Mediamab

Ow yeah my plan was to buy it all as one package. Ashcroft have confirmed they can provide everything needed (bar the tunnel) and are confident it should all fit nicely.

https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/r380-v8-bellhousing/

So my understanding is that the official v8 bellhousing should just slot in and not cause the issues you mention @smallfry Ashcroft sell that version and from what they’ve said, bar the tunnel needing to be r380 that’s the only position that moves? not keen on an auto - definitely want to stick with manual. Want for r380 is purely a little more refinement and far less throw, certainly no quick gear changes with it!

Also is it totally mental me thinking of doing the swap on the driveway? Ha. The engine will be out which I guess helps?!

This is brilliant @FridgeFreezer thank you!! had a look and seems there’s a couple of r380 tunnels on eBay. Not best condition but can work with them. Does something need doing to the join in the seat box? Yours looks like you extended it perhaps?

Thanks everyone. Definitely appreciate the Lt85 is super strong, I just don’t love the truck like movement and much preferred the r380 in my TD5. truck is a factory v8 went back over my emails - Winchester gears provide a the v8 bell housing - the link I shared was wrong. They just don’t have on their site as they buy from Ashcrofts. so sounds like really it’s just finding an r380 tunnel or @FridgeFreezer are you suggesting that may also not be needed?

Or is THIS what I need instead as does look different?

Link to product

Ah ok brilliant so really just the gear tunnel - hopefully can find a second hand one. Winchester gears recommended theyre short bell housing they have listed but do you mean I need a different bell housing? is there any impact on the shaft lengths?

Ah interesting. I did see something about the tunnel may be an issue as the stick sits 2inches further back and in my head I was thinking finding a r380 tunnel would fix that but maybe not if the seat box is also different… just keen to change as I hat how sloppy the LT85 is and looks like slick shift for it no longer exists to atleast help it along!

Hi! im looking to swap my LT85 for a rebuilt R380 from Winchester gears with the short bell housing. I just wandered if it’s just a direct swap or do other items need replacing? Just thinking gear tunnel and prop shafts potentially? Any advice really appreciated!

It’s connected directly to the main battery terminal connection so I guess worth giving it a good clean. Just seems weird it suddenly all stops for 5mins but then all comes back and is fine again!

Wil have a good dig today and see if any obvious issues. Is there a reason why a fault would cause the tracker, that is directly attached to the battery even get no voltage?

Hi guys this one is baffling me… 4 times today electrics have totally died, usually when stopping the engine. There is zero power, even to the clock. (Battery’s 13.2v) the strange thing is my tracker is directly connected to the battery and it reports voltage, when it opens the tracker alerts me it’s disconnected and reports less than 1v when it does reconnect and then jumped to 2v then 3v then back in action and so is the rest of the truck and can start again. Baffling me but maybe someone far smarter than me has an idea 😊

Ok put old dizzy back with the new plugs and leads and works a dream, so can only assume something failed but least it’s working again ha

Could it be the amplifier? Though struggling to find out how I’d test that?

is it a separate signal the green wire gets when starting then? Is that fused? Just seems strange suddenly cut out and now won’t start but was absolutely fine!

I assume if there’s voltage to coil with ignition on then there would also be voltage when cranking or could I be onto something there? (Still learning so appreciate if that’s a dumb question!)🤣

There is an earth point as well which it says isn’t a necessity. Didn’t have it connected when was working fine. Did run a lead from it just incase but made no difference

Am using the kit below https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110798204309?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=10DtSqUnR7-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=9FsqrjJWROa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

And just to confirm I have the red wire from the dizzy going to positive on coil. White wire going to negative. Green wire going to positive from ignition.

So… finally got around to replacing ignition system last week was running beautifully and in perfect time. Engine suddenly cut out today (luckily on driveway) and now won’t start as no spark… have checked coil is getting power all fine and there’s power going through the lead into the dizzy. Rotor arm is moving as engine cranks over. Have triple checked all wiring (replaced most) and am 100% all wires are where they should be. swapped back to the old coil and made no difference either. any ideas as to what could be happening?!

So have made decision (maybe longer term I’ll go bigger and bolder ha) but for now gonna do a rebuild of the engine with some new pistons to up compression and new cam etc and get it to top condition. Was just doing it’s finally run to move into a sensible place to start taking the engine out… As you guys mentioned I bought an infra red temp gauge and it does seem to be getting a bit too hot. If I read temp of the cylinder head the right side is reading 15-20degrees higher, it’s also the side I’m pretty sure the tapping is from. Would that temperature indicate a head gasket failure? Struggling to think of other reason for such a variance and I checked it many times ha! side note - will start a build thread soon rather than lots of new topics as I am sure I’ll be looking for help

@FridgeFreezer yeah definitely if I do a swap I plan to retain engine/gearbox for sure. Ive noticed the 4.0 is far easier to get hold of than a 3.9. The one I shared the other day they'll do a nice amount lower and thats the price of stage 1 heads on my 3.5 and value difference is huge between those 2!!

Bar the the galv chassis and a bit of a dodgy respray (removal of CSW stickers and added chequer plate) it is pretty much standard but has obviously already move somewhat away from it. Which is why im fighting with just improving / restoring than just starting from scratch, even though some steps already taken beyond original by others...