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83county88

Getting Comfortable
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About 83county88

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    cardiff CA
  1. Steve, Thanks for the referrals. I will give it a try. And yes, the low end of the spring does attach to the tab on the oil filter housing top bolt. I will let you know how I get on with this issue. I am currently at my vacation home in north Idaho; I will be home on 22 May and will again get back to working on my Series. Jim
  2. Steve, Interesting solution - two springs. That might make it easier to attach the springs at the ends and then attach the ends in the middle.....easier to get ones hands there. As far as the scale goes I will see if I can find one and measure the pull required to pull the cable to the run position and then work on finding the right springs or springs. That's a very clever idea. It's also interesting that there is nothing in the LR manuals about any of this. Sure would like to find an original spring from a dismantler. Found one in the UK and sent an email but got no reply. Ca
  3. Steve - This post is an update. First I received the spring from Craddock yesterday. It will not work as it is too wide, too short and too stiff. Don't think I could even get it on. It does look like the accelerator return spring but not like the spring that I found on my Series originally. See attached photo. I tried springs I bought at a local hardware store and they too were too wide. When the cable was pulled out the spring would hit the underside of the plate securing the pump and not allow the cable to pull the lever to a position to cause the cable at the ignition switch to c
  4. Steve, I ordered a new spring from Craddock. Might get to me by the end of the week.....paid extra for express shipping. Thanks for your advise. Jim
  5. I have compared the accelerator spring Steve said is also used for the fuel shut off with the spring that was on the fuel shutoff - they are not the same - that spring is much stiffer so it must be the incorrect spring. Now to find a source for the correct spring in the US.
  6. I have compared the accelerator spring Steve said is also used for the fuel shut off with the spring that was on the fuel shutoff - they are not the same - that spring is much stiffer so it must be the incorrect spring. Now to find a source for the correct spring in the US.
  7. Thank all. I have checked the movement of the inner cable and made sure that the cable housing is not kinked and has large curvy bend -- between the bulkhead and the key lock mechanism is should be good although I cannot inspect it. The spring that I had was a real beast and I suspect that it may not be the original spring but one that some previous owner put on. I have tried to find the part number of the original spring and a source in the US but no luck. I cannot find it in the parts manual nor can the guys at Rovers North. Would appreciate if anyone knows the part number and where
  8. Thank all. I have checked the movement of the inner cable and made sure that the cable housing is not kinked and has large curvy bend -- between the bulkhead and the key lock mechanism is should be good although I cannot inspect it. The spring that I had was a real beast and I suspect that it may not be the original spring but one that some previous owner put on. I have tried to find the part number of the original spring and a source in the US but no luck. I cannot find it in the parts manual nor can the guys at Rovers North. Would appreciate if anyone knows the part number and where
  9. Steve, Yes, galvanized frame! And lots of other new stuff. It is beautiful! And everything works. The seller did a lot of work which I am grateful for. It does have some other maintenance issues - new tires now on; parabolic springs, new shocks ordered; working on a complete rebuild of front brakes, then the rears; also had to replace the alternator pully as I found the original one was damaged ( cannot figure how that happened someone must have dropped it) and shredding the fan belt. Also waiting on a new headliner and the side panels - the seller had the door panels which are not
  10. Steve, Yes, galvanized frame! And lots of other new stuff. It is beautiful! And everything works. The seller did a lot of work which I am grateful for. It does have some other maintenance issues - new tires now on; parabolic springs, new shocks ordered; working on a complete rebuild of front brakes, then the rears; also had to replace the alternator pully as I found the original one was damaged ( cannot figure how that happened someone must have dropped it) and shredding the fan belt. Also waiting on a new headliner and the side panels - the seller had the door panels which are not
  11. Steve, I will post a couple of photos. But first back to the fuel cutoff cable issue. After I ran the new cable and hooked it to the lever at the fuel pump and before attaching the spring I check to see if the cable pulled smoothly....it did and without a lot of force required. Then I attached the spring.....what a difference.....the cable was difficult to pull and I worried about pulling the knob off the cable I just installed. Took the spring off and the cable pulled easily. So the cable pulls against the tension of the spring.....perhaps the spring is just too strong.....the fuel
  12. Thanks Steve. I did as you suggested. Used very thin bailing wire and dental floss. Worked well enough. Overlapped the cable and the bailing wire a couple of inches and then tightly wrapped the two with the dental floss to make sure it didn't come apart when pulling it thru. There was one tight spot pulling the cables thru......probably at the back of the ignition lock assembly. Thanks again. Jim I figured it out. So for anyone in the same situation here is what I did to install a new fuel cutoff cable.
  13. Steve, Thanks for your input. I have discovered that the screw you speak of is missing on my Series lock assembly. I have not tried to pull out the old cable assembly because I have not figured out how to route the new cable assembly without taking the speedo/instrument panel out ( disconnecting all the wires and the speedo cable is a bit intimidating) so I can get access to properly route the cable thru the bulkhead. Is there a way to do that without removing the instrument panel? I have considered removing the lower facia but that too looks like a lot of issue. Any recommendations
  14. I own (recent purchase) a 1983 Series 3 88. Last week the diesel stop pull knob broke off from the cable.....it was very difficult to pull to begin with. I have a new cable assembly but am having difficulty trying to figure out how to remove the old cable and then route the new cable. I have removed the steering column cowling and removed the screws holding the speedo/instrument panel and moved it out a little so I can see behind it....and the bundles of wire. I have tried to remove the lower dash but I cannot get it lose ( yes, I have removed all the visible screws). I also cannot find
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