bishbosh

I had a block heater in my 92RRC when I lived in Montreal. I don't remember it as being spectacularly effective but I do remember wondering what that blue extension lead was doing following me down the road one day....

I can't believe nobody has suggested just loosening the nut and going for a drive.......

Waxoil? 😁 I'll get my coat....

The answer to your question is definitely no. The galvanizing process forms a metallurgical bond between the zinc and the steel which is why it is so effective. Having something in the way would prevent this. If you want it galvanised then get it blast cleaned first or ask your local galvanisers if they can prep it

I had similar symptoms on a VW golf many moons ago from a collapsing air intake hose. It only happened at speed with the engine trying to draw a lot of air and the hose had delaminated allowing it to constrict airflow. A bugger to spot because once stationary the hose looked normal!

Just drill a hole in the other end of the spanner and cable tie it to the flex. Of course, that is somewhat challenging with a cordless grinder - I have yet to find a solution to that one!

@paime as I said before, get yourself over to FullfatRR.com - loads of how to's on there and many more members who have managed to evolve past cart springs! 😛

How about using the best paint and the correct PPE?

aaah! Those were the days eh? Sigh.........

Well he's certainly being a dangly thing I suppose.... 😛

Please tell me you did that on purpose.....🙄

I'd change all fluids - diffs, gear and t-box, engine, brakes etc if you don't have evidence they have been done recently. Other than that, check for rust on the underside of the top tailgate bottom lip and the leading edge of the rear wheel arches. Other than that, just enjoy the ride as they are epic vehicles.

Slightly left field suggestion for the rear shocks - could you cross them over at the top? One in front of the brace and one behind? That way you could get them at much more of an angle and reduce their damping effect? Obviously you'd have to sort out clearances of the shock bodies but I am sure you have some shim steel lying about....

They're pretty beefy!

@steve200TDi My quoted figure is a mental calc of distance divided by litres x 4.5 to get mpg (ish). My consumption is pretty much always between 5 and 6 miles per litre. I have never concerned myself with exact fuel economy, I just want to be reassured that it is relatively consistent as a sudden change would indicate something potentially wrong. I have never trusted the MPG figures from any car's dash as in my experience they are always high. I suppose I could just use the dash figure now I've read what I've written! Would serve the same purpose!

Interesting to hear your trip computer is reasonably accurate @Ed Poore, the last time I checked mine (it was a good while ago) it was a good 10-15% optimistic. I shall have to test it again....

I have run my 4.4TDV8 L322 for 6 years and near enough 60k miles and my real MPG (not the porkies the car tells you) is typically in the 25-27MPG range. I don't drive it like I stole it but I I do make full use of the engine's power and make sure both turbos get a regular workout I think unless you get given a known good engine and have access to spectacularly competent auto electrician who will give lots of time for free then I can't see the maths (even man maths) working for a conversion on fuel economy grounds. 😕 Even then, you might need a power bulge in the bonnet to fit it in over the axle as has been said. The other thing to consider is what will you put behind it? The 8 speed ZF box is fantastic but not sure the P38 will have space for it? Having written all that, have you driven an L322? Very different beast to the L405. Replacing the P38 with an L322 might be your best bet ?

I am amazed nobody has asked how the fcuk did @Exmoor Beast get into those seats......... not even going to mention Senor @Nonimouse 😁🤣

My first check having cleared all faults would be the battery. They are incredibly sensitive to battery charge and it is very easy for them to throw all sorts of faults if the battery is anything other than A1. Perhaps try another known good battery? Can you log live values with your code reader? Might be worth seeing battery voltage when trying to start?

More like “most snorkels never see much use” 😆

Given how dangerous hard shoulders are I would be amazed if they did anything other than cart you off to a place of safety and then worry about charging.

I’m just going to throw this out there…… low traction side slope and locking diffs…..😳

I wouldn’t worry about snorkel height. You’re better off having it lower than the top of the vehicle to give it a chance of avoiding those pesky overhanging branches. I would probably allow 3 tube diameters for the cage and clearance to the door frame so say 150mm above the roof.

BZP without an overcoat of something is not worth the effort in my opinion. Just look at the BZP bolts in your garage. They’ve probably already started to corrode before seeing any real corrosive elements like road salt. If you can get them hot dipped it would be worth every penny I think.

Jim, I can do them. I’m in Bristol on Tuesday or travelling from High Wycombe to Cranleigh on Friday?