when the back feed happens it fills the rest our brim full and I noticed it had forced fluid out , so could the pressure get in and mess up the sensor?

Hi yes both lights are on when turn on ign. In manual it says if lights stay on when you take off the multi plug at back of pressure sensor then it’s a wiring problem! Lights stay on. I tried her up and down the road and both stayed on. fluid level sensor is connected I have tried unplugging and plugging it. No change. Not sure how to test it is faulty? I have tried doing the reading flash codes and I get 2 : 3 which I think is pressure switch but have changed pump and pressure switch

Been trying to get my ‘92 finished and on the road. I’m ok with most things but electrics are a no! My RRC has had so many extras fitted that I am removing bit by bit to get her to a standard level. I was all ready for MOT then both ABS lights are on and won’t go out now! Last week fine! It is in wiring. The other thing away from electrics after several hours the brake reservoir back fills so the pump takes over 45 seconds but once system up it’s ok. Could this be an airlock somewhere that hasn’t been eradicated or are the valves failing in the block? We have done a lot of pipe replacement etc.

Is there anyone here that is knowledgeable on the Schuler/Formula transfer boxes? I need to know some info as I have an overfinch with gearbox problems! cheers