Turnips

Apologies, I updated my build thread but not this one! I used a Speedisleeve for both flanges, and they worked fine - although the vehicle will not be finished for a while so time will tell if they will leak or not... I modified the tools which came supplied by grinding the end from one of them and tacking them both together.

I used to be a regular waxoyl user. I have come to the conclusion over the last ten years that unless you have the vehicle from an 'as new' condition, nothing is going to work that well. Like @FridgeFreezersays, you end up having to redo whatever it is that you are using. Waxoyl has the problems of creating a scab which still rusts underneath - meaning you have to scrape off the treatment from a year or two ago and reapply, although it looks great when freshly done! For something which is scabby underneath some kind of oil treatment before winter can hold it back but we all know it's a losing battle. I'll be using Dinitrol on the 109, but I wouldn't bother if whatever I was applying it to was already rusty.

It could well be this. My reckoning is still something to do with safety regulations - especially seeing as the vehicle is on German plates and they love a good rulebook! As an example, the MSA have the following rule on tow points: 19.1.3. There must be substantial towing eyes securely fixed to the main structure of the vehicle, front and rear, within the confines of the body to enable the vehicle to be moved. Cars of periods A to F and single seater racing cars are exempt from this requirement subject to a suitable towing point being clearly identified. Towing eyes must have a minimum internal diameter of 60mm. Towing eyes/towing points should be painted a contrasting bright colour (dayglo red, orange or yellow).

Would they not be painted to stand out so on a demo/photoshoot day, anyone unfamiliar with the vehicle can attach a tow without any excuse for ripping a bumper etc from the vehicle?

Am I reading that correctly? Five year & Unlimited mileage warranty for UK/EU/ME/ANZ? I would say that is a bold move for a vehicle they are hoping will be used extensively as a utility vehicle on and off road. I'm imagining lots of towing and abuse!

I had wondered about the fitting of the sleeve. I watched a YouTube video which showed an applicator like the one pictured above - but no mention of it coming with the sleeve. I presumed I would have to find something on the scrap pile to do the job, but your idea of modification makes sense too. Thanks for your help.

Thanks David. I think I am going to try it out, I’ll report back and update this thread.

I'm asking here instead of in the Series area because: a.) The question is primarily about a consumable, not a LR part b.) Not everyone peruses the Series area! I have two seal lands which are damaged, the flanges for the front and rear output shaft on my transfer box. Replacement parts run to around £260 (on top of £1k in gearbox parts, ouch), and I don't want to reuse them in their current state as I think they are going to leak and/or eat seals. I have never used Speedisleeves but I have read on here that they are a good solution to this type of problem. Can somebody with experience using them tell me if this would be the case here? Pictures of the damage below: I would rather spend some of the £260 savings on a decent set of digital verniers to measure the shaft diameter in order to get the right Speedisleeve.

At least you lot can go for a ride out in yours...

How strange, I guess these things can happen. Glad you got it sorted, and it’s a reminder to trust in your work when you know you fitted them correctly!

I have the 3/8 normal sized ratchet. I got it on a whim when I bought my fuel 1/2 impact gun and right angle die grinder. I didn't use it for ages and started to think it was a waste of money but as soon as you start picking it up instead of a normal ratchet you end up using it all the time! It's a bit like what we say about telehandlers on the farm here - before you had them you didn't think they were all that, now you have one you don't know how you managed without!

Did you sort this problem? Just browsing the forums and came across this unanswered query.

Knowing what I know now... no chance!

I'm back in the workshop today and cleaning up parts. I thought I would upload this picture while I eat my lunch. It seems that, just like Snagger's, my factory recon box has had it's serial number crudely removed. They kindly stamped the suffix (which I now know to be correct) underneath. This thread could have been avoided had I washed the top cover first! Anyhow, at least I know for definite what I have.

You are correct, mine has just a bronze bush inside the reverse idler gear. Hopefully I won’t discover any more big question marks as I strip the transfer box!