KenyaDefense

Is there a solid/reputable/tested way to adjust/alter the switch to a more permanently usable solution?

Switch. Jumped brown blue while sidelights are on and voila! Lights work in every way, high, low, flash... Now for scouring for the part...

So i jumped the blue and red wires and still nothing. Inspected the switched and all is well.

intermittently started losing high beams occasionally a month or so ago. Drove to pick up something at dark the other night and main lights worked fine. When I fired up to head home no headlights at all (I had to drive home some few hundred km with just side and indicator lights, but totally normal in Kenya!). When I put on the indicator (side) lights, all is well and dash lights come on as normal. But when I go to headlights there is nothing and the dash lights go off like they are all turned off again. The flash continues to work, but high beams do not work in headlights mode. I took the headlight switch off and checked the connections and all seemed okay, no melted plastic or anything. Is there a way to test the switch? Is there another common suspect? Thanks in advance...

Sorry to inform, but all fuel is good. It is the clutch plate dying of all things! A friend came to give second opinion and knew immediately...

So the pin is pretty free now, but problem is not resolved. Still grossly underfueling, both on and off turbo. It shouldn't be the injectors because it wouldn't idle worth a ____ if even one was faulty. Leads me to believe it is fuel delivery issue from the FIP. Some are saying turbo hoses and IC, but would off turbo also be affected??

I question fuel delivery on and off boost. The boost diaphragm would only reasonably affect on-boost, right? But if the pin inside the FIP were slightly sticking, wouldn't that affect underfueling across the board?

Boost diaphragm meaning the diaphragm inside the FIP? I have triple checked it, and even had my teenage son with better eyesight than me have a long gander, nothing.

Got that already checked, thanks

Will go after clearances tomorrow when the sun comes up... Will try the stop solenoid test first.

I know this is an old thread, and sorry to bring it back from the dead, but been trying to resolve underfueling for a few days now. I've checked fuel through the lift pump, the filter, and into the FIP. When I popped open the FIP, the pin basically "pops" out when I pushed the throttle lever wide and then "pops" back in with a screwdriver. I assume this to be a potential problem if it is not moving with throttle correctly.

BTW, I checked all fuel lines today, no pinches or anything abnormal. Is there any servicing that can be done on the FIP prior to removal that might indicate low fuel passage?

Running without the plunger would indicate that perhaps the stop solenoid is defective? Is it common for the stop plunger to stick thereby restricting flow??

TDC, then checked that pin rests easily in plug/hole/whatever name is. I get no smoke except at startup. No smoke seems to indicate lack of fuel at combustion. I checked fuel flow to the filter, very good. Then checked flow at the inlet to the FIP, also very good. So I was thinking there must be a problem with delivery from FIP to injectors. What say ye?

Stop solenoid o-ring is good. Timing is good. As fuel flow is good to the FIP, should I pop off the injectors one at a time and test the spray pattern?