GeorgetheLandy

So I went out for a drive in my 1963 Land Rover Series 2a (positive earth) and pulled up to a stop sign and balanced the clutch and accelerator to keep her steady on the hill and she cut out. I went to try and start her again and she was dead, not even any turning over or any sound whatsoever. I managed to let her roll back down the hill and find a safe place to rest but still, nothing happened when I started her. On my battery, I have a positive lead connected to the battery cradle and the negative lead goes to the ignition switch and then on to the starter motor. My immediate thought was the starter motor had stopped working but my friend said I should have another lead coming from the battery cradle to the engine block, I could not see one and wanted to see if this was true. I could not see anything in the manual stating there should be one or where it fits but thought I would ask all of you. He said to run a jumper from the positive terminal to the engine block and then to try starting her again. I did this and it did work, but I have never had this problem before nor can I see the lead connecting the positive feed to the engine block. I may buy a new started motor and fit that to see if that resolves the issue but wanted to ask for advice on here, any thoughts...SincerelyG

Yes, that was also part of my worry so I will have it in a secure and remote place. Also going to fit a switch to the ignition coil too.

Security and convenience when working on the engine. I recently took it out for a run and when I returned to where I parked it somebody had tried getting into it; the door had been opened. Also just want a convenient way to disconnect the battery when working on the car.

Okay, just decided after a little more research that it's best to install the kill switch on the positive lead, breaking the positive supply, so unless I hear otherwise that is how I will wire it. Also heard that fitting an on/off switch to the positive wire from the coil has a similar effect. Thoughts...

So I have had good reason to want to fit a kill switch to my 1963 Series IIA but before I do I wanted to double check I was travelling down the right path... I did some research and according to all the reviews the remote controlled kill switches are really not that reliable, in some instances leaving people stranded, though how that happens is a little beyond me but there you go. So I opted for a manual switch with removable key. They don't seem to be theft proof though as if anyone who is determined found it I am sure they can figure it out and buy a spare key, so really need to think about a clever placement unless anyone has any better suggestions on switches this seems to be the most reliable. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1465 The question I have is, is it okay to use the positive lead as the main line into the kill switch or does it have to be the negative lead on my car due to it being a positive earth? I am not an electrician and know only very basic wiring skills, so just want to make sure that A. This is a good switch to use and B. I am okay using the positive lead as the lead to disconnect? Thanks in advance for the responses and advice. G

Thanks, yes, I tried to make it a gentle respectful restoration. For as much as I have been able I have repaired and restored the original parts but in some cases the old parts were either lost or too far gone to save, so in cases like that I have tried to source new old stock or purchased rover replacement parts. I see it as a lifelong task and I think I will always be chasing rust on certain parts, namely the chassis and bulkhead. When I retire I may buy a new chassis as this one is solid but has had some bad welding done over the years. We’ll see on that though, for now he’s up and running and I can finally enjoy getting out with my fly rod and camping gear and enjoying it.

Thanks, I’ll try to put a more formal post together later.

Thanks…!

Thanks, still need to fit new shocks, springs and bearings in the hubs as well as replace a few leaky gaskets but he’s a keeper.

Rovers North, they fit really well. Centred the wheel when it was jacked up to keep it off the FWH and the tightened the nuts and they finished centring the wheels. Job done and they only cost $24’ish for the full set: https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/plc480_lug_nut_1_1_16_series_iia

Thanks, will do

Okay, I will write a more formal post on the project if people want me to but here is a quick before and after shot. The dilemma I faced was when I first received the George the bulkhead was in really bad shape and needed addressing immediately, lots of repair as did parts of the chassis too, so I lost a lot of the original paint but did manage to find a place to match the OP and I resprayed the parts that needed it to match in and hopefully gently wear back to match the rest. I tried uploading more but seems we're limited to 29 so may have to make a montage and post as one or two jpg's. The shots here show a before and after as well as the rebuild of the wiper motors and windscreen wiper mounts that I electroplated myself in nickel. I rebuilt the motors and got them up and running again. The passenger door was badly damaged on the trip down to Cape Horn Argentina by the previous owner so I had to replace that. I tried saving the top section but it was too far gone to be of any use so had to invest in a new top section. Re-galvanised the windscreen frame bolts too, these were a fun project and learning to electroplate was fun. I restored the windscreen frame and refitted the original glass with new seals, cleaning all of the rust off that as well as the bulkhead, which had some bad spots that needed patching, welding, grinding and finishing. That was a barsteward of a job! Removed the entire seat box section, serviced the gearbox and transfer case and cleaned off all the crud and carp from the gear box bell housing. Cleaned all the chassis and had new outriggers as well as the two front horns and some pieces at the rear too. Then ground all the joints level, smooth, and finished, acid etched, undercoated and finished with Chassis paint. Removed the ridiculous hand winch and replace with original Fairey Capstan Winch. Restored the front apron and restored all the original lights, removing all the rust from the internal buckets and priming and sealing. Removed all the unnecessary metal plate from the front bumper and coated in black rubberised bumper paint. Restored all the instruments on the dash panel and cleaned; lubricated and removed all dirt from speedometer and other gauges. Rebuilt the Tex Magna indicator system and restored the steering wheel and horn too, included the low tone horn and horn switch. Relocated the dimmer switch from floor to dash panel and welded shut the hole and well it used to sit in repairing all the rust in that section too. Repaired all the air vents and re-galvanised the levers at home in a fish tank with a zinc bar, power supply and a lot of reading. Sourced the original sun visors and fitted them and re-etched the gear stick numerals and sanded, acid etched, primed and painted all the floor panels, seat box and seat box panels. Sealed and insulated the under seat compartment too, making it a safe dry storage space. Restored the entire steering system, fitted new ball joints and realigned the wheels and adjusted the play. Sourced an original engine bay tool box which still needs fitting and I still have to fit the Smith Heater Matrix at some point. Though have a choice here as I have the round type, the square box type and also the Kodiak type too, though the last two need restoring so weighing up which will be best to fit. So far the small round Smiths is winning but need to do more research before I commit, so may have some heated to part with once I have made my choice. Also found a set of the original rear reflectors which I fitted and put in place. Have an original sooty foot pump that will sit in the rear along with the original tool roll too, still in its original cloth wrap. Completely overhauled the air cleaner cooler system, completely restored the radiator sealing any leaking with brass brazing rods and priming and painting in high temperature enamel paint. New HT leads, distributor cap and coil system. New original voltage regulator as the old one was toasted and the brass had corroded in parts. Restored the battery cradle and all the chassis in the engine bay area too. Changed all fluids for now but still need to replace all the gaskets and seals on the engine at some point. I have new exhaust to fit along with a new outlet manifold as the old one is really corroded (not looking forward to trying to remove that. Need to clean the oil sump, respray and replace gasket there. Need to replace springs and shocks and finally need to replace bearing and oil seals on the hubs and swivel joints. 4AE1AB68-B6FB-481C-8107-D9D382D7C989.heic

Just a quick follow up on the studs and Wolf Wheels. I ordered the more shallow wheel nuts (original Land Rover Part) and they fit perfectly on the original studs when placed on the studs with the chamfered end facing in, seems like the chamfer actually helps seat the wheel in the correct position taking any wear off the hubs. I do not have to replace some of the original studs as the previous owner must have simply screwed them in with and used lock-tite as the studs popped out in one event and may have damaged the thread. When the weather warms up here a little more I will take off all the hubs, replace all the bearings, seals, check all the studs are correctly installed and hopefully that should take care of business there. This is one of the last jobs to do so George is nearly ready for a mini adventure somewhere soon. Plan on taking my photography gear and such and getting lost for a week or two somewhere nice. On another positive note, I did finish installing my new Fairey Capstan winch, after waiting for some parts that never made it the first time around. Still need to find a good rope as the first rope I bought was advertised as manilla but actually turned out to be the synthetic version called Pro Manilla, so that was no good for what I wanted and was donated. Still hopefully a new manilla rope should be on its way soon from LR Bits and I should be in business. Roof rack is installed and I am about to do some research into solar panel systems and roof rack tents, so any links or advice very welcome. Will keep you posted on the journey and thanks to all for the advice along the way. G

Thanks to all for the great comments. I have a couple of options to try for now and if I don’t feel happy with them I will buy an extended set of studs or perhaps even turn some grade 8 BSF stock down to size and created the flared end so I can make a custom set. It most likely won’t be the cheapest alternative but at least I will have the wheels I want on my Landy. Once I figure out the best alternative I will post an end result and share any feedback with you. I live over here in the US now and to be honest am not certain of the laws on nuts, studs and wheels, especially given it’s a 1963 vehicle but I will find a quality solution. Really appreciate all the feedback and help and even some of the opinions, I’ll keep you posted. G

I live in the States now, having moved from England. Will take a look at the Britpart option so thanks for that! Also just found a set of Land Rover wheel nuts that have a more narrow collar that may fit through the hole in the Wolf Rims and provide a more secure fit with standard studs. Also have a set of LR flat nuts too, so if all else fails I will use them. Thanks for the advice. G

Yes, I have been told it’s fine as is but I’d feel more comfortable knowing the studs are securely locked into the hub and the additional length is there for the nuts to sit more securely. It’s good to push boundaries and challenge things a little but sometimes can be a hard path to tread when there are so many willing to take the traditional path. Thanks for the advice and I think I’ll save up for the longer studs or simply try to make some

Thanks, will take a look! G

Thanks, yes I have seen the specialised studs on Rovers North and may have to submit to that, but for almost $450 for a set of 20 I felt it was worth at least asking for advice on where I might find a set. I may see if I can find some Grade 8 BSF 9/16 threaded rod and turn some myself on my lathe. Just thought I’d ask around before I went down any one particular path. Thanks for the helpful feedback. G

Well, I’m pleased you have a strong opinion and thank you very much for sharing. I was rather hoping for an answer to my question and less commentary on personal choice and preference. I am very aware of all that you have pointed out and it’s always good to have such an authority reaffirm that, however I’ll have to pass on you opinion and remind you of what my Dad always said, opinions are like assholes, everyone has one. Disappointedly G

Hello all, so I recently fitted some Michelin XZLs to a new set of Land Rover Wolf Wheels. I then went to fit them on my 1963 Land Rover Seriesabm IIA and notices the studs were not long enough; there was not enough length to allow the nuts to thread on all the way. I then did some research and realised quickly I’d need some longer studs, but struggled to find any. I did after a lot of looking find some on Rovers North but they wanted $119 for five and I’d need 20 @ $476. It’s at that point I thought I’d reach out and see if anyone has had the same problem and if they have a cheaper retailer/supplier. I believe the nuts are 9/16 in diameter and are about 1.5 inches in length, so I am looking for the extended versions to be about 2 inches. Any thoughts or links?

Almost finished the restoration on George. He still needs a little welding on the chassis and I still have to fit the new shocks, springs and brakes but all minor work compared to the journey my sons and me have been on. Just for fun, I thought I’d work a little Photoshop magic and make a poster of the almost finished Landy… Just thought I’d share and say thanks for all the support along the way. G

Well after two days of soaking in penetrating oil and setting the gear to 3rd, the use of a ‘kin large 42mm ring spanner, some colourful choice words uttered frequently (which Inthink may have either offended or educated our neighbours) and a lot of bloody knuckles and elbow grease the bigger came off. Thanks to all for the multiple streams of advice, here is a summary of what worked for me: 1. Spray liberally for two days with penetrating oil. 2. Let it soak longer than you think and it says on the can. 3. After soaking for two days, heat with a blow torch for 5-10 minutes and then immediately hit the side of the nut on the dog clutch three or four times. 4. Put the car in 3rd gear. 5. Using a 42mm ring spanner crank in a anti-clockwise direction until loose. half of the battle was knowing which direction but got there in the end. This was for my 1964 Land Rover Series IIA 109 Petrol Engine. Thank you all so much, I’m sure an impact driver would have been better but I could not seem to find one that would fit the space given my winch was installed and I did not have a large 10 inch 3/4 extension socket. Off for a beer now.

I have started the restoration, stripped it down last weekend and will clean thoroughly before replacing the valves and diaphragm etc. thanks Gary

Thanks, will try again at the weekend. I have tried numerous things and the bloody thing does not want to budge. I have bent back the lock washer on the nut , not the pulley. I have soaked in penetrating oil for over a day now. I cleaned and blow torched then tried. Even tried the engine impact method of removing the coil lead and wedging a spanner on the nut, then starting it. Nothing is budging this bugger. May just admit defeat and take it to a garage and see if they can get an impact driver in the space.

So just a little more information: I’m trying to removed the dog clutch from the pulley on the engine crank shaft. When I attempt to undo the nut the engine turns and I cannot get purchase on the nut and loosen it. I don’t have an impact driver and even if I did I’m not sure I’d get one in there. It’s a 42 mum nut and I simply am looking for advice on how to safely lick the shaft. Please see pictures of the dog clutch I need to remove. any advice welcome thanks G 66898753690__D572E97A-4104-4AE3-90E0-51AF0AEFC753.MOV