Happyoldgit

I moved it from the international into here and have merged your other thread with it too.

Duly merged

You need a manual - the procedure for correctly setting them up is in there.

The chassis has obviously been retro fitted with the rare air condition and super-fast yet very light weight water drainage options

Err umm - he said .Removing shims reduces clearance / play / tightens. Adding shims increases clearance / play / loosens.

As this isn't Defender specific I'm moving it to the International.

Since there are now two active threads concerning virtually the same subject I have decided to merge them together. Obviously there has been a lot of coverage of this issue in the past but if there is still more to say then, as long as we adhere to the facts, so be it.

You need to use a relay. Click here.

That paint deteriorates quickly so who knows what it's really like without looking in person. There's not really that much room in them either.

Back in the days of the old LRE forum there was a HUGE thread about their timing gears which all got terribly involved and somewhat protracted - so much so that we mods had to step in every now and again. That thread probably still exists - it, along with others, will provide all the answers. TBH we don't really want the hassle of dealing with the intricacies and possibly legal implications again so I do not think we need to backtrack along some very worn paths on here.

We seem to attract quite a few queries and requests for info regarding CB, amateur radio and other communications gear so I've started pulling and merging all the various threads together here.

^^Clearly you have never been brass rubbing David. A thin sheet of paper and wax crayon would be more effective.

Noises are notoriously difficult to diagnose without being able to hear or lay hands on the problem. Does the sound exists when the vehicle is stationary or just moving? Does it vary with engine speed? Does it vary with vehicle speed? Does the pitch vary?

Certainly has but even so it is news to some and therefore the thread IS serving a useful purpose.

My Puma 110 CSW XS is entered as 3050kgs.

I've tidied this thread up as some of the comments were too personal. What one individual likes will sometimes not be to everyone's taste. That's fine but we need to express our views in such a way that they do not cause offence. Remember - opinions are like belly buttons* - everyone has one. *Clean version

This borders on fabrication so I'm moving it there ..if that appears wrong to some, well, shrugs

Moved to the Defender forum.

I already said that

If you have a browse around there is much info on rust prevention and Waxoyling here already. Briefly access to the top of the bulkhead / A pillar can be gained by removing door hinge screws one at a time which will give access to a fine lance sprayer. You can also get in by removing the rubber grommets on the outside below the screen. The lower A pillars can be done by similarly removing door screws and if you look underneath the vehicle you should find you can also get access via the drain hole in the bottom of the pillar too. ...but like I say all this info is on the already on the forum.

As it's not Defender specific I'll move this to the International.

Ok, I'm closing this. Anyone who wants to sign can do but we don't need a list of names here.

Master cylinder's are not prohibitively expensive so I'd change it first.

Cleaned the discs?

Ok, as this is not really a technical Defender only type thread I'm moving it into the wondrous International forum where it might gain input from a variety of members.