Mossberg

Thanks Western. The rear section of loom is new as I replaced it with a section of heavy duty trailer cable. I then put that in reinforced hose so I am hoping it wouldn't have rubbed through that - but still worth checking. That section goes to just under the front floor so there is only a small section of the original remaining, which makes it frustrating that that section could be compromised- unless it's my joint that is at fault.

I managed to split the connection and tested with a temporary wire and it worked, so the issue is somewhere in the loom to the back. I will fit a temporary bypass wire until the weather is better, then see if I can find where the fault is and make a suitable repair. Thanks for your help folks, I wouldn't have known where to start without your help. Whilst our vehicles are known for their faults, one thing you can't fault is the LR owning community!

Just getting back onto this job I I believe I have identified the connection with the rear indicator wire (green/red) that goes to the rear loom. I am just about to try to separate it, but before I do, could someone confirm it is just a "pull apart" connection and I don't have to press or lift any tabs that hold it together! The last thing I want is to damage it. It's the one in the centre of this image. Typically I am struggling getting my hands where I need them so don't want to be fighting against a clip that I don't know is there!

That is brilliant, thanks again for your help. I will try to get to those over the next couple of days. If the power is getting to that point I hope I can fit a temporary wire until I get to investigate further.

Thanks Peaklander, I appreciate your reply. I have ruled out the rear corner as this is the area I replaced (I replaced my rear crossmember and removed the rear section of the loom when I did this as it was showing its age). All the connections there are new and include a new earth point for that area (wired to the negative terminal). Am I right in assuming C287 is behind the dash? Looking at that photo I wonder if that is from a later year? Mine is a 1993 90 with a 300tdi fitted so I wonder if that has a more basic connection? Thanks for the reply, it really is appreciated.

My rear LH indicator has stopped working but the front and side repeater are ok. I assumed it was the light unit as the rear was caked in mud, so swapped that out as it was easy to do and only £5 so worth doing. Changing the unit has made no difference. I tried that unit on the RH side to prove it is working and it does. I have checked the wiring to the lamp with a meter and it's getting no volts. I have plugged a trailer board in and its the same, so assuming issue is before the joint there. I have fitted a new section of rear loom using trailer cable so there is a joint here between the old and new loom. However, before I start removing the protection to this joint to check it, I wonder if I could check this prior to the old section of loom as this will then reduce the area I need to check. So, the advice I am seeking is where would I check this? I presume it will be around the fuse box somewhere. If I can check that the relay and connection is OK then at least I can isolate the section of loom between as the fault area and possibly fit a temporary wire to the indicator to allow me time to find the fault. So knowing the correct relay and outputs would be great if you can help. As always, my thanks for any help and advice you can give. Mick. PS - I am really not good with electrics so any advice would need to be worded for a complete novice.

I derusted my replacement axle case using electrolysis in a 200ltr barrel. Worked a treat though it still takes work to get rid of all the cr*p ready for painting. Gets to some areas you wouldn't get a wire brush.

Whilst I wouldn't expect them to be your main oil leak, you may actually find oil coming from them which is worth identifying, especially on the timing case as you really don't want a contaminated timing belt. I changed the timing belt on mine soon after I got the truck as I didn't know the history of it and didn't want it snapping and the associated grief it would cause. Part of the process of changing the belt was replacing the seals around the crankshaft, though that had to be done twice as it didn't seat correctly the first time. Worth a watch. I believe the rear crank seal is an engine out job so I am dreading that one!! I am watching this with interest incase I can learn from others giving you advice on identifying oil leaks.

I think it would be worth you giving your engine a good clean with gunk or similar as it's difficult to identify specifically where the leak is from if there is lots of dirt and oil everywhere. When you know the engine is clean, watch for leaks starting to show themselves and post a photo on here and the knowledgeable folk can give you a better idea of what it is. My sump was leaking so took it off and replaced it. I refitted mine using blue hylomar sealant, though I think you can get gaskets for them. Cleaning the bottom of the engine before refitting was a pain as it needs to be clean but not scored or scratched so be careful when doing it. Also when refitting read the instructions for the sealant (if that's what you are using) as think you have to leave it to skin over before you fit the sump - but read the instructions as it's been a while since I dud mine. I also got myself some long bolts that allowed me to align the sump without it contacting the engine (obviously when the sump is fitted replace them with the correct ones 😉). And importantly remember it's sn alloy engine so don't over tighten the screws. I purchased a small torque wrench as I think these are right on the lower limit of my larger torque wrench. I am not good at judging torque, especially on smaller screws! As you will be draining the oil to do that job, don't forget to purchase a sump plug washer. I believe the 300tdi can be fitted with two different size sump plugs but again more knowledgeable folk can confirm this - I don't think these are expensive so I ordered one of each to be sure It's worth noting that I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, so please check any advice I give and understand that the first mechanicing I have done was when I purchased my defender just over three years ago! Mine is a 1993 90 with a 300tdi fitted (not the original engine) but it looks be in a different position to yours and mine has the R380 gearbox. My Defender is a "bitsa" as over the years it has had parts replaced with different ones, so you can't rely on a vin number to order parts. I still have lots of bits to do on mine, but that will be an ongoing process as it's a used truck, not a project.

https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/200tdi-300tdi-wading-plugs/

A couple of those are for wading plugs, so only fitted if going through deep water or mud. The images where you have circled a single hole. That is the bottom of the flywheel housing and on bottom of the timing case. They prevent oil build up in case of a leak but will also alow water in if its too deep. Easy enough to purchase off ebay or a parts supplier. Keep them in the vehicle in case of unexpected flooding. I don't know what the other pair are for. If you are intending to go wading then it's worth getting someone who knows what they are talking about to give you advice as there is more to it than just fitting the plugs.

Apparently some seals are susceptible to the OAT coolant. I didn't want to risk anything like that and stuck with what was specified for the engine.

I was in a similar dilemma when I did mine (I changed my water pump when I did my cambelt change, plus leaking rad). As I was doing that, and the vehicle was relatively new to me, I decided to do a flush and coolant change. I wanted to use the OAT coolant due to the extended lifespan compared to the ethylene glycol, but went the cautious route too.

Is it too cheeky to ask the price of your replacement unit? It would be interesting to see a comparison against othe refurb unit costs.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253786117787 Viscous coupling showing the nut (without the fan fitted).