biffer4240
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Posts posted by biffer4240
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16 hours ago, RRC200Tdi said:
Can you use your transmission and transfer case mounts to locate the engine or are you doing something non-standard?
no as it been cut down to 88 inch so was wondering if any one has a distance from front of chassis ect as i know will have to make a short rear prop but been told the front of all chassis are the same up to front outriggers
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hi guys i was wondering if any one has any measurements for welding in new engine mounts to fit a 300tdi engine into what i think is classic range rover chassis
many thanks
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10 hours ago, Escape said:
That will depend on the brand and possibly even the thread. An agressive remould like the Insa Turbo in 235/85R16 is likely to be over 32".
thankyou for your reply never thort tyres could be so complex
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20 hours ago, LiftedDisco said:
235-85 R16 will run at just under 32” (31.7” to be precise) - I originally ran some 215-85 R16’s which everyone thought were too narrow but, in reality, were cracking tyres that would cut through the mire and get some decent drip whilst also giving a decent turning circle.
The 215-85 R16’s will give you a tyre size of 30.3” so not quite so much clearance under the diff...
thankyou very much how ever insa turbo dont do a 215 or 225 so maybe need to look at dimonds or maybe another type
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11 hours ago, Snagger said:
I think it’s hard to find metric tyres with more than 85% ratio, so 205/100 isn’t likely to be an option. 205/85 is going to be a bit small a diameter for ground clearance, though the width would be good. 235/85 is a good size for Defenders, but may be little wide for an 88”, so I’d look at the 225/85s. But you’re probably better off trying to find some 7.50s, which are a standard size for the 88”. That will keep the steering light and will give the correct footprint for the best compromise of off road conditions. Those old Imperial sizes have square section profiles, ie their height is the same as the tread width, so they give the best height for the narrowest tyre.
many thanks that has helped alot
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1 hour ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
What are they going on? What will they be used for? And on what sort of terrain?
its going on a 88 inch ccv trials with defender 1 axels will be used only for trials the terrain could be any thing from rock to mud to forest
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ive now got to the stage of choosing tyres for the new build i have decided to go for insa turbo special trac as used them before and found them good but was wondering what size most of you trial lads or lasses run a few told me to go with 205 others say 225 or 235 80 16 so any feed back would be great thanks
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On 2/9/2021 at 9:34 PM, biffer4240 said:
no offence taken and yes ur right i should have tried to explain better what i was trying to ask was if this trialer im making had no wheel locks on it and lets just say normal wheels if i drove it round in a circle on full lock and then just put wheel spacers on the front changed nothing else and drove round again on full lock would it have a bigger or smaller turning circle but ive read ur and others replies and thank every one for there help and advice
On 2/11/2021 at 1:38 PM, tiddler said:I am sorry if I offended you Biffer but what I was trying to get over was that the answer isn't a simple yes/no. There are several other factors to take into account and you don't give us much information to go on.
25mm spacers probably will reduce the turning circle on a standard car if you wind the lock stops in as well. Fitting 100mm spacers may well increase the turning circle as the tyres start to describe an arc outside of the arches and could end up hitting the bodywork on full lock.
If you've got a bit more detail to give I'm sure someone on here can help you.
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On 2/8/2021 at 5:08 PM, Snagger said:
You ask if they affect turning circle, and when given the answer, you say you know. But then you say you have removed the stop locks. I think you need to leave the work to someone else, if you have removed the stop locks - you’re going to cause all sorts of damage and probably an accident without them.
7 hours ago, tiddler said:All of the following assumes we are discussing a non road-legal vehicle used for trials or purely off-highway use:
If you have already removed the lock stops, go outside and put the steering on full left lock - get someone to hold it there while you look under the car where your lock stops would have been on your driver's side end of the axle. If the front of the swivel housing is touching the flange of the swivel ball then you have achieved maximum lock.
Now go and have a look at the rearmost inner edge of the nearside tyre. Is that jammed up against or touching the raduis arm? if so, you have achieved too much lock and you need to either put your lock stops back in to stop it rubbing, or fit spacers/rims with greater offset to move the tyre out to stop this happening.
It is quite aesy to achieve the maximum lock with a landrover axle and spacers. You can go beyond this by cutting back the front and rear of the swivel housings and running the CV joints open if you are competitive enough, but all of this means you will go through CV joints like water.
I suggest you join an actual trails club (not a Facebook or Instagram one) and spend a couple of years getting to know your fellow members, sharing their knowledge and seeing what actually works and is or isn't necessary to get the best out of your vehicle.
Tiddler
On 2/8/2021 at 5:08 PM, Snagger said:You ask if they affect turning circle, and when given the answer, you say you know. But then you say you have removed the stop locks. I think you need to leave the work to someone else, if you have removed the stop locks - you’re going to cause all sorts of damage and probably an accident without them.
On 2/8/2021 at 5:08 PM, Snagger said:You ask if they affect turning circle, and when given the answer, you say you know. But then you say you have removed the stop locks. I think you need to leave the work to someone else, if you have removed the stop locks - you’re going to cause all sorts of damage and probably an accident without them.
firstly ive build 3 off roaders from scratch so i know to use spanners thankyou very much it was a simple question if widen a wheel track does it reduce the turning circle so no need to be insulting to question
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On 1/28/2021 at 11:36 AM, HoSS said:
Does anyone know the C&U regs or MOT for where and exhaust must be routed?
I'm looking for a different route and making up a custom exhaust.
e.g where it comes out on the body? how long the tubes can be after the final silencer....
as an ex mot inspector the area is very grey according to the book that we follow it say no louder than a similar type of vehicle has no leaks and is fixed properly to the vehicle and away from fuel and brake lines and it does not endanger public with fumes ect then there is not reason to fail it how ever just be aware if its was fitted with a cat that must be fitted a lot of the mot test is down to descretion of the tester hope this helps
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15 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Spacers give you more space to be able to adjust the lock stops for more lock.
yes i know that thanks but was just wondering if the wider u go with spacers does it decrease the turning circle as got the stops taken out thanks
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hi all just a quick question if wheel spacers are fitted to front axel does it alter the turning circle of the truck as need it my new build to be wide but also good lock on it ive adjusted the steering lock bolts but going for wider tyres and the hit hockey sticks many thanks guys
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8 hours ago, DaveSIIA said:
You run the risk of the shorter springs of the same rate becoming coil-bound on compression. Would it not be better to raise the spring hangers on the chassis if you want to retain the upper platform height?
yes that is one way but running with large bump stops so thort it would be easier to try and find new springs rather than welding the newly sprayed chassis
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once again need help with the new build the big question of springs i know alot of people use the blue and white range rover 133lb springs as the are very soft which is what i kneed how ever this is the problem i have on the rear it has slide plate extreme disconnecting pads welded onto the chassis spring locating brackets these plates give a 4 inch lift which im trying keep the centre of gravity as low as poss the standard rear blue and white springs are only 1 inch shorter that the fronts so the back will be 3 inches higher so i was wondering if any of u guys know of maybe a spring off another type of motor that could be used to try and drop the rear end
many thanks
andy
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On 12/27/2020 at 11:35 PM, ThreePointFive said:
An LSD will typically limit the difference in speed/torque between wheels, so turning both shafts rather than favouring the one with grip. The result would be the same when used with fiddles though.
Could it be worth dropping the LSD if you're after maximum agility, given they are prone to pushing on in right corners? You would then be able to brake a spinning wheel if traction is lost and transfer torque to the stationary one, like a manual form of ETC.
I am sure brake pads are cheaper than diff clutches etc.
thanks for you comment most helpful cheers andy
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thanks all for your comments i never gave it a thort that the lsd would fight against the fiddle brakes have to look at plan B now good job i had not ordered it
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5 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
I did this on my lightweight for modified trials, however I welded on additional caliper brackets as car still used for road duties. I used triumph acclaim master cylinders connected into vacuum pipe, you actually don't need as much braking force as you think as for pure off road the surface is invariably slippy, a word of warning though, these put a lot of strain on your diff etc, so I would also look at upgrading halfshafts etc, I had a lot of diff breakage until I fitted a salsbury back axle and then later a normal axle with ARB locker, if you look at modified trials vehicles most of them have a salsbury back axle hope this helps regards Stephen
thanks for that ive put an ashcroft lsd in so should be ok with that in
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hi all just need a bit of help as heard different answers i have a 90 defender with 1999 disco 1 axels on it i am splitting the brake system so the foot brake just does front wheels and i will be putting fiddle brakes on rear i have big bore fiddle chambers so i was looking to put maybe 110 front calipers on the rear as they are bigger pads and twin pistons to get better braking force has any one done this and is it a good upgrade by the way this is a total off road truck not been used on road thanks in advance for any help
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hi it has a discovery 1 300 tdi and auto box in it
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hi all i bought a 1988 90 pick up and turning it into a 80 inch ccv ive been told only to cut 7 inches out or rear prop wont work has anyone done one if so any help would be most welcome thanks in advance
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hi i have a 1988 defender with lift up handle and sliding windows im turning it into a ccv off roader and need wind down windows are all defenders door the same and would they fit into my 1988 model
many thanks for any help
andy
300tdi weld on engine mounts
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
thankyou this is just what im looking for really helps