Phill S

Good grief it actually worked... I used the video I flagged previously together with the cable stuff from here: https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge Plugged it all in, fired up Rovergauge, pressed connect button and got this: The fun stopped there because I have the exhaust manifolds off again, stopping up the leaks. I was able to see it responding to the throttle pedal and also able to wind the idle air control in and out But I'm sure there will be more questions once the engine is running again...

Now if I weren't a cheapskate I might just go for one of those... Brilliant. I've just been installing a swanky new ATOTO S8 head unit, so the option of having Rovergauge as a built-in on-board diagnostic tool just has to happen... Thanks for flagging that up!

Weeeell - this is what's on its way to me. Claims to be the genuine chip thingy: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186037739519 Fingers crossed In the meantime I've been reading this, http://www.g33.co.uk/pages/technical_fuel_injection.html and for those getting to grips with all this check out the dropbox link there. Which leads me to this: RoverGauge quick ref sheet.doc Nice

Ok - thanks. I found the exact same thing on ebay for £15 all in, so I'll go for that. Had some time this afternoon and now have the Rovergauge software running, along with the Putty thing, and also FT_Prog. The last two have links on the github page and easy enough to find from there. I also found this vid useful: Think that's going to be useful when the cable turns up. I think the mists are clearing. Surely it can't be this easy...

Probably a couple of weeks away from MoT now. My transplanted 3.9 makes the right noises and I'm going to be backing out of the shed and chugging up and down the farms tracks before very long to make sure nothing is falling off or catching fire. It's taken me twice as long to get to this point as I thought it would, but light is appearing at the end of the tunnel. Question arises though as to what is going on in that black box, and is everything working correctly. I've trawled through lots of stuff and perhaps not surprisingly find I need to get to grips with Rovergauge. Nothing I can find on the forum at Dummies level, but please holler if there's anything I've missed. The most relevant reference I can find is: https://colinbourassa.github.io/car_stuff/14cux/ This is a brilliant resource written by the guy who put Rovergauge together. There's even the occasional word I can understand. So my first step is to get myself an interface cable. To quote directly, he says: You'll need to get a 5-volt FTDI USB-to-serial converter cable. Either the TTL-232R-5V-WE or the TTL-232R-5V works fine. (If you don't get the wire-ended ("-WE") cable, you'll need to cut the header connector off the end before attaching your own connector.) There are also other manufacturers that build cables using FTDI chips; I've successfully tested the similar GearMo cable. When using one of these cables, the software will set the correct baud rate automatically. Now. Not really understanding much of what I'm reading on the hardware/software side of things, I'm guessing my quickest route to something that works with the minimum of hassle will be the GearMo option? The link above takes me to US Amazon, but what I believe is the same thing is here: https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/FTDI/TTL-232R-5V?qs=OMDV80DKjRorBEBwmlJ4Pg%3D%3D I'll get on and get that ordered this evening. And take a look at installing the software on my PC. There will be more questions but hopefully some kind soul will be able to tell me I'm on the right track. However, I have it on good authority that:

That doesn't sound too bad, but surprised at wear on the rings already. As I'm sure are you! No wish to try to teach to suck eggs, but make sure the main shaft is thoroughly cleaned out and if not done already it's worth replacing the pump as a matter of routine, or at least checking the insides...

Sounds like the 3rd/4th synchro has failed? I'd be suspecting one of the springs has broken or become dislodged which will allow the pins to fall out. I'd suggest not driving anywhere - you don't want broken teeth... Here's my prime suspect:

Well, I've used brass nuts on other vehicles before, but not the RV8... That sounds like a promising combination. Might try those with the standard tin gaskets and without the goo first...

It's been a while. So I'm going with what I've got on the exhaust for the time being, but a couple of questions. For obvious reasons I've used brass nuts on the manifold to downpipe joints - new gaskets of course. Getting some chuffing from the joints as the thing warms up - anybody able to suggest a max torque setting for the nuts? Not sure what they'll take and wimped out of tightening up too much. I have a pool of water dripping from the downpipes to exhaust joint. New system, Britparts finest and a new ring. I see the workshop manual says to use a sealant - any recommendations on what product to use on that? Not something I've used this century...

Ok! And it sounds like I should add air conditioned trousers to the jobs list too...

That's great, thanks. We hit mid 30's in southern Italy in my old L200 last autumn, the aircon was doing a good job, but madam says I needn't think she's doing anything like that in Old Stinky without aircon. So it sounds like using the Disco 1 system should be up to the job. Thanks again

Question asked because I'm looking to fit aircon to my 1987 110. I dismantled a 1997 Disco 1 3.9 insurance write-off a short while ago and have all the bits, and am looking at what it would take to repackage the HVAC unit to fit the 110. I've had it apart and it all looks doable, but before going any further it would seem sensible to ask how good the starting point is. It'll be something of a background job, but aiming to have a working system by the end of August ready for a long distance trip to hot places... Anybody able to give a rating on it? Has it been done before? Any thoughts welcome

Looked in all my usual places but can't find a part number for these. Mine are shot: Grateful for any help! Phill

Finally managed to get this sorted out over the weekend. Armed with the information that the weird symbol on my every expense spared multimeter (like the symbol on the one in the video pic above) means diode test, I checked out the 6 contacts and they all did what they were supposed to do. The vehicle was previously 24v, now re-wired for 12v and had 2 batteries which individually aren't man enough to start the engine, and to date I've been using a bigger battery which is on it's last legs, but perfectly capable of starting the engine when fully charged. I had wondered if the alternator might be unhappy charging a dodgy battery, but having said that it was charging ok and the Disco 1 rev counter was working as described in my opening account of the problem. Anyhow, being basically a tight wad I decide to connect up the two small batteries in parallel as a get me going until the super duper split charge system gets put in. And so I can get an MoT. This meant going for a different chassis earth point as a result of the odds and ends of cables I had to hand. Like you do. Ok, so now let's put it all back together and see if anything has changed. like maybe it'll work now. And it did. Everything working fine, battery light gone out and rev counter working. Cheapo voltage indicator showing the right sort of things happening - 14.2v. Now, I'm pretty sure the earth was fine before the battery config change, and the jump lead to back of the engine would/should have sorted that if so (excellent tip!). So am I just rationalising in thinking it must have been the alternator brushes? Alternator sits on the shelf for two years, works for a short time and then doesn't. I guess it would only take one of the brushes to have been stuck...

Ok - thanks. Would never have thought to look there...