swalker

https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=car+seat+repair+in+my+area+

the rear diff is problematic - the issue is an underspec'd bearing which has a poor oil feed. This along with having too much preload from the factory and the service interval on the oil being far too long = bearing failure. LR now supply a bigger bearing - you need to get someone that knows what they are doing and set the pre-load right so it wont fail again. info got from nodge on another forum, dont know if he is on here but he deserves the credit for his work and knowledge.

its a pitty scotty has recently moved on from texas... Pick up the phone and ask for prices of disks and pads - who is it scotty done a review on paddys - or some Irish name and autozone? or even go on line you can put your car into most sites to get the right parts. that will give you an idea of parts then as said its a couple of hours work -not sure what the rate is out there. if you like the LR2 join one of those clubs / get active on here and begin to understand the LR2 - you will get more out of it... good luck

OEM level diag tool - SDD

crash code i hear needs reset by the dealer... it also kicks in when the voltage drops too low. my advice would be to trickle charge over night - scan and clear try again.

yeah give it a wack to work - for me it was the left side of the fob off a wall!! but as pointed out there is an issue with these - the battery has tags that go through a PCB and get soldered in. One of these tags has been cut too short and therefore did not get enough solder. I was put off fixing mine as i seen the mess that some people made opening them. i got mine open by squeezing it in a vice, length ways each corner and side - just enough to distort the plastic and break the seal. I got the battery soldered up with plenty of good old 60/40 - tin/lead this fancy lead free stuff aint as good- still not approved for medical products, and glued back up with loctite 460, good as new!!! couple of other points to mote, the battery will only charge while driving and with the buttons face up. also my old fob was worn -buttons must have got swollen as it was getting caught in the dock.

oh dear start of a dodgy door lock? ours did this and it wouldn't even unlock from the inside. The only way we go it open was to start the car and then unlock it - it wouldn't even unlock from the inside. spare key or locksmith? if you go broken window route - ring around first and price which one is cheapest to break.. i have also heard of other cases where keys locked in can be sorted ( take this with a large pinch of salt, i never tried it nor sure if i want to) is to apply power to the ignition via the reverse switch on the gearbox, not even sure that will work on a landy? and then wack somewhere there is a crash sensor ( was the lower door hinge where i read it) then the doors will unlock as the car thinks its been in a bit of a crash. I do not recommend this at all - thinking airbags might go off, and i have read about a crash sensor in the FL2 being tripped and it will not start again until reset by the dealer!!

my A6 is the same - lack of use and when i do its wet out so carry in damp on shes etc. Classic car guys go for a sock filled with cat litter, I haven't tried it myself but loads go on about it so must do something.

we were looking ( briefly) to trade in our FL2 for an evoque, they are just too small, anyway when i pointed out there was no spare just the foam, the dealer said i could keep the spare from the FL2!! i think he picked up on the look I gave him and funnily i didnt trust anther word or vehicle from the dealer - he tried a disco sport after that - it was only 3 years old but was in worse condition than our 13 YO FL2 that has 3 times the miles - ahh no thanks... dealers get up to anything - not point any fingers but i wont be back to dundonald to visit a Premium dealership

the irony here is that my spare key fob that only worked with a knock, i stripped it, and I found the same dry joint. I recon these were pre cut too short and didnt get a good hold. I never fancied it before as i seen the mess made by opening them. however when thinking about it - I squeezed mine in a vice to break the seal and it came apart quite well. so i am all up and working again thanks . I ordered a new shell off amazon but it came clicked shut and i cant get it open and actually broke the key retaining tab in trying to do so. the main one is now tired and the idea was to swap it out but might just super glue this one back and be done.

... and now you have one that doesn't work 😐

the batteries are not replaceable in the FL2 - its a sealed unit which charges when driving. Ours died and i sent it off for a refurb - didn't have to do anything when it came back.

you can swap without a reprogram - but if the correction is too far out it will trip a fault, it needs to be way out but. All mine are wrong as i had the seals done and a couple needed swapped. when i checked it with my reader none of the codes matched up - the FL2 TD4 software runs the cylinder order back to front, ie #1 is where #4 is normally. You need JLR SDD software to reprogram them. let me know if you find the leak as one of mine is still doing this and i just haven't been bothered to sort it lol like you i dont think it is coming from the top as such

if its FL2 TD4 sounds like it could be the throttle body. does it stop with a click and a clunk? coming from center front?