Defendern00b

Great, thanks for clarification.

My alternator wasnt charging, so I just replaced the crusty old 45amp one on my defender 200tdi with a 70amp one from britpart (https://www.paddockspares.com/70amp-alternator-upgrade-kit-defender-200tdi.html) Nice and easy swap. Both alternators have a 3 pin plug and posts to choose from. Seeing as the 3 pin plug connector was there, I just used that. But I've got an beefier red cable in the upgrade kit with a spade connector each end. Can I just connect that straight from alternator B+ post to B+ terminal on starter motor whilst leaving the 3 pin plug in place? Pics help if possible. I'm fierce stupid and really shouldn't be allowed out unaccompanied...

The stub axle was badly ribbed from the loose bearing previously. New stub, seals and bearings this weekend have stopped the oil leak on the wheel. Quick final question. 2 bolts on the trailing shoe retainer snapped. Currently they're drilled out and held on with nuts and bolts but I'll change the shoes shortly and will replace back to standard. Can anyone advise on the part nos for those bolts please? They're holding part no 4. In the image attached. Thanks

Perfect. Thankyou. Exactly what I was looking for.

Hi folks, 1991 defender 90, 200tdi here. The rear wheel bearing hadn't been tightened sufficiently in the past, leading to a wobbly wheel and scoring the rear stub axle. I replaced the bearings as a temporary measure to keep rolling without a wobble, but need to change over the stub axle as it's wearing the seal and leaking a little oil on the outside face of the wheel. I've got a spare wheel bearing kit, but before I pull it apart, can anyone tell me if I need anything other than stub axle kit DA3359? It doesn't come with any internal seal or bearings which I thought would be the case. Thanks and appreciate your help. Mark

For those that need a little closure, the replacement loom and bypassing the isolator switch has solved the problem a treat. Now the old beast fires up straight away and has cured a problem with battery light staying on after startup that I never was able to shift before. The old loom and positive battery cable were toasted beyond recognition. Looked to be shorting on nearby metalwork too causing all my woes. Thanks all for the advice.

Thanks for the advice. New galvanised brackets arrived from YRM along with some new seat box panels to replace the corroded ones. Further questions re Prep and paint of these parts: 1) Galv brackets: what Prep work and products and suppliers do I need prior to fitting? Plan is to paint black to match the rest of the underside. 2) replacement Bare aluminium seat panel: same question. I assume prep differs from the brackets. 3) There's no colour code on my vin plate. Just blank. Is there somewhere I can find the colour so I can match the replacement seat panel in the cab? It's a dark green. 1991 defender 90. Maybe olive green from some googling? Thanks

Cheers Steve. I've ordered up the yrm galvanised replacements so will get to see the horrors the old bracket is hiding some time next week!

1991 defender 90 needs looks to have rusted through and sheared the passenger side bulkhead to chassis bracket, so Could I ask for some advice on this replacement please? Is it a simple unbolt and replace job? Is any additional support or bracing/Rachet straps needed when I get the old bracket off? Attached is the state of the current bracket. Not ideal. Pic taken laying under the passenger wheelarch.

Thanks for the responses here. I was thinking 45A because of the plug connector. Cheers

Can anyone tell me what ampage my alternator is from the pics alone? Came from a 91 200tdi. Standard 3 pin plug. Only identifiable part no's don't turn up any results on Google. They look like: BCH 06604 (stamped in centre) 21TR 37707A 0490 Cheers

Thanks. I'm pretty confident the isolator switch was the culprit. Since we got the defender it's always been lazy to start, despite a new battery, checking earth straps, confirming alternator is good etc. After the slow start, the battery light would come on at first, until giving it some revs. Then it went out and life was good. When I bypassed the isolator a few weeks back, it fired up immediately. Even on icy mornings. By then I suspect the loom damage was done and we were on borrowed time. Last week was likely a case of the knackered wires finally shorting out and getting crispier than a findus pancake. I've got a new loom ordered up and will change the starter solenoid and isolator too. Then we'll have a defender that fires up like it should at last!

Perfect. That looks more like it. I'll check tomorrow in the light and get the parts ordered up. Are there any tips to make life easier when re-routing the new loom? No doubt it'll need the flexibility of a gymnast to work it through all the tight little gaps. Appreciate the help all.

Thanks for the advice. Looks like this guy: https://www.autosparks.co.uk/land-rover-defender-90-110-engine-wiring-harness-3 Finally How can I tell the alternator ampage?

For sure. Battery will stay disconnected until solenoid and cables are replaced. I'm wondering if the cause was a battery isolator switch that the previous owner installed. Tracing the battery cables from starter, I can see they're melted all around isolator too. I actually bypassed the isolator a few weeks back because the beast was lazy to start. Immediately better once the switch was out of the circuit