Chris Hall

Thanks guys!

The manual for the injector pump has the words in the picture below about priming. The important part is that the stop control lever must be in the Run position (obviously) and the gas pedal must be right down (Diesel Turbo in the 90 / 110 has to be primed and started with the gas pedal up). The bleed screw you labelled A is on the governor and sometimes doesn't fill up until the engine has been running. I usually slacken all 4 high pressure pipes at the injectors.

I have 4.3 diffs from Rover P4s in my Series 2 SWB, with a Fairy Overdrive too, and that's using a 2.25 diesel! You get used to driving it as a 6 speed gearbox using overdrive on both third and top. I put the 4.3 diffs in when I had 4 long journeys to make on the road each week. I though it would improve fuel economy, but instead it's worse as I just went faster! Fish Hill, near Broadway, was a third gear no overdrive climb. The Fairey overdrive is quite noisy in a whiney sort of way.

I've just taxed my Series 2, the DVLA website knew that it was MOT exempt even though there was no MOT history as it ha been off the road since before computerised MOT certificates. I will say that I'm in the process of rebuilding it and will need to take it for paint at some point. The taxing it before it was finished was just an experiment, I assumed that as there was no history on their database I would have to get one more MOT done but the website asks for an owner declaration that the vehicle is safe. I will get a full inspection when it's finished - just to make sure I've put it back together right!

There is a gap, but it's only the thickness of the rubber seal. If I move the bulkhead much further forward there won't be any thread sticking out of the nuts! The bulkhead is too low really and the angle of the top doesn't match the doors. I can either move the mountings on the outriggers and put up with the windscreen not being in line with the bulkhead, or give up with this bulkhead and get a different one - that I've been able to inspect first. I'm not really trying for a concours restoration but I would like it to look as right as it did when I bought it 40 years ago. At least the 110 passed it's MOT today!

Hi, That's the way I tried to align things, although the bulkhead was loose fitted before the rear tub went back. I needed 5mm spacers between the outriggers and bulkhead, which is definitely too low if fitted normally, to get door gaps about right. The chassis is Richards.

Just to introduce myself. I've driven Land-Rovers since the 1970s and have owned several over the years. Current vehicles are a 1961 Series 2 Station Wagon which we bought in 1980 and is Ex BEA I believe, and a 110 Station Wagon which we bought new in 1990. Between times there has been a 109 Series 2 hard top, an Ex AA Series 1 88", a Series 3 Stage 1 V8 Station Wagon, and a mud 1970s Range Rover. I have usually done maintenance, repair and servicing myself and am rebuilding the original Series 2 at the moment. I am looking forward to sharing some of my past experiences, and hopefully learning new things too.

Hi! I'm new here, but not new to Land-Rovers. I am rebuilding my 1961 Series II 88 Station Wagon, which I've had since 1980, and have built up the vehicle on a new (probably Richards - can't be sure as the supplier hasn't confirmed who they actually got it from) galvanised chassis. We bought a new galvanised bulkhead from the same supplier, I do know the manufacturer of this but don't want to say whilst I'm in dispute with them. There have been many problems and I have not been able to get a satisfactory fit still. When on the vehicle, the tumble home line of the bulkhead is 10mm below that of the rear body, this is partly because the bolt holes in the chassis outriggers are 4mm lower than the originals. The hole for the steering column was at least 10mm too far to the left but the problem I can't solve is that the angle of the sloping part where the vent panels are is 3° too much. This makes the door tops - even a genuine new-old-stock one I've had for years - touch the bulkhead when the vertical shut lines are about right. Obviously the problem gets worse when the windscreen is fitted, and is exacerbated by the fact that the windscreen is 5mm too far back. So, here's the questions. I believe that the windscreen angle, measured from the old bulkhead should be 25° back from vertical, the new one is 28°. What should the angle be? The distance from the tumblehome to the centre line of the bolt through the outrigger is 584mm on the old bulkhead but 578mm on the new one. 6mm shorter. What should this measure? Is it usual to fit spacers between the chassis and the bulkhead to get the door shut lines wide enough for the doors to work? I've currently got 5mm spacers here but there were none on the original. I don't remember how it was 'as built' as I replaced the outriggers in 1981. The outriggers I fitted in 1981 have crush tubes welded through them for the bolts but the new chassis has square plates 9mm thick welded and no tube. What arrangement was originally used. If the chassis is basically right then the problems with the bulkhead are worse! I shall probably cut the reinforcement plated off the outriggers and weld them back higher up if they are wrong. I've pretty much lost patience with the bulkhead fitment and will either have to buy one from another company (Owen or Pegasus), or give up and sell the vehicle for parts! Any ideas? LR Series 2 Bulkhead Errors-Model.pdf

I bought Paint Man door bottoms to fit but will probably repair my original doors as there are problems with the pattern ones. They are not quite the right size, the hinge tubes are slightly wrong, but worse, the tubes that the door tops go into are too large in diameter, which makes the door top very loose and difficult to align. The door tops fit the old doors well even without the nuts on - which is convenient for summer use with canvas top on. I also bought SP galvanised door tops which seem to be an OK fit. They cancelled my order for the door bottoms with galvanised frames after I asked questions about the profile and shape compared to originals.

The DVLA website reports that it is red now, and the tax ran out on 1st December, MOT unknown - probably exempt. Last change of log book October 2014. The general lookup won't give owner details. At least it still exists!