Jump to content

Phill S

Settled In
  • Posts

    316
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Phill S

  1. Well, I've used brass nuts on other vehicles before, but not the RV8... That sounds like a promising combination. Might try those with the standard tin gaskets and without the goo first...
  2. It's been a while. So I'm going with what I've got on the exhaust for the time being, but a couple of questions. For obvious reasons I've used brass nuts on the manifold to downpipe joints - new gaskets of course. Getting some chuffing from the joints as the thing warms up - anybody able to suggest a max torque setting for the nuts? Not sure what they'll take and wimped out of tightening up too much. I have a pool of water dripping from the downpipes to exhaust joint. New system, Britparts finest and a new ring. I see the workshop manual says to use a sealant - any recommendations on what product to use on that? Not something I've used this century...
  3. Ok! And it sounds like I should add air conditioned trousers to the jobs list too...
  4. That's great, thanks. We hit mid 30's in southern Italy in my old L200 last autumn, the aircon was doing a good job, but madam says I needn't think she's doing anything like that in Old Stinky without aircon. So it sounds like using the Disco 1 system should be up to the job. Thanks again
  5. Question asked because I'm looking to fit aircon to my 1987 110. I dismantled a 1997 Disco 1 3.9 insurance write-off a short while ago and have all the bits, and am looking at what it would take to repackage the HVAC unit to fit the 110. I've had it apart and it all looks doable, but before going any further it would seem sensible to ask how good the starting point is. It'll be something of a background job, but aiming to have a working system by the end of August ready for a long distance trip to hot places... Anybody able to give a rating on it? Has it been done before? Any thoughts welcome
  6. Looked in all my usual places but can't find a part number for these. Mine are shot: Grateful for any help! Phill
  7. Finally managed to get this sorted out over the weekend. Armed with the information that the weird symbol on my every expense spared multimeter (like the symbol on the one in the video pic above) means diode test, I checked out the 6 contacts and they all did what they were supposed to do. The vehicle was previously 24v, now re-wired for 12v and had 2 batteries which individually aren't man enough to start the engine, and to date I've been using a bigger battery which is on it's last legs, but perfectly capable of starting the engine when fully charged. I had wondered if the alternator might be unhappy charging a dodgy battery, but having said that it was charging ok and the Disco 1 rev counter was working as described in my opening account of the problem. Anyhow, being basically a tight wad I decide to connect up the two small batteries in parallel as a get me going until the super duper split charge system gets put in. And so I can get an MoT. This meant going for a different chassis earth point as a result of the odds and ends of cables I had to hand. Like you do. Ok, so now let's put it all back together and see if anything has changed. like maybe it'll work now. And it did. Everything working fine, battery light gone out and rev counter working. Cheapo voltage indicator showing the right sort of things happening - 14.2v. Now, I'm pretty sure the earth was fine before the battery config change, and the jump lead to back of the engine would/should have sorted that if so (excellent tip!). So am I just rationalising in thinking it must have been the alternator brushes? Alternator sits on the shelf for two years, works for a short time and then doesn't. I guess it would only take one of the brushes to have been stuck...
  8. Ahaaa - ok - I think. Got some more digging to do on this. Back with progress updates in a couple of days...
  9. Ok - this video is at about my level. A different alternator to what we have, but I assume the principles are the same. You can skip along until 11:05 where the off-car tests start. I got 2.8 Ohms at the slip rings - the uppermost brush pushed back and the tip of a cable tie pushed in to break the circuit. It was all over the place before that. I'm not cleat what he's doing after that though.... I don't understand what the 421 is? Anybody?
  10. Jump lead from -ve battery to back of the engine block made no difference so out with the alternator. A label underneath says it's an LRB00283. For future guy having the same problem here's the connectors at the rear: And removing the black plastic cover: reveals the brushes. I can't detect any tendency to stick - all free moving and slide nicely. Is it time to call the menders?
  11. Morning guys - thanks for the input. Thanks for that - they'll be going on my people to know about list. Will see if I can fix myself and then check them out if that doesn't work out. I forgot to mention I'm an alternator dummy. Now this sounds promising. I'll do the earth checks and if no joy get it out to check the brushes. There will be more questions in that case. I was a little shocked to find that it's actually 2 years since the alternator did any work - it's been sitting on the shelf all that time, so if sticky brushes are a thing that could be the prime suspect? That's right - that's why I'd assumed I'd somehow killed it... HIF44's?! Old friends of mine. But I thought you were a 14CUX guy! More questions on that front when I'm past a few other irritants. Like alternators. Remind me to ask you how you did your aircon sometime. Back at the workshop tomorrow, will update after that.....
  12. Been making some headway recently with my V8 transplant into my 1987 110. Not fully sorted yet, but this is how it's looking so far: Ran the engine up yesterday for the first time in a little while, mostly all good but a number of things to get sorted - firstly a dead alternator. No readable markings except the re-manufactured label. When first fired up this time, I had a working rev counter and the battery light extinguished. I'm using a Discovery 1 wiring loom and instrument panel like so: So, on first starting it all looked good - great excitement - RPM settled to a reasonable tickover. Out and checking for fuel spraying about, flames, coolant leaks etc. Back inside a couple of minutes later to do the power steering thing and ensure hydraulics circulating. Imagine my disappointment to find no RPM working and the battery light on... I think it's an AMR4247 - the original VIN was VA738xxx, a 1997 Discovery 1. Here's the connections at the rear: I've used the Disco fuse boxes, the alternator goes first to the engine bay unit, then over the penguin to the bulkhead +ve terminal like so: Today I've been through all of the circuitry for continuity checks and everything is fine. Why would it do this to me?
  13. Aah - maybe I made a problem for myself because I used non-standard brackets?
  14. Well that took longer than it was supposed to. Long story... Here's a walk through of what I did so's you can tell me how I should have done it. First off, olive CRC4579L in place and nuts finger tight. Downpipes supported at the rear in the guesstimated correct position: Here's the centre section strapped up into place with the gasket between the mid and rear sections and tightened up: And the rear end sitting about right: I had to make up a length of box section to get hanger ESR3294 to sit correctly: Which bolts up like so: Yeah, some work still to do on that... With the front and rear points now fixed, attention turns to the front of the mid section. I chopped all the hangers off of the donor Disco exhaust, and made this: Cute ain't it? Problem being that I couldn't get a decent measurement to get it to hang correctly. This way I could wind the contraption up and down until it felt right. It looks much worse in this pic than in real life: That's my story and I'm sticking to it. I had to wrench the YRM 300 TdI middle hanger (designated 016B) around through about 90 deg to get it to sit about right. And just to show the lower end: OK, beautiful it's not, but it'll give me a pattern to work from next time around when I'm fitting a proper exhaust system and I'll rework the hanger at that point. Probably... That leaves the middle hanger. I made this: 3mm steel plate with one of the original Disco 1 hangers welded on. Yeah, I know. But it's not going to fall off. That was much easier to measure up, and fits like so: I bolted it on using the self-levelling unit fixings. Happy with that one. So I have a set of hangers that should do the job for the foreseeable, and means that when I come to fit a stainless system I should be able to go out and buy a standard TD5 one and it'll just go on without having to think about it. Well - maybe. On to the next outstanding problem...
  15. Hi Paul - pretty sure I still have all those bits from the original donor Disco somewhere, but thanks for the offer. Reality suggests that (assuming I can get this thing through MoT soon....) I'll run it without cowling through the winter, and then work out my electric fan installation for next time the bodywork is all coming apart again...
  16. Sorry - late to the party. My own foray into mounting brackets is here, which may be of some use...
  17. Finally back on project! A massive amount of time spent reconfiguring a Disco 1 wiring loom for my '87 110, life events, and a requirement to go on holiday. Sadly, the 110 not yet ready for action, so 6 weeks in the old L200. Along the way I bought a little something in Turin: "What's in the box Phill?" I hear you cry. A new old stock brass NTC6168 that's what... Weighs a ton compared with the Britpart plastic one. So it looks the part, but anybody able to shed any light on who the manufacturer might be? Came in a plain brown box. The only identification is a fairly primitive stamping on the top surface: Anybody able to shed any light? I assume it was manufactured in June 2007?
  18. Hi Gabz - don't know if any interest, but I recently removed the 2.5 NA from my 1987 truck, I'm going V8. Ex-Singapore army. Only 3,500ish miles, it's not a big country. Fully fitted with all the pulleys, belts, pump and bracket, overhauled injectors, all engine oil seals replaced etc etc. Mounting points for aircon pump. Ideal for spare parts or transplant. PM me if any interest, I have loads of pics. You would also need the pipes and reservoir, I no longer have those, and the steering box, although there seem to be a fair few second hand ones around. Best pic I can find on a quick look below.... Phill
  19. Well the last few weeks have seen me wrestling with the re-wiring. Original vehicle was 24v, but I wanted to go 12v. Fitting the wiring loom from the donor Disco 1 seemed like a good idea, and I want the aircon and cruise control, and anti-theft, and leccie doros and a decent fuse system, and and and.... You get to a certain point where there's no going back because of all the work you put into it already..... Would I do the Disco wiring again? Yes, but in a fraction of the time having worked out how to arrange it. Back to the wiring diagrams...
  20. Erm - how are you going to get into the battery box? I'm hoping you have a solution I can use!
  21. Ok - interesting. Any idea which of their models you used?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy