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Mediamab

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Posts posted by Mediamab

  1. 15 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    If you look at my photos those are the "normal" V8 R380 bellhousing which is about a foot deep, overall it should come out near as makes no difference to the length of your existing gearbox.

    But really I would not bother trying to buy gearboxes/bellhousings separately as you are liable to end up with mis-matched parts - the input shaft needs to be the right length for the bellhousing, the input shaft diameter & splines & crank spigot all need to match, the tail housing needs to fit the Defender shift linkage... I would just ask Ashcrofts (or whoever) to supply the unit complete (including the shift mechanism!) so you know it's all correct and can phone someone up and shout at them if it's not.

     

    Ow yeah my plan was to buy it all as one package. Ashcroft have confirmed they can provide everything needed (bar the tunnel) and are confident it should all fit nicely.

  2. So my understanding is that the official v8 bellhousing should just slot in and not cause the issues you mention @smallfry Ashcroft sell that version and from what they’ve said, bar the tunnel needing to be r380 that’s the only position that moves?

    not keen on an auto - definitely want to stick with manual. Want for r380 is purely a little more refinement and far less throw, certainly no quick gear changes with it!

  3. Thanks everyone. Definitely appreciate the Lt85 is super strong, I just don’t love the truck like movement and much preferred the r380 in my TD5.

    truck is a factory v8 :) went back over my emails - Winchester gears provide a the v8 bell housing - the link I shared was wrong. They just don’t have on their site as they buy from Ashcrofts.

    so sounds like really it’s just finding an r380 tunnel or @FridgeFreezer are you suggesting that may also not be needed?

  4. 5 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    My 127 had this exact swap, it's not a stubby bellhousing though it's a regular R380 V8 one, you'll need a new transmission tunnel which can be expensive unless you can find a good used one.

    2024-07-23_19-51-14.jpg

    This is the best photo I have to hand of it in situ, I believe the previous owner sourced it from Ashcroft Transmissions.

    I can take more photos / measure stuff if you need. There may be some in my thread in the members vehicles section too.

    Ah ok brilliant so really just the gear tunnel - hopefully can find a second hand one.

     

    Winchester gears recommended theyre short bell housing they have listed but do you mean I need a different bell housing?

     

    is there any impact on the shaft lengths?

     

  5. Ah interesting. I did see something about the tunnel may be an issue as the stick sits 2inches further back and in my head I was thinking finding a r380 tunnel would fix that but maybe not if the seat box is also different… just keen to change as I hat how sloppy the LT85 is and looks like slick shift for it no longer exists to atleast help it along!

  6. 1 minute ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    If the tracker sees 0v then there's 0v where the tracker is attached - could be a dodgy battery connector.

    It’s connected directly to the main battery terminal connection so I guess worth giving it a good clean. Just seems weird it suddenly all stops for 5mins but then all comes back and is fine again!

  7. Hi guys this one is baffling me… 4 times today electrics have totally died, usually when stopping the engine. There is zero power, even to the clock. (Battery’s 13.2v) the strange thing is my tracker is directly connected to the battery and it reports voltage, when it opens the tracker alerts me it’s disconnected and reports less than 1v when it does reconnect and then jumped to 2v then 3v then back in action and so is the rest of the truck and can start again. Baffling me but maybe someone far smarter than me has an idea 😊

  8. 6 minutes ago, mad_pete said:

    Isn’t there another wire coming of the dizzy for something ? My connector on there perished and I lost power because of it but it was a while ago. 

    There is an earth point as well which it says isn’t a necessity. Didn’t have it connected when was working fine. Did run a lead from it just incase but made no difference 

  9. So… finally got around to replacing ignition system last week was running beautifully and in perfect time. Engine suddenly cut out today (luckily on driveway) and now won’t start as no spark…

    have checked coil is getting power all fine and there’s power going through the lead into the dizzy. Rotor arm is moving as engine cranks over. Have triple checked all wiring (replaced most) and am 100% all wires are where they should be.

    swapped back to the old coil and made no difference either.

    any ideas as to what could be happening?!

  10. So have made decision (maybe longer term I’ll go bigger and bolder ha) but for now gonna do a rebuild of the engine with some new pistons to up compression and new cam etc and get it to top condition. Was just doing it’s finally run to move into a sensible place to start taking the engine out…

    As you guys mentioned I bought an infra red temp gauge and it does seem to be getting a bit too hot. If I read temp of the cylinder head the right side is reading 15-20degrees higher, it’s also the side I’m pretty sure the tapping is from. Would that temperature indicate a head gasket failure? Struggling to think of other reason for such a variance and I checked it many times ha!

    side note - will start a build thread soon rather than lots of new topics as I am sure I’ll be looking for help :)

     

  11. Bar the the galv chassis and a bit of a dodgy respray (removal of CSW stickers and added chequer plate) it is pretty much standard but has obviously already move somewhat away from it. Which is why im fighting with just improving / restoring than just starting from scratch, even though some steps already taken beyond original by others...

    IMG_0236.JPG.324bbc26c531002c26fca81fccbf4ef5.JPG

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