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Mossberg

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Everything posted by Mossberg

  1. Thanks Western. The rear section of loom is new as I replaced it with a section of heavy duty trailer cable. I then put that in reinforced hose so I am hoping it wouldn't have rubbed through that - but still worth checking. That section goes to just under the front floor so there is only a small section of the original remaining, which makes it frustrating that that section could be compromised- unless it's my joint that is at fault.
  2. I managed to split the connection and tested with a temporary wire and it worked, so the issue is somewhere in the loom to the back. I will fit a temporary bypass wire until the weather is better, then see if I can find where the fault is and make a suitable repair. Thanks for your help folks, I wouldn't have known where to start without your help. Whilst our vehicles are known for their faults, one thing you can't fault is the LR owning community!
  3. Just getting back onto this job I I believe I have identified the connection with the rear indicator wire (green/red) that goes to the rear loom. I am just about to try to separate it, but before I do, could someone confirm it is just a "pull apart" connection and I don't have to press or lift any tabs that hold it together! The last thing I want is to damage it. It's the one in the centre of this image. Typically I am struggling getting my hands where I need them so don't want to be fighting against a clip that I don't know is there!
  4. That is brilliant, thanks again for your help. I will try to get to those over the next couple of days. If the power is getting to that point I hope I can fit a temporary wire until I get to investigate further.
  5. Thanks Peaklander, I appreciate your reply. I have ruled out the rear corner as this is the area I replaced (I replaced my rear crossmember and removed the rear section of the loom when I did this as it was showing its age). All the connections there are new and include a new earth point for that area (wired to the negative terminal). Am I right in assuming C287 is behind the dash? Looking at that photo I wonder if that is from a later year? Mine is a 1993 90 with a 300tdi fitted so I wonder if that has a more basic connection? Thanks for the reply, it really is appreciated.
  6. My rear LH indicator has stopped working but the front and side repeater are ok. I assumed it was the light unit as the rear was caked in mud, so swapped that out as it was easy to do and only £5 so worth doing. Changing the unit has made no difference. I tried that unit on the RH side to prove it is working and it does. I have checked the wiring to the lamp with a meter and it's getting no volts. I have plugged a trailer board in and its the same, so assuming issue is before the joint there. I have fitted a new section of rear loom using trailer cable so there is a joint here between the old and new loom. However, before I start removing the protection to this joint to check it, I wonder if I could check this prior to the old section of loom as this will then reduce the area I need to check. So, the advice I am seeking is where would I check this? I presume it will be around the fuse box somewhere. If I can check that the relay and connection is OK then at least I can isolate the section of loom between as the fault area and possibly fit a temporary wire to the indicator to allow me time to find the fault. So knowing the correct relay and outputs would be great if you can help. As always, my thanks for any help and advice you can give. Mick. PS - I am really not good with electrics so any advice would need to be worded for a complete novice.
  7. I derusted my replacement axle case using electrolysis in a 200ltr barrel. Worked a treat though it still takes work to get rid of all the cr*p ready for painting. Gets to some areas you wouldn't get a wire brush.
  8. Whilst I wouldn't expect them to be your main oil leak, you may actually find oil coming from them which is worth identifying, especially on the timing case as you really don't want a contaminated timing belt. I changed the timing belt on mine soon after I got the truck as I didn't know the history of it and didn't want it snapping and the associated grief it would cause. Part of the process of changing the belt was replacing the seals around the crankshaft, though that had to be done twice as it didn't seat correctly the first time. Worth a watch. I believe the rear crank seal is an engine out job so I am dreading that one!! I am watching this with interest incase I can learn from others giving you advice on identifying oil leaks.
  9. I think it would be worth you giving your engine a good clean with gunk or similar as it's difficult to identify specifically where the leak is from if there is lots of dirt and oil everywhere. When you know the engine is clean, watch for leaks starting to show themselves and post a photo on here and the knowledgeable folk can give you a better idea of what it is. My sump was leaking so took it off and replaced it. I refitted mine using blue hylomar sealant, though I think you can get gaskets for them. Cleaning the bottom of the engine before refitting was a pain as it needs to be clean but not scored or scratched so be careful when doing it. Also when refitting read the instructions for the sealant (if that's what you are using) as think you have to leave it to skin over before you fit the sump - but read the instructions as it's been a while since I dud mine. I also got myself some long bolts that allowed me to align the sump without it contacting the engine (obviously when the sump is fitted replace them with the correct ones 😉). And importantly remember it's sn alloy engine so don't over tighten the screws. I purchased a small torque wrench as I think these are right on the lower limit of my larger torque wrench. I am not good at judging torque, especially on smaller screws! As you will be draining the oil to do that job, don't forget to purchase a sump plug washer. I believe the 300tdi can be fitted with two different size sump plugs but again more knowledgeable folk can confirm this - I don't think these are expensive so I ordered one of each to be sure It's worth noting that I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, so please check any advice I give and understand that the first mechanicing I have done was when I purchased my defender just over three years ago! Mine is a 1993 90 with a 300tdi fitted (not the original engine) but it looks be in a different position to yours and mine has the R380 gearbox. My Defender is a "bitsa" as over the years it has had parts replaced with different ones, so you can't rely on a vin number to order parts. I still have lots of bits to do on mine, but that will be an ongoing process as it's a used truck, not a project.
  10. https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/200tdi-300tdi-wading-plugs/
  11. A couple of those are for wading plugs, so only fitted if going through deep water or mud. The images where you have circled a single hole. That is the bottom of the flywheel housing and on bottom of the timing case. They prevent oil build up in case of a leak but will also alow water in if its too deep. Easy enough to purchase off ebay or a parts supplier. Keep them in the vehicle in case of unexpected flooding. I don't know what the other pair are for. If you are intending to go wading then it's worth getting someone who knows what they are talking about to give you advice as there is more to it than just fitting the plugs.
  12. Apparently some seals are susceptible to the OAT coolant. I didn't want to risk anything like that and stuck with what was specified for the engine.
  13. I was in a similar dilemma when I did mine (I changed my water pump when I did my cambelt change, plus leaking rad). As I was doing that, and the vehicle was relatively new to me, I decided to do a flush and coolant change. I wanted to use the OAT coolant due to the extended lifespan compared to the ethylene glycol, but went the cautious route too.
  14. Is it too cheeky to ask the price of your replacement unit? It would be interesting to see a comparison against othe refurb unit costs.
  15. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253786117787 Viscous coupling showing the nut (without the fan fitted).
  16. The "nut" is on the back of the fan. There is a special spanner for it as it's quite awkward to get to, but I think I managed mine with a slim spanner (but it's been a while so not 100%). It's worth Googling 300tdi fan spanner to see its thickness and shape. I think you need to give the spanner a knock to release it, but make sure you are undoing it in the right direction. I haven't got a great deal of experience with this but hopefully someone will be along soon with more help. I find it odd that it's still fitted due to electric fan being there. I would keep it to one side just incase the electric fan gives up, but you will need a cowl for it to be efficient. Good luck with the task.
  17. Whilst I agree that a good welding helmet is required, I must say my lidl true colour one works for me. The critiscm I have for it is not the screen but the headband, which I find too flexible- when on your side under a land rover trying to contort into position, that sagging can be annoying. However, the large screen compensates most of the time as you don't necessarily have to look through the centre of the screen. Also, with an inspection lamp you have good vision before striking the ark.
  18. Try looking on the mig welding forum about welders. I would recommend a mig as they are easy to learn (if you put the effort in) and can be used on thin to heavier materials depending technique and machine. I couldn't tell you what machine as mine is an older unit so not comparable with modern machines. Do you really want to use air tools? From what I hear, people are moving to battery tools as they are more convenient as you don't need to fill your compressor and roll out an airline to do your job. Remember airlines are more of a pain than elecric extensions. Battery tools are so convenient and you can easily grab a tool to do a 5 minute job which will possibly take half an hour when filling the compressor and laying then retrieving air lines (that's if you are working on your drive like I do!). I have one of the cheap supermarket compressors and that was adequate for chassis treatment - in fact my brother used it to spray his MGB, but he struggled with that and should be applauded for his perseverance.
  19. Look at installing a low coolant alarm. Not really that expensive and relatively easy to do. I fitted the range rover cap type https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173477561583?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Mb6XBbaERje&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=EC2NqmK2QMW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It's easy to cook the 300tdi via coolant loss because of the high water pump position. Apparently your engine will be toast before your temperature gauge indicates a problem. Mine has saved me once already (sprung a leek on radiator).
  20. When I bought my Defender, it was because I believed the parts were so cheap (in relation to other manufacturers parts) that it's upkeep should attainable with limited funds. However, from learning how to maintain the vehicle from forums and youtube (selective reading and watching) it soon became apparent that cheapest isn't always the best option. When I got my Defender it was one of the cheapest available and as such some things were tired, including brakes and swivels. My thoughts were to do other work whilst doing the jobs, so bearings and seals were done. Using Timken bearings and Corteco seals tripled the price of using Britpart, but I felt it would be a better job. Whilst I avoid Britpart for critical parts, I also avoid "Land Rover " parts too due to the huge cost. For critical parts I look for branded which for serviceable parts there do seem to be decent suppliers. I have done timing belt, water pump and other parts doing this. However, when I replaced my brake calipers I used Britpart and they are working fine. I did however use branded pads as recommended by Mike at Britannica Restorations - I do find his reviews quite good as he obviously fits a lot of parts and with shipping to Canada the reliability of those parts is important.
  21. Personally I think filters and pads are one thing that will be available from quality manufacturers in the future, together with bearings and (mechanical) seals. I think many other things will suffer the britpart curse, especially things like window/door seals, electrical, and pressed/machined parts. I would hope that perhaps a supplier could potentially see the market for higher quality parts. Also it would only take a slight shift from britpart to actually work on their quality control. How many times do you get a part and think "why don't they just put the correct diameter hole in the right place"?
  22. Wow, that's not good on the rad plug - well not good on the clutch fork either! Not sure what that air filter goes on but I would guess at the moment I can't see it being very efficient.
  23. I presume with a stub axle the main parts to look for are where the bearing sits and the section the seal will contact. I think its difficult to gauge condition from a photo without having a new one in the same photo to compare to. This also goes for you comparing one to the other. I suppose the other thing to do is feel the surfaces as that can give you more honest feedback. Do you have a new bearing to slide on new and old to compare? Also can you feel any kind of a rough surface where the seal will contact? I reused a tatty stub axle on the front of my defender when I replaced the swivels. The important surfaces felt smooth and usable. I have only done about 3k miles on it since so can't really comment on how it's lasted,however I can say I wish I had changed it as I have given the axle a good overhaul and not changing this part is a bit of an irritation (I think about £25 at the time). When you consider the £100s spent on swivel housings, quality bearings and seals, brake calipers and new fixings, etc (I even ended up changing the axle case!), the cost was insignificant but would have given me greater peace of mind - though to be fair I didn't realise I was going to do the extent of work I ended up doing 😀
  24. Can I ask a novice question please - is power steering fluid a dedicated fluid or is it the same as ATF (automatic transmission fluid)? Sometimes I see people saying they are the same, but then see notes saying you can use ATF for a temporary fix if you run out of power steering fluid! If on a TDI defender, is there a specific fluid/oil type that covers this? I have had a quick look and it seems Dexron 2 and Dexron 3 are similar - but this us based on it being an automatic transmission fluid rather than a power steering fluid! However I then see there is also Dexron 6, which I believe is synthetic. So, which is the correct fluid for a tdi power steering?
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