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  1. Bit unfortunate for those whose livelihoods depend on mentoring post 1997 licence holders for their trailer test.
  2. No plugs on the crated engine to prevent dirt ingress? The engine doesn't appear to be a 5 main bearing unit, which I'm certain it should be for a 1981 model.
  3. Will the baking soda/vinegar solution work here like it does with copper wires?
  4. That's very helpful guys, thanks Will also; my 300 is quite a late model - that could explain it.
  5. I'll soon want to install a new ported cylinder head and was set on ordering a 3 hole gasket as that's what I thought my 90 had, but went out to double check and saw it was a no hole gasket. Most seem to imply that 3 holes is thick enough if in doubt, although I will certainly measure the protrusion. To reduce down time I could always order two gaskets, and never bother to return the unused one and add it to the dusty heap of unused gaskets and fasteners and bits of junk. 😙 Engine is at 102k miles. Had it done a stratospheric mileage, I could understand that the block etc could have had some work done necessitating the thicker gasket.
  6. Were the 'no hole' head gaskets ever factory fitment by Land Rover? If not, why are they an option, and why would a mechanic use one, if following the simple approach of using the same type as that which was removed. Surely anyone replacing a HG on a TDI should know that skimming the head is irrelevant for HG thickness?
  7. If you are going to go through the effort of a V8 conversion, I think you should aim for the most displacement you can find. When the 200Tdi was introduced I believe LR didn't offer v8 powered Defenders to the home/GB market. Perhaps to protect Discovery 1 sales, or because the 200Tdi was such a big leap up from the previous diesel offerings. Btw I've heard from RPI engineering that they haven't yet been able to achieve a good enough tune with a weber/Edelbrock 500 on a 3.5.
  8. Red and a LR 'Special Vehicles' build could have been fire/water rescue service. Perhaps under a military branch.
  9. The local engineering/machine shops I've contacted don't seem too interested in top hating a rover block.🤔 I'd rather use someone like ACR/Turners/V8 developments/John Eales anyway, but being on the other side of the Irish Sea, I'm now currently just not willing to get ripped off with delivery costs for works on an engine I haven't even used yet. So I'm hoping that this could still miraculously end up not being a cracked block; as mentioned I did like bowie/elbekko's suggestion that it could be oil/ or a problematic injector. After all, it seems to be a warranty replacement block/engine and the odometer reading from the vehicle of 113k will be more than the engine's done, surely it may have been assembled with a bit more thought in order to help prevent the issues which negated its fitting 🤣? The bottom of the head-bolt hole next to where smallfry suggested the 'crack' could be is a bit dirty, couldn't be that there could be a crack there, coolant getting in, working up the threads by capillary action and seeping under the gasket where the heavy varnishing is, and into the cylinder? The close up photo of the possible crack also shows a little ding and scores, but there are plenty of those all over the block surface. I'd probably reassemble with studs, rather than head bolts, as I've read that torquing the stretch bolts could also put huge strain on the block, causing cracks. The valves/springs/seals all look to be in similar condition, what should cause the ones pictured from cylinder 5 to be like this? Hopefully not the effects of steam? 😬 Also, the cam bearings haven't moved, have they? Thanks
  10. Long may it continue? @western Referring back to the OP, I'll add that the exhaust valve head serving cylinder 5 was black in appearance unlike the other 7 exhaust valves which have the correct/normal light brown carbon appearance. It is also pretty hard to scrap clean (as well as the inlet valve) unlike the other 14 valves where the carbon could be easily removed with a slot head screwdriver. The cylinder 5 exhaust port in the head also has an oily/wet residue whereas the others are all 'dry' looking. Wonder how this relates to the possibility of water getting in to cylinder 5? Also another finding... When cleaning the pistons, no. 7 piston cleaned up pretty quickly whereas the others (excluding the already clean no. 5, obviously) took much more effort to remove the carbon.
  11. Thanks FF, but too far. Maybe your blog will suffice 😁 I wouldn't consider a Td5 because I don't particularly want to change to another Defender. I've put a lot of work into mine. I wouldn't convert one in either because it would be sacrilege to throw out a 300Tdi when there are plenty of good Td5 vehicles always coming up for sale.
  12. 205r16 tyres. I would opt to use the full megasquirt MS2 kit as it seems to be the most 'plug and play' I've found, and I have some hope that off the bat it'd afford the engine a suitable state of tune, as I'd need to bed in the camshaft for 20 mins on the first start, wouldn't I! 😄 😕 The Defender is a second car yet it hugely earns its keep. It's not the familiar case where someone has chosen a 90/110 as their only vehicle and can't come to terms with the lack of performance compared to their previous 'normal' car. Therefore, it only covers a few thousand miles per year, so, the running costs shouldn't really come into the equation. I'll accept that there will be a noticeable power increase over a well tweaked 300Tdi (I'm not saying that the alterations I might to do mine would get as far as being considered 'well tweaked'), perhaps the best difference would be not the max. attainable speed, but I presume the smoother rate of acceleration and less of a tendency to get 'stuck' at a certain speed (without giving it a further jab of the throttle) on the way up to 70mph.
  13. After replacing the intercooler/turbo/inlet hoses and a very slight tweak about 10 degrees clockwise on the boost pin/diaphragm assembly, the 90 has more or less reclaimed the power I felt it had begun to lose over the last few years. In 4th, 50mph is as high as I'd let to get to, then in 5th it can boost from 55-70 without 'too much' bother, and well it should, as it's also a rag top. It doesn't feel too slouchy. I could then get a gas flowed head, uprated intercooler (and therefore adjust boost/fuelling a bit more) and a VGT turbo from allisport. Also a Roamerdrive, and spend money on perfecting the steering and suspension/bushings, and this would still be a few thousand less than the V8 conversion I've calculated would cost. No matter how much quicker the V8 is, cornering will still slow the Defender down. So I must ask, after reading practically every 'v8 vs Tdi/Td5' thread on every forum inadvertently twice over, really how much better will a refreshed/part rebuilt 4.6 be over the 300Tdi after it would've had this fettling? It's interesting to hear that some North American NAS Defender owners mention diesels as being 'cooler', talk about the grass being greener... I'm not adverse to getting the v8 top hatted/rebuilt and installed, just that it would be big shame if it doesn't offer the performance I'm thinking it might. With factory 300Tdi 90 ratios, and a 4.6, I'd hope I could smoothly (huge emphasis on 'smooth'!) pull away from junctions in 2nd and rev to a decent speed to avoid drivers behind from thinking I'm taking forever to get moving, which does seem to be an issue with the 300, until I get into 4th.
  14. Did you buy the engine in the original post's link, Kevin? Would certainly be a nice replacement for a 2.25 and not a world apart in appearance either.
  15. That's good to hear. Did you ever notice any difference in warm up times or bleeding?
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