Jump to content

Petesrover

Getting Comfortable
  • Posts

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Petesrover

  1. Thanks for the reply, I know they are different so will be different part numbers, but just wondering if they bothe have the same crank shaft hole diameter?
  2. Can any one tell me if a 200tdi crankshaft damper & pully will fit onto a 300tdi crankshaft & timing cover, to save me buying a 200tdi pully & damper to compair with my 300tdi? I am fitting an old 300tdi engine into a series land rover & would like to do away with the belt tensioner, power steering pump & idler wheel. Thank you for any advice.
  3. Not been on here for a while so very sorry for the late reply, Firsty, thank you for the above advice, it always makes a job easier when you know it has been done before, & even easier with a few tips. I do not want to do any welding to the chasis as the only reason I have gone back to Landrover is for the tax & mot excemption & the fact that parts are so cheap & although pigs to work on in the 70's compaired to cars of the time, they are now much simpler & easier to work on than the modern cars, with so much less to go wrong, I have now got the engine & box in the chassis & am thinking I may move the oil filter to make up a simple mount for the engine, or box the filter in, or just weld an extension to the original plate & try & catch a bolt hole infront of the filter, but first I want a door on my workshop as it is getting cold. Also wondering how dificult it would be to convert alternator & water pump to V belt drive? Mount alternator where air con pump would fit & fit viscos fan onto the alternator, thus doing away with belt tensioner, power stearing pump, idler on timing case & need of an electric fan? I know it is a bit more work, but less to go wrong?
  4. Thank you, do you know if he will galvanise them, or would you not bother to galvanise?
  5. How young you all are, many many years before my time so I have been told, cars did not rust as bad as they do now, many cars of the 20's, 30's & 40's were parked up just for being out of fashion, cars of the 50's did not normaly show much rust untill the 80's thats 30 years & some early land rover chasis pre 70's were very solid many years after, I won't mention landrover chasis of the 70's, but to be fair many cars of the 70's were rust buckets, maybe the newer cars are solid again, I wouldnt know as I can't afford one & wouldn't know how to repair it if it went wrong, I did have a 2002 landrover discovery with a rotten chasis, rotten boddy & a naff ecu or what ever you call those things that make modern cars unreliable.
  6. I am on the lookout for a reparable series 2 or 3 bulkhead, but if I can't find one I was thinking to posibly fit a new galvanised one from padocks, I do not intend ever selling the L Rover & live by the sea so was going to have a repaired one dipped & risk any buckles, my question is have anyone fitted a galvanised bulkhead from Padocks & do they fit ok? do they look ok? & is the metal as thick & strong as the original ones?
  7. Thanks for all the advice, more to making another bulkhead fit than I recond on, will keep looking for a series one. That is a lovely job you did on yours Peaklander, very impressed.
  8. What a lovely find, does anyone know what it sold for?
  9. I know very little about series L Rovers & even less about modern ones & I have some strange questions & sorry if they have been asked before but I can't see it on here. I want to quickly build up an old series 3 that has completly rotted out body wise, including dash, I have a good chasis & want to fit a galvanised bulkhead but can't go to the expense of a new one on a 2nd old L Rover that will have very little use & will not be sold, my main problem is sourcing doors & bulkhead, the rest of the pannels are good, series bulkheads are realy expensive, but the landrovers after the series are much lower priced with less rust & damage than the series I have seen, would it be much trouble & look out of place to fit a 90 or 110 bulkhead on a series 3 chasis with original series wings, floor, windscreen ect? would it be the same to fit a defender bulkhead? Not botherd about what dash but do need to fit original clutch brakes & door hinges, dont mind a little welding as am expecting to have to repair a bulkhead anyway & was then going to try to get it galvanised. Many thanks, Pete.
  10. What a great & simple idea, chain grease, my mates used to laugh at me because I used to lubricate my rear chain with a paint brush & gear oil because the chain grease was expensive ( I'm not tight, just carefull ) but think I will get a can ot two now for my L rover springs, they are seized solid & I am awaiting new leaf springs from paddocks, I favour running springs dry but as the L rover is only going to do a couple of hundred miles a year, I was going to strip the springs down & grease them, but I think now I will put what grease I can in with them on there side & give them a good spraying with chain oil.
  11. I used to run an old MOT exempt series 2 only had to pay insurance didn't use it much, parked it up for a couple of years, whent to use it & brake pipe ends rusted through, copper pipes but will have to renew all the brake pipes, no wheel cylinders siezed so of road awaiting new set of brake flexible hoses from Paddocks, I think not having to MOT old vehicals is great, saves money, time taking to MOT station & the hastle of finding a sensible MOT tester as it is all down to the testers opinion, there are many vehicals on the road with curent MOT's that are not safe, I used to be an MOT tester & I was very concerned with the steering, then brakes as I thought these very important, with the rest of the test of minor importance, it is good that any one can still have there car MOT'd if it makes them feel safer, but please remember whether your car has a curent MOT or not, IT HAS TO BE IN A ROADWORTHY CONDITION BEFORE BEING DRIVEN ON THE ROAD, & the MOT certificate only covers roadworthyness on the day it was issued & if involved in a bad accident & the car is inspected & found to be unsafe, some insurers may invalidate the insurance, I always give my old L rover a quick check if it has been off the road for a few months & I am sure others on here do aswell not only for safety but also I think if any of us are stopped by Vossa for a roadside check ( & I think this is unlikely unless they set up shop up the road from a vintage car rallie) & we are driving a MOT excemp L rover they are going to look far more closely at it than a modern car with a newish MOT or MOT excempt with a MOT so can understand why many of you prefer to MOT your old L Rovers & many like myself choose not too, either way, isnt it great not having to pay road tax & super cheep insurance, safe driving everyone.
  12. I have recently got a landrover again after about 30 years away from them, tls servo is great & I advise any one to do the conversion, I started driving cars, hgv, psv & motorbikes all on drum brakes, a good brake would lock the wheels, it was then down to the nut on the steering wheel in an emergency to either push the brake to nearly locking point & hold it there or lock the wheels & release as fast as posible & it was amazing how fast you could stop even on greasy roads, I have also driven bad brakes ie series land rovers flat out in reverse with very predictable brakes every time, you gradualy roll to a stop over a distance of about 60 to 100 feet if your lucky, the main reason I have gone back to a series landrover is because there is no abs **** on them or ecu's to go wrong, yes disc is good but so are drums, timing chains are better than belts but belts are cheeper to produce, discs are also cheeper to produce & maintain than drum brakes, but there are also fewer parts to go wrong & given the choice I would prefer disc over drum but only because they are easier & cheeper to maintain also is not some of the fun of running a series doing maintenance with tools & parts as it was done 60 years ago? Just my twopenith worth, all the best, Pete.
  13. What a fantastic forum with so much info on replacing engines, I am putting a 300tdi into a series 3 galvanised chasis & would love to see a dimentioned drawing of the fabricated mount, so much time must have gone into checking dimensions to make the first one & it was very kind to share but unfortunatly we can no longer view the dimensions, I would also extend it a bit to give more room to change the filter, would it be posible to show dimensioned drawing again? many thanks for all the advice, Pete.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy