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windrover

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Everything posted by windrover

  1. the good thing about engine mounts is that they are usually coated in oil...the mounts or nearby areas won't rust out. That said, a coat of cold galv would be a good idea
  2. after my r380 gearbox rebuild, it appears that there is a leak of gearbox fluid from between the output shaft and the seal...new collar and new seal. replaced the seal but it still leaks. the shaft appears to turn straight, no play in the bearing. interestingly it doesn't leak while it is turning, but only after it stops. any ideas? thx, Ken
  3. after some checking on vintage car sites I found that this is a flasher unit Lucas DB10, apparently used to enable brake lights to be used as rear indicators? how likely is it to be faulty if the left side indicators work perfectly?
  4. thanks for the replies Western. looks like it is a Lucas part...two numbers on the box, 33117 and 3284. the white cylinders, Pektron A75-297, are attached in line with the right turn, left turn and tail lights
  5. sorry should have been more specific...1986 v8 110. it is mounted behind the speedo panel and looks like some kind of voltage regulator, but not appearing on my schematics...does look factory though
  6. left indicators not working, almost sounds like a short but I haven't been able to trace it yet despite using an ohmeter to check for resistance...could you tell me...what is the silver box behind the instrument panel that the indicator wires (green-red) feed into? It doesn't show up on the electrical circuit schematic. the wires are in series with a white cylinder which I presume is a diode?
  7. my aging 110 has developed another quirk...when I switch on the headlights, the wipers come on once. is this a grounding problem with the headlight circuit? Is my wiper switch dying? where do I start? thx, Ken
  8. that's a good thought, I could mount a small electric fan in front of the intercooler, wouldn't interfere with the viscous fan.
  9. thanks for the replies...I need to do some more reading. because the 2.8l has a mechanical injection pump, unlike the td5, I am not sure how the water injection is timed.
  10. my fuel supply is off the sedimenter that is mounted near the fuel tank. there are two blanking plugs and I put a port off one of them. easy and doesn't splice any fuel lines.
  11. I was considering increasing my air intercooler size on my 2.8l tgv. a client mentioned to look into water cooling instead of air cooling. so I am wondering if anyone has experience using a water/methanol cooling system on intake air as a way of improving fuel efficiency and increasing boost. snow performance is a link that I have looked at.
  12. Hello all, I am wanting to put a second alternator on my 2.8l international tgv diesel and am surprised to find that the 2.8l crankshaft pulley isn't a double pulley like the 300tdi pulley. Does anyone know if the 300tdi pulley will fit on the 2.8l? second unrelated question: my esbar d5 hydronic heater only produces 144F. new and seems to run okay, but never gets the coolant hot enough. thanks for any input.
  13. I've read through this thread with great interest although I confess I'm just barely comprehending. I have the Blue Sea (marine) ACR between my two batteries, and the aux battery never gets charged, whereas the starting battery is always fully charged up. The relay combines the batteries at 13.7 volts and disconnects them at 12.35 volts. 85amp Bosch alternator. The starting battery is wired as per factory 1993 110 (ie no ancillaries). Not sure where I should start with the diagnostics? thx, Ken
  14. Fixed for a penny...gloriously quiet. Shimming the belt tensioner with a penny has to be one of the more obscure repairs out there. thanks for your advice on that; cheapest, most satisfying repair job yet.
  15. just replaced the P gasget tonight since it was leaking coolant. (Had replaced the water pump last year). still chirping however, so I still plan on looking at the belt tensioner. appreciate the responses. Ken
  16. thanks all, will first try the belt tensioner, since I just put on a new belt
  17. the sound is definitely coming from the front of the engine at rest...power steering pump, water pump, alternator or belt tensioner. new belt doesn't make a difference any more so I think it likely is not a worn pulley. looks like i'll have to replace pieces bit by bit.
  18. Hello all, looking for some advice on how to identify where the loud, continuous chirping is coming from on my 300tdi...new belt, relatively new water pump, power steering pump, fairly recent alternator rebuild. what is the most common culprit? I tried listening through a hose to the various components but no luck decifering the origin. thx,Ken
  19. I would like to know the make of the indoor/outdoor temp guage as i am looking for something along those lines. thx, Ken
  20. yes, clock and central locking fitted...which is likely drawing the 30 mA. i followed a previous post on fitting central locking to a rear door latch and applied that to the front locking doors also. works well as i am in and out of my vehicle frequently during the day
  21. sorry, what i meant was the drain on the battery from all the circuits is now 30mA. thx, Ken
  22. somewhat embarrassed by this, but it may help someone from making the same mistake...the relays were put into a hella relay box. at the back of the box are plastic inserts with the relay pin numbers. the wires went to the correct plastic insert numbers, but i must have the wrong hella relays for the box because the relay pin numbers did not line up with the box plastic insert numbers. anyhow with wiring rearranged to the correct pins on the relays they are working properly, and the drain is only 30mA now which i guess is normal. thanks for the responses, and i hope i didn't waste too much of your time. Ken
  23. The present configuration is pin 30-constant power in, pin 86-switch power in, pin 85- grd, pin 87-power to electrical device. I measured the drain from the relay by measuring the current flowing through an ammeter attached to the neg. battery terminal when all of the fuses are removed and only one relay is in place. i see that i will have to be more specific in my approach...this isn't an innate ability for me thanks for all the suggestions, Ken
  24. i recently installed several hella relays which are drawing 150mA each when the circuit switch is off... the circuits seem to function normally, but the battery is drained down quickly. the relays show normally open as the relay switch position. any ideas?
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