Phill S

Good grief it actually worked... I used the video I flagged previously together with the cable stuff from here: https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge Plugged it all in, fired up Rovergauge, pressed connect button and got this: The fun stopped there because I have the exhaust manifolds off again, stopping up the leaks. I was able to see it responding to the throttle pedal and also able to wind the idle air control in and out But I'm sure there will be more questions once the engine is running again...

Now if I weren't a cheapskate I might just go for one of those... Brilliant. I've just been installing a swanky new ATOTO S8 head unit, so the option of having Rovergauge as a built-in on-board diagnostic tool just has to happen... Thanks for flagging that up!

Weeeell - this is what's on its way to me. Claims to be the genuine chip thingy: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186037739519 Fingers crossed In the meantime I've been reading this, http://www.g33.co.uk/pages/technical_fuel_injection.html and for those getting to grips with all this check out the dropbox link there. Which leads me to this: RoverGauge quick ref sheet.doc Nice

Ok - thanks. I found the exact same thing on ebay for £15 all in, so I'll go for that. Had some time this afternoon and now have the Rovergauge software running, along with the Putty thing, and also FT_Prog. The last two have links on the github page and easy enough to find from there. I also found this vid useful: Think that's going to be useful when the cable turns up. I think the mists are clearing. Surely it can't be this easy...

Probably a couple of weeks away from MoT now. My transplanted 3.9 makes the right noises and I'm going to be backing out of the shed and chugging up and down the farms tracks before very long to make sure nothing is falling off or catching fire. It's taken me twice as long to get to this point as I thought it would, but light is appearing at the end of the tunnel. Question arises though as to what is going on in that black box, and is everything working correctly. I've trawled through lots of stuff and perhaps not surprisingly find I need to get to grips with Rovergauge. Nothing I can find on the forum at Dummies level, but please holler if there's anything I've missed. The most relevant reference I can find is: https://colinbourassa.github.io/car_stuff/14cux/ This is a brilliant resource written by the guy who put Rovergauge together. There's even the occasional word I can understand. So my first step is to get myself an interface cable. To quote directly, he says: You'll need to get a 5-volt FTDI USB-to-serial converter cable. Either the TTL-232R-5V-WE or the TTL-232R-5V works fine. (If you don't get the wire-ended ("-WE") cable, you'll need to cut the header connector off the end before attaching your own connector.) There are also other manufacturers that build cables using FTDI chips; I've successfully tested the similar GearMo cable. When using one of these cables, the software will set the correct baud rate automatically. Now. Not really understanding much of what I'm reading on the hardware/software side of things, I'm guessing my quickest route to something that works with the minimum of hassle will be the GearMo option? The link above takes me to US Amazon, but what I believe is the same thing is here: https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/FTDI/TTL-232R-5V?qs=OMDV80DKjRorBEBwmlJ4Pg%3D%3D I'll get on and get that ordered this evening. And take a look at installing the software on my PC. There will be more questions but hopefully some kind soul will be able to tell me I'm on the right track. However, I have it on good authority that:

That doesn't sound too bad, but surprised at wear on the rings already. As I'm sure are you! No wish to try to teach to suck eggs, but make sure the main shaft is thoroughly cleaned out and if not done already it's worth replacing the pump as a matter of routine, or at least checking the insides...

Sounds like the 3rd/4th synchro has failed? I'd be suspecting one of the springs has broken or become dislodged which will allow the pins to fall out. I'd suggest not driving anywhere - you don't want broken teeth... Here's my prime suspect:

Well, I've used brass nuts on other vehicles before, but not the RV8... That sounds like a promising combination. Might try those with the standard tin gaskets and without the goo first...

It's been a while. So I'm going with what I've got on the exhaust for the time being, but a couple of questions. For obvious reasons I've used brass nuts on the manifold to downpipe joints - new gaskets of course. Getting some chuffing from the joints as the thing warms up - anybody able to suggest a max torque setting for the nuts? Not sure what they'll take and wimped out of tightening up too much. I have a pool of water dripping from the downpipes to exhaust joint. New system, Britparts finest and a new ring. I see the workshop manual says to use a sealant - any recommendations on what product to use on that? Not something I've used this century...

Ok! And it sounds like I should add air conditioned trousers to the jobs list too...

That's great, thanks. We hit mid 30's in southern Italy in my old L200 last autumn, the aircon was doing a good job, but madam says I needn't think she's doing anything like that in Old Stinky without aircon. So it sounds like using the Disco 1 system should be up to the job. Thanks again

Question asked because I'm looking to fit aircon to my 1987 110. I dismantled a 1997 Disco 1 3.9 insurance write-off a short while ago and have all the bits, and am looking at what it would take to repackage the HVAC unit to fit the 110. I've had it apart and it all looks doable, but before going any further it would seem sensible to ask how good the starting point is. It'll be something of a background job, but aiming to have a working system by the end of August ready for a long distance trip to hot places... Anybody able to give a rating on it? Has it been done before? Any thoughts welcome

Looked in all my usual places but can't find a part number for these. Mine are shot: Grateful for any help! Phill

Finally managed to get this sorted out over the weekend. Armed with the information that the weird symbol on my every expense spared multimeter (like the symbol on the one in the video pic above) means diode test, I checked out the 6 contacts and they all did what they were supposed to do. The vehicle was previously 24v, now re-wired for 12v and had 2 batteries which individually aren't man enough to start the engine, and to date I've been using a bigger battery which is on it's last legs, but perfectly capable of starting the engine when fully charged. I had wondered if the alternator might be unhappy charging a dodgy battery, but having said that it was charging ok and the Disco 1 rev counter was working as described in my opening account of the problem. Anyhow, being basically a tight wad I decide to connect up the two small batteries in parallel as a get me going until the super duper split charge system gets put in. And so I can get an MoT. This meant going for a different chassis earth point as a result of the odds and ends of cables I had to hand. Like you do. Ok, so now let's put it all back together and see if anything has changed. like maybe it'll work now. And it did. Everything working fine, battery light gone out and rev counter working. Cheapo voltage indicator showing the right sort of things happening - 14.2v. Now, I'm pretty sure the earth was fine before the battery config change, and the jump lead to back of the engine would/should have sorted that if so (excellent tip!). So am I just rationalising in thinking it must have been the alternator brushes? Alternator sits on the shelf for two years, works for a short time and then doesn't. I guess it would only take one of the brushes to have been stuck...

Ok - thanks. Would never have thought to look there...

Ahaaa - ok - I think. Got some more digging to do on this. Back with progress updates in a couple of days...

Ok - this video is at about my level. A different alternator to what we have, but I assume the principles are the same. You can skip along until 11:05 where the off-car tests start. I got 2.8 Ohms at the slip rings - the uppermost brush pushed back and the tip of a cable tie pushed in to break the circuit. It was all over the place before that. I'm not cleat what he's doing after that though.... I don't understand what the 421 is? Anybody?

No, just a regular start on the battery...

Jump lead from -ve battery to back of the engine block made no difference so out with the alternator. A label underneath says it's an LRB00283. For future guy having the same problem here's the connectors at the rear: And removing the black plastic cover: reveals the brushes. I can't detect any tendency to stick - all free moving and slide nicely. Is it time to call the menders?

Morning guys - thanks for the input. Thanks for that - they'll be going on my people to know about list. Will see if I can fix myself and then check them out if that doesn't work out. I forgot to mention I'm an alternator dummy. Now this sounds promising. I'll do the earth checks and if no joy get it out to check the brushes. There will be more questions in that case. I was a little shocked to find that it's actually 2 years since the alternator did any work - it's been sitting on the shelf all that time, so if sticky brushes are a thing that could be the prime suspect? That's right - that's why I'd assumed I'd somehow killed it... HIF44's?! Old friends of mine. But I thought you were a 14CUX guy! More questions on that front when I'm past a few other irritants. Like alternators. Remind me to ask you how you did your aircon sometime. Back at the workshop tomorrow, will update after that.....

Been making some headway recently with my V8 transplant into my 1987 110. Not fully sorted yet, but this is how it's looking so far: Ran the engine up yesterday for the first time in a little while, mostly all good but a number of things to get sorted - firstly a dead alternator. No readable markings except the re-manufactured label. When first fired up this time, I had a working rev counter and the battery light extinguished. I'm using a Discovery 1 wiring loom and instrument panel like so: So, on first starting it all looked good - great excitement - RPM settled to a reasonable tickover. Out and checking for fuel spraying about, flames, coolant leaks etc. Back inside a couple of minutes later to do the power steering thing and ensure hydraulics circulating. Imagine my disappointment to find no RPM working and the battery light on... I think it's an AMR4247 - the original VIN was VA738xxx, a 1997 Discovery 1. Here's the connections at the rear: I've used the Disco fuse boxes, the alternator goes first to the engine bay unit, then over the penguin to the bulkhead +ve terminal like so: Today I've been through all of the circuitry for continuity checks and everything is fine. Why would it do this to me?

My brain hurts....

Aah - maybe I made a problem for myself because I used non-standard brackets?

Well that took longer than it was supposed to. Long story... Here's a walk through of what I did so's you can tell me how I should have done it. First off, olive CRC4579L in place and nuts finger tight. Downpipes supported at the rear in the guesstimated correct position: Here's the centre section strapped up into place with the gasket between the mid and rear sections and tightened up: And the rear end sitting about right: I had to make up a length of box section to get hanger ESR3294 to sit correctly: Which bolts up like so: Yeah, some work still to do on that... With the front and rear points now fixed, attention turns to the front of the mid section. I chopped all the hangers off of the donor Disco exhaust, and made this: Cute ain't it? Problem being that I couldn't get a decent measurement to get it to hang correctly. This way I could wind the contraption up and down until it felt right. It looks much worse in this pic than in real life: That's my story and I'm sticking to it. I had to wrench the YRM 300 TdI middle hanger (designated 016B) around through about 90 deg to get it to sit about right. And just to show the lower end: OK, beautiful it's not, but it'll give me a pattern to work from next time around when I'm fitting a proper exhaust system and I'll rework the hanger at that point. Probably... That leaves the middle hanger. I made this: 3mm steel plate with one of the original Disco 1 hangers welded on. Yeah, I know. But it's not going to fall off. That was much easier to measure up, and fits like so: I bolted it on using the self-levelling unit fixings. Happy with that one. So I have a set of hangers that should do the job for the foreseeable, and means that when I come to fit a stainless system I should be able to go out and buy a standard TD5 one and it'll just go on without having to think about it. Well - maybe. On to the next outstanding problem...

Hi Paul - pretty sure I still have all those bits from the original donor Disco somewhere, but thanks for the offer. Reality suggests that (assuming I can get this thing through MoT soon....) I'll run it without cowling through the winter, and then work out my electric fan installation for next time the bodywork is all coming apart again...