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Phill S

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Everything posted by Phill S

  1. Hi guys. Checked all the copper coloured ones when I opened the packs and they're all non-magnetic. Of course, I'm going to have to check again now... The head gasket set is from Payen, and dangerously I had assumed all components would be "right". This morning I was reading White90's account of how to change the head gasket on my type of engine: He shows the correct washers for the injectors and I see I have that wrong, so back to the drawing board on those - that guy seems to know what he's talking about and has made some excellent contributions elsewhere. If I look on the Dingocroft website and search for "injectors fitting kit" for Defender, I find tghe description mentions "steel crush washers" that look as if they just might be like the ones described in the workshop manual. All of my non copper coloured washers are flat - do Payen give you the wrong ones? Understanding a little more now of what they are supposed to look like, I wouldn't be surprised if those ones are still nestling in the cylinder head. I'll have a poke around next time I'm down at the workshop. The gasket set for the block is from Bearmach. I swore I'd never buy any of their stuff ever again a few years ago when I had an RV8 coolant drain tap fall apart in my hands, but I assumed the gaskets and washers should be ok. I've used OEM seals on the front shafts and original Land Rover for the rear crank seal. So - having mis-identified the injector washers, I think I'm going to have to start my process of elimination from the beginning again and re-issue the spot-the-washer challenge. Watch this space...
  2. Just finalising the re-assembly of my 1987 18J 2.5 diesel N/A engine and sorting out which washer goes where. Just to increase the fun, I've managed to mix the ones from the engine gasket set with the head gasket ones to form one big puzzle. Being as how most of them are quite cunningly shaped it's probably important which ones go where. Spent most of the afternoon trying to cross reference workshop manual, parts book and what came off of the vehicle - don't feel I got very far! I believe I've got the aluminium ones sorted, all except the two shown, but then there's a sea of copper ones: I believe the top row first two columns of 4 are the ones that go between the injectors, that the 3rd column of 4 is for the block to head oil pipe, but I'm having difficulty with the rest. And I might have those wrong anyway. Dunno what those two aluminium ones are. One of those singletons in the second row has to be for the sump plug, but that's not accessible because I have the engine supported on wooden blocks at the moment so that the sump doesn't shift, so not been able to pin that one down. And just to clarify, this is the entire complement of copper washers from both block and head gasket sets. Anybody bored enough to have a shot at it?
  3. Hi Dan - this is probably the best pic I have of the layout of the engine belts, I'd be interested to know if yours is the same? From what I have, the alternator belt has no markings, The other two are shown here if that's any help I'll be interested to know how you gwt on Phill
  4. Hi Dan, from the picture you posted your vehicle looks exactly like mine. Don't know if it helps any, but you'll find my pics of the engine bay strip down here: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=207497944224931&id=169579534683439 Assuming same as mine you may be able to get a better view of what you're looking for? Phill
  5. Hey - I do appreciate you flagging that up - hadn't realised there was a for sale section on the forum! However, having totted up costs of getting it from Derby to Penzance, plus an overhaul kit etc, I'm going to stick to plan A and modify the unit I've got. It's only done 3,500 miles, and apart from that I've already started dismantling it. Thanks though Phill
  6. Yeah I know. I've driven vehicles before now with crash gearbox on all 4 gears, that's not really a problem. Loss of momentum is certainly the thing, and I guess that all comes down to skill and judgement. Yeah I know, but it's what I've got and with only 3,500 miles on the clock it's going to be what I'm working with for the next little while. I'm not really expecting unduly heavy loads ever, but there are fundamental laws of nature that will catch a person out at some point.
  7. Thanks guys for the collective wisdom. I'm probably worrying unnecessarily about the potential downsides of upping the LT230 gearing to 1.4 on my 110, but remember I only have 39BHP at 1,800 RPM - hence the concerns. So if I need hill start capability at heavy load, I can be pretty certain I'll be able to use the low ratios and not be burning up the clutch unnecessarily. Thanks all Phill
  8. Planning to up the LT230 gearing from 1.667 to 1.41 on my 1987 110 NA 2.5 diesel - currently in bits. One concern is losing hill start capability at higher loadings, and thinking about how the low ratio could be used to help out in this case. So the simple question is, how easy is it to change from low to high ratio while moving? I don't want to end up with a compromised vehicle. The best written information I've been able to find on this is from the Army Equipment Support Operation Information manual, Chapter 3 (can't locate where I found this document now!): 5.1.4 Changes from low "L" to high "H" can easily be made without stopping the vehicle as follows: Depress the clutch pedal and release the accelerator pedal as for normal gear change Release the clutch pedal for three seconds then depress the clutch again and move the transfer lever firmly into the high "H" position Move the main gear lever to second gear and release the clutch pedal while depressing the accelerator to take up the drive smoothly As the vehicle accelerates, change gear in the main gearbox in the normal way Note ... This operation can be carried out smoothly and quickly after a little practice I think what is being described here is a garbled account of how to double declutch? And I assume the supposed starting point of the sequence described is low ratio second gear? My specific interest is in how this works out in practice. Can the ratio change actually be carried out smoothly and quickly or is it a bit of a dogs breakfast? Anybody out there who actually uses this?
  9. Ok! Incidentally,. should anybody wish to know, there's a handy calculator here that will take you between torque and HP: https://spicerparts.com/calculators/horsepower-torque-calculator Seems to give the right answers on my checks. Then at least you can get two points on a graph. My gutsy 18J will then put out a magnificent 39.1BHP at 1,800 RPM Oh dear...
  10. Hi Simon - thanks for the offer, but not really what I'm looking for. I'm sure somebody will want it though, maybe a for sale ad on here would be worthwhile? Course I do! I like cake. Maybe I was being a little flippant with: I guess I was just meaning the most pragmatic solution. Simplest is usually best. So: Is exactly what I was looking for. As before, my knowledge of alternators is limited to simple replacement of existing models. So yes, the old military type connector has to go, and that's simple enough. As long as I can find an acceptable pulley and mounting it should be simple enough as you say. Just a matter of identifying an alternator that allows it all to happen with the minimum of fuss. What specific unit did you use? Putting this together with: and: also I now have a good sense of direction. I'm on the case. In other news, I've just bought a dead 19J engine which will hopefully yield up all the standard bracketry, and show me how to mount the power steering pump and brake servo air pump in their "standard" locations on my 18J motor. Won't be able to pick that up for a few weeks yet though, so will hold off buying anything until I've got that as a reference model. Many thanks all for all the contributions Next dumb question coming soon - we're getting through them....
  11. 1.31 it is then! I'll report back on how it goes...
  12. Thanks for your insights - that's really useful and just what I was looking for! So my conclusion is that with what I believe to be a very good engine (3,500 miles, 1,100 running hours, looking good inside), and a low ratio gearbox, my best option is going to be the Ashcroft 1.3 ratio LT230 gear set. If I compare what I would get in terms of the MPH and RPM that the Ashcroft ratio calculator spits out, then for my vehicle I get the following engine RPM: Ratio 1.41 1.31 10MPH in 1st 2,158 1,991 <- a standard 90 2.5NA diesel would be 1,941 60MPH in 5th 2,700 2,491 Yeah, I'd only get 60MPH downhill with a following wind and I'll need to change down slightly earlier on hills, but the aim of the 1.31 ratio set would be to be a little kinder to the engine in RPM terms, and reduce the decibels. Hill start capability much the same as a stock 90 (with two 9 stone people in the back). And as Sigi says above we also have the low ratios for more challenging hill starts. Also, If I decide to go for a more powerful engine at some point, the transmission can (probably?) remain unchanged. Think that's the way I'm going... ...until further notice. Don't think I'd be contemplating this if it weren't for Mike's videos! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRssffMP_F8_SCJcqFLq4Ow
  13. Yup - been using that, although it told me my 50A box had different ratios than the Mil-spec that it actually has. I'm as certain as I can be that I'm the first person inside there. Lost a little confidence in it after that, but then maybe my box is some kind of "special"? As Junglie has said above, great to hear your experiences. Another good reason to replace the massive 24v alternator I've currently got then. But no Radio 4? Just before I start ordering up the Ashcroft 1.4 gears, what did you think of my logic in the opening blurb about ending up with the driving characteristic of a 90 with two 9 stone people in the back? The machinery can only do what the machinery can do, but with the Mil-spec LT77 and the LT230 1.3 ratio gears, first gear upper ratio comes out pretty much identical to the 2.5NA 90. What sort of a monster would that create I wonder... Gotta ask
  14. ...here's the guy I want to move away from: Mug to give a general perspective. A couple more: Had a scrub at the plate there, but it wasn't giving away any secrets. No idea what sort of output it gives
  15. 24,000 options for you to consider And there's the problem in a nutshell! Which one of those bad boys is going to just slot in where the 12v alternator would sit, using the same brackets and all? Am following up the suggestions made so far, and.....
  16. Hi Simon - started writing it out but it started looking like the Merlin ship recovery flight test programme. I'll carry on with with my estimation methods Thanks anyway He's hoping for something good to be dropped in there
  17. Hi Simon - I suppose what I'm looking for is the same sizeish as the regular 12v job that will sit in the same place as on a standard 19j engine. Never having seen one of those I don't really know how big it is. I'll measure up the one I want to replace tomorrow and get back to you; Thanks for the offer
  18. Hi Simon - is your vehicle running or have you started taking it to bits already? Have some questions for you if it's still running. You might want to fib. So a couple of items update. Apparently the 0.77 ratio can't be put into the suffix E LT77 and earlier boxes. Also my tooth count shows my LT77 gear ratios are way lower than I was expecting. My first gear ratio comes out at 3.985. That's 4 to you and me. To eliminate any other surprises I checked the LT230. That's still in one piece but I was able to eyeball it at 1.6. Similarly the front axle (still on the vehicle) comes out at 3.5 - everything as expected there at least. So it's spreadsheet time to work out the next steps....
  19. Hey - thanks all! This is just the sort of advice and experience I was hoping for. I'll probly stick with 24v for the foreseeable then. Probably straightforward to split off 12v for a regular radio and other bits and pieces. Assuming soundproofing of course.... Anyway, will update on how it works out
  20. Yeah - liquid nitrogen would be fun. You wouldn't need to bother to heat the ring! My freezer shelves didn't look strong enough. The flywheel is pretty heavy
  21. Well, I went to my local guy that specialises in Defender and Series models. He started talking oxy and he didn't do that, didn't know who would etc. Watched guys on YouTube doing just as you describe - including flip it over and use the other side. Went away and read the manual and found the numbers, and there it is. It works fine. Don't know what happens if you get it wrong, but I found it just dropped on and into place
  22. Yup - only the one massive alternator. Feed goes to both batteries in series under the LHS seat. No radio gear remaining in the vehicle. Even the windscreen washer bottle has 24v stamped on it...
  23. Thanks guys, but I think I may have set you off on the wrong tack - and I've also shown I know nothing about winches! The vehicle is rigged for 24v which I'm happy to stick with, for the time being at least. I'll rewire for 12v one day. So it's not that I want a winch, I just thought that group of folks might have the 24v need. All I need is a 24v alternator to power the basic vehicle kit and will sit in the standard location. I'm not an auto electrics guy, so thanks Bowie69 for the advice that any decent electric place should be able to sort me out. I guess I just was thinking there might be a consensus view that, for example, a Lucas XYZ unit would be just what I need and would just bolt on to the standard bracket. Sounds like there's any number of units to choose from?
  24. Next on my list of dumb questions comes alternators. My vehicle is a 24v 1987 110 with an 18J diesel, the NA variant of the 19J. It is ex-military and came with a massive alternator on the right hand shoulder where, as I understand it, an aircon pump would/could normally live: I'm guessing I'm not the first to want to do this, and that there will be a preferred much smaller unit that will meet my more modest needs that would sit in the normal position where I've jammed the kitchen roll? The guys with winches are perhaps most likely to know about this? Any advice and experience welcome
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