bishbosh
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Posts posted by bishbosh
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Cold galvanizing isn't really galvanizing. It is just a zinc rich paint which if you use a good one will help but don't think you'll get anything like the protection and longevity of hot dipped galv.
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There are times to be thrifty and inventive and there are times to be safe. I think I would be paying for delivery, even if only to the field entrance. You can then satiate your inventive need by working out a method to move it across the field, but with a RR and a load of logs I am sure you'll come up with something!
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18 hours ago, landroversforever said:
I don’t see any issues with Stainless over Galv.
Nor me. But there aren't any real benefits either, unless you are expecting your great grandkids to be driving it! A galv bulkhead will outlive everything else on the truck so can't see a strong argument for spending what I expect will be a lot more on stainless. I'd also be interested in what grade stainless they use as stainless steels are not made equal (as you well know!) - you just have to look at my Amazon special "stainless" post box that is quietly rusting outside my house.....
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On 4/4/2024 at 10:07 AM, Simon_CSK said:
And sold by a guy in a straw hat with a straw in his mouth going ooo aarrr.
So you've met @Nonimouse then! 😛
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Wow. Not jealous at all! What a fantastic experience that must have been.
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My Verniers have dials. Super easy to read but they are perhaps a little more fragile than a simple Vernier scale. (touch wood, not broken one yet!)
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Fantastic piece of creative design and fabrication!
Ummm, has anyone assessed the gate or gatepost though.... you know.... your reputation does precede you and gravity takes no prisoners!
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Bite the bullet and buy a GAP IID tool. L322 ownership is soooo much easier with one! Not cheap, but they are exceptionally good.
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16 minutes ago, ianmayco68 said:
Did you have to ask permission to put the ATB in there ?
I think we all know the answer to that question Ian!🤣
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So tonight was meant to be a quick hour to connect the in tank pump lines up, pop the tank back in place and purge the system, hopefully followed by an engine start.
What actually happend was I fought the first (black) connector for 40 mins until I finally got it to seat, then spent the next 50 trying to get the blue one in only to completely muller one of the yellow o rings that should sit in the female half of the joint but for some reason had remained on the male part when I disassembled the connection.
So I now have a disabled car and have failed completely to find said o ring on the web. Does anyone know a part number or have an old assembly under a bench they could look at please?
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My 200TDi auto 90 with a 1.2 also struggled on hills so can understand the OP's problem. As others have said, changing a transfer case is not hard if you have a helper.
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Disclaimer - I am definitely not an auto electrician....
......but on my multimeter that is the continuity test position so would suggest there is a degree of resistance in that circuit? Perhaps? Maybeeeee? (see disclaimer!)
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The same rack that snaps off mounting bolts you mean? Hmmm....
That said, interesting read and refreshing for the (apparent) openness.
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I'm not sure 1,100Hp is enough for me, so I'm out.
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4 hours ago, Sigi_H said:
In another Forum a rally driver told me that he has killed some R380, but never a LT77
Just to make it more complicated 😉
Bu Ashcroft transmissions says they can no longer supply LT77's as key components are no longer available. Also, rally drivers kill everything, even themselves sometimes!
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56 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Left?
Left in a skip full of mud by the looks of it!
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@Nonimouse should be able to offer some advice or @JST often has preloved motors up for grabs...
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14 hours ago, hurbie said:
except a screwdriver , because that's a chissel ....
Not quite - chisel if you're holding one end, hammer if you're holding the other!
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Ended up drilling about a million spot welds out as you said @Snagger plus grinding off 4 proper rivets. Then bending the corner races out the way and it came out. No chance of it coming out in one piece with the body on and a complete chassis though. The cross member being temporarily absent has made this a relatively straightforward job. Pictures in my Allsort thread in Member's vehicles.
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With thanks to @PaulMc for excellent service, the new connector with seals and crimps is here, along with an excellent photographic guide to how to assemble all the bits in the right order.👍 Thanks Paul.
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I am sure you know this, but just in case, rotary phase converters in my experience are incredibly noisy and you won't want to be in the same room as one unless it is n a sound proofed enclosure.
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I did one like that - I think it was from Gigglepin but they don't seem to offer one these days. To be honest, once you have fitted a filler the faff factor is going to be pretty high and probably makes at least the DIY weld up one from Gwyn more attractive?
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Gwyn Lewis: HD Weld on Diff Pan – DIY, GL1102 – GwynLewis4x4.co.uk
or with the welding done:
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New Toy
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Oh. My. God.
I literally cannot wait for the next instalment of "Personal Injuries in the Garage with Jeff" 🤣